THE SWAMPY GU'LBI-N-SOʻKOTO.

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under his command, that of Tilli is a mere mayor, without rank or authority. The present governor, whose name is Búba-Sadíki, enjoyed still less authority from personal reasons, as he was prostrated with the same illness which had lamed the Governor of Say. This "señi" or rheumatism, as I have stated on former occasions, is a kind of disease of which every African traveler who exposes himself a great deal during the rainy season, particularly along swampy regions and in leaky boats, is very susceptible. I suffered dreadfully from it after my return to Bórnu.

While the télamíd of the sheikh went in person to the governor in order to alleviate, if possible, his enfeebled state by means of their prayers and blessing, I made him a small present and he sent me some rice in acknowledgment. The little market was tolerably well supplied, and I was very glad to find here, besides sorghum, the large wholesome onions of Gando, and some dodówa, sour milk also being in considerable abundance; and it was interesting to observe how much more cheerful all the inhabitants were under the present circumstances than they had been the previous year. I should have liked very much to have paid my compliments to my friend of Zogírma, in order to see how he was going on after being relieved from a great part of the anxiety which appeared to oppress him the year before; but, fearing the delay, I resolved to make direct from here to Birni-n-Kebbi.

Monday, August 14th. We had heard already on our journey that we had arrived at the very latest time in order to cross, with any degree of safety, the swampy fáddama of the gúlbi-n-Sókoto, which a little later in the season is extremely difficult to pass. At all events, it was very fortunate that no rain had fallen for the last few days, or we should have experienced considerable difficulty in crossing this swampy ground; even as it was, we had to traverse three sheets of water, the first of which was about three feet deep and of considerable breadth, the second forming the real bed of the river, running with a southwesterly bend toward the Kwára, although not so wide as the former, and the third forming a stagnant creek. Having passed some rice-fields, we at length, after a march of little more than three miles, emerged from the swampy bottom of the valley, and ascended rising ground covered with the fine crops belonging to the inhabitants of Diggi, and soon after left the town itself on our right, which, from our former journey, had remained in our remembrance, as we had here been met by the chivalrous sons of the Governor of Zogírma.

Here dukhn and durra were grown promiscuously in the same field, affording a proof that this ground is well adapted for both kinds of cultivation.

Having here fallen into our former road, I hastened on in advance along the well-known path toward Birni-n-Kebbi, which, however, now exhibited a different character, on account of the whole country being covered with tall crops; and turning round the walls of Kóla, we reached the gate of Birni-n-Kebbi. The aspect of this town had likewise undergone an entire change, but not to its advantage; the town, which of itself is narrow, being still more hemmed in by the crops. For the moment, the place had certainly a rather desolate appearance, the greater part of the inhabitants being engaged in an expedition led on by 'Abd el Káderi, or, as he is commonly called, 'Abd el Káderi-ay, a younger brother of Khalílu. As I rode up to the house of the mágaji or governor, Mohammed Lowel, he was just sitting in his parlor with a few of his people, when he, or rather his attendants, having recognized me as his old acquaintance 'Abd el Kerím, came out to salute me in a very cheerful manner. However, the expedition being expected to return the same evening, there was no room for us inside the town, and we were obliged to seek shelter outside, descending the steep and rugged slope to the border of the faddama, where we obtained, with difficulty, quarters for myself in an isolated farm. The hut was extremely small, and full of ants; but the door was provided with a peculiar kind of curtain, made of the leaves of the deléb palm, which, while admitting access, entirely excluded the musquitoes, which infested this place in enor mous quantities. We were well treated by the owner or maigída of the farm, in conformance with the orders which he received from the mágaji, to whom I sent a small present, reminding him of the larger gift which I had given him the preceding year. His hospitality was the more acceptable, as the market was very badly supplied, neither millet nor rice being procurable; sour milk also was extremely dear, as, on account of the crops, and the quantity of water covering the valley, the cattle had been all sent off to a great distance, into the neighborhood of Gando.

Late in the evening the expedition returned, bringing about one hundred head of cattle and thirty slaves whom they had captured from the enemy; but, although the commander of the expedition was to return to Gando himself, I did not like to wait for him, and started early the next morning along our old path, which

GU'LUMBE'.-KO'CHI.-JE’GA.

