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FROM MESHI'LA TO KAHAIDE.

709

the hands of the Fulbe or Fullán. N'amá, the small town mentioned above as having been built by the Shurfa, is three days E. a little N. from Derís.

37th. Nwal, a well with an encampment of Arabs.

42d. Tádirt, a well with tents of the same.

47th. Líbe, a well of the same character.

50th. Mesila, a spring of running water at the foot of the kódia which surrounds El Hódh. The water of Mesíla is said to run toward the south.

N.B.-It must be borne in mind in laying down this route that my informant, a Pullo, wished to avoid the seats of the Welád Mebárek, and therefore followed in his generally northerly direction a very roundabout way.

56th. Afúlle, or rather an open Arab village in the district so named, the mountainous country having been entered on the fifty-second day. Afulle borders on Kaarta, and its eastern part is inhabited by Bámbara, but the northern portion is inhabited by the following Arab tribes: the Fáta, the Welád e' Násr, the Elkwézi or Lighwézi, the Askír, the Welád Bóde, and by two tribes of the Zuwaye or Merábetín, viz., the Tenwaijió and the Lághelél. Some of the divisions of these tribes are settled in the mountains, while others live in the plain called El Khénashish, rich in pasture-grounds, between which and the mountains there is a small town called Tugguba.

59th. Tiñírgi, a well with Arab settlers. Country mountainous.

62d. U ́mmat el adhám, a well. The last three days no water is found along the road, while in general, even in the tract intervening between two stations marked by my informant, watering-places are occasionally met with.

67th. Kawál, a lively spring of water. Country mountainous.

73d. Túgguba, an open village inhabited by Arabs. Many springs in the mountains.

76th. Waya, another Arab village.

78th. Meshíla, called by my informant "rás el Fúta," as the beginning of Fúta (at least in former times).

I now give the route from Meshíla to Kahaide:

1st day. Samóga, a mountain belonging to the mountainous district Asába. 2d. Wákoré, a village inhabited by Aswánek, but subjected to Fúta as well as to the Zenágha Arabs, to whom they pay tribute.

3d. Galúla, a village inhabited by Aswánek, and dependent upon Wákoré. It is situated at the foot of a mountain, from the top of which a brook of living water rushes down. This water-course is called Galúla, like the village, and is said to be full of fish.

4th. Dé il Kurbán, an Arab settlement on a wádí, with running water during the rainy season, which is said to flow into the Senegal. Country not under cultivation.

5th. Jumlaniye, another dwelling-place of the Zenágha on the same wádí. 6th. Wau Sámberlám, a high mountain ridge extending toward Bundu.

7th. Gilte, another locality in the same ridge. The country not under cultivation, and only temporarily inhabited after the rains.

8th. Tashot, a wádí with water in the rainy season. No cultivation.

9th. Bú-'Amúd, an open tract of country, the pasture-grounds for the cattle of the Fullán.

10th. Tara-múl, a locality on the same wádí. The country full of the large species of antelopes, giraffes, elephants, and buffaloes, and richly clad with large trees. 11th. Shilliyul, the same wádí richly adorned with trees. The country nearly level, only broken by a few hills. Abundance of cattle.

12th. Sugurére, a Fullán village. Country hilly.

13th. Bailabúbi, on the same wádí. The country hilly; nothing but pasturegrounds.

14th. Píttangál, another settlement of Fullán shepherds.

15th. Bogilchele, a place of the same description. At this point the Gurgul balléo, or black Gurgul, a small water-course coming from the N. E. in the direction of Gallúla, joins the Gurgul dhannéo, running from Akerére in Tagánet, the two forming henceforward a considerable water-course, at least during the rainy season. According to this informant, the small craft from Kahaide can navigate this creek, but of such communication the French accounts of the Senegal give no indication.

16th. Maktachuchi, or, as the spot is called in the Fulfulde language, Lumbírde

chutinkobe, a large pool of stagnant water, with river-horses, and surrounded by fine pasture-grounds. A section of the Limtúna are said to cultivate this ground. 17th. Rak Hilhébe, the plain of Hilhébe; property of the Brákena.

