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Published by GB Whittaker for la Belle Assemblée N 32 New Series April1.1828.

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Published ty. O. B Wuttaker for La Belle Assemblel. N? 32. New Serves April 11828.

Hats of white, or of coloured, gros des Indes, have very large brims, and are ornamented with a weeping-willow feather, of the same colour as the hat. This plumage is fixed at the top of the crown by a rosette; the ends of which advance both to the right and left, to the centre of the brim: the ends are concealed by a rosette. Demi-veils are indispensable auxiliaries to déshabille hats. On black hats they are of black blond, and white on those that are coloured. The crowns of all hats, whether of velvet, crape, or satin, are generally made one side lower || than the other. The bows are very large, and formed of broad ribbon, which seem, sometimes, to fasten together a plume of fancy feathers, shaped and cut like the leaves of a pine-apple. Coloured hats of gros de Naples are often seen trimmed with ornaments in the form of crescents. These are lined with white satin.

over her long gloves; the fashion has become too common with us, as well as in England; but, when the glove is taken off, the French lady has five bracelets on each arm. The corsages are cut square, and are most admired when with a drapery across the bust, or with fullness, puckered, horizontally.

Diamonds, in the last-mentioned style of dress, generally compose the headdress. The most fashionable ornament of this precious kind consists of ears of corn, with very long stalks. Flowers and blond mingled, frequently compose the coiffeure of young ladies. When those articles are well and tastefully disposed, the coiffeure is both graceful and becoming. Small flowers of gold are also favourite ornaments on the hair. Bérets, of cherrycoloured velvet, are much admired, and have a bandeau of pearls across the forehead, with an ornament in front, en giranAt some few evening parties which dole, of diamonds; a long white willow have lately taken place, I have seen many feather falls over on one side as low as dresses, of plain tulle, ornamented with the neck. A bandeau of emeralds is often ribbons, which depended from the waist worn over a head-dress in hair. Someto the border of the skirt. These ribbons times I have seen a wreath of flowers, were terminated by a small bow, a bouquet || placed very low over the forehead, and of flowers, or a bunch of marabouts. One then elevated in an arch on each side, so tulle dress was encircled round the waist as to discover a profusion of curls. Bows by a gold band, finished by a little wheat- of coloured gauze ribbon on the hair are sheaf in gold, which depended from a still in favour, at concerts and social cordon, as low as to the puckering at the evening parties. Bandeaux of cameos are border of the dress. Another very pretty always placed obliquely across the hair, dress was of white crape, ornamented in or else they have a point on the forehead, front with three bouquets placed diagonally || à la Marie Stuart. from the border of the skirt as far as the knee. These bouquets were formed of pomegranate blossoms, with long leaves of gold. Dresses of coloured satin are trimmed with three rows of scalloped ornaments crossed over each other. This trimming is much admired for its novelty. Sometimes the third row of points is headed by another, the points of which stand up, and are separated from the others by a braid of satin. At the Opéra-buffa I saw a lady with white crape sleeves to a dress of green velvet: these sleeves were entwined, from the elbow to the wrist, with a chain of gold, which supplied the place of bracelets. On dresses of black satin are generally seen a superb collar of blond, à la Chevalière. In full dress every lady wears short sleeves, but no woman of real elegance now puts her bracelets

A most extraordinary set of ornaments is now the rage. I cannot refrain from calling this fashion ridiculous. Ear-rings, bracelets, &c., are of gold; but the most extravagant of all is the necklace, composed of a number of little bells, formed exactly like those of our cathedrals. The little clapper, in every bell, produces, at each movement, a slight noise announcing the presence of the wearer of this singular ornament. All the bells are united by a chain: two, larger than the others, form the ear-pendants; and large gold pins, at the end of each one of which are bells of gold, compose the head-dress.

The favourite colours are Navarino-red, camels'-hair-brown, green, of all tints, particularly the olive; gold-colour, blue, cherry-colour, and pearl-grey.

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course between Portugal and England did not occur sometimes for several weeks together, he nevertheless wrote his Sunday letter, so that a packet often conveyed four or five letters together to his mother. These letters his grateful parent preserved; and she delighted in reading them in the circle of her friends at Bath."

These volumes are dedicated to Mr. Huskisson. That they are highly valuable, must be admitted, were it only from the fact, that most of the speeches which they contain "have had the signal and exclusive advantage, of the personal revision of Mr. Canning." We may add, that Mr. Therry's portion of the labour has been very ably executed. He tells us that

Ar length the long-expected tribute- || Lisbon, even when opportunities of intera proud and glorious tribute to the memory of the deceased statesman, as an orator, has been paid in “ The Speeches of the Right Hon. George Canning; with a || Memoir of his Life, by R. Therry, Esq., of Gray's Inn, Barrister at Law, in Six Volumes." Last year, we presented the readers of LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE with all, or nearly all, that could be known of Mr. Canning's private and literary life:* of his political career, perhaps, the time has not arrived for viewing it in a calm, dispassionate, and impartial light. Mr. Therry writes with the warmth of a partizan, rather than with the coolness of a philosopher; but this will not be alleged against him as a fault, by the admirers of Mr. Canning. In fact, when a man feels his subject warmly and honestly, he is entitled to the privilege of expressing himself strongly. Mr. Therry's division of Mr. Canning's political progress into three distinct eras, is judicious: the first, commencing from his entrance into Parliament in 1793, and extending to the death of Mr. Pitt, in 1806; the second, comprehending the interval between the death of Mr. Pitt and that of the Marquess of Londonderry, in 1822; the third, embracing the period from his accession to office, as Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, in 1822, to the final close of his life in 1827. Upon Mr. Canning's political conduct or opinions, we shall not venture to touch; but, of his private character, Mr. Therry has recorded one trait, so truly amiable, that it would be an act of injustice to dismiss it silently from our notice. He " not only paid a yearly visit to his mother at Bath, where she resided, but made it a rule, which he invariably observed, to write to her every Sunday. So strictly did he observe this rule of addressing a weekly letter to his mother, that, during his embassy at the Court of

• Vide vol. vi. page 115.

Mr. Canning not only meditated his speeches, but composed carefully (whether on paper or in his memory matters not) the passages of effect. His exquisite sense of the elegance of style_of the precise value of words and of oratorical collocation and cadence will be felt and admired in the speeches revised by him—and discerned in those that remain in a state less perfect. His printed speeches present the orator, with more interest and fidelity than any other published speeches, excepting Burke's, who wrote his for the press-fortunately for posterity and his own fame. Mr. Canning, however, will not be found always equal to himself; but as it is the condition of mediocrity not to exceed and its privilege not to descend below itself_so inequality is the attribute of genius from the father of poetry and eloquence down to this day.

A portion of Mr. Therry's character of Mr. Canning's eloquence we must also insert:

He had studied with a quick and congenial feeling those severe and eternal models the remains of ancient eloquence. His elegance of expression was fastidious, without weakening its force-his wit was not so elaborately-concentratedly brilliant as Sheridan's but it was more prompt, redundant, and disposable and, if it may be so said, more logical-whilst his ridi

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