HONEYSUCKLE.

RECENT TRAVEL IN SOUTH AMERICA.*

INNUMERABLE rivers find their source in that vast moun- also to permit the ascent of creeks, and small tributaries ›'

a boat was selected with a flat bottom, roof, and square bow and stern. It had a short mast, assisted by oars, and was known on the river as an Igarite. At sunset on the 22d of November, 1842, when the hour of departure was announced, the light little craft shot, with a bound, from the side of the Growler steamer, and commenced the up

tain chain which, commencing at the southern extremity || of Patagonia, runs northward, diminishing in bulk while it runs along the isthmus of Guatamala, and again swelling into magnitude as far as the Arctic Ocean. This vast rocky wall, then, is eight thousand four hundred miles in length. The enormous volume of water which, bubbling from many sources, and pursuing various chan-ward voyage. The roll of the sea came in heavily, and nels, pours into the South and North Atlantic Ocean, is the boat, tossing on the water, offered but an unwilling derived chiefly from this lofty range; and chief among the obedience to the helm, until the head of a large island rivers which there take their rise, is the gigantic Amazon.intervened between it and Para. Every arrangement which It has its origin in the mountain Lake of Lauricocha, and could serve at once to economise space, promote the comthence continues under the name of Tunguaragua, until it fort, and assist the progress of the travellers, had been reaches the level country, where, making many bends, and made. Arms, ammunition, and provisions had been proreceiving many tributaries, it continues with a rapid cur- vided in abundance, and thus, in that curious little vessel, rent towards the sea, and finally in two arms—the one known || with a roof of palm leaves, and with the gloom of night as the Amazon, the other as the Para-pours itself into the above them, the voyagers commenced their adventures on ocean. To explore this great river, was once considered the Amazon. The scenery on both banks at once bore a task of danger and difficulty. From the period of its testimony to the nature of the region they were penetratdiscovery, in 1500, until the commencement of another ing. Magnificent palm trees bordered the shores; moncentury, every new enterprise seemed to invest the voyage keys and large flights of parrots peopled the forest; whilst with more peril. Every region which is but imperfectly wretched Indian huts, with occasionally a white-haired old known is sure to cause the birth of numerous fabulous man and a few naked children, gave life to the scene. The accounts. This truth was illustrated by the country on river was from time to time disturbed by the roll of a porboth banks of the Amazon. One story described the city poise; but no other animals were seen, though the crew, of Manao, where, as it was said, three thousand men were while labouring at the oar, were heard conversing with constantly employed in melting and washing the precious eagerness on the vast number of wild beasts which infested metals. The region was ruled by the "Gilded King," who|| this region. Many islands broke the current of the stream. was as powerful as he was wealthy, and led vast armies One of these, the Ilha de Santa Isabella, may be described into the field. Others related the adventures of some as a type of the rest, which seldom vary from it, except in travellers in a country peopled by a fair race of Amazons, the accidents of size and shape. It rises from the water who were visited at certain periods of the year by a tribe || with a gentle slope, and is covered with a mass of forest of the Guachas; but slew their male children. These, and which, near the shore, is composed of low, full-foliaged other tales, which have excited much grave speculation, trees, whilst towards the centre, the towering palm grows caused an equal amount of curiosity. Traditions, however in large clumps-so that the whole presents the appearance extravagant, are seldom altogether the creation of fancy. of a dome of various colours, or rather of a succession of Some particle of truth, however minute, is contained in lofty terraces, around the foot of which, and climbing over them, and the difficulty has always been to discover where this gorgeous roof, the wild and beautiful red creeper of the truth ends, and the fabulous begins. To solve this ques- Brazils twines itself amid all the more sombre vegetation. tion, many expeditions have from time to time been under- In some spots, however, low thickets take the place of the taken to navigate the Amazon from its mouth to its source, more lofty forest, and these, in all portions of the country, or from its rise in the mountains to its junction with the as well as in the isle of St. Isabel, indicate a flat, marshy land, whilst the generous and lofty growth of the woods bespeaks firm ground. It was near this island that Prince Adalbert was first compelled to lay aside all affectation of dignity, all royal airs and courtly delicacy-to wash his own shirts. Indeed, in this as in many other respects, our traveller is worthy of commendation. He carried with him to the banks of the Amazon none of that palace spirit which renders a man unfit to explore strange regions. He is a genuine traveller, and shows, doubtless, to better advantage in the wilds of South America, than in the perfumed and carpeted saloons of Berlin.

