ROUTE LXXV. 367 PAGE LXXXII. Dresden to Breslau 370 LXXXIII. The RIESENGEBIRGE LXXXIV. The RIESENGEBIRGE DERSBACH Breslau Schweidnitz, Trau tenau, and Prague 377 LXXXV. Breslau to Prague, by Glatz 378 In the next stage, the sequestered Cistercian Abbey Chorin, now a Government building, and several small lakes are passed. 31 Angermünde, on a lake called the Munde, has 3000 inhabitants. A macadamised road goes from hence to Prenzlow. Our road reaches the banks of the Oder at2 Schwedt. Inn: Deutsches Haus. A town of 4600 inhabitants, many of them are descendants of French emigrants, and a portion are Jews. The Royal Palace was originally the residence of a branch of the family of Mark graves of Brandenburg, now extinct. Their summer palace Montplaisir lies at the termination of an avenue two miles from the town. One of the Markgraves and his wife are buried in granite coffins in the French Church. The Oder is here split into two branches; that which passes close to Schwedt is called the Mülitz; there is a bridge over it. The road continues along its left bank, over a heath, and enters the ancient province of Pomerania before reaching 2 Garz. Inn: Schwarzer Adler. On approaching Stettin, a good view is obtained of it, and of the lake of Damm, formed by the Oder spreading out into a broad sheet of water behind it. The road is commanded by the guns of Fort Preussen at the entrance into 4 Stettin. Inns: H. de Prusse, in the Louisen Strasse ;-Drei Kronen. This town, the capital of Pomerania, lies upon the left bank of the Oder, but is connected by bridges with the suburb Lastadie on the right bank. It has 32,000 inhabitants, including the garrison, and is remarkable as a strong fortress and place of considerable commerce, being the outlet for the manufactures of Silesia conveyed down the Oder from Frankfort and Breslau; and the depôt for foreign goods required to supply that province as well as the metropolis of Prussia. In 1834, 814 vessels entered its port, and 842 cleared out. The Churches: the Schloss Kirche contains the tombs of the old Dukes of Pomerania. The Church of St. Peter and Paul is the oldest in the town. From the tower of St. Jacobi, built 1187, there is a fine view of the city and the river. The Schloss, built 1577, is now converted into government offices. The Rathhaus dates from 1245. In the Königsplatz is a marble statue of Frederick the Great, by Schadow. In the Marienplatz is the New Gymnasium, to which an observatory, library, and museum are attached. Two empresses of Russia were born here: Catherine the Great, and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the Emperor Paul. There is a The chief Promenade Theatre here. is the Plantage, outside the Anclam Gate. An English Consul resides at Stettin, The Oder is here divided into four branches. In order to reach the town and fortress of Alt Damm, on the right bank, the road is conducted along a Dam of masonry 43 miles long, over three long and twenty shorter bridges. A capital macadamised post-road is just finished from Stettin to Danzig by Cöslin. The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, discharges itself into a large lake called the Haff; this again communicates with the Baltic by three mouths, which form the two large islands, Usedom, on which lies Swinemünde, and Wollin. A Steam-boat runs three times a week in summer, in 6 or 8 hours, between Stettin and Swinemünde. Inns: that kept by Olthoff;-Deutsches Haus;-König von Preussen. This town, of 3500 inhabitants, has latterly acquired importance from the improvements made in its habour, which have rendered it the outport of Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily very shallow, but extensive works have been erected to remedy this defect, and it is now capable of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 feet water to unload their cargoes, which are transported to Stettin in lighters. Swinemünde stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon an island between it and the salt lake called Stettiner Haff, separated from the main land by the Swine and other mouths or channels through which the Oder empties itself into the sea. About 1 mile from the town, and separated from it by a wood, lie the Sea Baths of Swinemünde, consisting of a Bath-house and an Assemblyroom (Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is a daily table d'hôte dinner at ladies and gentlemen. At the one extremity men are allowed to bathe without bathing-machines or covered cabinets; at the opposite end the females enjoy the same privileges, and between these remote spots are ranged bathing-machines for either sex. Jomsburg, the capital of a Pagan republic, and described by historians as the greatest city of Europe in the 11th century, stood on an island at the mouth of the Oder. Its exact site is not determined. It was upon this island of Usedom, on the 24th of June, 1630, that the Champion of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the shore, he fell on his knees, and after a short prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a spade with his own hand to show them the example. When tidings of this event were brought to the