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tially high; the body Anglo-Greek, and

among the folds.

lerine of fine India muslin, beautifully embroidered; a sautoir of striped silk, in different colours, is tied round the throat; but not in a bow; the ends are spread out on each side of the bust, and confined un

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The béret turbans are

over the bust and shoulders, a double pe- || immensely large; they are ill calculated for the opera, and every public spectacle, where, however, they are, we are sorry to say, worn, and tolerated; which they ought not to be, since they impede the view worse than any moderate-sized hat. These der the belt or sash. A few dresses of extraordinary coiffeures are either of black black velvet have been seen, and are trim- || velvet, or of a Modena-red; a fine, rich med with bias rouleaux of black satin. colour, but the most unbecoming of all These gowns, which are for evening dress, reds, when placed too near the face. On are made low, and are much cut away at the summit of the crowns of the new bérets the shoulders. Black lace dresses have is a bow, with very long puffs, lined with bodice of satin, made tight to the shape; satin; two ends of which descend on each having a stomacher in front, and buttoned side, from the head to the sash. The behind with a row of jet buttons. Dresses study of ridiculous and unbecoming headof gros des Indes are much in favour for dresses seems attended with complete sucyoung persons. This silk hangs well on cess; but so it is, and we must record the figure, and though the small pattern what is most in fashion. The hair of our which runs over it, of the same colour, is more youthful females, without these disingeniously wrought, there is a flimsiness guises, is beautifully arranged, and is truly and unfinished appearance in the material, || refreshing to the eye of taste, and the adwhich we do not admire. A gown never mirer of loveliness. There appears to be looks new, even on the first time of wear- no decided style requisite for the disposal ing it. We saw one of pearl-grey, which of this charming attraction; but nature, looked much better than those of more that most skilful handmaid, seems to point lively colours: it was trimmed with out to the fair possessor of this her own flounces, cut at the edges in scallops; the gift, whatever mode will suit her features flounces were four, and reached as high as best; and this she adopts, always preservthe knee. Purple and crimson velvet ing, however, that style of fashion which dresses, trimmed with white blond, are ex- every sensible and well-bred female knows pected to prevail at evening parties, as the she ought to comply with; at the same cold weather sets in: at present there have time never feeling the necessity of conbeen no grand, full-dress parties; at least,|| verting herself into a fright. Caps, for none that afforded any novelty. The same half dress, of rose-coloured silk net, are may be said of balls; though among the much admired: they are somewhat in the dresses for the Christmas festivals and the cornette form, and are trimmed with gosnew year, the votaries of Terpsichore seem samer fringe these caps are placed very much to admire a dress of pink crape over backward. white satin. This dress is trimmed with pink satin rouleaux, and crape foliage; each leaf bound round with satin. These leaves, ingeniously united, form the short sleeves. The body is made à la Vierge; with a stomacher in front, formed by narrow bands across, of pink satin. White crape dresses, trimmed with broad bias folds of satin, are also in favour for ball dresses.

The favourite colours are pink, goldcolour, Christmas, or holly-green, Osagesbrown, Clarence-blue, jonquil, and vermilion.

Cabinet of Taste,

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN
COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

Dress hats are of white satin, trimmed with blond, and often with coloured ribbon. The plumage which ornaments these hats is superb; generally of the weeping-willow kind, and are of white and the colour of the ribbon, intermingled. Velvet turbans || have much gold and silver introduced latter, in his turn, laughs at him who has

THE traveller who has been through Asia, thinks he has seen nothing, who has only been up the Mediterranean; and the

