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- “A Letter to the Right Honourable, the Earl of Aberdeen, K.T., President of the Society of Antiquaries, on the Earpediency of attaching a Museum of Antiquities to that Institution;” by J. H. Markland, Esq., one of the Directors of the Society. Surely rt must seem strange that the Society of Antiquaries should have existed for so many years—it was founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth—without a museum or repository of antiquities. Such, however, appears to be the fact. Mr. Markland’s well-written letter has brought the subject fully under the consideration of the society. “ Punch and Judy; with Illustrations drawn and engraved by George Cruikshank, accompanied by the Dialogue of the Puppet
Show, an Account of its Origin, and of Puppet-Shows in England,” will be deemed a valuable present by our juvenile and laughter-loving friends. Indeed, the genius of George Cruikshank could hardly have been engaged upon a more favourable subject. Another acceptable present for the same class will be found in “ Whims and Oddities for the Young, with Humorous Illustrations by H. Heath.” “The Birth-Day, with other Tales, by Elizabeth Frances Dagley, Authoress of Fairy Favours, &c.,” may also be safely recommended for the simple and pleasing style in which it is written, for its variety of subject, and for the excellent practical character of its lessons.
A SUMMARY OF FASHIONS FOR THE LAST SIX MONTHS.
THough the temperature was mild at the conclusion of the year 1827, we could not call it propitious to health, as the continual wet deprived us of much of the exercise of walking. We looked forward to the opening of the year 1828 for some clear frosts and dry weather; but the month of JANUARY shewed, at its commencement, the same tearful aspect. However, we will not dwell on a subject so gloomy. Fashion came arrayed in all the gay diversity of a modish winter; gave spirit and advantage to our manufactures; and the splendid evening party, with the balls, concerts, and other festivities of the most festive season, enlivened the gay metropolis; and the trophies of art were proudly raised, for a time, over the then dormant attractions of nature. The dresses for paying morning visits on the arrival of friends, distinguished by their rank, in London, were superb, and boasted much novelty. ... We call the attention of our fair countrywomen to the Jac-simile of a dress for the above-mentioned purpose, in an engraving for January, at page 28. The gown is of Cla•rence-blue poplin, with two deep scalloped flounces, bound with satin: over this was worn a mantle of black satin, lined with amber plush; and a large pelerine, trimmed with broad black blond,
falls over the back and shoulders. The cloak is tied at the throat with broad amber ribbon, with very long ends, each terminating by a rosette. The hat, though novel, was not of the most becoming kind: it was turned up on each side, like a riding-hat: it was Clarence blue velvet, and ornamented with two white ostrich feathers. A favourite walking dress was a pelisse of stone-coloured gros de Naples, with a broad bias fold round the border, and down each side of the skirt in front; the folds cut at the upper edge, in points; the points edged round with black velvet. The pelisse was fastened down with full rosettes of gros de Naples; the body made plain, with a double pelerine cape, pointed and bound with black velvet. The bonnet is of black velvet, trimmed with pink ribbon, chequered in hair stripes of black. Black shoes of kid, with pearl-grey gaiters, complete this dress.-Wide an engraving of a Walking Dress, page 28. The ball and evening dresses now began to wear that gay and brilliant appearance always to be seen in fashionable winter costume. One of the dresses for the ballroom was of amber-crape, with two rows of double flounces, scalloped at the edges, and bound and headed by rouleaua of satin; the body made slightly en gerbe, the sleeves short, and very full, and divided in the centre by bows of yellow satin ribbon. A falling tucker of rich blond falling over the bust. The headdress, consisting of the hair elegantly arranged, in full curls, braids, and bows, with detached bouquets of flowers. Necklace and ear-rings, a l'antique, to correspond, with bracelets of gold and rubies.— Wide a Ball Dress for January, page 28. An evening dress, which had a very beautiful effect by candlelight, was of bright Indian red, figured over in a Chinese pattern, bordered by two pointed flounces, edged round with a valuable feather trimming, composed of the small feathers of rare foreign birds; the upper flounce, headed by a band of the same feather trimming. This had the appearance of a fine, soft fur: the colours were yellow, tinged with a mixture of green. The corsage crossed over the bust in drapery, a la Circassienne; and full, short sleeves of white satin were worn under long ones, which were transparent, of white Japanese gauze; the latter confined at the wrists by two bracelets; that next the head, a broad plain gold bar, d l’Indostannée, fastened with a cameo, or a large emerald surrounded by pearls: the bracelet above was composed of a row of very large oriental pearls. The hair arranged in very full curls on each side of the face, and short at the ears; adorned with puffs of gauze of bird-of-paradise yellow, or saffron colour, and an elegant plume of white feathers.