vereign uniting exactly the opposite characteris- of the attributes ascribed to it at present visible. tics, than one possessed of all the happy quali- The nine Muses could hardly have stood in wi ties ascribed to this emperor. "When he mount-niches; and Juvenal certainly does not allude ed the throne," says the historian Dion, "he was to any individual cave. *) Nothing can be colstrong in body, he was vigorous in mind; age lected from the satirist but that somewhere near had impaired none of his faculties; he was al- the Porta Capena was a spot in which it was together free from envy and from detraction; he supposed Numa held nightly consultations with honoured all the good and he advanced them; his nymph, and where there was a grove and and on this account they could not be the ob- sacred fountain, and fanes once consecrated is ject of his fear, or of his hate; he never listened the Muses; and that from this spot there was a to informers; he gave not way to his anger; he descent into the valley of Egeria, where were abstained equally from unfair exactions and un- several artificial caves. It is clear that the sta Just punishments; he had rather be loved as a tues of the Muses made no part of the decorman than honoured as a sovereign; he was af- tion which the satirist thought misplaced a fable with his people, respectful to the senate, these caves; for he expressly assigns other fan and universally beloved by both; he inspired (delubra) to these divinities above the valley none with dread but the enemies of his country." and moreover tells us, that they had been epd ed to make room for the Jews. In fact, the little temple, now called that of Bacchus, va formerly thought to belong to the Moses, and Nardini places them in a poplar-grove, which was in his time above the valley.

Rienzi, last of Romans! [p. 49. St. 114. The name and exploits of Rienzi must be familiar to the reader of Gibbon.

Egeria! sweet creation of some heart Which found no mortal resting-place so fair As thine ideal breast. (p. 49. St. 115. The respectable authority of Flaminius Vacca would incline us to believe in the claims of the Egerian grotto. He assures us that he saw an inscription in the pavement, stating that the fountain was that of Egeria dedicated to the nymphs. The inscription is not there at this day but Montfaucon quotes two lines) of Ovid from a stone in the Villa Giustiniani, which he seems to think had been brought from the same grotto.

It is probable, from the inscription and posttion, that the cave now shown may be one of the "artificial caverns," of which, indeed, there is another a little way higher up the vales, under a tuft of alder bushes: but a single gross of Egeria is a mere modern invention, grafind upon the application of the epithet Egerian to these nymphea in general, and which might send us to look for the haunts of Numa upon the banks of the Thames.

Our English Juvenal was not seduced inte mistranslation by his acquaintance with Pepe: he carefully preserves the correct plural—

Thence slowly winding down the vale we view The Egerian grots; oh, how unlike the tree! The valley abounds with springs, and ser these springs, which the Muses might haunt from their neighbouring groves, Egeria presided: hence she was said to supply them with water. and she was the nymph of the grottos through which the fountains were taught to flow.

This grotto and valley were formerly frequented in summer, and particularly the first Sunday in May, by the modern Romans, who attached a salubrious quality to the fountain which trickles from an orifice at the bottom of the vault, and, overflowing the little pools, creeps down the matted grass into the brook below. The brook is the Ovidian Almo, whose name and qualities are lost in the modern Aquataccio. The valley itself is called Valle di Caffarelli, from the dukes The whole of the monuments in the vicin of that name who made over their fountain to of the Egerian valley have received names a the Pallavicini, with sixty rubbia of adjoining land. will, which have been changed at will. Veuri There can be little doubt that this long dell is owns he can see no traces of the temples of the Egerian valley of Juvenal, and the pausing-Jove, Saturn, Juno, Venus, and Diana, which place of Umbricius, notwithstanding the general- Nardini found, or hoped to find. The me ity of his commentators have supposed the des- rium of Caracalla's circus, the temple of ¡¡onse* cent of the satirist and his friend to have been and Virtue, the temple of Bacchus, and above into the Arician grove, where the nymph met all, the temple of the god Rediculus, are the Hippolitus, and where she was more peculiarly antiquaries' despair. worshipped.

The step from the Porta Capena to the Alban hill, fifteen miles distant, would be too considerable, unless we were to believe in the wild conjecture of Vossius, who makes that gate travel from its present station, where he pretends it was during the reign of the Kings, as far as the Arician grove, and then makes it recede to its old site with the shrinking city. The tufo, or pumice, which the poet prefers to marble, is the substance composing the bank in which the grotto is sunk.

