TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

IN

NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA.

BEING A

JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION

UNDERTAKEN

UNDER THE AUSPICES OF H. B. M.'S GOVERNMENT,

IN THE YEARS

1849-1855.

BY

HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L.,

FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES,
&c., &c.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. III.

NEW YORK:

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,

FRANKLIN SQUARE.

1859.

CONTENTS

DT351
B3
1896
v. 3

ANTHROP.
LIBRARY

OF

THE THIRD VOLUME.

CHAPTER LIII.

DEPARTURE FOR TIMBÚKTU.-THE HILLY NORTHWESTERN PROVINCES OF BÓRNU.

My Situation at the Death of Mr. Overweg.-Pecuniary Circumstances.-Inroad of

the Tawárek.—Take Leave of the Sheikh.-Projects.-My Servants.-The two

freed Africans.-The Méjebri.-Encampment in Kalíluwá.-Great Cold.—Suwa

Búwa.-District of Koyam.-The old Inhabitant of Birni.-Fertile Districts.-

The farming Village.-The Drain of the Komádugu.-Fractions of Tribes.-

Character of the Komádugu.-Fulbe Cattle-breeders.-Site of Ghasréggomo.-

The Ruins.-The Komádugu at Zéngiri.-Considerable Current.-Province of

Manga.-Manga Warriors.-Manga Females.-Borzári.-The Bedde and their

Komádugu.-Meeting with Mohammed ben Ahmed.-Daring Theft.-Wall of

Gesma.-Immense Ant-hills.-Donárí.-Reach again Zurríkulo.......... Page 17

CHAPTER LIV.

THE MOUNTAINOUS TERRITORY OF MÚNIYÓ AND ITS GOVERNOR.

Busy Scene at Ngárruwa.—Well of Berbéruwá.—Notice of Auyók.—Chelúgiwá.—

Natron Lake of Búne.-New and Old Búne.-Conflagration.-Peculiar Charac-

ter of Muniyó.-Palm-grove of Túnguré.-View of Gure.-Estate of Múniyóma.

-Audience with Múniyóma.—His Character.-Slave Hunting.-Site of Gúre.-

Peculiar Site of Wushek.-Sacred Site of Gábatá.-District of Keléno.-The

Natron Lake or A'bye.-Lakes of Badamúni.—Plan of the Oasis of Badamúni.

-Varied Vegetation.-Fresh Lake and Natron Lake.-Survey of the Lake.-

Governor of Badamúni.-Mírriya, a favored Locality.-Character of Zinder.-

Ground-plan of Zinder.-Importance of the Town.-Pecuniary Supplies...... 43

CHAPTER LV.

DEPARTURE FROM ZÍNDER.-THE BORDER REGION BETWEEN THE BÓRNU AND THE

FULFULDE EMPIRES.-SECOND STAY IN KÁTSENA.

Line of Route.-Highway Robbers less to be feared than rapacious Governors.—

An old Acquaintance.-Unusual Mode of drawing Water.-Conspicuous Valley,

with dense Grove of Dúm Palms.-Gazawa again.-The Ex-governor and rebel

Chief Sadíku.-Night's March.-Arrival before Kútsena.-Interview with the

Governor. The Ghaladíma of Sókoto.-New Stores laid in in Kátsena.-The

Fáki 'Abd e' Rahmán.-His Arguments in favor of Polygamy.-Unforeseen Dif-

ficulty. Conduct of the Governor of Kátsena........

76

CHAPTER LVI.

JOURNEY FROM KÁTSENA TO SÓKOTO.

...............

Setting out from Kátsena.-The Dorówa-tree.-Tobacco and Yams.-Great De-

614

tour on account of hostile Army.-Kulkadá.-Kúrayé.-Expeditionary Corps.—

Kúrrefi and its Fortifications.-An agreeable Incident.-Unsafe District.-Town

of Zékka.—Desertion of Servant.-Dangerous Night's March.—Búnka.—Zýrmi.

-State of Zánfara.-Trade with Dodówa Cakes.-Dúchi.-Market of Badará-

wa.-The Zánfaráwa and Góberáwa.-Tribute of Kátsena.-First Rúdu.—San-

sanne 'Aísa.-Night's March through the Wilderness of Gúndumi.-Arrival in

Gáwasú.-First Meeting with 'Aliyu.-Kind Reception.-Presents, how received.

-Letter of Franchise.-Arrival at Wurnó.
...Page 88

CHAPTER LVII.

RESIDENCE IN WURNÓ.

Superior Position of the Fulbe.—Their Origin and Intermixture with other Tribes.

-Different Nationalities absorbed by them.-Their Divisions.-Progress of the

Tribe from the West.-Fulbe in Sixteenth Century.-Rise of Sheikh 'Othmán

the Reformer.-Sultan Bello.-Present State of the Empire.-My Quarters in

Wurnó.-General Character of Wurnó.-Particular Description.-Ground-plan

of Wurnó.-Unsafe State of the Province.-Dread of the Goberáwa.-Gloomy

Prospects for my Journey.-Occupation.-Aspect of the Country.-Captain Clap-

perton's Route.-Fine Valley of Bamúrna.-Excursion to Sókoto.-Appearance

of the Town.-The Syllebawa and their Chief Hámedu.-Clapperton's Death.—

The Valley of Sókoto.-Ground-plan of Sókoto.-Return of the Sultan.-Mu-

sical Presents.-My Friend 'Abd el Káder of A'gades.-Literary Works of 'Abd

Alláhi and Bello.-Death of the Ruler of Másina....

CHAPTER LVIII.

STATE OF INSECURITY ALONG THE MOST FREQUENTED HIGH ROAD.-GANDO.

110

Departure from Wurnó.-Leave Sokoto.-Heavy Rain.-Fields of Yams.—Bodín-

ga.- Dendi.-Shagáli.-Señína.- Character of Gando; Ground-plan.-The

Sultan Khalílu.-Difficult Transactions.—A ́hmed Baba's History of Songhay.—

Climate of Gando.-Extent of Empire..........

CHAPTER LIX.

139

THE PROVINCE OF KEBBI AND ITS RIVER.-THE VALLEY OF FÓGHA.-REACH THE

NIGER.

Leave Gando.-Extensive Rice-grounds.-Kámbasa.-Swampy Valley with Rice-

grounds.-Gaúmaché.-Unsafe State of the Country.-Gúlumbé, rich Vegetation.

-Solitary Pilgrim.-Kardi.-Hausáwa.-Bírni-n-Kebbi.-Situation at the Brink

of the wide swampy Valley.-'Othmán Záki.-Kóla and its Governor.-Júggurú.

-Zogírma and its Governor.-Dangerous Road.-New Companions.-Tilli.-

A Day in the Wilderness.-Site of Bírni-n-Débe.-Dallul Mauri.- Shallow

Vales.-The Valley of Fógha.-The Salt of Fógha.-Character of Fógha Peo-

ple.-Importance of Fógha in Ethnological Respect.—Plenty of Kóla-nuts, but no

Corn.-Unexpected Generosity.-Dense Forest.-A solitary Limtúni.-Bóso.—

Garbo.-Lanadéji.—Peculiar Corn-stacks.-Songhay Farming Hamlets.—Avoid

Támkala.-Short Marches.-Tóndifú.-Reach the Niger.-Aspect of the River.

-Large Canoes.-Town and Market of Say.-State of Market.-Traffic.-Gov-

ernor of Say.-No Songhay Interpreter.....

CHAPTER LX.

THE HILLY COUNTRY OF GURMA.

.............

148

Leave Say.-Low Situation.-Sand-wind and heavy Thunder-storm.--Town of