18th. Kerfát, the fields of Kahaide.

19th. Kahaide, on the W. side of a great bend of the Senegal. On your road you pass the large village Jéri-lúmburí.

I will here add a list of the chief divisions of Fúta, including the Wolof country, such as I'brahím communicated them to me: Lóre, Damga, Ferló, Nange-hore, the centre of Futa, Toró, Walbrek, Ndér, U'l, Niyán, Bachár, Kimínta, Ballindungu Sálu, Jolóf, Kayór.

00. From Meshila to Bakel. Very short marches.

1st day. Samba-sandíggi, a wádí in the wilderness, with Arab settlers. 2d. Dáwodá, a wádí.

3d. Nakhele, settlement of Sídi Makhmúd, of the Zenágha.

4th. Dundumúlli; few settlers.

5th. Sélefél, village of Fulbe.

6th. Tektáket, all along the valley Mesíla or Meshíla, which rans to the Senegal. 7th. Yóra, village or town of Fulbe, Aswánek, and Arabs dwelling together.

8th. Abólli, a hamlet of Arabs, Welád Wési, and Fullán Rungábe, under the chiefs 'Omár Weled Bú-Séfi. Wádi Mangol. Few mountains.

9th. Swéna, a hamlet of Fulbe, with a few Arabs.

10th. Nahál; one day E. of the town Butti.

11th. Báyajám, a small hamlet of Fulbe Rungabe and Hel Módin Alla.

12th. Tíshi, small hamlet.

13th. Melge, large village inhabited by Fulbe and Hel Módin Alla.

14th. Village of Chermo-Makkam, who died some time before, when his son, Baidal Chermo succeeded him.

15th. Dár Saláme, now Aswánek, formerly Hel Módin Alla.

16th. Kídibíllo, a small hamlet. Aswánek.

17th. Nénechó. Aswánek.

18th. Waigílle, a middle-sized place of Aswánek. Country level, small hills, many trees, especially the kuddi. Always along the valley Mangol or Mesíla. 19th. Kábu, large place of Aswánek, on the point where the Mesíla joins the Senegal.

20th. Láni, considerable place of Aswánek, on the S. side of the river, which you

cross.

21st. Kotéra, a village of Aswánek close to Senegal.

22d. Guchubel (Gutube of the French), the point where the Falémé joins the Senegal. On the opposite side lies Yogúnturó.

23d. Arúndu, a village of Aswánek, having crossed the Falémé.

24th. Yáferé, on the Senegal.

25th. Golme, Aswánek under Bundu.

26th. Guri 'l haire, Aswánek.

27th. Bakel.

Even beyond Bakel, toward Kahaide, the seats of the Aswánek, Cheddo, or Wakoré extend as far as the isolated mountain Waunde, which lies on the N.E. shore, and that is evidently the reason of this tract on the N. bank of the Senegal being called Gangara or Wángara, the country of the Wakoré.

N.B.-The routes from Wadán and I'jil to Sakiet el Hamrah, of which I have collected an itinerary, I refrain from communicating, as they have been in some measure superseded by Panet's route. (Revue Coloniale, 1851.)

ARAB TRIBES IN BA'GHENA.

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APPENDIX XI.

LIST OF THE ARAB OR MOORISH TRIBES SCATTERED OVER THE WESTERN PART OF THE DESERT, ACCORDING TO THE DISTRICTS OR NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE DESERT IN WHICH THEY ARE SETTLED.

The original inhabitants of these regions, at least since the middle of the eighth century of our era, were the Berbers, especially the Zenágha, or Senhaja; but these tribes, since the end of the fifteenth century, it would seem, have been pushed back and partly conquered by the Arab tribes to the south of Morocco and Algeria, who either intermingled with them or reduced them to a degraded position. Thus there are especially four classes of tribes: the free warlike tribes, 'Arab, or Harár; the Zuwaye, or peaceable tribes; the Khóddemán, or Lahme, identical in the southwestern quarter with the Zenágha, the degraded tribes; and the Hárratín, or the mixed stock. The characteristic feature of these Moorish tribes is the guffa, or full tuft of hair; that of the Zenágha the peculiar fashion of wearing the hair called gatáya, as they cut the hair on both sides of the head, and leave nothing but a crest on the crown, from whence a single tress hangs down sometimes to their very feet, or they tie the ends round their waist.

