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Published by G. B. Whittaker, for La Belle Assemblee N 39 New Series March 11828.

tippet, formed of the same plumage, is worn over the shoulders, with an antique || fan of the same light material. The earpendants consist each of three valuable pear-pearls, set en girandoles.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON

FASHIONS AND DRESS.

To those who have expressed their wonder at our authentic records of the various modes that characterize the paraphernalia of a modern lady, we can reply, || that we leave no fashionable haunt unex

plored, and that we are also favoured by some of the most distinguished marchandes || des modes with the inspection of all that is novel and tasteful. A fine day conducts us to the morning promenade, where we are sure of finding beauty and elegance assembled. The theatres, and, par excellence, the Italian opera, the concert, ball, and rout, offer innumerable resources to the eye of observation, and enable us to give every intelligence relative to the toilet, which our female readers can require.

Merino pelisses of royal-blue, trimmed with light-coloured sable, are much admired for the promenade; but these comfortable envelopes for cold weather are not so general as might be expected during a season, which, though humid, and subject to continual change, has been unusually mild: the value and expense, even of these pelisses, have not been sufficient to give them any decided preference over the much smarter one of gros de Naples, elegantly, but chastely ornamented with bias folds, cut in points: these pelisses fasten, imperceptibly, down the front, with small gold springs underneath the folds. Velvet and satin pelisses are generally trimmed with chinchilla, zibeline, and other costly furs, round the border, à la Witzchoura. Mantles are universally worn, in every style of outdoor costume. We never can admire them for walking, unless a lady may be alone, attended only by her servant; otherwise, they are unsociable and inconvenient: they are a delightful wrap to put on in visiting the theatre, and other evening places of resort-at going in, and at quitting them.

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If such trifles were worth serious sorrow, we should say, we really grieve at seeing the ridiculous size of the gloomy black velvet bonnets; we say gloomy, because, if they were moderate in size, no bonnets at this season of the year could be more becoming, beautiful, and appropriate: nor will we retract the expres sion, that we grieve at the present fashion; for it must cause sorrow to see the fairer part of creation thus disfiguring themselves. Our churches, where there is, and generally ought to be, "a dim, religious light," are absolutely darkened by the shade of black bonnets, spread out as wide as possible, with all manner of crazylooking ornaments of the same black hue and heavy texture. We saw a gentleman, at what is called a fashionable chapel, of rather defective sight, who was obliged to turn himself about in every direction, before he could obtain sufficient light to read his liturgy. The size of these bonnets is often increased by a deep blond falling over the face. We admire this addition on white bonnets, but we cannot say much for its grace or becomingness on black. Aigrette feathers, and long drooping plumes, of the weeping willow kind, are often worn with black hats; but for the promenade they are more usually plain, that is, free from feathers or flowers; though no expense is spared in the profuse trimmings of velvet, satin, and gauze ribbon. The coloured satin ribbons, richly striped, and wintry-tinted flowers, which enlivened the black velvet bonnets last month, though still partially worn, seem on the decline. We have seen a few coloured satin hats, lined with velvet, in carriages, but black velvet is, at present the reigning mode for hats and bonnets. Some of the latter are ornamented with pink satin puffs, and a long weeping-willow feather, of black and pink intermingled.

The dresses for evening parties are various white is still much worn by the young, both single and married. These are of every material: muslin does not prevail much, except it is the clear Booka; and most of the white dresses are transparent, and worn over white satin; though satin and white dresses of gros de Naples are much in request. A very lovely dress appeared a few evenings ago, of apricot

coloured crêpe-Aerophane, over white blond, a broad border of satin, painted with

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flowers, beautifully grouped together, in the most brilliant colours. Her head-dress was a béret of black gauze, striped with gold, and overshadowed by white ostrich feathers. Another lady was dressed in ruby-coloured velvet, bordered with two very broad flounces of rich white blond, set on in festoons, each headed by a full rouleau of white satin. The bust marked out by fluted robings of white satin. The fine dark hair of this lady was ornamented with pearls of great value, in a vibrating sprig, and a most splendid coronet comb; the pearls on the comb relieved by a few rubies, which corresponded well with the colour of her dress. Gowns of pink satin, celestial-blue taffety, and black velvet, formed the dresses of many of the fair matrons who witnessed the scientific and elegant dancing of their blooming

progeny.

