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under his command, that of Tilli is a mere mayor, without rank or authority. The present governor, whose name is Búba-Sadíki, enjoyed still less authority from personal reasons, as he was prostrated with the same illness which had lamed the Governor of Say. This "señi" or rheumatism, as I have stated on former occasions, is a kind of disease of which every African traveler who exposes himself a great deal during the rainy season, particularly along swampy regions and in leaky boats, is very susceptible. I suffered dreadfully from it after my return to Bórnu.

While the télamíd of the sheikh went in person to the governor in order to alleviate, if possible, his enfeebled state by means of their prayers and blessing, I made him a small present and he sent me some rice in acknowledgment. The little market was tolerably well supplied, and I was very glad to find here, besides sorghum, the large wholesome onions of Gando, and some dodówa, sour milk also being in considerable abundance; and it was interesting to observe how much more cheerful all the inhabitants were under the present circumstances than they had been the previous year. I should have liked very much to have paid my compliments to my friend of Zogírma, in order to see how he was going on after being relieved from a great part of the anxiety which appeared to oppress him the year before; but, fearing the delay, I resolved to make direct from here to Birni-n-Kebbi.

Monday, August 14th. We had heard already on our journey that we had arrived at the very latest time in order to cross, with any degree of safety, the swampy faddama of the gúlbi-n-Sókoto, which a little later in the season is extremely difficult to pass. At all events, it was very fortunate that no rain had fallen for the last few days, or we should have experienced considerable difficulty in crossing this swampy ground; even as it was, we had to traverse three sheets of water, the first of which was about three feet deep and of considerable breadth, the second forming the real bed of the river, running with a southwesterly bend toward the Kwára, although not so wide as the former, and the third forming a stagnant creek. Having passed some rice-fields, we at length, after a march of little more than three miles, emerged from the swampy bottom of the valley, and ascended rising ground covered with the fine crops belonging to the inhabitants of Diggi, and soon after left the town itself on our right, which, from our former journey, had remained in our remembrance, as we had here been met by the chivalrous sons of the Governor of Zogírma.

Here dukhn and durra were grown promiscuously in the same field, affording a proof that this ground is well adapted for both kinds of cultivation.

Having here fallen into our former road, I hastened on in advance along the well-known path toward Birni-n-Kebbi, which, however, now exhibited a different character, on account of the whole country being covered with tall crops; and turning round the walls of Kóla, we reached the gate of Birni-n-Kebbi. The aspect of this town had likewise undergone an entire change, but not to its advantage; the town, which of itself is narrow, being still more hemmed in by the crops. For the moment, the place had certainly a rather desolate appearance, the greater part of the inhabitants being engaged in an expedition led on by 'Abd el Káderi, or, as he is commonly called, 'Abd el Káderi-ay, a younger brother of Khalílu. As I rode up to the house of the mágaji or governor, Mohammed Lowel, he was just sitting in his parlor with a few of his people, when he, or rather his attendants, having recognized me as his old acquaintance 'Abd el Kerím, came out to salute me in a very cheerful manner. However, the expedition being expected to return the same evening, there was no room for us inside the town, and we were obliged to seek shelter outside, descending the steep and rugged slope to the border of the faddama, where we obtained, with difficulty, quarters for myself in an isolated farm. The hut was extremely small, and full of ants; but the door was provided with a peculiar kind of curtain, made of the leaves of the deleb palm, which, while admitting access, entirely excluded the musquitoes, which infested this place in enormous quantities. We were well treated by the owner or maigída of the farm, in conformance with the orders which he received from the mágaji, to whom I sent a small present, reminding him of the larger gift which I had given him the preceding year. His hospitality was the more acceptable, as the market was very badly supplied, neither millet nor rice being procurable; sour milk also was extremely dear, as, on account of the crops, and the quantity of water covering the valley, the cattle had been all sent off to a great distance, into the neighborhood of Gando.

Late in the evening the expedition returned, bringing about one hundred head of cattle and thirty slaves whom they had captured from the enemy; but, although the commander of the expedition was to return to Gando himself, I did not like to wait for him, and started early the next morning along our old path, which

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was only distinguished at present by the quantity of water with which it was covered, especially near the village Hausáwa, where the whole shallow bed of the valley formed one sheet of water three feet deep. A good deal of cultivation of rice was at present to be seen. Thus we reached Gúlumbé, where, this time, in consequence of the quantity of rain that had fallen, inundating the ground outside close up to the wall, I took up my quarters inside the town, and obtained tolerably good lodgings, the court-yard being surrounded by a most exuberant growth of vegetation and the finest timber; but the mayor did not treat us quite so well as I expected, although I made him a present of a black shawl. The market here also being badly provided, I had great difficulty in obtaining a sufficient supply of corn for my horse.