The supposed ancestor of the Moorish tribes is Odé ben Hassan ben A'kil, of the tribe of the Rátafán, who is supposed to have come from Egypt.

I. ARAB TRIBES IN BAGHENA.

The Welád Mebárck (sing. Mebárki), divided into the following sections: A hel 'Omár Welád 'Alí, A'hel Hennum (c' Shikh).

Fáta, separated into the following divisions: Welád Monún, Welád Dokhanán, A'hel Bu Séf.

Fúnti, separated into the following divisions: Welád Hammu el kohol, A ́hel Hammu el biadh, A ́hel Múmmu, A ́hel Sídi Ibrahím, Welád Zenághi, A ́hel 'Omár Shemáti.

The following tribes are in a state of dependence upon them, or are, as it is called, their lahme, or their khóddemán: Idábuk, Ifoléden, A ́hel 'Abd el Wahed, El Hárretín (no proper name), El Mehajeríyín, these only partly degraded, Yadás; Welád el 'Alía, Á'hel A'hmed Hennún, whose khóddemán are the following tribes: El Rowasil, Welád Sálem, Basím, I'shalan, Welád Bille (the brethren of the Welád Bille in Tishít, formerly Arabs, that is to say, free independent Arabs, but at present khóddemán, paying however only the medáriye, and not the keráma), El 'Abedát, A'hel Udéka.

Next to the large group of the Welád Mebárek are the Welád Mazúk, living in the ksúr together with the Welád 'Omár.

Then the E'rmetát and the Náj; while in a degraded state are El Shebahín and El Habásha.

This is the place to mention a particular group or confederation of warlike tribes called "El Imgháfera," or Megháfera, and consisting of the Welád el 'Alía, Fáta, Abedát, Welád Mazuk, A ́hel e' Zenaghi, A ́hel 'Omar Shemáti.

I a. ZUWAYE, OR MERÁBETÍN, IN BÁGHENA.

The Teghdáust, a mixed tribe, but considered as Arabs: the Edésan, Gelágema, Idú Belál in Baghena as well as in El Hódh, Tafulálet, said to have nothing in common with Tafilélet.

Gesíma, living partly in Baghena partly in El Hódh, and divided into the following sections: Welád Táleb, Idáw-'Esh, Welád 'Abd el Melek, Ténagít, El Arusíyín (a tribe very powerful in ancient times, to whom belonged Shenan el Arúsi, the famous despot of Waláta and Tezúght), E' Nwazír, A ́hel Táleb Mohammed.

Tenwaijío, who collect the gum and bring it to the European settlements, separated into the following divisions: A'hel Yíntit, Ijáj Burke, A ́hel Bábá, A ́hel Ibrahim e' Shiukh (held in great veneration).

These four divisions live in Bághena, while the two following are scattered over the district called Ergebe, where the Tenwaijío are very numerous: Welád Delém ma intis (sic), Welád Bu Mohammed.

Zemárik, separated into numerous divisions: Welád Músa, El Horsh, El Hárebát, Jewaule, El Mekhainze, Ardel, Welad Shéfu, El A'thamín, Welad Aleyát, A'hel Dombi, A'hel 'Abd (these the Shiúkh), A'hel e' Shegér, Welad e' Dhıb, E' Zemárik (properly so called), very numerous.

Between Baghena and Tagánet live the Welád Lighwézi, the relatives, but likewise the enemies of the Welad Mebárek.