Bea.

Modern discovery has placed the whole region within the circle of our geographical knowledge, and withdrawn it from the limits of the marvellous. Nevertheless, little information connected with the river, the people on its banks, and the degree of civilization existing there, has been popularly diffused. We must congratulate ourselves, therefore, on possessing, in the narrative of Prince Adalbert, a curious addition to the literature of travel and adventure. His work is as valuable as it is interesting. We purpose to accompany the young traveller through a portion, at least, of his wanderings, enlarging on such incidents as may be well worthy of notice, and passing over such details as might be considered more tedious. To allow ourselves room for this, we omit further generalities, and at once enter on the narrative.

Many singular spectacles presented themselves during this portion of the journey. The trunks of large trees were often seen carried down by the current, while upon them, perched in a row, numerous large birds were gravely making a voyage; appearing to have much relish for this To render the navigation of the stream more easy, and mode of transit, which spared their wings, and bore them

* Travels, by His Royal Highness Prince Adalbert of Prussia, in the south of Europe and in Brazil, with a voyage up the Amá» zon and Xingu. Translated by Sir Robert D. Schomburgh, and John Edward Taylor. David Bogue, 1849,

safely along, without calling for any exertion on their part. Another sight, no less curious, but less pleasant, because it was looked upon as prophetic of future suffering, attracted attention, which appeared to be columns of smoke rising from the ground in straight lines, but still agitated by the wind, but proved to be gyrating swarms of insects, which all travellers in tropical countries behold with abhorrence. Personal experience, with accounts of former sufferers, teaches this feeling; nevertheless, Prince Adalbert and his companions escaped, as yet, unmolested.

ascended with great rapidity. The gullies were full, and the inundation was still rising and threatening to submerge the whole expanse around. In this emergency, his knowledge of the art of swimming was Count Oriolla's safety. He plunged into the floods, encumbered with clothes and fire-arms, and, accompanied by his half-amphibious guide, succeeded in reaching the Igarite, where the white travellers, alarmed by his prolonged absence, had maintained a repeated discharge of guns, to direct his course through the forest swamp.

The palm trees, which, rising branchless to the height of a hundred feet, bordered the stream, served to support

On the 25th, they reached Breves, a small village, composed of two rows of huts, one of which is built on piles in the water, The walls are constructed of a frame of palm-a colossal wall of vegetation, which fell, like a huge curwood, interlaced with pieces from the upper part of the trees, the leaves of which are bent inward, and secured in the centre to form the roof. Reed mats, trelliced, are placed in lieu of glass, reminding the traveller of the lattice-work of the Eastern Harims. In the interior of each dwelling a huge table is placed, which occupies nearly the whole of the interior, and is between two and three feet high. This, || during periods of inundation, serves as a second floor, which would seem to indicate an unhealthy situation; but the inhabitants of Breves are robust, and habitually attain an advanced age. They lead, it is true, an easy life, contented with simple food, and still more simple utensils for preparing it, and pass all the time which they are not absolutely compelled to employ in providing for their sub-sued the creature as it glided towards a close thicket. sistence, swinging in luxurious idleness in their hammocklike couches.

