Champagóre.-Architecture.-Mohammed Galaijo.-His Residence.-His for-

mer State. His new Settlement.-His Court.-The Gurma and the Songhay.—

Songhay Towns.-Torrent Górebi.-Champaláwel and its Governor.-Gúro Ca-

ravan.- Smelting Furnaces.-Bangapelle.- Elephant Traces.- Bosebángo.—

River Sírba.—Frail Raft.-Smoking Disposition.—Mode of carrying Water.-

Country beyond the River.-Bundóre.-Denga.-Fine Timber for Boat-building.

-Sebba, Capital of Yágha.-Description of Huts.-Reception by Governor.-

Provisions.-Holiday.-The Kádhi.......

CHAPTER LXI.

..Page 179

PROVINCE OF LIBTÁKO.-SOUTHEASTERN LIMIT OF THE RANGE OF THE COMMERCE

OF TIMBUKTU.

Plenty of Water-courses.—Character of Country.—Namantúgu.—The Arab from

the West.—Wandering Fulbe.-Tumpénga, and reformatory Struggle.—Unhos-

pitable Reception.-Dóre, Capital of Libtáko.-Importance of Market of Dóre.—

Difficulty of supplying my Wants.—Mósi Traders.—Drought.—Anarchy.—Vari-

ous Names of Dóre.-Interesting Relations of Water Communication.-Political

Situation.-Delay.-News from Timbuktu.-Unlucky Fate of a Letter....... 197

CHAPTER LXII.

UNSETTLED PROVINCES OBSTRUCTED BY NATURE AND INFESTED BY MAN.-ÁRIBÍN-

DA.-HOMBORI.

Uncertain Distance from Timbuktu.-Departure from Dóre.—The Ponds, or "Wén-

du."-Providentially detained in Wulu.-Numerous Sheets of Water.-Difficult

Water-course.-Serious Encounter.-Crossing a Swamp.-A'ribínda.-Fíliyo, a

Songhay Village.-Independent Character of Inhabitants.- Tínge. - Ground-

plan of Dwelling.-Character of Inhabitants.-Habits of Industry.-Heavy Rains.

-Caillie's Kissour.-Fulbe Cattle-breeders.-Hómbori.-The Black Worm.—

Kubo.-District Tondi.-Craftiness of El Waláti.-March of Red Worms.-Iso-

lated Mounts.-Native Dwellings.-Dúna.-Governor of Dalla.-Mundóro.-

Curious Thatchwork.-Hómbori Range.-Variety of Huts of I'sayé.-Approach

Hómbori Mountains.-Castellated Mounts.-Bóne........

CHAPTER LXIII.

207

IMÓSHAGH OR TAWÁREK ENCAMPMENTS SOUTH OF THE NIGER.-LAKES AND BACK-

WATERS OF THE GREAT RIVER.

Visit Encampment.-Tawárek Tents and Comforts. -A Cascade.-Apparel.-Con-

duct of El Waláti.-District of Imeggélelé.-Native Horse-dealers.-Bélé, Chief

of the Haw-n-A'dak.-Tawárek Women and Boys.-Presents.-Camels knock-

ed up.-District of Mínta.-Bámbara or Hudári.-Its Importance.-Personal

Relations.-The Méhedí expected.-The Chief Somki.......

CHAPTER LXIV.

235

THE NETWORK OF CREEKS, BACKWATERS, AND LAKES BELONGING TO THE NIGER.-

SARAYÁMO.-NAVIGATION TO KÁBARA.

Creek of Bámbara.-Character of Bámbara.-Great Heat.-Indiscreet Inquiries.-

Lake Nyéngay.-Character of Country.-Somki's Camp.-Mohammed Bonyá-

mi.-Town of Sarayámo.-Various Performances.-Embark on the Creek.-

Character of Creek.-Good Fish.-Very winding Course.-Wide open Branch.-

Animated Scenery.-Town of Banay.-Island of Kóra.-Sanyáre.-Enter the

principal Branch of Niger.-Majestic Scenery

249

CHAPTER LXV.

ARRIVAL AT KÁBARA.-ENTRANCE INTO TIMBÚKTU.

Tásakal.-Koróme.-Large Number of Boats.-Branch of Koróme.-Arrival at

Kábara.-Description of Kábara.-The Inspector of the Harbor.-Unwelcome

Visitors.-Interview with Sídi A ́lawáte.—Approach to Timbúktu.—Momentous

Meeting.-Entrance into Timbúktu.........

CHAPTER LXVI.

Page 269

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY AND TIMBUKTU.