-See an engraving of an Evening Dress for January, page 28. In half-dress, as well as in home attire, silk dresses were seen in this month to be most prevalent. They were either of Madras silk, or gros de Naples ; they were trimmed with full narrow flounces, and often in pointed festoons; the sleeves en gigot, with a deep cuff at the wrist. For home costume, these dresses were made particularly high, and the body finished in front in the Anglo-Greek style. Black, purple, and other coloured velvet dresses, were often seen trimmed with flounces, in festoons of rich white blond. At dinner parties, gros de Naples was the most prevalent material for dresses. These were trimmed in various modes; but ritches, set on, in deep sharp points round the
border, formed the most favourite ornament. - Gowns of Indian chintz, with muslin pelerines, splendidly embroidered, prevailed much in home costume. On ball dresses were frequently seen, especially on those of tulle, deep white satin points, d la Vandyke, surrounding the border. Turbans were much in favour for matrons: they were of the Armenian form, and often of crimson velvet, intermixed with silver gauze. Dress hats, still too capacious, and always in the way, were, nevertheless, much worn at dinner parties. One or two were seen, and endeavoured to be introduced for this style of parure, by two ladies of very good taste, of moderate and becoming dimensions: they were of white satin, tastefully trimmed with gauze and blond; lappets of which floated gracefully over the shoulders. A beautiful plume of
white marabouts, and paddi feathers of
their own native colour, adorned these hats. The PARIsIAN ladies were very fond of dresses made of what they called Athenian cloth. One deep flounce surrounded the border of a dress of this material; the gown made high, fastening behind, and beautifully finished round the throat by a satin rouleau, disposed so as to resemble foliage in outline. This ornament was surrounded by a triple ruff of fine lace. The Cachemire dresses, of home manufacture, were often worn at evening parties: some of these were embroidered in black floize silk, especially when the dress was of bright rose colour, which had a very striking and beautiful effect. Two broad flounces, falling over each other, ornamented the border of the skirt, and were each edged with embroidery; the body fitted tight to the shape, and was worked across the bust in separate ornaments of black silk, forming a stomacher. Transparent long sleeves, of white crêpe-lisse, with rose mancherone, worked at the cleft edges with black, completed the dress. Poplins, plain and figured, with chintzes of very striking colours, were much in request, not only for home attire and halfdress, but also for the theatres, and other evening spectacles. Most of the corsages were made in drapery. For full dress, satin, painted in Indian patterns, and sometimes spotted with gold, constituted a superb and expensive costume, generally select to the higher classes, from the latter quality. The newest head-dresses were ponceaucoloured berets, with long ends, of platted ribbon, of black and ponceau, depending as low as the knee; truly ridiculous, and giving to the wearer, with the unbecoming size of the beret, an almost crazy appearance. Many young persons revived the Chinese mode of dressing the hair; but that style happily expired again with this month. Bows of gauze ribbon, striped with gold, and turbans ornamented with flowers or feathers, were the favourite head-dresses of the ladies belonging to the French court. The dress-hats were either of white satin, watered gros de Naples, or crape. They were generally or— mamented with wreaths of flowers, elegantly disposed round the crown, in festoons. The favourite pelisses for walking were of merino; they were trimmed with bias folds, cut in notches; with falling collar, and capes. The mantles were often in very large chequers, the squares like those on a draft-board. These squares were black, on a light and lively ground. Scarf-shawls were of embroidered Cachemire, and many of the winter mantles were also richly embroidered. The silk and satin pelisses buttoned down the front, from the waist to the feet. When for the carriage, or the public walks, these buttons were of jet; and from each waist were placed seven buttons, up the small of the arm. Damask satin hats, lined with the same colour, in velvet, were among the novelties of this month. The crown of a hat of this sort was encircled with white satin, lined with velvet, the colour of the lining. When a hat was blue, its feathers and ornaments, ribbons, &c. were always of the same tint. Hats of white gros de Naples were trimmed with puffs of the same material, and a broad white blond was placed at the edge of the brim. Black velvet hats, however, for the promenade, claimed the pre-eminence; generally ornamented with black aigrettefeathers, and a profusion of ponceau and black, or jonquil and black chequered ribbon; the chequers consisting of black, hair stripes, on a brightly-coloured ground. No. 42.*-Vol. VII.