tain, from their summits to the ground, and was spangled with red flowers like brilliant coral ornaments. Never, says our author, shall I forget their gorgeous display of colours. The scene was beheld with singular effect whilst the rich red rays of sunset fell through this spangled veil and brightened the surface of the stream with that peculiar glare consequent on the meeting of deep mellow light with dark, and rapidly-flowing water. Prince Adalbert observed one morning an object like a huge coil of silver lying close to one of these curtains of vegetation. It was a huge boa-constrictor, which, on being fired at, slowly unwound itself, and advanced along the bank. The travellers immediately made for the shore, landed, and pur

The Count at first attacked the creature with a cutlass, but without much effect, for the weapon merely raised the skin. At length, however, a blow, directed at a delicate part pinned the reptile to the earth, when another of the sportsmen fired a ball into its head, which laid it apparently lifeless upon the ground. But its life was not spent, nor was its strength exhausted. A crowd collected round it, guns and cutlasses were plied, until, at length, another shot in the skull put an end to the struggle, and the reptile died in strong convulsions. It measured more than sixteen feet; and its skin, stuffed and preserved, now forms an ornament in the Prince's residence. The little town of Guenpoi soon afterwards appeared in view, crowning the

Farther on, a few isolated dwellings of primitive construction were also seen on the river's bank. They were generally surrounded by trees. Indeed, the whole country is a forest, composed of a curious species of palm, from the Ubussu, whose short thick trunk seems necessary to support the weight of its gigantic leaves, to the Assai,|| whose stem, so supple is it, may be twisted into a perfect ring. The animal creation which peopled these woods afforded a constant source of amusement, whilst the crew, whenever a halt was made, dispersed themselves, armed with knives and sticks, to hunt turtles and shellfish in the pools and ditches. Some of these men were tall, finely-high bank of the Amazon, here rising more than twenty formed Indians, with hair of glossy blackness, and teeth feet above the stream, and defended by a single gun, with filed to a point. Their keen sight was astonishing, as well a wall, and some wooden palisades. Its inhabitants are as the rapid, but light and elastic step with which they few, but somewhat industrious. They make bricks, tiles, passed noiselessly over the leaves and branches that covered and pottery, collect cocoa and sarsaparilla on the neighbourthe ground to the depth of a foot, whilst the heavy steps ing islands, and extend their excursions to a considerable of the less skilful Europeans made a loud crackling sound. distance up the river, which is here a nautical mile in The Indians seldom used the façaos, an instrument neces-breadth, and of a muddy yellow colour. The vessels which sary to the white traveller in searching his passage through || proceed inland, or come down from the interior, are searched the forest, but glided among the bushes with incredible at Gudupa, which is an excise as well as a commercial staadroitness and agility, slipping under the tall arched palm tion. It contains at present from forty to fifty houses, and leaves that shoot like mushrooms from the ground, and its inhabitants, as Prince Adalbert tells us, are constantly which, when touched, sent down a shower of small brown regaled by a concert formed by the voices of thousands of ants upon the travellers, who suffered severely from their monkeys from the neighbouring forest. stings. Count Oriolla, one of the most intimate companions of Prince Adalbert, met with an adventure whilst walking in these woody solitudes, which might have terminated seriously. Having separated himself from the rest of the party, he crossed several natural canals, and largeable simplicity, the existence of this creature is not quite expanses of morasses, now making his way over the trunks of fallen trees, now over the huge roots of the palm, which, in some places, rise and form an arch several feet above the ground. Finding himself at length a considerable distance from the boat, he resolved at once to return. He had not calculated, however, on the flood-tide, which had

Many legends were afloat in this region connected with the fabulous seven-headed serpent, which, as Albuquerque* told them, is found in a small lake connected by a narrow channel with the river. But, he continued, with admir

certain. Our travellers were sufficiently incredulous on this point to refrain from turning aside from their course to visit the abode of the wonderful serpent. They preferred going straight a-head towards the mouth of the

*Not Alburquerque of historical fame, but Albuquerque the pilot, who owned a little hut on the banks of the Xingu,

