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tially high; the body Anglo-Greek, and among the folds. The béret turbans are over the bust and shoulders, a double pe- || immensely large; they are ill calculated lerine of fine India muslin, beautifully em for the opera, and every public spectacle, broidered ; a santoir of striped silk, in dif- || where, however, they are, we are sorry to ferent colours, is tied round the throat; say, worn, and tolerated; which they ought but not in a bow; the ends are spread out not to be, since they impede the view on each side of the bust, and confined un worse than any moderate-sized hat. These der the belt or sash. A few dresses of extraordinary coiffeures are either of black black velvet have been seen, and are trim- || velvet, or of a Modena-red; a fine, rich med with bias rouleaux of black satin. || colour, but the most unbecoming of all These gowns, which are for evening dress, || reds, when placed too near the face. On are made low, and are much cut away at the summit of the crowns of the new bérets the shoulders. Black lace dresses have || is a bow, with very long puffs, lined with bodice of satin, made tight to the shape ; || satin; two ends of which descend on each having a stomacher in front, and buttoned side, from the head to the sash. The behind with a row of jet buttons. Dresses || study of ridiculous and unbecoming head. of gro8 des Indes are much in favour for dresses seems attended with complete sucyoung persons. This silk hangs well on | cess; but so it is, and we must record the figure, and though the small pattern what is most in fashion. The hair of our which runs over it, of the same colour, is more youthful females, without these dis. ingeniously wrought, there is a flimsiness | guises, is beautifully arranged, and is truly and unfinished appearance in the material, || refreshing to the eye of taste, and the adwhich we do not admire. A gown never mirer of loveliness. There appears to be looks new, even on the first time of wear no decided style requisite for the disposal ing it. We saw one of pearl-grey, which of this charming attraction; but nature, looked much better than those of more that most skilful handmaid, seems to point lively colours: it was trimmed with out to the fair possessor of this her own flounces, cut at the edges in scallops; the gift, whatever mode will suit her features flounces were four, and reached as high as best ; and this she adopts, always preservthe knee. Purple and crimson velveting, however, that style of fashion which dresses, trimmed with white blond, are ex every sensible and well-bred female knows pected to prevail at evening parties, as the she ought to comply with ; at the same cold weather sets in: at present there have time never feeling the necessity of conbeen no grand, full-dress parties ; at least, | verting herself into a fright. Caps, for none that afforded any novelty. The same half dress, of rose-coloured silk net, are may be said of balls ; though among the much admired: they are somewhat in the dresses for the Christmas festivals and the cornette form, and are trimmed with gosnew year, the votaries of Terpsichore seem samer fringe: these caps are placed very much to admire a dress of pink crape over backward. white satin. This dress is trimmed with The favourite colours are pink, goldpink satin rouleaux, and crape foliage; colour, Christmas, or holly-green, Osageseach leaf bound round with satin. These | brown, Clarence-blue, jonquil, and verleaves, ingeniously united, form the short milion. sleeves. The body is made à la Vierge ; with a stomacher in front, formed by nar
Cabinet of Taste, row bands across, of pink satin. White crape dresses, trimmed with broad bias folds of satin, are also in favour for ball dresses. Dress hats are of white satin, trimmed
By a Parisian Correspondent. with blond, and often with coloured ribbon. The plumage which ornaments these hats is superb; generally of the weeping-willow The traveller who has been through kind, and are of white and the colour of Asia, thinks he has seen nothing, who has the ribbon, intermingled. Velvet turbansonly been up the Mediterranean; and the have much gold and silver introduced | latter, in his turn, laughs at him who has
OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN
COSTUME OF PARIS.
