grey, with other chaste colours, were chiefly admired for gowns in gros de Na- || ples. Dresses of Cyprus crape, trimmed round the border with one simple rûche,|| were considered extremely elegant for evening and dress dinner parties. The corsage was made plain and low, with the tucker part surrounded by a broad falling ornament of blond. The sleeves of these dresses were long, and of the same material as the gown itself. A lady of distinction appeared at an elegant evening party in a dress of watered silk, of a pearl-grey, delicately embroidered with dead gold. Dresses for morning attire were of chintz; and so much were they in favour, that, with the addition of bracelets and elegant turbans, many ladies would retain them through the whole day, if they had devoted their leisure to home.

and black, when the hat or bonnet was of that sable hue.

For half-dress, gowns of merino, or of Cachemire, formed the reigning mode: one of merino, of cherry-colour, embroidered with black, was extremely pretty. Those dresses were generally made with a very wide stomacher, quite high, and were surmounted at the throat by a full ruff of tulle. Dresses of coloured gauze, richly striped with satin, were in favour for the ball-room. Black satin dresses were generally bordered with broad bias folds of velvet, cut in notches, the indentations edged round with narrow black blond, set on full. The dresses for walking were made short, but only conveniently so, for the humid weather, and by no means incorrect.

The berets were made flatter this month than usual. They were of gold gauze, placed backward, and very much on one side. Small, separate bouquets, of different flowers, among which the aloe-blossom most prevailed, were favourite ornaments on the hair of young ladies. Blond caps, when worn at the theatres, had not only

Caps, for receiving dinner parties at home, were of the turban kind, with long strings floating. They were adorned with beautiful sprigs of flowers, accordant in colour to that of the dress. Young persons wore in their hair bows of gauze and silver-a fashion we can never be brought to admire; they appear paltry in the ex-bouquets of flowers placed on them, but treme, and we trusted they would soon have been rejected by all ladies of good taste. The dress hats were of white crape, with white feathers, tipped with ponceau; and berets, at the opera and other places of fashionable resort, were as much in favour as ever. The caps fornamented with black blond and full-blown morning dress were of fine lace, and were ornamented with puffs of coloured gauze.

In PARIS, the pelisses continued much the same as in the preceding month. They were chiefly of gros de Naples, or satin, though some were of poplin. Those of velvet were few, and made very plain: || their large pelerine capes fell as low as the elbow.

Hats of green velvet were much admired. They were trimmed with a profusion of bows of satin, and also of velvet. The brims of these hats were large, and the crowns high. Some bonnets, of black satin, were lined and trimmed with cherry-colour. Black velvet hats were often seen ornamented with very long feathers. In déshabille, the hats had always the addition of a demi-veil of blond; white, if the hat were coloured;

sometimes short, white marabout feathers, tipped with pink. Among the various caprices suggested by Fashion was that of wearing asparagus as an ornament on the hair. Caps of rose-coloured satin, in treillage-work, formed of rouleaux and or

roses, prevailed much. Roses, mixed with marabout feathers, often formed a diadem, à l'Incas, round the hair, in evening dress: other ladies were seen with seven very long white feathers, placed one stage above the other. As this is only the proper court plume, it was rarely seen except in grande parure. The berets increased in favour, as in variety of shapes; all large, and many of them ridiculous. Turbans were an assemblage of black velvet and cherry-coloured crêpe-lisse.

Bouquets were universally worn at dress. parties, composed of artificial flowers. Silk stockings, with coloured clocks, were generally adopted at balls.

For MARCH-The carriage pelisses were chaste as to colour, and elegant in make. They fastened down the front of the skirt ́ with straps and gold buckles. The sleeves were en gigot. This description of pelisse

had no cape, or collar, except a Maltese collar of lace, which was surmounted by a triple ruff. The hat was of bird-ofparadise-yellow satin, lined with crimson velvet, and slightly ornamented with that material. While puffings of yellow ribbon, richly figured with black, and two white esprit feathers, one on the summit of the crown, on the right side, the other on the left, nearer to the face, completed the trimming.-Vide an engraving for a Carriage Dress for March, page 120.

aërophane: two rows of the same ornamented the border, en bouillons, over which were half-wreaths of thickly-clustered flowers, placed across, in bias: the body was of white satin, with drapery across the bust, à la Sévigné : the sleeves of the same crape as the dress, short and full; the fullness confined by half-wreaths of flowers, to correspond with those on the skirt. The hair arranged in clusters of curls on each side of the face; the bow on the summit small, consisting only of two loops of hair, and not much elevated; at the base of the bow, a white rose; and behind the rose, and towering above it, were scarlet and white, double garden poppies, with ears of corn, and spiral white flowers. See a Ball Dress, engraved for March, page 120.

