better calculated to augment the cabinet of some little, capricious, spoiled, princess, who was just capable of running alone, than that of a grave and learned body, yiz. the slippers of the Virgin Mary, Judas's purse, &c.! In a small room in the library we saw a large chest, about the size of a bureau bedstead, double locked and sealed, containing the manuscripts of the late King, which he directed should not be opened till fifty years after his decease. Conjecture and expectation frequently hover over this case, which will, no doubt, one day unfold to Sweden much interesting memoir, and literary treasure. Here we were shewn some Icelandic manuscripts, said to be upwards of eight hundred years old, and several Lapland tracts. How wonderful, that literature should have lived, and even smiled, in regions which the sun rarely warms!

In one of the mineralogical collections, separate from that of M.'Aftzelius, we were much gratified by seeing some transparent agates containing flies, elastic sandstones, incombustible purses of asbestos, a mineral found in the iron mines of Danemora, some beautiful chrystals and many other rarities, which were displayed and explained with the greatest perspicuity and urbanity. The students amount to about one thousand, lodge, and board themselves according to their finances, and inclinations in the town in general they wear a black gown without sleeves.

By an unaccountable mistake we omitted to bring with us some letters of introduction to the university, which were offered to us at Stockholm, but upon a professor, who happened to be in the cathredral at the same time with ourselves, observing that we were Englishmen, he, in the politest manner, enabled us to see what was most worthy of our attention. Our omission, and Professor Aftzelius's imperfect knowledge of the English language, produced a momentary embarrassment: "How dare you," said he, making a low bow," come here "without letters of introduction?" What he meant is obvious, from the politeness with which he received The Professor will not be angry, I am sure, and the following whimsical error will completely keep him in

us.

countenance; it was related by the brave and venerable Frince de Leigne, whom I had the pleasure of meeting at Mr. Jackson's, our ambassador at Berlin, of an Englishman who had been introduced to him, and who was vehemently anxious to make himself master of the French language. It was the custom with this gentleman, for the purpose of restraining as much as possible the blunders which he was perpetually committing, always in conversation to speak each sentence in Eng lish first, and then to translate it into French. One day he called upon the Prince who is a very active man, although far advanced in years, and finding him on his couch, and wishing to rally him on the occasion, thus began: "My Prince, Mon Prince-I am glad to see you, je suis charn é de vous voir-On your couch, dans "votre accouchment-that is, instead of on your So"pha,' in your lying in."

The revenues of this university, the first in the north of Europe, are rather narrow; fortunate would it be for this learned institution if it were more the fashion to commit the sons of gentlemen and noblemen to its care; nothing but such patronage is wanting to expand its energies, genius and learning having made this spot their favorite residence. The attentions that we received there, and which our own forgetfulness rendered accidental, have left a lasting impression upon my mind of the respect which is paid to Englishmen.

It is by quitting it that we are able best to appreciate the value of our country; every Englishman who leaves it from honorable motives, becomes a subordinate representative of it, and ought to revolt at tarnishing a name which is every where honored.

The population of Sweden, including Finland, is rapidly encreasing; it is at present ascertained to exceed three millions. The revenues of Sweden arise from the poll-tax, about one shilling and three pence each person, with certain exceptions; royal demesnes, windows, horses, equipages, supernumerary servants, watches, tobacco, snuff, duties on exports and imports and distilled spirits, on mines and forges, part of the great tythes,

deductions from salaries, pensions and places, and monopoly of salt-petre. The herring fishery is said to be much on the decline. We found every thing, except: cloth, very cheap in Sweden.

CHAPTER IX.

Poor post-horses-Language-Merry criminal-Prison

ers-Psalm-singing watchmen-Washerwomen-French comedy-Passports-Indecorum of a little dog-Set sail for Swedish Finland-Begging on a new element—Islands upon islands-A massacre-The arts-Abo-Flies -Forests on fire-Russia-Fredericksham-Russian coins.

