The Great Fashion DesignersFrom Charles Frederick Worth to Nicolas Ghesquière, designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of contemporary popular culture. This brilliantly written analysis of the achievements of the 50 greatest names in international fashion explores their lives, both personal and professional, drawing on the latest academic research and on the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers spanning a 30-year period.The designers' working methods and career highlights are outlined in detailed and wittily written entries that capture the spirit of their times. From Poiret and Patou to Gernreich and Galliano, the sometimes provocative selection of 50 names poses stimulating questions about the definition of a fashion designer in the modern era. A ground-breaking book, this is a definitive introduction to fashion designers that is essential reading for both students and general readers alike. |
Contents
INTRODUCTION | 1 |
PART 1 Early Days | 4 |
Introduction | 7 |
1 CHARLES FREDERICK WORTH 18251895 | 9 |
2 CALLOT SOEURS 18951937 | 13 |
3 JEANNE PAQUIN 18691936 | 17 |
4 PAUL POIRET 18791944 | 21 |
PART 2 1910s1930s | 23 |
25 ANDRÉ COURRÈGES 1923 | 122 |
26 VALENTINO 1932 | 129 |
27 KARL LAGERFELD 1938 | 133 |
28 HALSTON 19321990 | 136 |
29 KENZO 1939 | 140 |
30 RALPH LAUREN 1939 | 144 |
31 ISSEY MIYAKE 1935 | 151 |
32 GEOFFREY BEENE 19272004 | 155 |
5 MARIANO FORTUNY 18711949 | 25 |
Introduction | 30 |
6 JEANNE LANVIN 18671946 | 35 |
7 GABRIELLE CHANEL 18831971 | 39 |
8 JEAN PATOU 18801936 | 43 |
9 MADELEINE VIONNET 18761975 | 47 |
10 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 18901973 | 51 |
11 MAINBOCHER 18901976 | 55 |
12 ADRIAN 19031959 | 58 |
13 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 18981960 | 62 |
14 MADAME ALIX GRÈS 19031993 | 67 |
PART 3 1940s1950s | 71 |
Introduction | 73 |
15 CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA 18951972 | 77 |
16 CHRISTIAN DIOR 19051957 | 83 |
17 CHARLES JAMES 19061978 | 87 |
18 CLAIRE MCCARDELL 19051958 | 90 |
19 HUBERT DE GIVENCHY 1927 | 95 |
20 PIERRE CARDIN 1922 | 98 |
21 MARY QUANT 1934 | 102 |
22 RUDI GERNREICH 19221985 | 106 |
PART 4 1960s1970s | 111 |
Introduction | 113 |
23 NORMAN NORELL 19001972 | 115 |
24 YVES SAINT LAURENT 19362008 | 118 |
33 CALVIN KLEIN 1942 | 161 |
34 GIORGIO ARMANI 1934 | 167 |
PART 5 1980s | 171 |
Introduction | 173 |
35 REI KAWAKUBO 1942 | 175 |
36 YOHJI YAMAMOTO 1943 | 179 |
37 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 1941 | 183 |
38 PAUL SMITH 1946 | 187 |
39 AZZEDINE ALAIA c 1940 | 190 |
40 GIANNI VERSACE 19461997 | 195 |
41 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 1952 | 200 |
42 DOLCE GABBANA DOMENICO DOLCE 1958 STEFANO GABBANA 1962 | 205 |
43 JOHN GALLIANO 1960 | 211 |
44 DONNA KARAN 1948 | 214 |
PART 6 1990s | 219 |
Introduction | 221 |
45 MIUCCIA PRADA 1949 | 225 |
46 MARTIN MARGIELA 1959 | 228 |
47 MARC JACOBS 1963 | 234 |
48 TOM FORD 1962 | 238 |
49 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 1969 | 242 |
50 NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE 1971 | 247 |
ILLUSTRATIONS | 251 |
| 253 | |