Xingu, whose clear green waters had for some time been || after walking across the Estrada di Bocca. Equipped for

perceptible in the muddy yellow stream of the Amazon. To explore this river was the chief aim of the travellers, who had heard marvellous stories of the Jurunas, a savage race, said to hang up their prisoners by the legs, and kill them by a blow across the neck. The little station of Goz soon presented itself. It is smaller than Gudupa, but contains a neat little church. The inhabitants, when Prince Adalbert arrived, were engaged in solemnising the festival of Saint Andrew. The negroes were dancing in a house to the sound of the bengua, a short piece of the trunk of a tree, hollowed, and covered at one end with a skin. A procession of the whole population was then formed; the younger members of it were entirely naked. Flags and poles wreathed with flowers were carried at the head of the column, but the travellers passed on, and did not wait to observe the conclusion of the festivities. A schooner lay moored in the stream, and two others were on the stocks under a roof of palm-leaves.

The mouth of the Xingu presented itself like a mimic ocean to the eye of the explorers. The Igarite immediate shot out upon its broad bosom, and soon exchanged the discoloured flood of the Amazon for the dark bottlegreen waters of its great tributary river. Large columns of smoke were seen far in the interior; whilst occasionally through a vista in the forest fires were visible, but at too great a distance to allow the travellers to note what objects they were which were observed moving around them. After a short visit to the dwellings of the native pilots who lived in leaf-thatched huts in the shelter of a grove, the party proceeded on its way, now passing forests which seemed to have flourished without change since the creation, and now sailing by the skirts of white sandy plains, where there were no trees to shield the earth from the sun's rays.

the undertaking, and armed for defence and for sport, they commenced the journey in a forest where the trees shot up smooth and straight, sometimes to the height of a hundred and fifty feet, whilst many fallen trunks lay across the pathway. The hollow sound of a cataract occasionally sounded through the wood, whilst across the torrents, which at intervals foamed in their way, the Indians had thrown bridges composed of a single tree, to which a railing of slender branches was attached.

We must quote Prince Adalbert's descriptions of his night bivouac in the wood. They had despatched their evening meal, and drew to their cloaks, whilst the wind was driving heavy masses of black clouds across the sky, foreboding a dismal night :----

"I had not rested long when a shower of rain awoke me, and I fell into a conversation with the doctor. The Padre's white nightcap just then peeped out of his hammock, but he quickly drew it again over his ears. He presently fell asleep. In a few hours there was a second shower heavier than the first, which extinguished the fire. Every one now sought shelter under the sail-cloth, and I was fortunate enough to secure a place. With the antipathy, however, natural to a European, for the stinging ants and other insects that swarmed upon the ground, I hailed the offer of Count Oriolla and Mr. Thremin for a place in their hammocks. We tried in vain to make room for two persons, and were obliged at last to give up our fruitless gymnastic exertions, partly from the impossibility of keeping our equilibrium, partly from the Egyptian darkness that surrounded us, and partly because the slender hammocks were not able to sustain such a weight. For a moment the rain seemed to cease, and I instantly crept to my hammock. Another shower came on: I cast a look at the doctor swinging in his hammock near me, and saw that he had no cloak; the sight excited my compassion. I tried to share cloak and hammock with him, but although the intention was a noble one, its execution was anything but agreeable, for the end of it was that the cloth came rolling to the wet ground. This was rather too much for my patience. I sought again the shelter of the sail-cloth as well as I could, working my way among the Indians. Once safely lodged under cover, I threw myself on the ground, and wrapping the poncho around me, managed to keep my head raised above the earth. My feet, however, were still ex posed to the wet, and I tried to creep further under the sail; but the same reason led the Indians to make a similar effort, and in the end they succeeded in drawing the sail-cloth away from us, leaving the hammocks dangling in the rain. In so doing they broke several of the poles, one of the hammocks fell to the ground, and the cloth hung dripping down."