A'hmed Bábá, the Historian.-His Authority.-Origin of Timbuktu.-Form of

Name.-Sonni 'Alí.-Háj Mohammed A'skíá.-Condition of Songhay Empire.

-List of Provinces.-Power of the Governors.-Despotic Rule.-Heir Appa-

rent.-Political Condition of Songhay.-Intercourse with Egypt.-Commerce.-

Army.-The Rumá.-Political Situation of Timbuktu.-Latest Events...... 281

CHAPTER LXVII.

FIRST MONTH OF RESIDENCE IN TIMBUKTU.

Awkward Position.-Presents to Sídi A'lawáte.-View of the Town.-Caillie's

Sketch.-Purchase of Calico.-The Name for Cotton mentioned by El Bekrí.—

First Trial.-Firmer Position.-Different Meaning of Words in different States

of Society.-Letter to El Bakáy.-My own Quarters.-False Prospects of Home

Journey.-First Interview with the Sheikh.-Major Laing.-Presents.-Illness.

-Orders from Hamda - Alláhi.- Intrigues successfully overcome.

Watch.......

-

- Night's

299

CHAPTER LXVIII.

FIRST RESIDENCE IN THE DESERT.-POLITICAL COMBINATIONS.-GREAT MOSQUE.

GROUND-PLAN OF THE TOWN.

Leave the Town.-The Camp.-Political Schemes.-Attempt at Proselytism.—

Return to Town.-Movements of the Fulbe.-Annoying Circumstances.-Ex-

cursion to Kábara.-Note on the Royal Residence in Hamda-Alláhi.-A few

Palm-trees.-The Great Mosque.—Ground-plan of the Town.-Circumference.-

Wall. The different Quarters of the Town.-Inhabitants.-Another Stay in the

Camp.-Sand-eating.-Private Life in Camp.-Tediousness of Position..... 315

CHAPTER LXIX.

POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY.—DANGEROUS CRISIS.

Interruption of Caravan Trade.-The Tájakánt.-Position of the Fulbe in relation

to the Berber Tribes.-Dangerous Situation.-Officer sent from Hamda-Alláhi

to catch me.-Host repulsed.-Letter from Hamda-Alláhi.-Interview with the

Chief of the Tademékket.—Knowledge is Power.-Presents.-Large Troop of

Bérabísh Horsemen.-Letter and News from Europe.-Hostile Gathering.—

Leave Town again.-An Embassy.-Return to Town.-A'wab's Account of

Mungo Park.-Letter of Franchise.-Momentous Death of the Chief of the Bé-

rabísh, 'Alí Weled 'Abéda.—Out to the Camp.-Chanting in the Desert.—

Christian and Mohammedan Principles.-The Inundation.-Stream of running

Water in the Desert.—State of Trade.—Small Tájakánt Caravan.--Close of the

Year

330

BEGINNING OF THE NEW YEAR.-ANOMALOUS RISING OF THE NIGER.-COMMERCIAL

RELATIONS OF TIMBUKTU.

Cheering Prospects at the Beginning of the Year.-Material Existence.-Unrea-

sonable Dispute about a Point of religious Controversy.-Embarrassing Circum-

stances.-Anomalous Rising of the River.-The Phenomenon explained.-High

State of the Waters.-Machinations of the Merchants from Morocco.-Mysteri-

ous Attack of Sickness.-Rainy Days in January.-Departure put off.-Demon

Principle of the Mohammedans.-Small Loan.-Commercial Relations.-Man-

ufactures limited.-Leather Work.-Specimens.-No Weaving.-Foreign Com-

merce.-Gold.-Gold and Salt.-Species and Prices of Salt.-Salt and Gúro

Nuts.-Points in the Trade of Guro Nuts.-Cotton Manufactures in former Times.

-Provisions.-Caravans from the North.-Exaggerated Accounts.-Articles of

European Commerce.-Important Position of Timbuktu .

CHAPTER LXXI.

DIARY CONTINUED.

Page 347

My Informants.-Continued Disappointment.-Family Reason of Delay.-Leave

again for the Tents.-Merits of the Prophets.-Books sent out to Central Africa.

-Arrival of Sídi Mohammed.-Hammádi.-Family Concerns.-Another Arrival

from Ghadámes.-Unlucky Fate of a Parcel.—The Waters subside.—Indications

of a political Storm.-Arrival of another Officer from Hamda-Alláhi.-Protest

of the Brothers.-A sleepless Night.-Interesting Episode.-The Kél-ulli... 369

CHAPTER LXXII.

GREAT CRISIS.-OBLIGED TO LEAVE THE TOWN.-MILITARY DEMONSTRATION.