We had scarcely left the narrow lanes of the town, with its extraordinary exuberance of vegetation, when the rain set in, so that we were wet both from above and below, the path either leading through tall crops or through pools of stagnant water. The path farther on, according to the information which we collected from people whom we met on the road, being entirely inundated, when we reached that western branch of the faddama, near the village of Badda-badda, we followed a more southerly direction to the large open village Kóchi, where we intended passing the night. But it was with the utmost difficulty that we obtained lodgings, nor did we experience the least sign of hospitality; and while an immense quantity of rain fell outside, I was greatly tormented by the number of musquitoes, which were insufficiently excluded from my hut by a stiff piece of leather hung before the door.

Thursday, August 17th. As soon as the weather allowed us we left this inhospitable village, and soon afterward entered forest, to which succeeded fine crops of corn. Four miles beyond Kóchi we had to cross a large faddama full of water, and intersected in the middle by a running stream, bordered by great numbers of water-lilies, and giving us altogether a fair idea of the difficulties attending traveling through this country at the present season of the year. A month later it would be entirely impassable for a European traveler encumbered with any amount of luggage. But the road was tolerably well frequented, and we were met by a long train of broad-shouldered, square-built Núpe females, each with a load of from six to eight enormous calabashes on her head, journeying to the Friday market of Jéga.

This is the important place which, under the command of ‘Abd

e' Salám, had made a long and successful resistance against the author of the reformatory movement of the Fúlbe, and which, on account of its mercantile importance, had attracted attention in Europe a good many years ago; and although it has declined at present from its former importance, it was still of sufficient consequence to make me desirous of visiting it; but the great quantity of rain which fell at this time, by rendering the communication very difficult for loaded camels, prevented me from executing my design. A little farther on I met with one of those incidents which, although simple and unimportant in their character, yet often serve to cheer the solitary traveler in foreign countries more than the most brilliant reception. After having crossed a valley, we were ascending the last rocky passage before coming to Gando, when we met here a troop of men, and, as soon as one of them saw me in the distance, he broke out into the cheering exclamation, "Márhaba, márhaba, 'Abd el Kerím." It was highly gratifying to me, when returning after a long absence to a place where I had resided for so short a time, to be recognized immediately and saluted in so hearty a manner, although my stay in Gando was connected with many a melancholy reminiscence.

Here, on the top of the rocky eminence, we obtained a view of the valley of Gando, and, descending, soon reached the gate of the town, and straightway rode to the house of the monkish prince, where we were soon surrounded by a number of people, who congratulated me on my fortunate return. After a while there appeared also my tormentor, El Bakáy, which name now appeared to me as a mere satire, associating as it did this vilest of Arabs with that noble man who had showed me so much disinterested friendship. But when he again commenced his old tactics I immediately made a serious protest, declaring at once that the only thing which it was in my power to give him this time was a black tobe and a red cap, and this I assured him he should not get until the very moment when I was about to leave the place. The dismal clay house where I had been lodged during my former stay in the place had since fallen in, and other quarters were assigned to me, consisting of a court-yard and two huts.

AWKWARD FATE OF A LETTER.

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CHAPTER LXXXII.

SECOND STAY IN GANDO, SO'KOTO, AND WURNO'.

THE quarters which had been allotted to me this time were at least a little more airy than my former ones. My former guide, Dahome, here paid me a visit. Upon asking him whether he had faithfully delivered to the m'allem 'Abd el Káder, in Sókoto, the parcel I had given him on his taking leave of me at Dóre, he put on a rather sullen look, took from his cap a small leather case, opened it, and, drawing forth a dirty piece of paper, to my utmost surprise and disappointment, exclaimed, "Here is your letter!" I then learned that, in consequence of the violent rains through which he had had to make his way, and the many rivers and swamps which he had to cross, the whole envelope of the letter, containing the lines addressed to my friend in Sókoto, had been destroyed, so that the latter, receiving only the English letter, and not knowing what to do with this hieroglyphic, at length returned it to the bearer, who had since used it as a charm. Besides this mishap, which had delayed this letter so long, instead of its being forwarded directly to Europe in order to inform my friends of my proceedings, there was another disagreeable piece of information for me here, viz., that nearly the half of the huts composing the town had been consumed during my absence by a conflagration, and that all my books which I had left behind had in consequence been destroyed.

I staid four days in Gando, endeavoring once more, in vain, to obtain an audience from the prince, and to persuade my companions, the télamíd, to give up their hopes of a handsome present from this niggardly man, who sent me, if I may attribute the proceedings of his slaves to himself, in return for all the presents I had made him, a common black tobe and 3000 shells, although my supplies were totally exhausted, and the two camels which I still possessed were more or less worn out, so that I stood greatly in need of generous aid; but, not wanting any thing besides from the governor, I was thankful that I had passed unmolested through his extensive dominions on my outward as well as on my homejourney, and even protected, as far as his feeble power was able to grant protection.