The first day of December brought them within view of the picturesque little town of Veiros, which stands at the northern extremity of a large bay formed by a bend in the river on a precipitous height, and consisting of twenty or thirty miserable huts. It is not in its habitations, however, that we are to look for the beauty of Veiros. A pile || of red rocks lies on one hand. In front the bay, with its dark green waters and numerous verdant islands, receded in a gradual sweep, whilst the river rolled beyond, and This was an unpleasant situation, with the rain coming further still stretched the woody shore. A little church || down in floods, and the wind howling with all the fury of stands in the centre, and in front of it has been erected a a tempest. Our author lay on his back in a pool, with large and solitary cross to mark that the religion of Europe the water gushing as from a gutter in his face, in which has taken root, and made itself a dwelling, if not an un- position he compares himself to a poor half-drowned black shared kingdom there on the banks of the Xingu. Formerly || beetle lying helpless in the wet. However, a fire was places of opulence and splendour existed in this region, kindled, the rain abated, and Prince Adalbert, with the when the Jesuits possessed stations at intervals along the rest of the party, was at length enabled to enjoy a sound river. One church especially was noticed in the town of and unbroken sleep, untroubled by the ants. Saugel, whose size has diminished with its wealth, which has decreased in proportion with the beauty of its appearA few guilded images and decorations are all that are left to speak of former magnificence; graves are sunk in the hard floor; the planks are rotted, and the figure of the virgin is decaying as rapidly as the rest of the edi-ed. fice.

ance.

In the morning they proceeded still further through the forest, now pausing to inspect some ruined and deserted dwelling, or to shake down a few chocolate nuts, and partake of a draught of pure water from a rivulet or spring. The path was intricate, and constantly obstructNumerous footways intersected the ground in all directions, but we cannot pause to describe in detail this ex

However, it was not with the view of visiting these meet-cursion, which was full of novelty and interest. On regaining points of civilization and barbarism, of Christianity, with the wild creed of the heathen, that the travellers had entered the Xingu. They were eager to penetrate within the confines of pure savage life, and accordingly resolved to make a short excursion by land, and join the boat again,

ing the river, it was determined to pursue the upward voy age in "ubas," which are canoes, constructed out of the trunks of large trees, hollowed, with transverse benches. Notwithstanding the abundance of wood, the people of this country have not the slightest idea of a board or plank;

even the seats of the boats are composed of small sticks notice. During the dance, he flung his arms about in the laid close one to another, which were found very comfort- manner of the conjurers, and, approaching the plant, less by the travellers, whose ingenuity, spurred by neces-plucked a leaf; then twisting it into a cigar, presented it sity, contrived an easier place of rest. The scenery on the to the old man, who no longer hesitated to give him his banks of this river was even more rich and various than daughter, and they were married on the spot. that on the banks of the Amazon. The alligator, the Very singular customs prevail with respect to the distapir, the dark brown and agile guariba, afforded abun-posal of the dead. Prince Adalbert visited a large dant food for the rifle; while the brilliant display of flowers and blossoming creepers, mingling with the more sombre vegetation of the palm, gave ample employment to the

eye.

On the 5th of the month they reached the first settlement of the Jurunas, and entered a hut so buried in a thicket, that in the gloom of evening they could scarcely distinguish its outline. The Indians, extending their right hands, and standing round a blazing fire, welcomed the strangers with a cordiality which was not expected. The children were called out one by one, and formally introduced, whilst the women were also brought forward. Small wooden stools were placed for the travellers, and a supper of boiled fish and "bananas da terra" laid before them, and this with an air of such simple and warm hospitality that won our author's heart. And these, he says, are the so-called savages! The Juruna villages became more primitive as the travellers penetrated further into their country. The huts, however, were comfortable, and of somewhat elaborate construction. The ground plan of the dwellings forms an oblong square, rounded at the smaller sides, and from twenty to thirty feet long. Above this is raised a frame of slight poles, while along the centre, in a line, stand the main props, few in number, in order that they may not lessen the room which support the roof. These are connected with a cross-beam which runs from end to end of the building, whilst in a flat frame which forms a kind of loft below the thatch, stores of every description are kept. These consist of baskets for maudioca, heaps of cotton, calabashes, bundles of reeds for making arrows, baskets, vessels for palm-oil, and weapons, bows, arrows, and musical-instruments. Red macaws' feathers are stuck in the crevices.