The Tabu or great Army of the Awelímmiden.-Who is a Moslim?-Celebration

of the Sebúwa.-The Gwanín.-The Kél-hekíkan.-Political Crisis.-Hasty

Proceedings.-Warlike nightly Manoeuvres.-March of the Tábu arrested.—

Camp Inconveniences.-Political Meeting at the Ródha.-Consultation of the

Brothers.-Policy of the Fulbe.-Further Difficulties.-Life in the Camp.-The

Gwanín again.-Turbulent State of the Country.-Presents.-Intrigues.-Na-

tive Estimate of Europeans.—General political Relations..

CHAPTER LXXIII.

ABORTIVE ATTEMPT AT DEPARTURE FROM TIMBÚKTU.

381

Setting out from Bóse-bángo.-Tawárek Encampments.- Amalélle.-Camp of

the Kel-n-Nokúnder at Ernésse.-Hospitality of the Kél-ulli.-Camp of the Ta-

rabanása.-Relations of various Chiefs.-Taútilt and the Chief Wóghda.-The

Welád Moluk.-The chivalrous Wóghdugu.

CHAPTER LXXIV.

RETROGRADE MOVEMENT TOWARD TIMBUKTU.

403

The Rebel Chief Akhbi.-Quarrel of the Igwádaren.-Return westward.-Berber

and Canaanitic Names.-Swamps and Rains.-A Camp in Motion.-Lady Trav-

elers.-The Kinsman of Sául.-Exciting News.-Relations with the French.—

Parting with Kúngu.-The Camp at Ernésse again.-Downs of Ule-Teharge.—

A friendly Chat.-Return of Servants from Town.-News from Timbuktu.. 413.

CHAPTER LXXV.

FINAL AND REAL START.-CREEKS ON THE NORTHERN BANK OF THE NIGER.-

GHÉRGO.-BÁMBA.

Real Start.-Leave Ule-Tehárge.-A welcome Parcel.-Gigantic Retem.-Fe-

males of the Welád Moluk.-Peaceable Tolba.-Wild Hog.-Zangway.-The

Creeks.-E'm-n-kúris.-Tamizgída.-Ghérgo.-Hospitality of the Kél-antsár.—

Crossing Creeks.-Approach to Bamba.-Scenery of the River.-The Rumá.-

Smoking. The Cocks of Bamba.- Sídi Mohammed's Family.- Scarcity of

Supplies.......

CHAPTER LXXVI.

Page 431

THE DESERT.-COUNTRY ALONG THE BORDER OF THE RIVER.-GREATEST NARROW-

ING. SOUTHEASTERLY BEND.

A Night March through Swamps.—Terárart, northernmost Creek of the Niger.—
"Tahónt-n-éggish."-Various Personalities.-The Chief Sadáktu.-Hot Camp-
ing-ground.-A poisonous Spider.-Encampment of Sídi Ilemín.-Beginning of
the rocky District.-Tin-sherífen.-The Kél e' Súk.-Tawárek Ladies.-The
River at Tin-sherífen.—Rocks in the River.-Cry of the young Zangway.... 448

CHAPTER LXXVII.

TÓSAYE, OR THE NARROWING OF THE RIVER.—BURRUM; ANCIENT RELATION TO

EGYPT.-GREAT SOUTH-SOUTHEASTERLY REACH.

Incident in African Warfare.-Island of A'dar-n-Háut.-Burrum.-Intercourse

with Egypt.-Slow Progress.-Intercourse by Water between Gógó and Bámba.

—River between steep Cliffs.-Morals of the Kél e' Súk.—The Tin-ger-E’ge-

desh.-Curiosity of the Women.-Mount Tóndibi.-Appearance of our Party.-

Swampy District Abuba.-The Ibawajiten.-Great Breadth of the River.-First

Sight of Gógó.—Appearance of Industry...............

CHAPTER LXXVIII.

461

THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF SONGHAY, AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.

Gógó and Timbuktu.-General Description of Gógó.-Rich Vegetation.-The

Mosque.-Meeting of native Chiefs.-Khozématen and Hanna.-The Gú-béro.—

Their Hospitality. - Encamp in Barno. - Hippopotami. Return to Gógó.

Preparations to leave Gógó.-Arrival of the Chief Thákkefi.—His Proposal.—

Survey of the River.......

-

479

CHAPTER LXXIX.

SEPARATION FROM THE SHEIKH.-CROSS THE RIVER TO THE SOUTHWESTERN SIDE.

-VARIOUS ENCAMPMENTS.-RIVER STUDDED WITH ISLANDS.-ANSÓNGHO.

