As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in AdvertisingThroughout the twentieth century the ready-to-wear industry, fashion journalism, and mass-media advertising fueled one another’s success by identifying an ever-widening consumer class and fanning the desire to be fashionable. Through more than six hundred fashion ads that appeared in Vogue from the magazine’s debut in 1893 through the next ten decades, Hill documents not only this symbiosis but also an evolution in American fashion, society, and culture.In rich progression, the images document metamorphoses: from alabaster Victorian homemaker to painted flapper in just a generation, from conformist fifties mom to miniskirt-clad iconoclast only a decade later, from power-suited yuppie of the eighties to the techno self-stylist of the new millennium. In this long view of interactions that shaped much, much more than the fashion, Hill offers a comprehensive examination and resource for students and professionals in fashion and business history, popular culture, advertising, marketing, and women’s studies. |
Contents
IN THE BEGINNING | 1 |
American Womens Magazines | 2 |
Fashion Advertising | 4 |
Then Came Vogue | 6 |
Conde Nast | 10 |
VICTORIA THROUGH WORLD WAR I | 18 |
The Interlude that Was Edwardianism 19001908 | 19 |
The Gibson Girl and American Fashions | 22 |
Fifties Themes and Variations | 83 |
YOUTHQUAKE IN THE SIXTIES AND SCHIZOPHRENIA IN THE SEVENTIES | 91 |
The Beige Years | 93 |
The Youth Explosion of the Midsixties | 96 |
Counterculture and the Late Sixties | 98 |
The Me Decade Begins | 105 |
From Ennui to the Search for Novelty | 113 |
THE SYBARITIC EIGHTIES AND THE FIN DE SIECLE | 118 |
Hemlines and Hobble Skirts | 25 |
World War I | 27 |
HIGHS OF THE TWENTIES AND LOWS OF THE THIRTIES | 34 |
Battle of the Hemline | 36 |
Seventh Avenue | 39 |
Seen in the Shops | 41 |
Womens Sports and Sports Clothes | 42 |
Expo 25 and Art Deco | 44 |
Hard Times and Soft Curves | 48 |
A New Deal New Times and New Looks | 51 |
West Coast Influences | 53 |
American Designers | 56 |
Celebration and Timult in 1939 | 61 |
WORLD WAR II THROUGH THE FASHION CONSCIOUS FIFTIES | 64 |
For the First Time on Their Own | 66 |
The War Years 19421945 | 70 |
After the War a New Look | 74 |
Segue to the FashionConscious Fifties | 77 |
The Second Half of the Century Begins | 78 |
Pluralism and Witticism | 120 |
Gimmicks and Exaggerations of the Mideighties | 124 |
Revivalisms and the New Ideal Body | 127 |
The Democracy of Fashion in the 1990s | 132 |
Grunge Cyberstyle and Menswear | 136 |
Coming Full Circle | 139 |
THE BARE ESSENTIALS LINGERIE AND S WIMWE AR | 143 |
Corsetry | 144 |
From the Sbend Corset to the New Millennium Bustier | 145 |
Bust Supporters to Wonderbras | 151 |
Long Johns to Panty Thongs | 153 |
Swimwear | 158 |
ACCESSORIES HATS SHOES AND JEWELRY | 167 |
Shoes | 178 |
Jewelry | 190 |
Notes | 203 |
213 | |
221 | |
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Common terms and phrases
accessories advertising American designers American fashion American ready-to-wear American women apparel April 15 art deco Beach beauty became began Bergdorf Goodman blue bodice Bonwit Teller Brassiere Broadway Calvin Klein Chanel chemise clothing coat collar collections Color plate corset costume cotton couture crepe decade detail Dior Dior's dress editors Edwardian fabric fashion designers featured February feminine Fifth Avenue Figure Franklin Simon French frock garments gowns hats Hattie Carnegie hemlines hips hobble skirt Ibid included jackets Jantzen jewelry knit lace Ladies leather lines look Lord & Taylor magazine March mass produced models Nast November October pants Paris patterns pink pleated production rayon ready-to-wear makers ready-to-wear manufacturers revivalisms S-bend Saint Laurent Saks Fifth Avenue satin season September shoes silhouette silk Sizes skirt smart Street suit swimwear tailored tion trimmed twentieth century versions Vogue Vogue's waist waistline wardrobe wear woman wool World worn York Yves Saint Laurent