dwelling in the village of Tavagisaro, which had been deserted by its former inmates. In the centre of the room, where the assembled family should have been, three long low graves attracted his attention. The hut had been the scene of three deaths, and had been abandoned in consequence. The living had chosen another habitation, and left their former one to the undivided occupancy of the dead, who, wrapped in mats, lay several feet beneath the floor. Earth fetched, according to custom, from the far interior of the forest, was piled on each grave, over which was placed a bow and some arrows, and a paddle, which showed that they were three men who had died there; for, at the decease of a woman, all that she possessed is thrown into the river. It is the duty of the survivors to go, morning and evening, during the space of twelve months, to weep and wail over the resting-place of the dead, whose remains, however, are not left to that long repose which is accorded to them in most other countries. When only the bones remain, they are taken up, placed in a mat or basket, and hung up under the roof of the hut where the relatives of the deceased dwell; so that in every house, with the exception of the deserted one to which we have alluded, which Prince Adalbert entered, he saw these relics of the dead swinging above the heads of the living. On the banks of the Mambakut river, in Borneo, a similar sight is presented, though originating in a different custom. There, however, they are the bones of slaughtered enemies, which hang in festoons from every roof, and rattle in grim concert as the wind finds its way through the openings, and causes a merry jingling of skulls and thigh-bones.

measure, monopolising the fatigue of the journey. If, however, the warriors prefer to go alone, their women remain at home to weave, or perform other labours. When the family is assembled together, the Juruna swings at ease in his hammock, lazily pointing a few arrows, or weaving a light basket, whilst his wife, kneeling at his side, holds his food in a calabash, and otherwise waits on him, as the slave-girl in Turkey waits on her luxurious lord.

Considerable barter took place between the Indians and their European visitors, who were also enabled to observe much of the private life of these savages. The Juruna is The walls of the house are pierced with two small en- somewhat eccentric in his treatment of his wife, who usutrances, which form the only medium through which light ally accompanies him to the chase, in the fishing expedican enter. A perpetual semi-darkness, therefore, prevails|tions, or on the war-trail, sharing the danger, and, in a great within, except when the fire is excited to a blaze, for the purpose of cooking. Low hammocks, made of cotton, swing between the poles, and serve as seats by day, and couches by night. In these simple, but not comfortless dwellings, the naked Jurunas pass their lives in that state which the savage calls happy, and which embraces the absence of want, and the gratification of the common passions and desires of life. Among these wild men, however,|| as well as among the civilised races of the west, the blind god finds a dwelling. The Juruna youth will consent to incur great danger, and undergo much fatigue and suffering, in order to win his wife; for before the father gives his consent, he demands from the suiter some proofs of his skill and courage. To test the first of these qualities, he must kill a jaguar or tapir with an arrow; and to prove the second, he must produce the teeth of an enemy slain by him in battle. At stated times, still more arduous tasks are imposed. An old Indian once required from his daughter's suiter that, while dancing, he should make a cigar, and present it to him. The young Juruna began the dance with great sang-froid, luckily observing a tobacco plant growing close by, which had escaped the old man's

The attention and solicitude of the Juruna women are divided somewhat equally between their husbands, their children, and the education and nurture of certain young puppies, which usually form part of a family. She tends them in every respect with the utmost care, carries them about in her arms, wrapped in a cloth, and frequently, as our travellers, on observation, can testify, allows them to usurp the place of a child at her breast-a most loathsome practice, and one for which it is difficult to account; but we must cope it to find rarities in taste as well as in manners, colour, and costume, among the various races of the world.

The upward journey was one of great interest, lying, as it did, through a magnificent country, peopled by wild and