The English fashions for FEBRUARY began to discover a decided feature for the winter attire. Yet was the weather so mild as to its temperature, that white, especially among the young, was still prevalent. The matron, too, wore white, as well as her daughter; the materials only differed: the young lady wore tulle, or clear book-muslin; the mother, gros de Naples, or white satin. To give something of a wintry appearance, however, to the tulle dress, the border was trimmed with two broad rows of gauze, or tulle bouillons, confined by bias straps of blue satin, and headed by the same, formed into ornaments, composed of narrow rouleaua. The corsage was made plain, of white satin, and well marking out the shape. Fichts robings, however, gave a breadth to the front of the bust, which destroyed its grace, because, at all times, trop est trop. These were tastefully trimmed with blond, and rouleaux of blue satin; and the sleeves plain, very short, and very full. A beret of blue crêpe, adorned with bird-of-paradise plumes, completed this dress.-Vide an engraving of February fashions, at page 70. An opera dress, represented in the same plate as the above, is well worthy of the attention and admiration of our fashionable subscribers. The gown is of white satin, lightly trimmed at the border with white satin rouleaua, surrounding crape, en rosaces: the sleeves of this dress are long, and fit almost close to the arm. Over the shoulders is thrown a superb opera cloak of violet-coloured velvet, trimmed round with chinchilla. A very large pelerine mantelet cape falls just below the hip: this is quite plain, and of the same velvet as the cloak; over this falls a pelerine, much narrower, entirely of chinchilla. A turban of new crape, entwined with pearls, or with silver beads, was worn on the head. Evening dresses were much admired when of pink crape over satin of the same colour; trimmed with a broad puckering of gauze or crape, over which was scattered satin foliage. The body made low and close to the shape, and the tucker part surrounded by a row of points, falling over, edged with blond, set on rather full. The sleeves short, plain, and ex
tremely full. The head, with this dress, 2 U
* - was very tastefully arranged, but made ...too large, and too much elevated, not only by the disposal of the hair, but also of the ornaments. The curls were in very full clusters on each side of the face ; and the Apollo knot, consisting of three long puffs of hair, had the centre one surmounted by a white esprit feather. On the right and left side there was aiso placed an esprit, rather lower ; and long puffs, of pink, or of Aurora gauze, towered over the front; where the hair was divided by a splendid coronet, of gold and very large pearls—See an engraving of an Evening Dress, page 70. On the same plate is a ball dress, which we gave more for its singularity and novelty, than from any very great approbation. There is a chaste simplicity in dancing costume which we much more admire, and in which a young person seems more at her ease. It is also infinitely more elegant. We allude to tulle, or gauze, over white satin, and the hair arranged without heavy bows, or jewellery; with simply a few slowers for its ornament, or strings of pearls. This dress, which we represented of that beautiful and expensive material, painted Indian taffety, while the young lady may be quadrilling with light and airy step, does not appear so intrinsically good as it really is. The Apollo knot is still more elevated and spread out, than that on the evening head-dress, and imparts a painful idea, as it seems to weigh heavily on the crown of the youthful and agile votary of Terpsichore. This knot was confined by a regal coronet ornament of massive gold, set with rubies; and the full curls, on each side of the head, were divided on the forehead by a stiff and rather broad plait of hair. Silk pelisses this month were of ruby and other brilliant winter colours. Though the sleeves were still en gigot, they were not quite so capacious as formerly; neither were they stiffened out next the shoulder with whalebone or buckram, to give that deformity to the top of the arm which a lady would be very sorry to have bestowed on her by nature. The pelisses were finished by bias folds round the border; and were ornamented in the same manner down the front, where they closed, to the feet. A temporary pelerine cape, slightly
wadded, was worn of the same material as the pelisse. The mantles, or cloaks, were much improved, and were cut so as to set off the form, which, at the first appearance of these useful envelops, they rather tended to obscure. Some had sleeves attached to the arm-holes. Russian mantelets of fur continued to be worn over pelisses, and over high dresses of merino. The bonnets, though still outré as to size, were of a beautiful shape ; yet was this improvement not general; and many faces, even otherwise agreeable, were sadly disfigured by the wide umbrellashade of heavy black velvet, with bows, and bateaur ornaments, sticking out in every maniac-like direction. How could ladies, devoid not only of every outward attraction, but even of youth, presume to wear such head-gear P They did, however; and they rendered these hats and bonnets—what they, certainly, did not mean to do—perfect caricatures. We almost hoped they would be regarded as such ; but, no ; churches were darkened, pedestrians impeded, and horses startled, at the prevailing rage for the extravagant and grotesque. When a black velvet bonnet was trimmed with its own sable hue, the broad strings which tied it were invariably coloured. They looked very well with these strings tied slightly under the chin, as they imparted a liveliness to the sombre bonnet, and appeared like a cravat-scarf. Immense puffs also of coloured satin ribbon, richly striped in resplendent colours, were added by many ladies to their black bonnets. Feathers of the weeping-willow kind, with black esprit feathers, were often seen on carriage hats; but they were thought more elegant, when plain, for walking costume. Coloured satin hats, trimmed with ribbons of the same colour, chequered with black, were often seen in carriages. They were tied under the chin, either by a narrow ribbon, or a mentonmière of white blond, quilled on white satin ribbon ; which came forward, and confined the bonnet down each cheek, like the cap of a lancer. The strings, only used for ornament, hung down in a long loop. * Black for dresses was still in favour, at all times of the day, and almost in every
style of dress, Grey, lapis, and lavender