merely visited the continent. Thus it is yellow: these are lined with the same. with fashion: your inhabitants of May They are sometimes ornamented with Fair and St. James's, think not much of small feathers grouped together, en pathe new-titled nobility residing at that naches. Rose-coloured hats of gros de part of the town, once generally known by Naples are trimmed with very large bows the name of Mary-le-bone: the east side of the same, with very long loops. Someof Temple Bar they do not deign to speak times a white blond is added to the edge of. I heard one of my country women reof the brim; and this is surmounted, mark the other day to a lady, "My dear where the blond is set on, by a broad bias friend, how should you know any thing fold of rose-coloured satin. In carriages, of fashion, that live in Le Marais?" Now, and at the Opera-Buffa, one long white really, there are some very charming || feather, en saule pleureuse, is added. Many modes which have been invented in that || black velvet hats are now ornamented quarter, and eagerly copied in the Chaussée || with ribbons of a light colour. Yellow d'Antin; and for the out-door costume, ribbons striped with green are very fa the new mantles of black satin, lined with || shionable. Hats of Swedish blue gros de cherry-colour, first made their appearance || at Le Marais ! The plaits down the front of the new pelisses commence from the shoulder, and give a great fulness to the bust. Females who have much en bon point do not look well in them; but they wisely avoid having points on the epaulettes, as they make them appear enormous in size. Many of these pelisses are worn without any belt or sash; a simple ribbon, carelessly tied, just marking out the waist. Many satin mantles have the capes trimmed round with black blond. Broad satin ribbons tie these cloaks round the throat, the ends falling as low as the knee, and terminating in a bow. Many pelisses of gros de Naples are fastened by gold buckles, in the centre of two puffs of gros de Naples, bound with satin. The sleeves are also fastened by bracelets, or bands of the same material as the dress; and these are also fastened by buckles. A most elegant carriage visiting dress is a pelisse of rose-coloured, watered gros de Naples, bound with white satin, and ornamented with mother-of-pearl buckles placed in the centre of rose-coloured bows, lined with white satin, which close the front of the skirt. The corsage is quite plain in front, and at the back. The epaulettes, which are trimmed round with blond, are long, and in the shape of a heart. There is no collar, but the place is supplied by a full ruff of blond. A Boa tippet of marabout is worn with this elegant pelisse.

Naples are lined with white; and round the crown are placed rosettes without ends; half white and half blue, edged with narrow blond. Round the crown of a hat of watered gros de Naples, the colour ponçeau, I have seen two bands cut in bias, edged with blond. There are num bers of satin hats of English-green; some of which are lined with violet-coloured satin; round the crown is a scalloped band; and on one side a bouquet of violet coloured feathers. The lining of some green hats is of black velvet; and the edge of the brim is bordered with a rûche of tulle. Two large bows, half of green satin, and the other half of black gauze ribbon, are placed on each side of the crown; the bow on the right side fastens together a plume of black and green feathers. Hats of rose-coloured plush are ornamented with black blond and black feathers. I have seen, round the crown of these hats, five or six feathers.

Dresses of poplin, the colour Swedishblue, are much in request. They are trimmed at the bottom with deep flounces, each headed by narrow quilling. Gowns of gros de Naples have a pelerine with ends drawn through the sash, or belt: these pelerines are scalloped at the edges, though a few are seen bordered with a full quilling. Levantine, poplin, and merino are favourite materials in the gown department. Osagine-gauze is worn at evening dress parties; and gowns of this material are generally trimmed with There are seen in the public walks flounces of broad blond, and otherwise orsome blue satin hats, trimmed with gauzenamented with gauze ribbons striped with ribbon, with a demi-veil of white blond. satin; flowers loop up the blond flounces, Some hats are of plush, the colour giraffe- in elegant drapery, A very pretty bouquet

is worn with such a dress, called à la Duchesse, and is placed in a sash with long ends. Long sleeves, which those ladies wear who are peculiarly susceptible of cold, are, notwithstanding, of a texture so fine, that they set off the turn of the arm to the best advantage: there is, certainly, much warmth in them, though it is not apparent. I am informed that this tissu is used for under-stockings; in the fear that wearing cotton or thread, under silk, might make the leg appear too thick. I have seen a very pretty fawn-coloured dress of merino, trimmed with three bias folds of gros de Naples, of the same colour. Above these folds was a narrow rouleau of gros de Naples, entwined by an elegantly wrought silk trimming. The belt was a band of gros de Naples, finished at each edge by the same sort of trimming, and terminated by two tassels, depending from a silk cordon which tied it in front, and which fell as low as the knee. Poplin dresses are often worked in flat embroidery, in the same manner as those of gros de Naples. Dresses worn in home costume are generally grey or brown.

Bows of gold and silver gauze ribbon are a prevalent ornament on the hair: they are affixed to a full and rich plait of gold cordon, which is placed on the head in any mode that fancy may suggest, and this forms a very elegant coiffeure. Dress hats are of velvet, of various colours, or

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namented with long, white feathers; several of which are placed very backward, on one side. However, I saw one with two long, flat feathers, in front of the crown, fastened in the middle by a band of velvet; one towered over the summit of the head, the other fell over the neck. Small dress caps of rose-coloured tulle are very pretty; they are bordered with a very narrow blond, set on quite straight. The cap is placed very backward; and a wreath of silver wheat and rose-buds lies on the hair. Bérets of green velvet are ornamented with large puffs of gold or silver ribbons: a béret, at a fashionable party, was of ponçeau-coloured velvet, ornamented with two bunches of gold wheat on the right side, with another attached to the opposite side, which fell over the cheek. The elevated style of dressing the hair is prodigious. The tresses which form the chignon are brought up together higher than the high gallery of the comb which fastens them: the Apollo's knot is formed of one large puff, or of two, and three small ones. In evening dress, turbans are worn of gold tissue, with silk flowers: they have a diadem in front, composed of gold cordon. Dahlias, heath, and the tops of asparagus, are favourite ornaments on the heads of young persons.

