but a character of simple beauty and repose. A gentle acclivity leads the eye to prospects diversified indeed, yet varying without a break upon the uniform placidity of the scene. Here, a nobleman's or gentleman's seat, with its fine background of wooded hills, and a spacious lawn in front; there, a less conspicuous abode, or cluster of modest dwellings, with the slight spire of a village church peeping out beyond them. Again, where the shore flattens, a busy tribe of fishermen, launching or unlading their boats, with their lowly cabins scattered or congregated a little farther inland. The houses in Ireland are, as you know, almost universally white; and you could not but admire the picturesque effect thereby produced, when they are thinly scattered on rising grounds clad with that delicious verdure, the just boast of the Emerald isle, and relieved by a sufficiency of trees and hedgerows, which is not always the case, though Waterford harbour can display as much as the eye of taste would desire. We passed along, under a glorious sunshine; and the necessary demand on my attention, when the marvellously moderate charges for cabin fare and attendance were presented and the selection of luggage commenced, gave a turn to the tide of feeling, better suited to the realities of the moment.

What changeable beings we are!

No sooner

were those tears dried, than a flow of cheerfulness, presently amounting to the most mirthful glee, succeeded. We found ourselves near our friend Nora, whose red chimney-top had discarded its long black pennon of smoke, and whose passengers were already dispersed to their several destinations. St. Patrick was laid alongside his rival, who formed a bridge for us to the pier; and Robert having recommended that, as we had not to seek a public conveyance, and were under no obligation to hasten ashore, we should remain quiet until all the rest were landed, we collected our trunks about us, and sat still, delighted spectators of the lively

scene.

For, whatever else an Irish scene may lack, there is never a deficiency of liveliness in it. There is something in the national character always on the qui vive for amusement; and an unsophisticated set of Irish porters, at home, are very different from any fraternity whom you have probably seen exercising that calling. I never was more amused by the contrast than now, that I had so recently experienced the sturdy demands, and witnessed the angry competition, of the London and Bristol professionals. As I sate guarding my little stores, many a polite offer of service was tendered, more with the air of a gentleman who wishes to oblige you, than of a hungry fellow

whose dinner, and supper too, depend on what he 'I'm just going over there,'

may gain by it. pointing across the Nora; 'may-be, I'd carry your luggage with me,' said a fine, broad-faced Paddy, who had strolled up, and stood before us with great composure. Thank you; but I'm not going ashore yet, and there's a gentleman managing the luggage for me.' Paddy responded to the smile with which this was spoken, touched his fragment of a hat, and, wheeling off, saw a large telescope, fixed in its rest, with the broad end about eight inches from an upright board. Not heeding the latter obstruction, Paddy immediately placed himself at the eyeglass, and applying his hands to his knees squatted down till he brought himself, as he thought, in the right line of vision to enjoy an excellent view of the harbour and distant shipping. A long pry convinced him, I suppose, that the glass was a bad one; for he walked away in search of some other amusement. This, trifling as it was, delighted me beyond measure: I felt myself in Ireland; and when at last permitted to spring ashore, my very feet seemed to rejoice in the privilege of kissing the beloved soil again.

Waterford has a most noble quay, little less than a mile in length, broad, and at the point where we landed exhibiting some fine buildings. The most conspicuous of these is a very ancient

tower, of Danish origin, round, massive, and once no doubt of prodigious strength. It is said to have been erected in 1003; and among the purposes to which it has been applied, was that of a fortress, by Earl Strongbow; a state prison, too, wherein were confined his captives, Reginald prince of the Danes in Waterford, Malachi O'Faelan, prince of the Deeies, with other conquered opposers; and a mint, by Edward IV. It is now the head-quarters of the police establishment in Waterford. In occasionally naming the police, I must guard you against the mistake of identifying them with those peaceable-looking gentry, who, with blue coats well buttoned up, and respectable round hats, perambulate the streets of London, apparently not only inoffensive but defenceless too; and whose chief business, as a casual observer would surmise, is to answer the frequent queries of bewildered pedestrians, at a loss whether the right turning or the left will sooner bring them to their destination. The police force of Ireland present a far different aspect: their uniform is dark green, altogether of military fashion, with regimental cap, broad black belt, short musket, cartouche-box, and bayonet. The officers, or chief and deputy chief constables as they are called, wear swords. This is one of the saddening characteristics of poor Ireland. The sword of the

Spirit has been withheld from her children; therefore the carnal weapon is become indispensable to control the excitable and misguided populace.

All around us, however, was peace and good humour when we trod the broad and well-placed flag-stones that separate, with a delightful promenade, the water's edge from the carriage-way; and crossing the latter, proceeded on another excellent pavement, along a line of handsome shops, which spoke well for Waterford's trading prosperity. Our plan was to engage a private conveyance to New Ross, where we meant to dine; and I had little difficulty in persuading my guide to order an outside car, that we might be as Irish as possible. We were shewn into a handsome drawing-room at the proprietor's office; and while waiting, I had leisure to admire the beauty of the splendid river, with its rising banks on the opposite side, and regretted my inability to take a survey of the town. Our starting scene was amusing enough: the car was of very ordinary materials, and the driver presented as grotesque an object as could well be imagined. The very slender remains of what had once been a hat caught the master's eye, and an order was given to find him a better. "Can none of you lend Barney the trifle of a hat?" resounded through the establishment. Several were produced; but Barney's phrenological