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tions of his victories and most signal actions,, mixed with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London.

are engraven in brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of the great Johu di Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand I. and Cosma II. uncle and On Christmas eve, I went to see the cousin to Mary di Medicis, the wife of this cathedral of Notre Dame, built by Philip King Henry. It is enclosed with a strong Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son and beautiful grate of iron, about which of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic there are always mountebanks, shewing || fabric, supported by a hundred and twenty their feats to idle passengers. From hence pillars, which make two aisles in the church is a delightful prospect towards the Louvre round about the choir, without compreand suburbs of St. Germains, the isle Duhending the chapels, being a hundred and Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foot of seventy-four paces long, sixty wide, and a this bridge is a water-house, on the front || hundred high. The choir is enclosed with whereof, at a great height, is the story of our Saviour and the woman of Samaria, pouring water out of a bucket. Above is a very rare dial of several motions, with a chime, &c. The water is conveyed by huge wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence of the people, and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the bridge, is an agreeable diversion to a new spectator. Other bridges also, as that of Notre Dame, the Pont au Charge, &c. fairly built, with houses of stone, are laid over this river: ouly the Pont St. Anne, bounding the suburbs of St. Germains at the Thuilleries, is built of wood, having likewise a water-house in the midst of it, and a statue of Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior to the Samaritan.

The University lies south-west on higher ground, contiguous to the lesser part of Paris. They reckon no less than sixtyfive colleges, but they in nothing compare with ours at Oxford for state and order. The booksellers dwell within the University. The schools are very regular.

The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honore, St. Marcel, Jaques, St. Michel, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest one, where the nobility and persons of the highest quality are seated; and truly Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the materials the houses are built with, and many uoble and magnifi. ceut piles, one of the most gallant cities in the world, and best built; large in circuit, of a round form, very populous, but situated in a bottom, environed with gentle de clivities, rendering some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were

stone-work, engraven with the sacred history, aud contains forty-five chapels, cancellated with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues in relievo of the Kings, twenty-eight in number, from Childebert to the founder, Philip; and above them are two high square towers, and another of a smaller size, bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the church forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by three hundred and eighty-nine steps, having twelve galleries from one to the other.

There are some good modern paintings hanging on the pillars; the most conspicuous statue is the large Colossus of St. Christopher, with divers other figures of men, horses, prospects and rocks about this gigantic piece, being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulk than any other perfection. This is the prime church of France for dignity, having archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplins in good store, to the number of a hundred and twenty-seven. It is also the palace of the Archbishop. The young King was there, with a great and martial guard, who entered the nave of the church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was entertained with the church music.

JAN. 4, 1644.-1 passed this day with one Mr. Wall, an Irish gentleman, who had been a friar in Spain, and afterwards a reader in St. Isidor's chair, at Rome, but was, I know not how, getting away, and || pretending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as he told us, been Captain of horse in Germany. It is certain he was an excellent disputant, and so strongly given to it, that nothing could pass him. He would needs persuade me to go with him, this morning, to the Jesuits'

College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the fathers in their church, at the Rue St. Antoine, where one of them shewed us that noble fabric, which, for its cupola, pavings, incrustations of marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), organ, lavatorium, &c. but above all, the richly carved and incomparable front, 1 esteem to be one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, emulating even some of the greatest at Rome itself; but this not being what our friar sought, he led || us into the adjoining convent, where, hav-|| ing shewn us the library, they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity, which our cavalier contested, only to show his pride, and to that indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, they being put beside all patience. The next day we went into the University, and into the College of Navarre, which is a spacious well built quadrangle, having a very noble library.

Hence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabrick, built by one Robert de Sorbonne, whose name it retains; but the restoration which the late Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it, renders it one of the most excellent modern buildings; the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole design of the church is very magnificent.

We went into some of the schools, and in that of divinity we found a grave Doctor in his chair, with a multitude of auditors, who all write as he dictates; and this they call a course. After we had sate a little, our cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the Doctor; at which, and especially as he was clad in the Spanish habit, which in Paris is the greatest bugbear imaginable, the scholars and Doctor fell into such a fit of laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a while; but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and make his apology in so good a style, that their derision was turned to admiration, and beginning to argue, he so baffled the professor, that with universal applause they all rose up and did him great honours, waiting on us to the very street and our coach, testifying great satisfaction.

late addition to the buildings is very noble, but the galleries, where they sell their petty merchandise, are nothing so stately as ours at London-no more than the place where they walk below, being only || a low vault.

The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of Philip the Fair, noble and spacious. The great hall annexed to it is arched with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, around which, and at the sides, are shops of all kinds, especially booksellers. One side is full of pews for clerks of the advocates, who swarm here (as ours at Westminster). At one of the ends stands an altar, at which mass is said daily; within are several chambers, courts, treasuries, &c. Above that is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Audience, the Chamber of St. Louis, and other superior courts, where the parliament sits, richly gilt on embossed carvings and frets, and exceedingly beautified.