merely visited the continent. Thus it is yellow: these are lined with the same. with fashion: your inhabitants of May | They are sometimes ornamented with Fair and St. James's, think not much of small feathers grouped together, en pathe new-titled nobility residing at that | naches. Rose-coloured hats of gros de part of the town, once generally known by Naples are trimmed with very large bows the name of Mary-le-bone: the east side of the same, with very long loops. Someof Temple Bar they do not deign to speak | times a white blond is added to the edge of. I heard one of my countrywomen re of the brim; and this is surmounted, mark the other day to a lady, “My dear where the blond is set on, by a broad bias friend, how should you know any thing fold of rose-coloured satin. In carriages, of fashion, that live in Le Marais ?” Now, and at the Opera-Buffa, one long white really, there are some very charming feather, en saule pleureuse, is added. Many modes which have been invented in that || black velvet hats are now ornamented quarter, and eagerly copied in the Chaussée with ribbons of a light colour. Yellow ď Antin ; and for the out-door costume, || ribbons striped with green are very fathe new mantles of black satin, lined with || shionable. Hats of Swedish blue gros de cherry-colour, first made their appearance | Naples are lined with white; and round at Le Marais ! The plaits down the the crown are placed rosettes without front of the new pelisses commence from ends; half white and half blue, edged the shoulder, and give a great fulness to
with narrow blond. Round the crown of the bust. Females who have much en a hat of watered gros de Naples, the colour bon point do not look well in them; but || ponçeuu, I have seen two bands cut in they wisely avoid having points on the bias, edged with blond. There are numepaulettes, as they make them appear || bers of satin hats of English-green ; some enormous in size. Many of these pelisses of which are lined with violet-coloured are worn without any belt or sash; a
satin ; round the crown is a scalloped simple ribbon, carelessly tied, just marking band; and on one side a bouquet of violets out the waist. Many satin mantles have || coloured feathers. The lining of some the capes trimmed round with black blond. green hats is of black velvet; and the Broad satin ribbons tie these cloaks round | edge of the brim is bordered with a rûche the throat, the ends falling as low as the || of tulle. Two large bows, half of green knee, and terminating in a bow. Many || satin, and the other half of black gauze pelisses of gros de Naples are fastened by | ribbon, are placed on each side of the gold buckles, in the centre of two puffs | crown; the bow on the right side fastens of gros de Naples, bound with satin. The || together a plume of black and
feasleeves are also fastened by bracelets, or
thers. Hats of rose-coloured plush are bands of the same material as the dress; ornamented with black blond and black and these are also fastened by buckles. || feathers. I have seen, round the crown A most elegant carriage visiting dress is a of these hats, five or six feathers. pelisse of rose-coloured, watered gros de Dresses of poplin, the colour SwedishNaples, bound with white satin, and or- blue, are much in request. They are namented with mother-of-pearl buckles trimmed at the bottom with deep flounces, placed in the centre of rose-coloured bows, each headed by narrow quilling. Gowns lined with white satin, which close the || of gros de Naples have a pelerine with front of the skirt. The corsage is quite ends drawn through the sash, or belt: plain in front, and at the back. The epau- || these pelerines are scalloped at the lettes, which are trimmed round with | edges, though a few are seen bordered blond, are long, and in the shape of a with a full quilling. Levantine, poplin, heart. There is no collar, but the place and merino are favourite materials in the is supplied by a full ruff of blond. A Boa | gown department. Osagine-gauze is worn tippet of marabout is worn with this ele- || at evening dress parties ; and gowns of gant pelisse.
this material are generally trimmed with There are seen in the public walks || tlounces of broad blond, and otherwise ore some blue satin hats, trimmed with gauzenamented with gauze ribbons striped with ribbon, with a demi-veil of white blond. || satin ; flowers loop up the blond flounces, Some hats are of plush, the colour giraffe- in elegant drapery, A very pretty bouquet
is worn with such a dress, called à la Du namented with long, white feathers; sechesse, and is placed in a sash with long || veral of which are placed very backward, ends. Long sleeves, which those ladies on one side. However, I saw one with wear who are peculiarly susceptible of two long, flat feathers, in front of the cold, are, notwithstanding, of a texture so crown, fastened in the middle by a band fine, that they set off the turn of the arm of velvet; one towered over the summit to the best advantage: there is, certainly, of the head, the other fell over the neck. much warmth in them, though it is not Small dress caps of rose-coloured tulle are apparent. I am informed that this tissu
very pretty ; they are bordered with a is used for under-stockings; in the fear very narrow blond, set on quite straight. that wearing cotton or thread, under silk, The cap is placed very backward ; and a might make the leg appear too thick. I wreath of silver wheat and rose-buds lies have seen a very pretty fawn-coloured on the hair. Bérets of green velvet are dress of merino, trimmed with three bias ornamented with large puffs of gold or folds of gros de Naples, of the same colour. silver ribbons: a béret, at a fashionable Above these folds was a narrow rouleau of party, was of ponceau-coloured velvet, orgros de Naples, entwined by an elegantly namented with two bunches of gold wheat wrought silk trimming. The belt was a on the right side, with another attached band of gros de Naples, finished at each to the opposite side, which fell over the edge by the same sort of trimming, and cheek. The elevated style of dressing the terminated by two tassels, depending from hair is prodigious. The tresses which a silk cordon which tied it in front, and form the chignon are brought up together which fell as low as the knee. Poplin higher than the high gallery of the comb dresses are often worked in flat embroi which fastens them : the Apollo's knot is dery, in the same manner as those of gros formed of one large puff, or of two, and de Naples. Dresses worn in home cos three small ones. In evening dress, turtume are generally grey or brown.
bans are worn of gold tissue, with silk Bows of gold and silver gauze ribbon flowers: they have a diadem in front, are a prevalent ornament on the hair: || composed of gold cordon. Dahlias, heath, they are affixed to a full and rich plait of and the tops of asparagus, are favourite gold cordon, which is placed on the head ornaments on the heads of young persons. in any mode that fancy may suggest, and The favourite colours are Swedish-blue, this forms a very elegant coiffeure. Dress green, rose-colour, English-red, giraffehats are of velvet, of various colours, or yellow, and cherry-colour.