Separation from the Sheikh.-Bornu-gungu.—The Gá-bíbi.—Unsettled Districts.—

Tóngi.-Barbarous Custom.-A'dar-andúrren.-Island Ansóngho.-Iron Gates

of Akarámby.-Rocky Character of River.-Burre.-Fulbe Settlers.-Rapids.-

Tiboráwen.-Wild Scenery.-The I'melíggizen.-Island Kátubu.-A River Ar-

chipelago.-Wild River Scenery at E'm-n-íshib.-Parting with Mohammed the

Kél e' Suki

CHAPTER LXXX.

494

DENSER POPULATION BEGINS.

Difficulty of determining the Water-courses.-Granite Boulders.-Ayóru and its

Cultivation. Kendáji and its Chief.-A fertile District.-Camp of Erátafáni.—

Doubtful Escort.-Rocky Nature of River-bed.-Sinder, the Corn Market.-State

of Hánsa.-Date Palms.-Mohammed Saleh.-Rich Country.-A'zemay.--First

Hausa Salute.-The Kortíta.-The River Sirba.-Wántila.-An alarming Ad-

venture.-Cotton Plantations.-Bírni.-Island of Bé-gungu.-Margin and Cliffs

of the River.-Arrival at Say.........

CHAPTER LXXXI.

Page 508

SECOND RESIDENCE IN SAY.-JOURNEY THROUGH DÉNDINA AND KEBBI.

Audience with the Governor.-Market of Say.-Inundated State.-Leave Say.-

Tanna.-Mínge.-Támkala and its reduced Condition.-Audience with A'bú el

Hassan.-His Position.—A Háusa Nobleman.-Friendly Reception in Gárbo.—

A Storm.-Town of Kalliyul.-Isolated Specimens of the Oil Palm.-Debe.-

Pernicious Effect of Water.-Town of Tilli.-Sickness of Señi.-The swampy

Gulbi-n-Sokoto.-Birni-n-Kebbi.-Swampy Valleys.-Jéga.-Cheering Recog-

nition.-Arrival at Gando..........................

CHAPTER LXXXII.

SECOND STAY IN GANDO, SÓKOTO, AND WURNÓ.

534

Awkward Fate of a Letter.-Abundance of Rains.-Leaving Gando.-Variety of

Vegetation.-Effect of Rains.-Arrival at Sókoto.-Unofficial News of Vogel's

Party. Swollen Torrent of Sókoto.-Kind Reception at Wurnó.-State of In-

security.—Prices of Market.—Present from 'Alíyu.—Sickness.—Sad Condition

of Negroland.-Leave taking.-New Route.-Gulbi-n-Rába.-Long March to

Gandi. Another long March.-Moríki.-Dúchi.-Town of Kámmané.-Another

unsafe Wilderness.-Take Leave of Ghaladíma.-Arrival in Kanó............ 553

CHAPTER LXXXIII.

SECOND RESIDENCE IN KANÓ, UNDER UNFAVORABLE CIRCUMSTANCES.-MARCH TO

KÚKAWA.

Financial Difficulties.-Sickness of my Horses.-Want of Information.-Varying

News from Kúkawa.-Disappointing News from Zínder.-Letter to 'Aliyu.-Un-

profitable Letters.-Forced Loans.-Final Arrangements.-Leaving Kanó.-As-

pect of Country.-Kind Treatment at Gída-n-Alla.-The Thieves of Gírki.-Re-

duced State of Gummel.-Last Meeting with Mohammed e' Sfáksi.-Departure

from Gummel.—Máshena.-Meeting with Mr. Vogel.—Great disappointment.—

Zurrikulo.-"Búne Kayérda S'aíd.”—Dáway.—Kinjéberi.—Various Branches

of the Komádugu

............

573

CHAPTER LXXXIV.

LAST RESIDENCE IN KUKAWA.—BENEFIT OF EUROPEAN SOCIETY.—UNPLEASANT

CIRCUMSTANCES.

Arrangements with Mr. Vogel.-Departure of Mr. Vogel.-Attack of Rheumatism.

-Abortive Plan of Departure from Kúkawa.-Re-enter the Town.-Arrival of a

Caravan.-News from Mr. Vogel........
.... 592

CHAPTER LXXXV.

REAL START.-SMALL PARTY.

My Camels. Real Start.-First Day's March.-Kánembú Hamlets.-Ngégimi.-
Small Alarm.-Treatment of Slaves.-The Well Bedwáram and Macguire's
Death.-Desert of Tintumma.-A'gadem.-Fatigue in the Desert.-Crystallized