Emperor Ferdinand, he made light of the matter, sarcastically terming the Swedish leader, "a snow-king, who would melt as the summer drew near, and as he advanced towards a more southern climate." The following year 6000 English volunteers (among whom must have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived on this spot to reinforce Gustavus. In the course of the summer, a Steam-boat goes once a week (on Saturday) to the baths of Putbus in the Island of Rügen, from Swinemünde, returning on the Monday following. (Route LXXVI.) ROUTE LXXVI. THE ISLAND OF RUGEN STRALSUND ΤΟ THE BATHS OF PUTBUS, AND BERGEN. Rügen, the largest island belonging to Germany, is situated in the Baltic, separated only by a narrow strait from Prussian Pomerania, in which province it is included. It abounds in romantic scenery, on account of which, and of the advantages of sea-bathing which it affords, it is much frequented in summer by visiters from all parts of Northern Germany. It may be termed a German Isle of Wight, and indeed bears some resemblance to the English Island in the conformation of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it is better wooded, and is further distinguished by the narrow bays or bights which penetrate far inland. The best mode of approaching it is by the steamer, which goes in summer from Swinemünde to Putbus, every Saturday, returning on Monday. There is an excellent carriage road from Stettin, by Anclam, and along the shore of the Baltic, to Greifswald and Stralsund. The road from Rostock to Stralsund is very bad indeed, not yet macadamised; thus the approach to the Island from the W. is difficult in a carriage, and disagreeable. There are two Ferries across the Strait separating Rügen from the mainland: 1. From Stahlbrode, about 12 miles W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer Fähre. At Glewitz the landing place, (24 German miles), conveyances may usually be hired to Putbus, 23 German miles by Garz. 2. From Stralsund by the Alte Fähre, a shorter and safer passage in stormy weather, the strait not being more than a mile broad here; the other ferry is 2 miles. Greifswald (Inn, Deutsches Haus,) is a sea-port town of 8000 inhabitants, possessing a University, founded 1456, which numbers about 200 students. An excellent Government steamer goes twice a week (Sundays and Thursdays), from Greifswald to Ystad in Sweden. The passage takes between 12 and 16 hours. Stralsund (Inn, H. de Brandenburg,) was formerly capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a fortress of great strength. It was ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is situated on the borders of the strait called Gollen, separating Rügen from the mainland. town is entirely surrounded by water, and approachable from the south only by bridges. The Nicolai Kirche is The richly ornamented within, and the view from its tower is remarkable. The Rathhaus was built 1316. It has 17,000 inhabitants. Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier who took up arms in 1808, without authority from his sovereign, in the hope of freeing his country from the French, was shot in attempting a sortie in the Fährstrasse ; a stone marks the spot. The public fountain is named after him, Schillsbrunnen. His body rests in the churchyard, without a monument; his head is in the museum at Leyden. During the thirty years' war (1628), | Stralsund was the place which first checked the career of the hitherto irresistible Wallenstein. He had sworn to take Stralsund, "even though it were fastened by chains to heaven;" vowing vengeance upon the child unborn, when he should gain possession. This impious boast, however, was not destined to be fulfilled, for through the brave defence of its citizens, aided by a party of Scotch mercenaries in the pay of Denmark, he was at last compelled to raise the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men before its walls. In 1715, the town was besieged by the allied army of the Prussians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII., then recently escaped from Turkey, conducted the defence for a considerable time; at length he was obliged to retire, and the town surrendered to Denmark. In going from Stralsund to Putbus, the old Ferry, Altfähre, about a mile broad, is crossed. 2 Garz. Busch's Inn. 1 Putbus. Inns: Count Hahn's, and Schwartz's, are excellent. A bedroom costs 11 sgr.; dinner 12 sgr. Putbus is a watering-place with 700 permanent inhabitants, belonging to the Prince of Putbus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to be the lineal descendant of the ancient Kings of Rügen. His Palace (Schloss) is a handsome Italian edifice, and the principal building in the place. It contains a library, some good paintings, statues, (3 by Thorwaldsen), and a collection of antiquities found in the Island. Adjoining the Palace is the Saloon or dining-room, where there is a daily table d'hôte, and Pavilion containing assembly and music rooms for the use of the visiters; the Theatre, and the New School, opened 1836. Attached to the palace is a delightful Park, with gardens and pleasure grounds open to the public. The Prince's stables contain