satin: the border was trimmed en jabots,|| of the same material, and a pointed zone of satin, of the same colour, incircled the waist, clasped on one side with a diamond buckle. The bust was beautifully mark- || ed out by drapery-flutings of satin down each side, and the gown was made low, but perfectly decorous and becoming. The sleeves were long, and transparent, confined at the wrists by diamond bracelets. Two young ladies, recently married, made their first appearance at a dress-party; the robe of the elder was of a beautiful Chinese rose-colour, made with full plaitings across the bust, which fullness was confined, downwards, by rich silk cordon. This dress was lightly ornamented with white blond. The younger lady wore a gown of camelopard-yellow; the corsage made tight to the shape, and round the tucker part was a row of Castilian points, of the same material as the dress, trimmed round We ever must set our faces against the with narrow blond; a flounce of points, now-prevailing ornaments of gold and finished in the same manner, adorned the || silver on the hair: they give a paltry border. This dress was universally ad- || puppet-show kind of idea; for though mired for its chaste and elegant sim- they appear very fine and glittering, how plicity. We were present at a ball, a few truly unintrinsic they are, and almost alevenings ago; and we may venture to ways unbecoming. This we saw exempronounce that seldom could be seen an plified, at a second evening party, a short assemblage of lovely females habited with time since, on a very pretty woman, who more taste or elegance. The ball-dresses was always said to look well, in any were chiefly white, though some few were thing and every thing; but she was quite of coloured Indian taffety, painted ele- || disguised by having her head dressed à gantly in stripes, with the most splendid || l'Erigone, with abundance of silver grapes Oriental colours. These dresses happened and vine-leaves, obscuring, and almost to be worn by four or five of the finest covering all the beauty of her very fine dancers in the rooms, consequently they hair. If ladies will wear these gaudy were distinguished: but they had not the ornaments, they will find gold much more appearance of that intrinsic value, which becoming than silver. Pins of the Glauvina they really possessed; those of white kind, with the heads vibrating, and of satin, tastefully trimmed with gauze or gold, do not look amiss on the dark-hairtulle, those of gauze or tulle, trimmeded female; but then they should be placed with blond or satin, of white Japanese or Aerophane crape, over peach, pink, or other beautiful colours, were infinitely more pleasing to the eye. The mothers of these charming young people, and all the married ladies who did not dance, were also habited in an unusual style of costly elegance. One lady had a dress of white satin, ornamented with blond of a rich pattern, with long sleeves of transparent blond, confined at the wrists with pearl bracelets. The border of this dress was superb; having between two flounces of

very backward. Our fair Bacchante had her clusters of silver grapes falling over too near her face. Head-dresses, à l'Incas, are becoming to some features; but we do not admire the broad plate of gold, representing the Peruvian ornament, in front. The shawl ornament behind, when of real Indian texture, and in but a small quantity, is in good keeping, as are the short feathers round the head; but it is very absurd to place, as we have seen some ladies, a bouquet of roses, with such a head-dress, on the left side. Turban

caps are now very fashionable, and form a charming coiffeure for ladies of a certain age, who object to turbans as being too youthful. There we differ in opinion; as we think turbans, in their dignified appearance, fitted only to the matron advanced in years, but who yet mingles in fashionable parties. Certainly, where the face is thin, or the cheeks fall in, they may be found too short at the ears; but the Jewish, and Malabar turbans, have straps confining them under the chin, according to the classical mode of those head-dresses. However, the turban-cap may be found more appropriate : it is not too old-looking for middle age, and it has all the dressy appearance of the turban, while it gracefully bends low behind the ears to the turn of the neck (the beauty, alas! of which, is lost by years) and, from thence the strings float loose. They are generally made of folds of white and coloured gauze, with much rich ribbon,|| but of a light texture, and a few flowers, of suitable tints to the "winter of life," such as Bengal roses, clove carnations, &c. The caps for home costume, and for morning dress, are, for the former, of fine lace or blond, with large puffs of coloured gauze ribbons, and sometimes a few flowers; for the déjeûné, they are of fine India muslin, richly, yet lightly embroidered, with gauze ribbon bows, of light colours, and satin stripes.

The favourite colours are Indian-red, etherial-blue, camelopard-yellow, Macassar-brown, apricot, royal-blue, and laurel-leaf-green.

Cabinet of Taste,

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

IN despite of the unusual mildness of the humid winter, never were furs so much in request; every one adopting them, according to circumstances, and their intrinsic value indicating the rank of the wearer. Martens, foxes, chinchillas, zibelines, and ermines, all are tributary to beauty; and the skins of the rabbits and

Persian cats are made to imitate those of higher price.

Boa tippets, Russian mantelets, throat tippets, muffs, Witzchoura borders to pelisses, and their linings, are all of these costly skins, or well imitated by the Parisian furriers. There are, however, some satin pelisses which have not so wintry an appearance: these are generally black, and their trimming consists of a mixture of Astracan fur and the small feathers of the Toukan, orange-colour, and red. This trimming is put on in a pyramidical style, in the form of spatulas. Several black satin pelisses have two pelerine-capes, bordered with rûches of tulle and broad blond.

Some silk hats have appeared, the colour of the marshmallow-blossom; as have also those of velvet, of an iron-grey; others of blue satin, ornamented with one very long, curled feather, fixed on the right side of the crown by a bow of satin ribbon. Satin hats, whether rose-coloured, blue, or white, have a demi-veil of blond, and are ornamented with a long plume, formed of several feathers grouped together. Those black velvet hats, which are without feathers, are generally ornamented with yellow satin ribbons, striped with black, ponçeau and blue, or pink and black. When hats are of two colours, or if lined with a colour different from that of the hat itself, the plumage which ornaments them is always of the two colours, intermingled. Some hats of black velvet are quite round, and are placed very much on one side.

Dresses of cherry-coloured satin, and of pink crape, have short sleeves, made very full. A yellow crape dress has appeared, embroidered with black wreaths of flowers, in stripes. The bodies of some black satin dresses are made to draw, en blouse: a bias fold of velvet is generally placed at the border of these gowns. Dresses of iron-grey cachemire, are bordered with a very broad bias, above which are three rouleaux of satin, at about three fingers' breadth distant from each other. This trimming ascends higher than the knee; indeed, the trimmings on all dresses are carried very high, and the waists are very long; the corsages cut very low on the shoulders. Dresses of blue and of rosecoloured poplin are trimmed with dark

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