The modern topographers find in the grotto the statue of the nymph and nine niches for the Muses, and a late traveller has discovered that the cave is restored to that simplicity which the poet regretted had been exchanged for injudicious ornament. But the headless statue is palpably rather a male than a nymph, and has none

*) In villa Justiniana exstat ingens lapis quadratus solidus in quo sculpta hæc duo Ovidii carmina sunt:

Egeria est quæ præbet aquas dea grata Camœnis.
Illa Numa conjux consiliumque fuit.
Qui lapis videtur ex eodem Egeriæ fonte, ant
ejus vicinia isthuc comportatus.

The circus of Caracalla depends on a medal of that emperor cited by Fulvins Ursinus, which the reverse shows a circus, supposed, bowever, by some to represent the Circus Maximus. It gives a very good idea of that place of ext cise. The soil has been but little raised, if we may judge from the small cellular structure a the end of the Spina, which was probable the chapel of the god Consus. This cell is balf beneath the soil, as it must have been in the cir cus itself, for Dionysius could not be persuaded to believe that this divinity was the Remu Neptune, because his altar was underground.

--He, their sire,
Butcher'd to make a Roman holiday.

Yet let us ponder boldly. [p. 50. St. 127. I see before me the Gladiator lie. At all events," says the author of the Aca(p. 52. St. 140. ical Questions, "I trust, whatever may be Whether the wonderful statue which suggested fate of my own speculations, that philosophy this image be a laquearian gladiator, which in regain that estimation which it ought to spite of Winkelmann's criticism has been stoutly ess. The free and philosophic spirit of our maintained, or whether it be a Greek herald, as on has been the theme of admiration to the that great antiquary positively asserted *) or d. This was the proud distinction of Eng- whether it is to be thought a Spartan or barnen, and the luminous source of all their barian shield-bearer, according to the opinion of y. Shall we then forget the manly and dig his Italian editor, it must assuredly seem a d sentiments of our ancestors, to prate in copy of that masterpiece of Ctesilaus which relanguage of the mother or the nurse about presented "a wounded man dying, who perfectly good old prejudices? This is not the way expressed what there remained of life in him." **) defend the 'cause of truth. It was not thus Mountfaucon and Maffei thought it the identical t our fathers maintained it in the brilliant statue; but that statue was of bronze. The glaiods of our history. Prejudice may be trust-diator was once in the villa Ludovisi, and was to guard the outworks for a short space of bought by Clement XII. The arm is an entire e while reason slumbers in the citadel: but restoration of Michael Angelo. the latter sink into a lethargy, the former I quickly erect a standard for herself. Philohy, wisdom, and liberty, support each other; who will not reason, is a bigot; he who can, is a fool; and he who dares not, is a slave." --Great Nemesis! re, where the ancient paid thee homage long. [p. 51. St. 132. We read in Suetonius that Augustus, from a rning received in a dream, counterfeited, once year, the beggar, sitting before the gate of palace with his hand hollowed and stretched t for charity.) A statue formerly in the Villa rghese, and which should be now at Paris, presents the Emperor in that posture of supication. The object of this self-degradation is the appeasement of Nemesis, the perpetual tendant on good fortune, of whose power the man conquerors were also reminded by cerin symbols attached to their cars of triumph. he symbols were the whip and the crotalo, ich were discovered in the Nemesis of the atican. The attitude of beggary made the above atue pass for that of Belisarius: and until the iticism of Winkelmann had rectified the miske, one fiction was called in to support another. was the same fear of the sudden termination prosperity that made Amasis king of Egypt arn his friend Polycrates of Samos, that the ds loved those whose lives were chequered ith good and evil fortunes. Nemesis was supsed to lie in wait particularly for the prudent: at is, for those whose caution rendered them ccessible only to mere accidents: and her first itar was raised on the banks of the Phrygian sepus by Adrastus, probably the prince of that ame who killed the son of Cræsus by mistake. lence the goddess was called Adrastea.