We have given, in our engravings for this month, specimens of four different styles of dress. White, owing to the mildness of the season, was still in favour among the young: for half-dress, the pelisse-robe of gros de Naples prevailed; with poplin, and Indian chintzes, for

Shawls, as usual, at this season of the year, became much in request for walking dresses. With this envelop, a favourite gown was of camelopard-yellow gros de Naples, with one broad flounce. The shawl worn with it was of real Cachemire, and formed a beautiful contrast to the dress, being of a dark myrtle-green, with a splendid and broad border, of variegated colours. A bonnet, of becoming size and shape, was finished at the brim by a narrow, black blond, set on almost strait. The crown of the bonnet was delicately and tastefully ornamented with black velvet blond, and full-blown China-home costume. roses. See a Walking Dress, at page 120." The evening dresses were some of them superb; often of that expensive article, the Indian painted satin. In our March Number, we gave, at page 120, a representation of one of these dresses: the pattern was stripes of blue, on a white ground, and, between each stripe, spots of the most brilliant, variegated colours. The border of the skirt was ornamented by bouquets of marabout feathers, fastened together by rosettes of satin, the colour of the stripes. The body was made à la Circassienne, and the waist confined by a richly-figured blue ribbon. The hair arranged in the most luxuriant style, with curls and bows; and placed in front was a splendid diadem of large oriental pearls; beneath which, nearer to the forehead, was a plait of hair. Numerous marabout feathers were placed on the head, in different directions. A tippet, of the same plumage, was placed over the shoulders, with an antique fan of the same. The ear pendants were composed of three pearpearls each, en girandoles.— Vide an engraving, at page 120.

The most approved ball dresses were of the new light material, called crêpe

The head-dresses were various: blond caps, with long lappets, were much approved for home costume, and were even sometimes seen at dress parties; but seldom, except on very handsome matrons, who may be permitted to wear whatever they please. The turban-cap, however, for evening, was deemed most suitable and elegant for the middle-aged female. It had long ends of richly-striped ribbons flowing loose, and it was lightly adorned with small bouquets of wintry flowers. Berets were still in favour, both in their becoming and pristine shape, or experiencing the innovation of being excessively large, and totally differing as to form from the original head-dress: these were generally overshadowed by plumes of feathers.

The ball dresses of the PARISIAN belles were, this month, very elegant. They were of white tulle, very tastefully and richly trimmed with tulle bouillonné, and flowers in beautiful clusters. The evening dresses were of coloured crape; and the favourite mode of trimming them was with two broad flounces, edged with passementerie, three shades darker than the dress. Many of the trimmings on the skirts

of gowns ascended as high as the knee; the waists were long, and the gowns fell almost off the shoulders. The corsages of coloured satin dresses were made à la Grecque. The flounces on these dresses were broad, and festooned up with flowers. The trimming on ball dresses was generally simple: bias folds over a broad hem often constituted the style of ornament on the border.

Turbans, of silver gauze, or of ponceau satin, ornamented with a bird-of-paradise, formed a favourite evening head dress. The hair began to lower a little this month. The coloured berets were surrounded by feathers of the same hue; and those of white tulle excited much admiration, being very elegantly wound round by wreaths of heath, which terminated in branches on one side. Small blond caps were ornamented with marabouts, placed under the border, intermingled with flowers. There were seen some caps of rose-coloured silk, embroidered in black, with the border supported by roses and black flowers, intermingled. A fine head of hair was often seen simply ornamented with a gold or diamond arrow.

Black satin was a favourite material for pelisses. They were made with two pelerine capes, edged round with broad black blond.

Cloaks with sleeves, called Turkish mantles, were also much in request for out-door envelops: they were generally of that fine, soft cloth, called EuropeanCachemire; the pelerine capes, and the sides and border of the mantle, were embroidered in silk of the same colour as the cloak.

was marked by many elegancies of costume among the English ladies. The dresses for the opera frequently consisted of pelisse robes, cut low off the shoulders, and turned gracefully back, with a tassel on each side: they were trimmed with blond, and the robe was either of rubycoloured or black satin. Though like all other pelisse-robes, this dress flew open in front, and discovered the petticoat, || slightly fastened, from one side to the other, with rich silk cordons, forming chevrons over a petticoat of white satin. A rich tassel brought each double cordon to a point in the centre of it, which formed the chevron. The shoes were en gigot. Under the robe was worn a chemisettefichu, of very fine clear India muslin, laid in small plaits, and a double ruff of lace encircled the lower part of the throat. The turban worn with this dress was of velvet, the same colour as the robe, entwined with pearls, or jet beads, of which materials depended tassels over the left shoulder.