551

was only distinguished at present by the quantity of water with which it was covered, especially near the village Háusáwa, where the whole shallow bed of the valley formed one sheet of water three feet deep. A good deal of cultivation of rice was at present to be seen. Thus we reached Gúlumbé, where, this time, in consequence of the quantity of rain that had fallen, inundating the ground outside close up to the wall, I took up my quarters inside the town, and obtained tolerably good lodgings, the court-yard being surrounded by a most exuberant growth of vegetation and the finest timber; but the mayor did not treat us quite so well as I expected, although I made him a present of a black shawl. The market here also being badly provided, I had great difficulty in obtaining a sufficient supply of corn for my horse.

We had scarcely left the narrow lanes of the town, with its extraordinary exuberance of vegetation, when the rain set in, so that we were wet both from above and below, the path either leading through tall crops or through pools of stagnant water. The path farther on, according to the information which we collected from people whom we met on the road, being entirely inundated, when we reached that western branch of the fäddama, near the village of Badda-badda, we followed a more southerly direction to the large open village Kóchi, where we intended passing the night. But it was with the utmost difficulty that we obtained lodgings, nor did we experience the least sign of hospitality; and while an immense quantity of rain fell outside, I was greatly tormented by the number of musquitoes, which were insufficiently excluded from my hut by a stiff piece of leather hung before the door.

Thursday, August 17th. As soon as the weather allowed us we left this inhospitable village, and soon afterward entered forest, to which succeeded fine crops of corn. Four miles beyond Kóchi we had to cross a large fáddama full of water, and intersected in the middle by a running stream, bordered by great numbers of water-lilies, and giving us altogether a fair idea of the difficulties attending traveling through this country at the present season of the year. A month later it would be entirely impassable for a European traveler encumbered with any amount of luggage. But the road was tolerably well frequented, and we were met by a long train of broad-shouldered, square-built Núpe females, each with a load of from six to eight enormous calabashes on her head, journeying to the Friday market of Jéga.

This is the important place which, under the command of 'Abd

Here dukhn and durra were grown promiscuously in the same field, affording a proof that this ground is well adapted for both kinds of cultivation.

Having here fallen into our former road, I hastened on in advance along the well-known path toward Birni-n-Kebbi, which, however, now exhibited a different character, on account of th whole country being covered with tall crops; and turning rou the walls of Kóla, we reached the gate of Birni-n-Kebbi. The pect of this town had likewise undergone an entire change, ! not to its advantage; the town, which of itself is narrow, be still more hemmed in by the crops. For the moment, the 1 had certainly a rather desolate appearance, the greater part of inhabitants being engaged in an expedition led on by A Káderi, or, as he is commonly called, 'Abd el Káderi-ay, a▾ er brother of Khalílu. As I rode up to the house of the or governor, Mohammed Lowel, he was just sitting in with a few of his people, when he, or rather his attendant recognized me as his old acquaintance 'Abd el Kerím, to salute me in a very cheerful manner. However, the being expected to return the same evening, there was us inside the town, and we were obliged to seek sl descending the steep and rugged slope to the bord dama, where we obtained, with difficulty, quarters an isolated farm. The hut was extremely small, a but the door was provided with a peculiar kind. of the leaves of the deléb palm, which, while ad: tirely excluded the musquitoes, which infested · mous quantities. We were well treated by the of the farm, in conformance with the orders v from the mágaji, to whom I sent a small pres of the larger gift which I had given him the " hospitality was the more acceptable, as the badly supplied, neither millet nor rice bei milk also was extremely dear, as, on account quantity of water covering the valley, the ca off to a great distance, into the neighborhoo

Late in the evening the expedition ret. one hundred head of cattle and thirty slave tured from the enemy; but, although the pedition was to return to Gando himself, I him, and started early the next morning ale

AND WURNO'.

me this time were at nes. My former guide, ing him whether he had el Káder, in Sokoto, the ve of me at Dóre, he put cap a small leather case, ce of paper, to my utmost 1, "Here is your letter!" the violent rains through and the many rivers and Tole envelope of the letter, Friend in Sókoto, had been nly the English letter, and lyphic, at length returned as a charm. Besides this long, instead of its being > inform my friends of my able piece of information of the huts composing the bsence by a conflagration, behind had in consequence

J

voring once more, in vain, to

and to persuade my companir hopes of a handsome present sent me, if I may attribute the proself, in return for all the presents I black tobe and 3000 shells, although exhausted, and the two camels which I e or less worn out, so that I stood greatly d; but, not wanting any thing besides from hankful that I had passed unmolested through inions on my outward as well as on my homeen protected, as far as his feeble power was able tion.