The favourite colours are Swedish-blue, green, rose-colour, English-red, giraffeyellow, and cherry-colour.

Monthly View

OF

NEW PUBLICATIONS, MUSIC, THE ENGLISH AND FOREIGN DRAMA, THE FINE ARTS, LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INTELLIGENCE, &c.

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So great has been the influx of new works within the past month, that, to keep pace with the progress of publication, we must, in numerous instances, confine ourselves to little more than a mere expression of opinion. Sorry are we, however, to remark, that, by far the greater portion of the works alluded to belong not to the higher classes of literature, nor are they of the first order of merit in their || class. But we are under the necessity of receiving and of noticing such as offer.

One really valuable performance, new to the English reader, presents itself in "The History of Painting in Italy, from the Period of the Revival of the Fine Arts to the End of the Eighteenth Century; Translated from the original Italian of the Abate Luigi Lanzì, by Thomas Roscoe." This work is in six octavo volumes; and at a period like the present, when a knowledge as well as a love of the Fine Arts is rapidly diffusing itself over the kingdom, we know not how Mr. Roscoe

could have conferred a higher obligation upon his country, than by giving it an English dress. Lanzi's production has long been a standard book of study and of reference upon the continent. "The History of Painting," observes its author, "is the basis of connoisseurship; by combining it, I supersede the necessity of referring to many books; by abbreviating it, I save the time and labour of the student; and by arranging it, in a proper manner on every occasion, I present him with the subject ready prepared and developed before him." It would not be easy to give a just and general character of the work in fewer words than has been done by the Cavalier Boni, the friend and confidant of the author.

It brings into full light the leading professors of the art, exhibits at due distance, those of the second class, and only glances at mediocrity and inferiority of character, insomuch as to fill up the great pictoric canvas with its just lights and shades. The true cause of the decline and revival of the art at certain epochs are pointed out, with those that contribute to preserve the fine arts in their happiest lustre: in which, recourse to examples, more than to precepts, is strongly recommended. The best rules are unfolded for facilitating the study of different manners, some of which are known to bear a resemblance, though by different hands, and others are opposed to each other, although adopted by the same artist, a species of knowledge highly useful at a period when the best productions are eagerly sought after at a high rate. It is a history, in short, worthy of being placed at the side of that on the literature of Italy, by Tiraboschi, who having touched upon the fine arts at the outset of his labours, often urged his ancient friend and colleague to dilate upon a subject in every way so flattering to the genius of Italy; to Italy which, however rivalled by other nations in science and literature, stands triumphant and alone in its creative mind of art. It is, however, difficult to convey a just idea of a work composed upon so enlarged and complete a scale, which embraces a period of about six centuries, and fourteen Italian schools, but treated with such rapidity and precision, as to form in itself a compendium of whatever we meet with in so many volumes of guides, catalogues, descriptions of churches and

palaces, and in so many lives of artists through

out the whole of Italy.

To characterize a compilation so varied and multifarious in its nature, as "Nichols's Progresses of James I.,” would not easily be practicable, otherwise than No. 37.-Vol. VII.

in general terms. In the course of its publication, the work has been repeatedly mentioned by us in terms of praise, as combining much that is rare, curious, and interesting. All that remains for us is to announce its termination-that it is now complete in Twenty Parts-that, from its commencement to its close, the task of editorship has been most ably and satisfactorily performed.

"The Clubs of London, with Anecdotes of their Members, Sketches of Character and Conversations," in two post octavo volumes, will have numerous readers; and those readers-the lovers of wit, humour, and drollery in particular-will be abundantly gratified. The author is a sensible and clever, a well informed, and good-tempered man: we regret only that he-or rather the cast of his anecdotesis occasionally a little coarse. We can venture to indulge in only one brief extract-the origin of the celebrated Beefsteak Club, which arose out of a visit paid to Rich, the famous purveyor of pantomimic exhibitions, in the year 1735:

