FASHIONS FOR MARCH, 1818. EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION. ENGLISH. No. 1.-ENGLISH WINTER CARRIAGE COSTUME. Round dress of fine cambric muslin, superbly embroidered round the border mourning is by no means an embellishment, are seen clothed in every varied tint. that issues from the loom. In addition to our last intelligence we find, for the out-door costume, nothing more elegant than fine Merino cloth pelisses for walking, of a Carmelite brown, in three distinct rows. Pelisse of rich Tobine silk striped, of Christmas hollyberry colour and bright grass green, trim-trimmed with a very broad border and med round the collar, cuffs, and down the front with very broad swansdown. Cambridge hat of green satin, ornamented with white ribband, edged with holly-berry red, surmounted by a very full plume of white ostrich feathers. Triple ruff of fine lace; holly-berry velvet ridicule, with clasp and ornaments of gold. Limerick gloves, and white kid half boots. FRENCH. No. 2.-FRENCH CARRIAGE DRESS. Pelisse of celestial blue satin, fastened down the front with Brandenbourgs of polished steel. Toque hat of spotted blue velvet, the hat part crowned with a plume of white ostrich feathers; the cap part confined to the forehead by a bandeau of polished steel, with an elegant tassel of the same material on the left side. Triple raff of fine lace; lemon-coloured slippers of kid leather, and Norman gloves. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FASHION AND DRESS. WE gave last month a general outline of what would be the most prevailing fashions when a gay diversity of colours would take place of the sable garb of woe; and though the solemn season of Lent still causes black to be a very prevalent costume at the Oratorios, and other public spectacles, yet an infinite diversity of coloured ornaments, feathers, flowers, &c. are still predominant; and many ladies to whose complexions facings of ermine. For the carriage rich Tobine silks, and those generally striped of different colours, are reckoned most fablack velvet, the sleeves elegantly slashed shionable; while spensers of brown or with satin, are in much favour either for the carriage or the promenade. For the latter, velvet bonnets edged with fine blond, and surmounted by a very full plume of drooping ostrich feathers, or those of fine straw with winter flowers in full groups, are amongst the unique articles worn as coverings for the head by all who compose the higher classes. Amongst these flowers is the exact semblance of a very rare exotic from the East, called the tiger lily; it is of a very beautiful Oriental red, the cup spotted exactly similar to a tiger's skin with yellow and black, from the bottom of which ascends the resemblance of a tiger's tongue. The first of these beautiful flowers we saw was at Mrs Thomas's, WellingtonHouse; to whose taste we are indebted this month for our English Carriage Cos tume. For deshabille, and home parties, poplins and coloured bombazeens still maintain their pre-eminence: the former are trimmed half way up the skirt with serpentine rows of puckered satin of the same colour as the poplin; the bombazeens are chiefly trimmed with velvet (generally, black), or with fringe, according to the fancy of the wearer. Sarsuets richly sprigged are much worn at dinner and evening parties; and for ball dresses nothing is in higher estimation than a frock of plain Chinese gauze, the border of which is very broad, and formed of embossed satin and chenille, and unbecoming state, but the crowns are in various devices; this superb article is worn over a blue or pink satin slip. The present season being propitious to the light-footed votaries of Terpsichore, renders invention busy in versatile elegancies for the ball-room; another dress for dancing has come under our cognizance, and is equally admired and adopted as that described above; that is, a frock of crape over white satin, bordered by a rouleau of crape and rose-coloured satin entwined, and above is placed a trimming of full blown roses : a short Swiss corsage elegantly marks out the shape, which corsage is of rose-colour, trimmed and ornamented with white silk cordon. Clear muslin is also much used in the fabrication of ball dresses, ornamented with white satin and rose buds. The hair enriched by a chaplet of flowers, and a sprig of myrtle in flower placed in front of the bust as a bouquet, finishes the dress. It is needless to observe that this last simple attire should only be worn by very young ladies. Before we dismiss the article of robes, we beg to offer to the notice of our fair readers the Elizabeth negligée for breakfast costume. It is made of the finest Bengal muslin, and is profusely trimmed with fine Mechlin lace; the sleeves are loose, but not immoderately large; they draw tight round the wrist, from whence proceeds a Chinese point, descending nearly to the knuckles. This dress, which is finished in the Sultana style, is only partially high, and its toute ensemble forms the most beautiful deshabille we have seen for some time: the mob, or morning cornette worn with it, is lined with pale blue sarsnet, and is encircled with a wreath of single blue hyacinths. Amongst the most favourite head-dresses for evening, is the Denmark cap; it is formed of fine lace, white and ruby-coloured satin; the summit is ornamented by satin in points, and on the left side is placed a full bouquet of winter flowers, the chief of which are the red ranunculus with its shaggy leaf. Feathers are, however, much more predominant ornaments than flowers; and very few of the latter are worn except those peculiar to the wintry season or very early spring, such as the ranunculus, crocus, snow-drop, &c. and the single hyacinth. The bonnets continue in their large much lower than formerly: the materials of which they are made are chiefly of striped or figured satin, velvet, or black straw; the latter do not much predominate. Undress cornettes continue to be made of fine muslin embroidered and Mechlin lace; they are reckoned most appropriate and genteel when bound simply round with a satin ribband, of which is formed a bow on the left side, and another placed rather backward on the summit of the crown. Turbans and toques of crape and white satin continue, as usual, in favour amongst the most matronly; but the chief favourite for evening parties, and for the private box at the Opera, is a white satin dress hat, placed backward, and the heaviness of the satin taken off by a mixture of blond and net; this becoming head-dress, suitable almost to any age, is crowned with a superb and lofty plume of white featners. The hair is now dressed in a manner that elevates it very much on the summit of the head; where it is formed in rich curls or hollow plaits; it appears heavy, and is far from becoming, especially as some young ladies bring their wreaths, or chaplets, very low over the forehead, destroying thereby its beauty, and rendering the visage broad and short: those who do not adopt this fashion, yet bring a bandeau of their own hair across the forehead; this is better, as it sets off its natural fairness, while the other totally conceals it. In undress, the hair is worn more in the Madona style, except that over each ear a few ringlets are displayed; here they are useless ornaments, which can neither add beauty nor grace to the features: we rather recommend the medium adopted by the fashionist of real taste, who, while it does not militate entirely against the prevailing mode, is best calculated to set off her natural attractions. The favourite articles in jewellery are pearls, topazes, and emeralds; the newest broaches are formed like an arrow, the shafts and feathers are of gold, curiously wrought; in the midst of which runs a line of rubies or emeralds closely set: amber ornaments are again much in favour. The most prevalent colours are hollyberry red, rose-colour, blue, geranium, and grass-green. |