II. MOORISH TRIBES IN EL HÓDH.

El Hódh is a large and extensive district, which has received this name, "the basin," from the Arabs, on account of its being surrounded by a range of rocky hills, "El Kódia," at the western foot of the eastern extremity of which lies Waláta, and near its southern foot Tishit, both of which belong to El Hódh. The N. E. part of this district, which some centuries ago was densely covered with small towns and villages, stretching from half a day S. from Waláta to a distance of about three days, and being inclosed on the W. and E. by "ellib" or light sand-hills, is called A'rik, and is rich in wells, among which the following are the best known: El Kedaye, Unkusa, Bú-il-gedúr, Nejám, A'we-tofén, El Imbediyát, El Mebdúya, Bú'Ash, Rájat, Teshimmamet, Tekifti, Nwaiyár, Tanwallit, and not far from it Aréngis el telliye and Aréngis el gibliye, Tunbuske, N. from the large well Nwal, mentioned above, El Bedd'a Ummi e' Dúggemán, &c.

na.

From A'rik, S.W. as far as Mesila, extends the district called Ajaúmera, to which belongs the famous well El U'ggela, called "surret el Hódh," on account of its being at an equal distance, viz., five days, from Tishít, Waláta, Tagánet, and BagheBesides these, some of the most famous wells of this district are Ajwér, almost at its northern extremity, Fógis, Bú-Derge, Bír el Hawáshar, Ajósh, Gunnëu, El Be'adh, these latter near Ergébe. The N. border of El Hódh, stretching along the base of the kódia between Waláta and Tishít, is called El Batn. There are besides several districts in El Hódh called Aukár, a Berber name identical with A ́kela, and meaning a waterless district consisting of isolated sand-hills. One Aukár, perhaps that meant by El Bekrí in his description of Ghánata, lies a short distance west from Waláta, near Tezúght; another district of this name lies between Tistit and Mesila, to the north of Ajaúmera. I now proceed to enumerate the tribes settled in El Hódh.

The A'gelál, in several sections, viz. :

Welád A ́hmed, subdivided into the following divisions or "lefkhát:" Ahel Táleb Jiddu, A ́hel Khalifa, A'hel A'hmed e' Taleb, A'hel Taleb Sídi Ahmed, Wed (sic) Yebúi, Welád Sídi (El Kóbetát, A ́hel Malúm, A ́hel Isma'ail, the Soltana, El A'mera).

Welad Musa, subdivided as follows: Welád Háj 'Abd e' Rahmán, Welád Háj el Amín, Welád Músa, properly so called.

Welad Melek, subdivided: A'hel 'Abd-Alláhi Weled Taleb Ibrahim, A hel Háj A'hmedu, A'hel Boghádíje.

The Welád Mohammed of Waláta, in several sections, of whom a great part originates from Tishit, while the sheikh family belongs originally to the Bidukel. Their present chief is 'Alí Weled Nawári el Kuntawi, whose mother is the daughter of the Sheikh of the Legás: A'hel Tíki, Welád Legás e' Shiukh, Lemwalish. Welád e' dhib, Targálet, Derágela (belonging originally to the Brákena), Welád el Mojur, Welad el horma, Sekákena, A'hel e' Taleb Mustuf (a family of "tolba"), I'de Músa, Welád Aili, Welád Ahí, Welád Sékie, Lúkarát.

The Welád e' Násir, very powerful, and divided into the following sections: Welád 'Abd el Kerím Weled Mohammed el M'atúk, with Bakr Weled Senébe as their chief.

Welad Mas'aud Weled M'atúk, subdivided: El A'yasát, El I'kemámera, Berarsha, Ghéraber, A'hel Músa (the Shiukh, with the powerful chief 'Othmán el Halab). Welád Yahia Weled M'atúk.

Welád Mohammed Weled M'atúk.

The J'afera, the "jim" pronounced like the French j in jour.

The 'Atarís, here and in Baghena.

The Ijumán, divided into several sections, of which I only learned the names of three: Ijumán el 'Arab, I'jumán e' tolbu, A ́hel Mohammed.

The Mésheduf, not independent, and, as it seems, of almost pure Berber origin, and a section of the Limtúna, being most probably identical with the Masufa, a Berber tribe so often mentioned by the Arab writers, such as El Bekrí, E'bn Batu

TRIBES IN TAGA'NET.

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ta, &c., as settled between Síjílmésa and Timbuktu. They are divided into several sections: Lahmennád, Welád Mahám, Ujenábje, and others, as the Welád Yo'aza. The Lághallál, a considerable tribe, divided into five khomais.