Whilst Rich was thus employed, his atelier, a small room in the theatre, was almost as much frequented as Canova's or Thorwaldsen's in our days. Every one seemed anxious to be admitted to see him at his interesting labours. Amongst these were several men of rank and wit; for Rich's colloquial oddities were much relished. what advanced in years, Hogarth, Sir James The celebrated Lord Peterborough, then someThornhill, &c. &c., were of the number. At these visits, he never intermitted his labours, nor his strain of facetious remark. Upon one occasion, accident having detained the Earl much later than usual, he found Rich's chit-chat it was two in the afternoon; when he observed so agreeable, that he was quite unconscious that the man of pantomime spreading a cloth, then coaxing his fire into a clear culinary flame, and proceeding with great gravity to cook his own beef-steak on his own gridiron. The steak sent up a most inviting incense, and my Lord could further supply was sent for; and a bottle or two not resist Rich's invitation, to partake of it. A of excellent wine from a neighbouring tavern, prolonged their discourse to a late hour. But so delighted was the old peer with his entertain

ment, that on going away, he proposed renewing it at the same place and hour on the Saturday following. He was punctual to his engagement, and brought with him three or four friends, "men of wit and pleasure about town," as Mr. Bayes would call them and so truly festive was the

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meeting, that it was proposed that a Saturday's club should be held there, whilst the town remained full.

A sumptuary law, even at this early period of the society, restricted the bill of fare to beefsteaks, and the beverage to port wine and punch. Thus the corner stone of the Sublime Society was laid. But the original gridiron upon which Rich had broiled his solitary steak, being insufficient in a short time for the supernumerary worshippers in the temple of Beef and Liberty, the relic was enshrined as one of the tutelary and household divinities of the club. Fortunately it escaped the fire which consumed Covent Garden, a few years since, and now presents itself, encircled with its motto, and suspended from the ceiling, to every eye, which can spare a wandering glance from the beaf-steak smoking before it.

by Henry Neele," in three rather thick and closely printed volumes, is dedicated to the King, as a work "illustrative of the romantic Annals of England, from the Norman Conquest to the Restoration; a period," observes the author," which presents no era more illustrious in art, in science, in literature, and in arms, than his Majesty's own glorious regency and reign." The former epoch, Mr. Neele informs us, he selected "as a good startingpost, which would not carry him too far into the mist and gloom of antiquity,and the latter as a point to stop at before he could become involved in any of the debateable matters which are agitated in the present day. The reign of every The long announced Parliamentary sovereign is endeavoured to be illustrated Speeches of Mr. Canning, corrected by by at least one tale, and an Historical the hand of the deceased minister him- Summary of the leading events of each self, with a portrait and memoir, in six reign, is prefixed to the Tale which refers volumes, has not yet appeared; but the to it." The plan of the work, which we publication, which cannot fail to excite consider to be unobjectionably good, is great interest in the political world, is, we thus very correctly stated; with the exebelieve, nearly ready. In the interim, cution, the fastidiousness of our taste is we are presented with a hastily-written not, perhaps, quite satisfied. The task, "Memoir of the Right Honourable George however, was extremely difficult; and by Cunning, late Premier of England, with || few, probably, could it have been perhis Parliamentary Orations, his Poems, formed more ably than by Mr. Neele. In Essays, &c.; by Leman Thomas Rede, Esq., the three volumes, we count twenty-nine Professor of Elocution," in a single octavo tales, of varied length, and very unequal volume. Allowing for circumstances, this in merit: some of them are admirable ; volume is very creditable to the compiler. some are deficient in dramatic effect; Combined with much laughable and and others are without that depth of pagood-humoured satire, "Whitehall, or the thos which is essential to a highly-wrought Days of George IV.," constitutes a broad work of fiction. The author tells us caricature, or rather burlesque, of modern || that, in these tales, although the aid of historical novels. "This singular work," || fiction has been employed, "no imporobserves the writer, assuming the office tant historical event has been falsified." of editor, 66 was printed in Teyoninhaka- || In the composition of such pieces, this is waranenopolis, capital of the great em- a rule which ought never to be departed pire of Yankeedoodolia, in the year 2227,|| exactly four hundred years from the present date. The name of the author I do not know. How it came into my hands, it were useless to divulge; but I think it will be found to give as graphic and correct a picture of the affairs of the present day, as the general current of our London historical novels give of the events of four hundred years ago, when they treat may lead to a more general perusal of of them." The object of this work has English history, especially to the invalubeen grossly misunderstood by some of able, but neglected productions of the our profound weekly critics. Evidently, || ancient annalists and chroniclers." One the writer is capable of far better things. of Mr. Neele's most beautiful tales-The "The Romance of IIistory-England- Spectre's Voyage-appeared in one of the

from; but the volumes before us are, if we may so express ourselves, in many instances, too historical. That is, they possess the dryness of mere history, without the stirring interest which ought to have been imparted by the creative powers of imagination. Yet, altogther, the work is really good; and we doubt not, that, agreeably to the aim of its author, it

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