NEW PUBLICATIONS, MUSIC, THE ENGLISH AND FOREIGN
DRAMA, THE FINE ARTS, LITERARY AND
SCIENTIFIC INTELLIGENCE, &c. So great has been the influx of new One really valuable performance, new works within the past month, that, to to the English reader, presents itself in keep pace with the progress of publica “ The History of Painting in Italy, from tion, we must, in numerous instances, the Period of the Revival of the Fine Arts confine ourselves to little more than a mere to the End of the Eighteenth Century ; expression of opinion. Sorry are we, how- || Translated from the original Italian of the ever, to remark, that, by far the greater | Abate Luigi Lanzł, by Thomas Roscoe.” portion of the works alluded to belong This work is in six octavo volumes; and not to the higher classes of literature, nor at a period like the present, when a are they of the first order of merit in their knowledge as well as a love of the Fine class. But we are under the necessity of Arts is rapidly diffusing itself over the receiving and of noticing such as offer. kingdom, we know not how Mr. Roscoe
could have conferred a higher obligation in general terms. In the course of its upon his country, than by giving it an || publication, the work has been repeatedly English dress. Lanzi's production has mentioned by us in terms of praise, as long been a standard book of study and combining much that is rare, curious, and of reference upon the continent. “ The interesting. All that remains for us is to History of Painting,” observes its author, announce its termination—that it is now “is the basis of connoisseurship ; by complete in Twenty Parts—that, from its combining it, I supersede the necessity | commencement to its close, the task of of referring to many books; by abbre- | editorship has been most ably and satisviating it, I save the time and labour of factorily performed. the student; and by arranging it, in a “ The Clubs of London, with Anecdotes proper manner on every occasion, I pre-of their Members, Sketches of Character sent him with the subject ready prepared and Conversations,” in two post octavo and developed before him.” It would | volumes, will have numerous readers ; not be easy to give a just and general and those readers—the lovers of wit, hu-' character of the work in fewer words mour, and drollery in particular-will be than has been done by the Cavalier Boni, || abundantly gratified. The author is a the friend and confidant of the author. sensible and clever, a well informed, and
It brings into full light the leading professors | good-tempered man: we regret only that of the art, exhibits at due distance, those of the he—or rather the cast of his anecdotessecond class, and only glances at mediocrity and is occasionally a little coarse.
We can inferiority of character, insomuch as to fill up the || venture to indulge in only one brief exgreat pictoric canvas with its just lights and tract-the origin of the celebrated Beefshades. The true cause of the decline and re steak Club, which arose out of a visit paid vival of the art at certain epochs are pointed out, || to Rich, the famous purveyor of pantowith those that contribute to preserve the fine mimic exhibitions, in the year 1735:arts in their happiest lustre : in which, recourse
Whilst Rich was thus employed, his atelier, a to examples, more than to precepts, is strongly
small room in the theatre, was almost as much recommended. The best rules are unfolded for facilitating the study of different manners, some of which are known to bear a resemblance,
days. Every one seemed anxious to be admitted
to see him at his interesting labours. Amongst though by different hands, and others are op
these were several men of rank and wit; for posed to each other, although adopted by the
Rich's colloquial oddities were much relished. same artist, a species of knowledge highly useful at a period when the best productions are eagerly || what advanced in years, Hogarth, Sir James
The celebrated Lord Peterborough, then somesought after at a high rate. It is a history, in Thornhill
, &c. &c., were of the number. At short, worthy of being placed at the side of that
these visits, he never intermitted his labours, on the literature of Italy, by Tiraboschi, who
nor his strain of facetious remark. Upon one having touched upon the fine arts at the outset of occasion, accident having detained the Earl hís labours, often urged his ancient friend and colleague to dilate upon a subject in every way so
much later than usual, he found Rich's chit-chat flattering to the genius of Italy; to Italy which, || it was two in the afternoon ; when he observed
so agreeable, that he was quite unconscious that however rivalled by other nations in science and literature, stands triumphant and alone in its || coaxing his fire into a clear culinary flame, and
the man of pantomime spreading a cloth, then creative mind of art. It is, however, difficult to
proceeding with great gravity to cook his own convey a just idea of a work composed upon so enlarged and complete a scale, which embraces
beef-steak on his own gridiron. The steak sent
up a most inviting incense, and my Lord could a period of about six centuries, and fourteen Italian schools, but treated with such rapidity | further supply was sent for ; and a bottle or two
not resist Rich's invitation, to partake of it. A as to form in itself a compendium of excellent wine from a neighbouring tavern, of whatever we meet with in so many volumes of guides, catalogues
, descriptions of churches and prolonged their discourse to a late hour. But so palaces, and in so many lives of artists through
delighted was the old peer with his entertainout the whole of Italy.
