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CHAPTER X.

ROUTE ALONG THE COAST OF CEYLON FROM TRINCOMALLEE TO

JAFFNAPATAM.

WHEN passing along the eastern coast of Ceylon from Trincomallee to Jaffnapatam, the route as far as the village of Cockly, on the north side of the river, is the same which we travelled on our way to Aripo. That part of the road is therefore already described, by the rude sketch which has been given of it in the preceding chapter. The writer of these sheets having first touched the shores of the island at Trincomallee, and having proceeded thence to Columbo by Jaffnapatam, had an opportunity of seeing a portion of the country, which was cut off from view by the direction of the tour in 1800. On that account a chasm is here filled up by the following extract from a former journal.

The road from Trincomallee to Molative runs almost parallel to the sea coast, which on that side of the island bends towards the north-west. After leaving the cottages

of Cockly, the first ground, generally occupied as a restingplace, is Watuvy, at the distance of fifteen miles. Agreeably accompanied by Anthony Bertolacci, esq., post-mastergeneral in Ceylon, I arrived at that place on the 6th of June, 1799, at which time no building stood there: but materials were then preparing to erect a bungaloe for accommodating the peons employed in the business of the post-office. We took shelter from the rays of the sun, during the heat of the day, under the boughs of an Indian fig tree, which was the spot where the post runners were changed and relieved. In all parts of India the regular letter-bags are forwarded merely by men on foot. An adequate establishment of horses would greatly increase the expence of the department; and from the rugged and confined nature of many of the paths, would not much accelerate the speed of the conveyance.

Our mode of travelling, on this occasion, was as simple, and the number of our attendants as much limited, as circumstances would permit. Each person, however, was furnished with a palanquin and thirteen bearers; and two additional coolies carried a basket containing refreshments, plates, knives and forks, and other necessary articles. At almost every choultry, or spot of ground allotted for the accommodation of travellers, an assortment of earthen pots was found sufficient for culinary purposes. The top of one of the palanquins answered as a dining-table, breast high,

at which we were obliged to stand: and when we chose to be seated, the sides of those vehicles afforded excellent sofas. (For every one of the party who travelled in company with the governor, a chair was carried by a servant.) At every stage we were furnished with a plentiful supply of rice, fish, and fowls, and sometimes presented with a quarter of venison.

The face of the country, from Cockly to Watuvy, is romantic, varied by open prospects, deep rocky glens, fine spreading trees, and impervious thickets. At four o'clock in the afternoon we set out for Allumbelly, distant only three miles, and arrived there at five. After enjoying the grateful refreshment of a glass of cocoa-nut water, from fruit newly pulled, and having determined to advance no farther on our journey that night, we walked out, for the sake of amusement, into a beautiful winding valley which adjoins the rest-house. There a large plain, cleared of jungle, and bounded by variegated woods, bears evident marks of having once been tilled: and a herd of cattle was then grazing in it on good pasture. It contains two ponds of fresh water, which attract flocks of birds, and offer great encouragement to the inhabitants to improve the culture of their native soil. Industry, however, does not appear to be one of their virtues, and even the simplest rudiments of husbandry are little known or practised amongst them. They catch fish in these pools with so much ease, that the

operation seems an enlivening pastime; and when the immediate demands of nature are satisfied, they look for no nigher gratifications. Luxury and convenience are to them unknown; and their wants are much fewer than those of the poor inhabitants of less favoured climates.

Knox, speaking of the Cingalese, says what is equally applicable to the Malabars in this part of the country, so far as it regards their general habits. They are naturally a people given to sloth and laziness; if they can but any ways live, they abhor to work; only what their necessities force them to, they do, that is to get food and raiment. Yet in this I must a little vindicate them; for what indeed should they do with more than food and raiment, seeing as their estates increase, so do their taxes also? and altho' the people be generally covetous, spending but little, scraping together what they can, yet such is the government they are under, that they are afraid to be known to have any thing, lest it be taken away from them. Neither have they any encouragement to industry, having no vend by traffic and commerce for what they have got." This is correctly descriptive of their ancient state: but the Malabars of Ceylon now live under a more liberal government.

A flock of curious birds was resting in the valley. The species appeared to be about the size of a turkey, having the plumage of their bodies black, and that of their necks white. One amongst them, of a still larger size, had a long

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yellow neck, and an assemblage of various gaudy colours over the rest of its body. This bird was the first that moved off the ground on observing our approach. The others gradually caught the alarm, departing one by one: and the remainder was suddenly put to flight by the report of a fowling-piece. Many more kinds of the feathered race were likewise seen, both on the open meadow, and in the adjoining woods, lessening in size from those above mentioned, down to the humming-bird. The plumage of many displays a great variety of bright and beautiful colours.. We heard the screaming of pea-fowls, and saw some of their long feathers scattered on the ground. A great quantity of large snails cased in shells may be included amongst the objects which attracted attention on this spot.

of them

Close to the rest-house stands a Portuguese place of worship, of a humble construction, built solely of clay, and thatched with the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, plantations of which and of the palmyra surround it. This church is enclosed by a slight fence, within which is a well of excellent water.

Next morning we left Allumbelly at day-break, and proceeded twelve miles to Moletive, where we found the commandant, and two Dutch gentlemen waiting breakfast for us. That officer had received information of our approach from some native travellers who had passed us on the road the preceding day. As there are no inns in Ceylon, the houses of the officers stationed at the out-posts become