The Second Death of George Mallory: The Enigma and Spirit of Mount EverestAs a boy, climbing legend Reinhold Messner was inspired by another legend: George Mallory’s tragic final ascent of Mount Everest in 1924. To Messner, and to thousands of others, Mallory’s attempt—whether or not it succeeded—remains the greatest exploit in the annals of mountain climbing. Though Mallory’s body was finally found, we have lost, Messner believes, the spirit that guided him; summiting Everest has become merely a corporate challenge and a matter of technology, not a rendezvous with destiny. Using the British climber’s journals and letters, Messner thrillingly re-creates Mallory’s three assaults on Everest, including his final ascent. Here is both an investigation into the death of George Mallory and a deeply felt homage—to a mountain, to the spirit of an age, and to the man who inspired those who followed in his footsteps. |
Contents
1921 Heading East | 11 |
1922 The Assault from the North | 53 |
1953 The Ascent from the South | 121 |
1975 Telephones and Human Chains | 141 |
1999 Hobnailed Boots and the Internet | 171 |
Notes on Sources | 187 |
About the Author | 203 |
Other editions - View all
Common terms and phrases
Alpine Journal altitude sickness Anker arête ARNOLT BRONNEN ascent assault attempt Base Camp boots breathing Changtse Chöbuk Chomolungma climb Mount Everest climbers clouds cold Conrad Anker decide descent East Rongbuk Glacier Edward Felix EDWARD FELIX NORTON equipment establish Camp feet final pyramid Finch fixed ropes four Geoffrey Bruce George Everest George Mallory Harris and Wager height highest Hillary and Tensing hope Howard-Bury hundred meters ice ax Kharta ladder ledges Lhakpa loads look Mallory and Irvine Mallory's mist morning Morshead moun Mount Everest night North Col north face North Ridge Northeast Ridge Norton and Somervell Odell oxygen oxygen apparatus party peak pitched porters reach Camp reach the summit reconnaissance Reinhold Messner remains rock step Rongbuk Glacier Rongbuk Valley route rucksack Second Step Sherpas side slabs snow slope Sodnam Norbu spirit steep summit of Everest tent Tibet Tibetan weather wind Wyn Harris