ment, that on going away, he proposed renewing
it at the same place and hour on the Saturday To characterize a compilation so va following. He was punctual to his engagement, ried and multifarious in its nature, as and brought with him three or four friends, " Nichols's Progresses of James 1.," would of wit and pleasure about town,” as Mr. Bayes not easily be practicable, otherwise than I would call them : and so truly festive was the No. 37.-Vol. VII.
meeting, that it was proposed that a Saturday's || by Henry Neele,” in three rather thick and club should be held there, whilst the town re closely printed volumes, is dedicated to mained full.
the King, as a work “illustrative of the A sumptuary law, even at this early period of | romantic Annals of England, from the the society, restricted the bill of fare to beef
Norman Conquest to the Restoration ; a steaks, and the beverage to port wine and punch.
Thus the corner stone of the Sublime Society | period,” observes the author, “ which was laid. But the original gridiron upon which
presents no era more illustrious in art, in Rich had broiled his solitary steak, being insuf- || science, in literature, and in arms, than ficient in a short time for the supernumerary
his Majesty's own glorious regency and worshippers in the temple of Beef and Liberty, || reign." The former epoch, Mr. Neele inthe relic was enshrined as one of the tutelary and || forms us, he selected “as a good startinghousehold divinities of the club. Fortunately it || post, which would not carry bim too far escaped the fire which consumed Covent Garden, into the mist and gloom of antiquity,– a few years since, and now presents itself, en. and the latter as a point to stop at before circled with its motto, and suspended from the he could become involved in any of the ceiling, to every eye, which can spare a wandering | debateable matters which are agitated in glance from the beaf-steak smoking before it.
the present day. The reign of every. The long announced Parliamentary || sovereign is endeavoured to be illustrated Speeches of Mr. Canning, corrected by by at least one tale, and an Historical the hand of the deceased minister him- | Summary of the leading events of each self, with a portrait and memoir, in six || reign, is prefixed to the Tale which refers volumes, has not yet appeared; but the || to it.” The plan of the work, which we publication, which cannot fail to excite consider to be unobjectionably good, is great interest in the political world, is, we thus very correctly stated; with the exebelieve, nearly ready. In the interim, cution, the fastidiousness of our taste is we are presented with a hastily-written not, perhaps, quite satisfied. The task, “ Memoir of the Right Honourable George however, was extremely difficult; and by Canning, late Premier of England, with few, probably, could it have been perhis Parliamentary Orations, his Poems, | formed more ably than by Mr. Neele. In Essays, &c.; by Leman Thomas Rede, Esq., | the three volumes, we count twenty-nine Professor of Elocution," in a single octavo | tales, of varied length, and very unequal volume. Allowing for circumstances, this in merit: some of them are admirable ; volume is very creditable to the compiler. some are deficient in dramatic effect;
Combined with much laughable and and others are without that depth of pagood-humoured satire, “Whitehall, or the thos which is essential to a highly-wrought Days of George IV.;" constitutes a broad | work of fiction. The author tells caricature, or rather burlesque, of modern that, in these tales, although the aid of historical novels. “ This singular work,” || fiction has been employed, no imporobserves the writer, assuming the office tant historical event has been falsified.” of editor, “was printed in Teyoninhaka- || In the composition of such pieces, this is waranenopolis, capital of the great em a rule which ought never to be departed pire of Yankeedoodolia, in the year 2227, || from; but the volumes before us are, if we exactly four hundred years from the pre- || may so express ourselves, in many insent date. The name of the author I do stances, too historical. That is, they posnot know. How it came into my hands, sess the dryness of mere history, without it were useless to divulge ; but I think it the stirring interest which ought to have will be found to give as graphic and cor- || been imparted by the creative powers of rect a picture of the affairs of the present imagination. Yet, altogther, the work is day, as the general current of our London | really good ; and we doubt not, that, historical novels give of the events of agreeably to the aim of its author, it four hundred years ago, when they treat may lead to a more general perusal of of them.” The object of this work has | English history, especially to the invalu, been grossly misunderstood by some of || able, but neglected productions of the our profound weekly critics. Evidently, | ancient annalists and chroniclers.” One the writer is capable of far better things. of Mr. Neele's most beautiful tales The
“ The Romance of Iristory-England | Spectre's Voyage-appeared in one of the