The Roman Nemesis was sacred and august; here was a temple to her in the Palatine under he name of Rhamnusia: so great indeed was the ropensity of the ancients to trust to the revoution of events, and to believe in the divinity f Fortune, that in the same Palatine there was temple to the Fortune of the day. This is the Fast superstition which retains its hold over the Luman heart, and, from concentrating in one object the credulity so natural to man, has always appeared strongest in those unembarrassed by other articles of belief. The antiquaries have upposed this goddess to be synonimous with forstune and with fate: but it was in her vindictive quality that she was worshipped under the name of Nemesis.

[p. 52. St. 141. Gladiators were of two kinds, compelled and voluntary; and were supplied from several conditions; from slaves sold for that purpose; from culprits; from barbarian captives either taken in war, and, after being led in triumph, set apart for the games, or those scized and condemned as rebels; also from free citizens, some fighting for hire (auctorati), others from a depraved ambition: at last even knights and senators were exhibited, a disgrace of which the first tyrant was naturally the first inventor. ***) In the end, dwarfs, and even women, fought; an enormity prohibited by Severus. Of these the most to be pitied undoubtedly were the barbarian captives; and to this species a Christian writer) justly applies the epithet "innocent," to distinguish them from the professional gladiators. Aurelian and Claudius supplied great numbers of these unfortunate victims; the one after his triumph, and the other on the pretext of a rebellion. No war, says Lipsius, was ever so destructive to the human race as these sports. In spite of the laws of Constantine and Constans, gladiatorial shows survived the old established religion more than seventy years; but they owed their final extinction to the courage of a Christian. In the year 404, on the kalends of January, they were exhibiting the shows in the Flavian amphitheatre before the usual immense concourse of people. Almachius or Telemachus, an eastern monk, who had travelled to Rome intent on his holy purpose, rushed into the midst of the area, and endeavoured to separate the combatants. The prætor Alypius, a person incredibly attached to these games, gave instant orders to the gladiators to slay him; and Telemachus gained the crown of martyrdom, and the title of saint, which surely has never either before or since been awarded for a more noble exploit. Honorius immediately abolished the shows, which were never afterwards revived.

*) Either Polifontes, herald of Laius, killed by Edipus; or Cepreas, herald of Euritheus, killed by the Athenians when he endeavoured to drag the Heraclidæ from the altar of Mercy, and in whose honour they instituted annual games, continued to the time of Hadrian; or Anthemocritus, the Athenian herald, killed by the Megarenses, who never recovered the impiety.

**) Vulneratum deficientem fecit in quo possit intelligi quantum restat animæ. PLIN. Nat. Hist. XXXIV. 8.

***) Julius Cæsar, who rose by the fall of the aristocracy, brought Furius Leptinus and A. Calenus upon the arena.

+) Tertullian, "certe quidem et innocentes gladiatores in ludum veniunt, ut voluptatis publica hostia fiant."

The story is told by Theodoret and Cassiodorus, and seems worthy of credit notwithstanding its place in the Roman martyrology. Besides the torrents of blood which flowed at the funerals, in the amphitheatres, the circus, the forums, and other public places, gladiators were introduced at feasts, and tore each other to pieces amidst the supper-tables, to the great delight and applause of the guests. Yet Lipsius permits himself to suppose the loss of courage, and the evident degeneracy of mankind, to be nearly connected with the abolition of these bloody spectacles. *)

"

which enabled him to wear a wreath of laurel
on all occasions. He was anxious, not, to show
that he was the conqueror of the world, bet to
hide that he was bald. A stranger at Rame
would hardly have guessed at the motive, sa
should we without the help of the historian.

While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stad
[p. 52. St. 6 i

This is quoted in the Decline and Fall of
Roman Empire.

And they who feel for genius may repose
Their eyes on honour'd forms, whose busta around
them close.
[p. 52. St. 18.
The Pantheon has been made a receptacle ir
the busts of modern great, or, at least, di
guished men. The flood of light, which once
through the large orb above on the whole cit
of divinities, now shines on a numerous uses
blage of mortals, some one or two of whom are
been almost deified by the veneration of th
countrymen.

