SilkThis gorgeously illustrated volume not only offers a tour through the fascinating history of silk but also a glimpse into the future, when imaginative designers and textile producers will be changing the boundaries of what is possible with this extraordinary material. Textile expert Mary Schoeser presents an authoritative account of the development of silk, its properties and practical uses, and its role in some of the greatest achievements in the history of fashion design. Silk is magical. Made by worms, it is able to absorb up to thirty times its weight in water, it is warmer than wool, and it is unsurpassed for beauty and touch. Schoeser focuses keen attention on silk’s evolution as a symbol of status and substance, then traces its central function in 19th- and 20th-century glamour, expressed through the work of designers from Christian Dior to Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga to Emmanuel Ungaro. Schoeser also examines the innovative use of silk by today’s cutting-edge designers, among them Alexander McQueen, Issey Miyake, and John Galliano of Dior. She concludes with a detailed investigation of new silk technologies and how they continue to extend both the physical properties of silk and the possibilities for creative design. |
Contents
Foreword by Julien Macdonald | 7 |
Silk in Use | 67 |
Silk in Detail 116 | 98 |
The Potential of Silk | 171 |
Silk in Action | 189 |
APPENDICES | 232 |
Glossary | 248 |
Common terms and phrases
Asia became Bombyx mori brocaded Byzantine century China Chinese silk cocoons collection color cotton courtesy of FG/FG couture create crêpe damask degumming developed dress Dunhuang dyeing eastern effect embroidered embroidery Empire established Europe European example fabrics fashion fibroin filaments finished French garments gene gold haute couture ikat India Islamic Italian Jacquard Japan Japanese Julien Macdonald knitting known L-fibroin later London loom Lyon machine material metal motifs mulberry silk Museum of Art opposite organza organzine Ottoman overleaf painted patterns period Persian Photo courtesy produced proteins raw silk reeling ribbons Roberto Cavalli satin Schoeser sericin sericulture shibori silk cloths silk fiber silk fibroin silk gland silk industry silk production silk routes silk threads silk weaving silk's silkworm Sogdian spider silk spun structure style synthetic taffeta techniques textile texture tiraz trade tussah twisted velvet warp wear weavers weft Weisbrod-Zürrer wild silk woven yarns Zhou