a very superior stud. A mile from Putbus, on the seashore, is the Badehaus, supplied with warm sea-baths. There are also bathing machines for those who prefer the open sea. The great attraction of Putbus is its beautiful situation near the borders of a bay with an island in front. High wooded banks and long indented promontories shelter it from the Baltic. It bears a miniature resemblance to the Bay of Naples. From the excellent accommodation furnished by the lodging-houses, Putbus is the best head quarters for those who intend to explore the Island. All charges are fixed by printed tariff. The Prince's agent lets out horses and carriages for hire at a moderate charge. The Steamer from Swinemunde lands its passengers on the boat-pier at Lauterbach, a mile from the Baths. Travellers, intending to return by the boat, had better hire for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages waiting on the spot, make with it the excursion round the island, and leave Putbus till their return. The following sketch of a tour round the Island, includes all the most remarkable objects, starting from Putbus to the 1 Jagdhaus (Hunting Lodge.) Prora, on the narrow Isthmus called Schmaler Heide, which unites the promontory Jasmund to the main island. Sagard. Inn: Fürstenkrone. Near this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth. The northernmost extremity of the island Rügen consists of a long narrow peninsula or rather of two peninsulas; that of Jasmund, and beyond it that of Wittow, connected with each other and the main island by two narrow necks of land. The length of this united promontory is about 25 miles. The bay or firth which it encloses, is crossed by one or two ferries, at which carriages and foot passengers can be transferred from one side to the other; thus avoiding the necessity of retracing the same road in returning from Arkona. Beyond Sagard, the road enters the ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here the goddess Hertha (Earth) was worshipped by the Pagan Saxons, and here stood her temple described by Tacitus. It abounds in stone sepulchres called Hunengräber by the peasants, in which skeletons and jars full of bones and ashes have been found. The whole district is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian poetry and mythology. Buried in the recesses of this mysterious grove lies the Hertha See, or Black lake, from the dark shadows of the beech woods around; it is still looked on with veneration by the inhabitants. It is about 200 paces long, and 48 feet deep in the centre. These localities, and various ancient remains existing upon the island, such as tumuli and cromlechs, possess additional interest, if we regard them as the relics of a nation by whom Rome was overthrown, after an existence of twelve centuries: Odoacer, who finally captured the Imperial city, was king of the Rugii, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who formed his army, was this remote and insignificant is land, and the neighbouring coast of Pomerania. 3. Immediately beyond the Hertha See and the wood of Stubbenitz, rises the foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a precipice of chalk, 440 feet high, rising out of the sea, somewhat like Shakspeare's cliff at Dover. Tolerable accommodation may be found in an inn near at hand (Baumhaus). A staircase of 600 steps cut in the rock leads from the shore to the highest summit, called Königsstuhl. Hither travellers repair to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On the W. rises the promontory of Arkona, the most northern point of Rügen, stretching far out into the sea. The Stubbenkammer is about 20 miles distant from Putbus, and 15 from Bergen. Close to this, is the Herthaburg, an eminence crowned by a nearly oval wall or entrenchment constructed by the ancient Sclavic inhabitants of the island. Within the enclosure, the Temple of the Heathen goddess Hertha is said to have stood. At Quoltitz is the stone of Sacrifice, a rude block traversed by a groove or channel, to collect, it is said, the blood of human victims. Spieker, a country seat of Prince Putbus, is a fanciful castle built by Baron Wrangel, after the thirty years' war. The way from Stubbenkammer to Arkona lies along another narrow tongue of land, called Die Schafe, which unites the promontory Jasmund to that of Wittow. At the village of Altenkirchen (Haas's Inn,) the poet Kosegarten, who was its pastor, is buried. For 8 successive Sundays, during the season of the herring fishery, the minister preaches upon the shore to the fishermen assembled around him in their boats, from the neighbouring islands. A figure of the Idol Swantewit, is said to be built into the wall of the Church. 4. Arkona, the most northern promontory of the Island, partly a chalk cliff, 173 feet above the sea, is surmounted by a lighthouse which furnishes accommodation to travellers. The view from it extends over the coast of the promontory Jasmund, to the island Hiddensee, and to the more distant Danish island Moen. Upon Arcona stands the ancient Fortress of the Wends, who at one period inhabited this island, called Burgring. It is a circular entrenchment |