change it for a post-chaise. Once more, and for the last time, as I supposed, I reaped the fruit of the universal love and admiration in which he had been held, and the deep sympathy excited by his fate; for when the master ascertained our relationship, the usual civility shewn by his class in Ireland became heightened into an assiduous kindness and respectful attention, the origin of which made them doubly welcome. Even here, I was constrained to smile at the deportment of a group of beggars. Knowing as I do how entirely this class of the poor Irish are driven to subsist on charity, I never like to refuse a trifle: however, to rid myself of much superfluous importunity, I addressed the eager applicants on my first alighting in the easy way that always takes with them. 'Now mind, I am going to stay an hour or two in Mullingar: I shall start from this hotel: and if you will be quiet and not follow me about, I will give each of you something before I go.' This assurance was received with a chorus of blessings pronounced in every imaginable variety of language; and down they squatted on the ground, about the door, with looks so full of glee, that you who are accustomed to the aspect, real or assumed, of the same class in England, would never have guessed at their profession.

I had, or fancied that I had, numerous wants to

be supplied at the various shops which stud the opposite side of the single, very lengthy street of Mullingar. On returning from the church-yard, I commenced this course of shopping, and my poor women watched every movement from their station. At last the most wheedling old creature you ever saw crossed over to me, and began with, 'Darling lady, I have looked after your blessed steps all the morning won't I get the halfpenny now?' 'No, for you know we agreed to wait till I should set off.' Just then, the reason of her appeal became apparent; a famished looking creature whom I had not seen before presented herself with two pale babes, and began-She has no family to care for, and I'—'Oh,' I interrupted, 'you must not be jealous of each other; you dont know my promise,' which I repeated, including her in it. The poor woman fell back directly, with a still sad, but very thankful countenance. I went to two more shops, and finding the body of claimants likely to increase greatly, and also seeing the near approach of heavy rain, I supplied myself with change, beckoned to the party opposite, and immediately had the most motley assemblage pressing round me that could be conceived. was resolved to put their subordination, that is to say, the civilization of Irish savages, still farther to the test; so said, 'You must not crowd

me, you know: just stand out in a proper line.' It was done immediately; and none had reason to regret their good conduct; on which, by the by, I complimented them greatly. Such a scene would not have done in a more public place; but the *hour was so early, and all around so quiet, that there was nothing to prevent it. One remark I must add—when the long delay occasioned by the rain had fairly laid me open to a fresh application from another party, not a creature appeared to ask alms: the former group remained at a distance, others being with them; all had their eyes fixed on us; many raised their voices to send a blessing with us; but some feeling appeared to withhold the approach of every individual. Now, have I not added one more to the many instances that I have in conversation related to you, justifying my assertion that the poorest, the most uncivilized of these despised Irish, are, under proper management, the most tractable people in the world? The smile to which I alluded was not one of merriment, but that expression of affectionate good humour without which all the rest had been in vain: at least, though under different treatment a sense of their helpless dependence might have forced them to wait, like hungry but well-kicked dogs for a bone, the pleased and gratified feeling that gave such a peculiar alacrity to

their obedience would have been wanting. My first object was merely selfish-the anxiety of a harassed mind to escape a teasing annoyance at such a time. By degrees it assumed a better character, and ended in a train of thought well calculated to soften the agonizing severity of feelings and regrets purely my own. Some tourists jest with the beggars in Ireland; others execrate, or bitterly complain of them. I don't know whether any are in the habit of trying how far a little relief and plenty of civility combined will go to neutralize their troubles. Five shillings will carry any one, on this plan, a hundred miles in good humour with himself, and in high favour with the objects of his bounty.

Of the scenery north-east of Mullingar, I can tell you very little. Sheets of water continued to descend, making the windows as opaque as though their material had been ground glass. Whenever a temporary cessation of the torrent allowed us to take a glimpse, pure unsophisticated bog was the sum-total of the amount on either side: but to me, who know somewhat of the mysteries of turfbuying, it appeared of a truly valuable kind, black, compact, and heavy. I believe the soil here is peculiarly rich. We struck at last into a very pretty road, well hung on both sides with foliage, and exhibiting some handsome plantations and

gardens. By this time, too, the sun had broken forth with renovated splendour; and the glorious bow of promise spanned the scene, so deliciously fresh after those abundant showers. Few things are more impressively typical of divine influence on the heart of man, softened by some afflictive dispensation, than the aspect of this earth when the sunshine falls upon foliage moist with summer rain. In this instance the glow was so vivid, that before we reached our halting-place, at the end of the first eight or nine miles, scarcely any dampness remained on the road; and while our horses were refreshed, we indulged ourselves with a stroll into what appeared a singular church-yard; for the sacred edifice was built in the very midst of an ornamental plantation, surrounded by a handsome fence of stone, which obliged us to commit somewhat of a trespass, in availing ourselves of a partial gap to scale the fortifications. We did, however, obtain entrance this way, and satisfied ourselves that the church was really built on a private and very handsome demesne.

And a mile or two beyond this I came in contact, for the first time, with what, I confess, roused something in my bosom not quite amicable to the viceregency of the land. The newspapers have no doubt informed you, that, in his zeal for the preservation of this country, Lord Mulgrave had