Irish, hundreds of whom I have assisted to collect about him in the suburbs of London, to hear the "story o' paace" in their own tongue. It made me jealous on behalf of the perishing Irish, that one so surpassingly eloquent in that language should even for a day wrap his talent in a napkin, and preach to an English-speaking congregation. I told him so; and obtained the only redress I could get, a promise that in his circuits on the home mission he would always select the most Irish district, and devote himself as much as possible to the native race. I cannot bear to see any servant of God, possessed of that incalculably precious gift-the power of addressing these lost sheep of an ancient fold, and calling them to return to the good Shepherd-employed in any other work; and little as the congregation of Bethesda might thank me, I would silence for ever, if I could, their dear pastor's English tongue, and lay him under a bond to speak Irish only to the end of his days.

The afternoon was devoted to indulging my young companion with a visit to St. Patrick's cathedral, of which I speedily repented: for though the excellent dean takes care to compel its frequenters to hear the gospel, by giving the sermon before the anthem, which is the principal attraction to that service, no power of man can force

such an assemblage as I there beheld, to assume even the outward semblance of devotion. It was painful; and I know not what would tempt me there again, while any other Protestant church is open for public worship.

Our next destination is Westmeath.

LETTER V.

COUNTY WESTMEATH.

Near Mullingar, July. THIS almost central spot of Ireland, a centre of mournful attraction to me, was a principal object of my summer tour. After leaving Dublin, all that lay before me was unexplored ground, and every individual I could expect to meet, for some time, a stranger. With heartfelt regret I bade adieu to my hospitable friends in Dublin, and commenced the journey towards a beautifully retired spot in the heart of Westmeath, warmly invited where I was personally unknown. The canal was chosen, as offering a speedier and much more refreshing line of transit than the dusty roads. Accordingly, at nine in the morning, we English wanderers stepped into the boat, with a promise of being met, a stage short of Mullingar, and conveyed to the dwelling of our considerate entertainer. Many things concurred to render the moment of embarkation very depressing. You

may judge whether my spirits received a cheering impulse when I discovered that, with the exception of the corner which I occupied, and one over against me, the long narrow cabin was entirely filled with priests, bound, as it appeared for Maynooth. Some especial work had called them to Dublin, I suppose; and this goodly freight of eleven was returning to college. None of them had the appearance of students; all were evidently men of some standing in their vocation; and, prejudice of every kind apart, I regretted that habit of studying countenances which has from childhood made me a physiognomist, in spite of myself. Whether some untoward occurrence had called the darker passions into exercise, or whether an instinctive dislike of their company occasioned it, I know not; but looks more ominous of ill I never encountered, than from under the slouched hats and bent brows of my fellow-voyagers, during the three hours that I was pent up in their society. W., preferring the pleasant look-out from the open boat, soon left me to enjoy alone my singular privilege singular in several respects, for I had in the portmanteau at my feet a great folio of Foxe's Acts and Monuments, in my pocket Dr. Newland's cutting exposé of the antiscriptural Education Board, and on my lap the plants that I had brought from the top of Vinegar Hill.

Fancying myself in the Holy Inquisition, I could not but think how it would fare with me had all these silent witnesses been produced, and their testimony received; nor did it require any great stretch of imagination to suppose such a juncture. Had I been a man, openly observing them and their country, asking information or taking notes, I can readily imagine how bland, how courteous, how frank and agreeable the gentlemen around me would have become; but a female plainly attired, accompanied only by a school-boy, and giving no token of reverential homage to the clergy,' was not calculated to induce any disguise on their part. Glances of stern displeasure, quite unprovoked, frequently crossed my view, as I took a peep towards the opposite windows. The conversation was low, and much of it in Irish, as W., who knows a little of the language, informed me. I cannot say that, with the exception of one elderly man, who looked mild and thoughtful, and said very little, there was a face that I could have wished to see again. Yet some of them were very handsome men, and all had a most gentlemanly manner and demeanour. Each was habited in black-good broadcloth it appeared, with a fresh gloss on it; each had the distinguishing badge of a Romish priest, the broad-hemmed collar of white lawn turned down,