Spared and blest by time. [p. 52. &# Here, where the Roman million's blame or praise. Though plundered of all its brass, excep Was death or life, the playthings of a crowd. ring which was necessary to preserve the [p. 52. St. 142. ture above; though exposed to repeated in When one gladiator wounded another, he though sometimes flooded by the river, ani shouted "he has it." "hoc habet, or "habet." ways open to the rain, no monument of The wounded combatant dropped his weapon, antiquity is so well preserved as this ne and advancing to the edge of the arena, suppli-It passed with little alteration from the pa cated the spectators. If he had fought well, the into the present worship; and so convenient vm people saved him; if otherwise, or as they hap- its niches for the Christian altar, that Mici pened to be inclined, they turned down their Angelo, ever studious of ancient beasty, i thumbs, and he was slain. They were occasion- duced their design as a model in the Cath ally so savage that they were impatient if a church. combat lasted longer than ordinary without wounds or death. The emperor's presence generally saved the vanquished: and it is recorded as an instance of Caracalla's ferocity, that he sent those who supplicated him for life, in a spectacle at Nicomedia, to ask the people; in other words, handed them over to be slain. A similar ceremony is observed at the Spanish bull-fights. The magistrate presides; and after the horsemen and piccadores have fought the bull, the matadore steps forward and bows to him for permission to kill the animal. If the bull has done his duty by killing two or three horses, or a man, which last is rare, the people interfere with shouts, the ladies wave their handkerchiefs, and the animal is saved. The wounds and death of the horses are accompanied with the loudest acclamations, and many gestures of delight, especially from the female portion of the audience, including those of the gentlest blood. Every thing depends on habit. The author of Childe Harold, the writer of this note, and one or two other Englishmen, who have certainly in other days borne the sight of a pitched battle, were, during the summer of 1809, in the governor's box at the great amphitheatre of Santa Maria, opposite to Cadiz. The death of one or two horses completely satisfied their curiosity. A gentleman present, observing them shudder and look pale, noticed that unusual reception of so delightful a sport to some young ladies, who stared and smiled, and continued their applauses as another horse fell bleeding to the ground. One bull killed three horses off his own horns. He was saved by acclamations, which were redoubled when it was known he belonged to a priest.

An Englishman who can be much pleased with seeing two men beat themselves to pieces, cannot bear to look at a horse galloping round an arena with his bowels trailing on the ground, and turns from the spectacle and the spectators with horror and disgust.

Like laurels on the bald first Caesar's head. [p. 52. St. 144. Suetonius informs us that Julius Cæsar was particularly gratified by that decree of the senate,

*) "Quod? non tu Lipsi momentum aliquod habuisse censes ad virtutem? Magnum. Tempora nostra, nosque ipsos videamus. Oppidum ecce unum alterumve captum, direptum est; tumultus circa nos, non in nobis; et tamen concidimus et turbamur. Ubi robur, ubi tot per annos meditata sapientiæ studia? ubi ille animus qui possit dicere, si fractus illabatur orbis ? The prototype of Mr. Windham's panegyric on bull-baiting.

There is a dungeon, in whose dim drear ligh [p. 52. St. 14

This and the three next stanzas allude to the story of the Roman daughter, which is rec to the traveller by the site, or pretended se of that adventure now shown at the church Saint Nicholas in carcere.

Turn to the mole which Hadrian rear'd en bigh
The castle of Saint Angelo.

[p. 53. St.

(p. 53. St. 15 This and the six next stanzas have a referent to the church of St. Peter.

-The strange fate Which tumbles mightiest sovereigns (p. 53. St. 17 Mary died on the scaffold; Elizabeth of a broken heart; Charles V. a hermit; Lonis U. a bankrupt in means and glory: Cromwel anxiety; and, "the greatest is behind, Vap lives a prisoner. To these sovereigns a long superfluous list might be added of names equally illustrious and unhappy.

Lo, Nemi! navell'd in the woody hills. [p. 55. St. 172 The village of Nemi was near the Arician retreat of Egeria, and, from the shades embosomed the temple of Diana, has preserved to this day its distinctive appellation of Grove. Nemi is but an evening's ride from the comfortable inn of Albano.