The ball dresses this month were not becoming; they were too Frenchified, and stiff in their appearance, for the well-made English female to adopt, or suffer to disguise her form, for any length of time. Over a white tulle petticoat were broad stripes of pink ribbon, edged with a narrow stripe; three shades darker, was a body, made as long as the waist would allow, pointed in front, like an old-fashioned pair of stays. Across the bust was a bouffont drapery à la Sévigné. This was of white net, the body being of pink satin, and a silk cordon encircling the waist, terminating in front by a tasMost of the hats, either for the carriage sel. The sleeves of such a dress, when or the promenade, either black or coloured, worn at an evening party, were long, of had a demi-veil at the edge, of blond: white tulle, and made very full, à la Mathey were frequently trimmed with rou- rie. The upper bouillon, next the shoulleaux of satin and blond; sometimes a der, adorned with stripes of pink, to corfeather was added. Coloured crape hats respond with those down the skirt. The were trimmed round the crown with very hair was becomingly arranged, and aplong puffs of ribbon; between the puffs, propriate to the ball-room; full-blown a bouquet of flowers, with long stalks. roses sparingly scattered on the rich clusMany black velvet hats were quite round, || ters of curls; but there was a stiffness in and placed much on one side; with a the arcades on the summit of the head, small group of short feathers under the formed of plaited hair. A bandeau of elevated side of the brim. pearls across the forehead gave, however, a softness to the countenance.-Vide an engraving of an Opera and a Ball Dress, for April, at page 166.

The month of APRIL, which generally brings together all the members of high and fashionable life into the metropolis,

The dress for home costume consisted they were chiefly confined to the youthof light-coloured taffety, made, like many ful. The broad, blond trimmings at the other dresses prevalent during this month, edge, took from their native simplicity; in the pelisse style: it was nearly as high || but, at the same time, gave to them an air as the throat, and the bust was finished, of novelty which was very agreeable; as, or rather rendered disproportionally wide, when the blond was white, it imparted a by fichu-robings. The skirt was trimmed softness to the countenance, always fasciround the border with one very broad bias || nating and attractive. fold, headed by a narrow rouleau; and, though the gown fastened behind, numerous rosettes were placed down the front, from the waist to the feet, en pelisse. The sleeves were à la Marie, with antique points at the wrists. A cap of black blond, the beauty of which was obscured by rouleaux of pink satin, was placed very backward, with pink strings, flowing, and a half-wreath of full-blown roses lying on the hair, in front.

The ladies of PARIS still wore, in outdoor costume, that frightful semblance of a serpent, the boa-tippet; but when the high dress, or pelisse, was of that fine cloth, called European Cachemire, they were laid aside; and a pelerine, the same as the dress, imparted sufficient warmth, without any other addition.

they were black on black hats, and white on those which were coloured. The crowns of almost all the new hats were lower on one side than on the other. When feathers were worn in hats, they were of the fancy kind, and cut to resemble the foliage of the pine-apple.

The hats were of white, of coloured gros des Indes, with large brims, and were often adorned with a long, weeping-willow The chilly weather, during a great part || feather, of the same colour as the hat. of April, made many ladies retain their || On déshabille hats, demi-veils were always dresses, which were trimmed with fur;|| regarded as an indispensable appendage: but then they were of the most delicate texture; such as chinchilla, unspotted ermine, or the costly skin of the little lightcoloured gibeline. Of this latter fur, a dress was trimmed, at the commencement of April, for the evening party, of which we have given a copy in our engravings || for that month, which may be seen in our second plate, at page 168. The dress is of the palest shade of stone-colour, in satin, and is trimmed round the border with three rows of light zibeline. The body is made à la vierge, and the tucker part encircled by a trimming of fur. Over short sleeves, en baril, the same as the dress, were long ones, en gigot, of crêpe-aërophane, surmounted by a double mancheron of satin, edged with fur.-A new opera hat, of pink satin, was worn with this dress, of an original form, but very becoming. On one side of the brim, in front, was a long point, which, turning back, was fastened to the crown; and that side of the hat became elevated. Under the brimmonds were in almost universal estimawas a plume of pink feathers, which taste- tion: ears of corn, of these valuable gems, fully filled up that side of the head; and were the favourite ornaments they comover the brim, which was brought down posed. The very young, however, preon the other side, was a plume of short served, as most suitable, their predilecfeathers, placed at the base of the crown. tion for flowers; and sometimes they Feathers and flowers were but little added a few puffings of blond, which, worn this month: the hats and bonnets when tastefully disposed, gave grace and were still very large and wide, both for lightness to the whole coiffeure. Small the carriage and promenade. A few cot-flowers of gold were often seen scattered tage bonnets made their appearance; but on the hair: and the matrons wore berets