ΤΗ

HE Swedish peasantry are certainly not so merciful to their horses as their neighbors the Danes: but provident and generous Nature, who foreseeing the cru-elty of man towards the poor ass, armed his sides with the toughest hide, made his temper patient, and taught him to feed contentedly upon the thistle, seems to have fortified the Swedish post-horse against hardships and neglect. I have frequently seen this poor animal, after he. has brought us to the end of a long station, left to stand in the road, refreshed only now and then by some little bits of hard bread, broken from a circle which the driver generally wears slung over his shoulders. During this. excursion, as well as on our first progress through the country, my ear was frequently delighted by the strong resemblance between, and even identity of the Swedish and English languages, as in the following words: god. dag, good day; farvel, farewell; efter, after; go, go; vel, well; hoit, hat; long, long; eta, eat; fisk, fish; peppar, pepper; salt, salt; vinn, wine; liten, little; tvo, two; go out, go out; streum, river; rod, red, &c. &c.

The Swedish language, which is derived from the Gothic, has two different pronunciations; one in which every letter in a word is heard just as it is written, such as it is used in the various branches of oratory; the other, established by custom for common use, has many abbreviations, and, in many instances, I was informed by an intelligent Swede, deviates from the rules of grammar. The language is very sonorous: it places, as does, the Danish, the article at the end of the nouns, as in the most ancient languages, contrary to the English and German, as the man, der man; Swedish, mannen.

Some of the national songs are said to be very sweet, and to breathe the true spirit of poetry. Amongst their modern poets, they speak with great rapture of Dalin; and amongst their ancient of Stiern hielm, who flourished in the reign of Gustavus Adolphus, and, wonderful to relate, was the greatest mathematician and poet of his age. Perhaps it was the life of that singular man that suggested that whimsical satyrical poem, "the Loves of the Triangles."

The highest orders of the Swedes are highly culti→ vated, well informed, and accomplished. In consequence of every parish having a public school, almost every peasant can read, and many of the sons of the peasants are sent from these schools to the colleges at Upsala.

As I was strolling through the streets of Stockholm, just after our return from Upsala, I met with an occurrence which clearly established that an annate sentiment of submission to the laws will better ensure the safe custody of their violator than guards and gaolers; and it is admitted, that the Swedes are more under the influence of such an impulse than any other people. Turning a corner, I was overtaken by a raw flaxen-headed countryman, who, as it afterwards proved, had never been in the city before, driving, in a little country cart, a very robust merry looking fellow, whose hands were fastened by a large clumsy pair of handcuffs, and one leg chained to some little slips of wood which composed part of the body of the vehicle. Both driver and culprit had, it appeared, indulged themselves with a few snaps on the road, and were neither of them very sober nor

sorrowful. The prisoner, who, from his superior size and strength, might, I am satisfied, have easily knocked' down the rustic with the iron round his hands, if he had been so disposed, and effected his escape with little or no difficulty, sat at his case, amusing himself with now and then pinching his conductor, which was always followed by a joke, and a mutual hearty laugh. In this way they jogged on through the city, the thief shewing his driver the road to the gaol, as merrily as if he had been going 'to the house of festivity. I saw several prisoners passed from one town to another, under similar circumstances of apparent insecurity. They all appeared to be too unconcerned, if not, cheerful, to be secured by the trammels of conscience, which is said to be sometimes capable of holding a ruffian by a hair.

Upon visiting the principal prison, the rooms appeared to me to be too small and close, were much too crowded with prisoners, and the healthy and the sick were confined together. The prisoners were not compelled to work as in Copenhagen, to which circumstance, and the preceding causes, their sallow looks may be attributable: they are permitted to take the air only for a short time in the court-yard twice in the day. I was shocked to see a bar of iron, as long and as thick as a great kitchen poker, rivetted to each man's leg, and which, to enable him to move, he was obliged to preserve in a horizontal position, by a cord fastened to the end of it, and suspended from his waist. To load a prisoner with irons of any other weight or shape than what are ne→ cessary for security, is a reflection upon the justice, humanity, and policy of the government that permits it. The women were confined in a separate division of the building they were not ironed, but their cells were too close and crowded; and they were also permitted to live in indolence. I must confess, when I reflected upon the enlightened benevolence of the Swedish nation, I was surprised to see how little this place appeared to have shared in its solicitude, and most cordially do I hope that the time is not distant, when these miserable wretches will be rendered more comfortable, and less burthensome to the state.