T

If the conspiring voice of otherwise rival eritics had not given considerable currency to the Classical Tour, it would have been unnecessary to warn the reader, that, however it may aders his library, it will be of little or no service to him in his carriage; and if the judgment those critics had hitherto been suspended, attempt would have been made to antite their decision. As it is, those who stand a ar relation of posterity to Mr. Eustace may be permitted to appeal from cotemporary pran, and are perhaps more likely to be just in pr portion as the causes of love and hatred are the farther removed. This appeal had, in same measure, been made before the above rezaru were written; for one of the most respectable of the Florentine publishers, who had been per suaded by the repeated inquiries of these their journey southwards, to reprint a cheap edition of the Classical Tour, was, by the ca curring advice of returning travellers, indured to abandon his design, although he had already arranged his types and paper, and had struck of one or two of the first sheets.

perpetual introduction of the same Gallic Helot | ping of the copper from the cupola of St. Pe to reel and bluster before the rising generation, ter's, must be much relieved to find that sacri and terrify it into decency by the display of lege out of the power of the French, or any all the excesses of the revolution. An animosity other plunderers, the cupola being covered with against atheists and regicides in general, and lead. *) Frenchmen specifically, may be honourable, and may be useful, as a record; but that antidote should either be administered in any work rather than a tour, or, at least, should be served up apart, and not so mixed with the whole mass of information and reflexion, as to give a bitterness to every page: for who would choose to have the antipathies of any man, however just, for his travelling companions? A tourist, unless he aspires to the credit of prophecy, is not answerable for the changes which may take place in the country which he describes; but his reader may very fairly esteem all his political portraits and deductions as so much waste paper, the moment they cease to assist, and more particularly if they obstruct, his actual survey. Neither encomium nor accusation of any government, or governors, is meant to be here offered, but it is stated as an incontrovertible fact, that the change operated, either by the address of the late imperial system, or by the disappointment of every expectation by those who have succeeded to the Italian thrones, has been so considerable, and is so apparent, as not only to put Mr. Eustace's Antigallican philippics entirely out of date, but even to throw some suspicion upon the competency and candour of the author himself. A remarkable example may be found in the instance of Bologna, over whose papal attachments, and consequent desolation, the tourist pours forth such strains of condolence and revenge, made louder by the borrowed trumpet of Mr. Burke. Now Bologna is at this moment, and has been for some years, notorious amongst the states of Italy for its attachment to revolutionary principles, and was almost the only city which made any demonstrations in favour of the unfortunate Murat. This change may, however, have been made since Mr. Eustace visited this country; but the traveller whom he has thrilled with horror at the projected strip

The writer of these notes would wish to part (like Mr. Gibbon) on good terms with the Pape and the Cardinals, but he does not think it ne cessary to extend the same discreet silence is their humble partisans.

*) "What then will be the astonishment e rather the horror, of my reader, when lis form him .. the French Coun turned its attention to Saint Peter's, and enployed a company of Jews to estimate and purchase the gold, silver, and bronze adorn the inside of the edifice, as well as the copper that covers the vaults and deme sa the outside." The story about the Jews is positive ly denied at Rome.

NOTES TO THE GIAOUR.

That tomb which, gleaming o'er the cliff. [p. 57. | tempted in description, but those who have, will A tomb above the rocks on the promontory, by probably retain a painful remembrance of th some supposed the sepulchre of Themistocles.

Sultana of the Nightingale. [p. 57. The attachment of the nightingale to the rose is a wellknown Persian fable. If I mistake not, the "Bulbul of a thousand tales" is one of his appellations.

Till the gay mariner's guitar. [p. 57, The guitar is the constant amusement of the Greek sailor by night: with a steady fair wind, and during a calm, it is accompanied always by the voice, and often by dancing.

Where cold Obstruction's apathy. [p. 58. "Ay, but to die and go we know not where To lie in cold obstruction."

Measure for Measure, Act. 11. Sc. 1.

The first, last look by death reveal'd. [p. 58. I trust that few of my readers have ever had an opportunity of witnessing what is here at

singular beauty which pervades, with few e ceptions, the features of the dead, a few be after the spirit is not there." It is to be to marked in cases of violent death by gushit wounds, the expression is always that of las whatever the natural energy of the sufere character; but in death from a stab the it tenance preserves its traits of feeling or ferocity, and the mind its bias, to the last.

Slaves-nay, the bondsmen of a slave.

Athens is the property of the Kislar Agathe slave of the seraglio and guardian of the wee who appoints the Waywode. A pander eunuch these are not polite, yet tree appella tions-now governs the governor of Athens!

In echoes of the far tophaike. [r "Tophaike," musquet.-The Bairam is seven ced by the cannon at sunset; the illuminare of the Mosques, and the firing of all kinds small arms, loaded with ball, proclaim it during the night.