Dresses for the evening party were frequently of plain tulle, ornamented with ribbons, which depended from the waist to the border on the skirt: each ribbon was terminated by a small bow, Dresses of coloured satin were frequently trimmed in rows of scallops, falling over each other -a trimming much admired for its novelty: a superb collar of blond, à la che◄ valière, always completed these dresses. The French ladies were now so fond of bracelets, that they often wore five on each arm; but it was reckoned very inelegant, as it certainly is, to wear them over long gloves.

In the article of head-jewellery, dia

of cherry-coloured velvet, with a bandeau of pearls across the forehead; with a girandole ornament in front, of brilliants. This head-dress was, as may be imagined,|| entirely for grande parure, as the beret was ornamented with a very long, white willow feather. Cameos, set en bandeaux, were || much admired on the hair: they were placed obliquely, or else with a point over the forehead, à la Marie Stuart.

stomacher, and the sleeves were uncom→ monly full: those à la Marie were evidently preferred to those en gigot. The carriage hats were often of white gros de Naples, trimmed with gauze and blond, and ornamented with bird-of-paradise yellow ribbons, and small field flowers, with two marabout feathers under the brim of the hat, on one side, with a short panache of the same kind of feathers on the same side of the crown. On the op→ posite side was one feather, rather longer, which fell over the left side of the brim,

style of costume, at page 212.

The jewellers invented, this month, a very extraordinary set of ornaments, || which met with much approbation from the Parisian ladies. The ear-rings, neck-||--Vide an engraving, representing this lace, and bracelets were all of gold. The necklace was composed of a number of The spring bonnets for the promenade little bells; the clappers of which, at were of unobtrusive, but becoming coevery movement of the fair wearer, pro- lours; such as Esterhazy, milk-chocolate, duced a slight noise, as did the two bells and Maccassa-brown. They were trim which formed the ear-pendants, and others med with ribbons of the most lively coon the hair, at the head of long gold pins. || lours, generally in rich satin stripes on a The fashions for MAY now began to white ground; and when this style of take, in London, a lively indication of bonnet was worn in carriage-airings, it spring. April took its departure in un- had generally a small plume of cock's usual and sudden warmth. Evening feathers, of the same tints as those found dresses were of tulle, over slight white in the ribbons. The few Leghorn bonnets satin, with the border of the tulle dress that appeared were of the village kind, elegantly trimmed by bias folds of satin, and were slightly trimmed with ribbons en clochettes. For grande parure, they were of a colour appropriate to the spring. delicately ornamented with gold. We found, however, in these dresses, a style of trimming the bust, which was inimical to all that light and sylph-like appearance which should always be observed in the ball-dresses of the young-(and who ought|| fichu-robing ornaments; the stomachers to dance who are not so?)-by the unnatural breadth given to the chest by the fichu-robings. They generally disguise, but particularly in the ball-room; and where these dresses appeared as equally in favour, as for the evening party. The sleeves were full and clear; their fullness confined, at intervals, by gold chains; and a broad Hindoostanee gold bracelet, || fastened by a cameo-head, encircled each wrist. When worn only at an evening party, this costume was completed by a turban, formed of white satin and crape, with a white feather drooping over one side, and a few short feathers on the summit of the crown.-See an engraving of an Evening Dress, for May, at page 212.

High dresses, for carriage costume, seemed more generally in favour than pelisses. They were very simply trimmed; the front of the bust was formed into a

The dresses, for demi-parure, were of sarcenet, or gros de Naples, in colours analogous to the early spring bonnets: the bodies were mostly in the Greek style, or finished in front, and at the back, with

of almost all dresses terminated in a point in front, at the base. Poplins, batiste, and tastefully-figured chintzes, formed the favourite materials for home dresses. Coloured crape dresses were often worn at dinner parties; and for that style of dress it was customary no longer to overshadow the head by a large dress-hat, but to have the hair elegantly arranged, and either adorned with jewels or flowers. If the lady were matronly, an elegant cap of blond, a turban, or a beret, constituted the head-dress.

White satin hats, with plumes of ostrich feathers, were often seen gracing the boxes at the Italian Opera. At splendid evening parties, turbans, of the Ottoman style, with a magnificent aigrette of diamonds in front, have been seen, and highly admired. The turban itself was of white and silver gauze, intermixed with