III. MOORISH TRIBES IN TAGÁNET.

Tagánet is a large and well-favored district, bordering toward the E. and S.E. on El Hódh, or rather the kódia encircling and forming El Hódh; toward the S.W., where there is a considerable group of mountains, bordering on Aftót, by which it is separated from Fúta, and toward the W. or W.N.W. separated from A ́derar by ranges of hills running parallel to each other, called “e' dhelóa,” or "the ribs." Taganet-evidently a Berber name, contrasting as a correlative with the name A'gan-is divided by nature into two distinct regions, viz., Tagánet el káhela, or Black Tagánet, comprehending the southern part of it, and consisting of fertile valleys, full of palm-trees, nebek, &c., excellent for the breeding of cattle and sheep, but infested by numbers of lions and elephants, while it is fit for the camel only in the dry season; and Tagánet el bédha, White Tagánet, called in Azéríye, or the language of Tishít, "Gér e' kulle," consisting of white desert sand, with excellent food for the camel, and with plantations of palm-trees in a few favored spots, which contain the villages or ksúr.

Of these there are three:

Tejígja, four days W.N. W. from Tishít, inhabited by the Idáw 'Alí and the Ghalli.

Rashid, one day from Tejígja, W.N.W., in the possession of the Kunta.

Kasr el Barka, the most considerable of the three, two days W.S.W. from Tejígja, and three days from the mountain pass Nufni, which gives access to it by way of Aftót, likewise inhabited by the Kunta, who are the traveling merchants of this part of the desert, and supply Shinghít and all those quarters.

Besides these three ksúr, there is, at the distance of one day from Tejígja and three days from Tishit, another plantation of date-trees, but without a ksar, called El Gobbu or El Kubba from the sanctuary of a Weli of the name of 'Abd-Allah, and belonging to the Idaw 'Alí.

As for the Arab tribes not settled in the ksúr, but wandering about in Tagánet, there are first to mention :

The Zenágha, or Senhája, or Idáw-'Aísh, a mixed Berber tribe, who form a conspicuous group in the history of this part of Africa, and have been the principal actors also in the destruction of the empire of the Rumá or Ermá. They are at present divided into several sections, all called after the sons and grandsons of Mohammed Shen, a fanatic man, who arose among this tribe a little more than a century ago and usurped the chieftainship. His eldest son, Mohammed, who succeeded him, left at his death the office of chief vacant, when there arose a sanguinary civil war between his brother Mukhtar, whose partisans were called Sheratít, and his eldest son, Swéd A ́hmed, and his party, who were called Abakák, from the red fruits of the talha, on which they were obliged to subsist. The latter, having at length gained the upper hand, killed all his uncles, and was succeeded after his death by his son Bakr, who is ruling at the present time. The chief of the Sheratít is E' Rasul Weled 'Alí Weled Mohammed Shen.

Hel 'Omar Weled Mohammed Shén, the Soltana kabíla of the Zenágha, subdivided as follows: Hel 'Alí Bábá Weled 'Omár, Bú-Bakr Weled 'Omár, Rasul Weled 'Omár, Hel 'Ali Weled Mohammed Shén, A ́hel Swéd (this is the strongest of the divisions of the Zenágha), A ́hel Resul Weled Alimbugga, Hel Bakr Weled Mohammed Shén, A'hel Resul Weled Mohammed Shén.

Besides these, there are also the sons of Mohammed e' Sghír, viz.: Mohammed, Mukhtar, Bú-Séf, 'Alí, Sídi el Amín, Hennún, who have given their names to various sections of the great tribe of the Zenágha. In consequence of their intestine feuds, however, this tribe has sunk from the first rank which they occupied among all the Arab tribes; for, though decidedly of Berber origin, they are yet considered as Arabs, owing to the tongue which they now speak.

The Kunta, part of this widely-scattered tribe distinguished by their learning and their sanctity, and divided, as far as they live in Taganet, into the following sections:

Welád Bu-Séf (the most warlike tribe of the Kunta).

Welád Sidi Bú-Bakr.

Welád Sídi Haiballa (properly Habíb-Alláhi), subdivided: El Nogúdh, Welád el

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