Within the place where they sell their wares is another narrow gallery full of shops and toys, &c. which looks down into the prison yard. Descending by a large pair of stairs, we passed by St. Chaselle, which is a church built by St. Louis, in 1242, after the Gothic manner; it stands on another church which is under it, sustained by the pillars at the sides, which seem so weak as to appear extraordinary in the artist. This chapel is most famous for its relics, having, as they pretend, almost the entire crown of thorns, and the achat patine, rarely sculptured, judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There is now a very beautiful spire erecting.

The court below is very spacious, capable of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shops, especially engravers, goldsmiths, and watchmakers. It has a fine fountain and portico.

The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building, whereof one side looking to the river, is inhabited by goldsmiths. Within the court are private dwellings. The front looking on the great bridge is possessed by mountebanks, operators, and puppet players. On the other side is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, especially bread, herbs, flowers, orangetrees, and choice shrubs. Here is a shop FEB. 3.-I went to the Exchange. The called Noah's Ark, where are sold all curio

sities natural or artificial, Indian or Euro- ficial, and is richly stored with exotic pean, for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells,|| plants. In the middle of the parterre is a ivory, porcelain, dried fishes, insects, birds, fair fountain. There is a very fine house, pictures, and a thousand exotic extrava- chapel, laboratory, orangery, and other gances. Passing hence we viewed the accommodations for the president, who is Port Dauphine, an arch of excellent work- always one of the King's chief physicians. manship; the street, having the same name, is ample and straight.

From thence we went to the other side of the town, and to some distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the || Bastille, which is the fortress, tower, and magazine of this great city. It is very spacious within, and here the Grand Mas

FEB. 4-I went to see the Marais de Temple, where is a noble church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templers, now converted to a piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent-Garden, butter of the Artillery has his house, with fair larger, and not so pleasant, though built gardens and walks. all about with divers considerable palaces.

The church of St. Genevieve is a place of great devotion, dedicated to another of their Amazons, said to have delivered their || city from the English, for which she is esteemed the tutelary Saint of Paris. It stands on a steep eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by canons regular.

At the Palais Royale Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle of stately palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area stands on a noble pedestal a brazen statue of Louis XIII. which, though made in imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as that on the Pont Neuf.

The Hospital of the Quinz-Vingts, in Rue St. Honore, is an excellent foundation; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for men and women, near Notre Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charité gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how descently and christianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and fountains. Divers persons are there cut for the stone, with great success, yearly in May. The two Casteletts (supposed to have been built by Julius Cæsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes, to which is added a strong prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent. On the 8th of February I took coach, and went to see the famous Jardine Royale, which is an enclosure walled in, consisting of all the varieties of ground for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, having in it hills, meadows, wood, and upland, natural and artiNo. 112.-Vol. XVIII.

The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble castle, with magnificent apart. ments, fit for a royal court, not forgetting the chapel. It is the chief prison for pers sons of quality. About it there is a park walled in, full of deer, and one part is a grove of goodly pine trees.

The next day I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its several courts and

pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Henry IV. and finished by his son and grandson, is a superb but mixed structure. The cornices, moulding, and compartments, with the insertion of several coloured marbles, have been of great expense.

We went through the long gallery, paved with white and black marble, richly fretted and painted a fresco. The front looking to the river, though of rare work for the carving, yet wants that magnificence which a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it.

In the Cour au Thuilleries is a princely fabric; the winding geometrical stone stairs, with the cupola, I take to be as noble a piece of architecture as any in Europe of the kind. To this is a Corps de Logis worthy of so great a Prince. Under these buildings, through a garden in which is an ample fountain, was the King's Printing House, and that famous letter so much esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic authors, poets, and others.

Descending

We returned through another gallery, larger but not so long, where hung the pictures of all the Kings and Queens, and prime nobility of France. hence we went into a lower very large room, called the Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted cimelia, destined for statues only, amongst which stands the so much

1

celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said to
be the same which uttered oracles in that
hatta
temple. Here is a huge globe suspended
by chains. The pavings, inlayings, and
incrustations of this hall are very rich.

In another more private garden, towards the Queen's apartment, is a walk, or cloister, under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a great breadth; it looks towards the river, and has a pleasant|| aviary, fountain, stately cypress, &c. On the river are seen a prodigious number of barges and boats, of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine, &c. Under the long gallery dwell goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and architects, who being the most famous for their art in Christendom, have stipends allowed them by the King. We went into that of M. Saracin, who was moulding for an image of a Madona, to be cast in gold, of a great size, to be sent by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an offering for the birth of the Dauphin, now the young King.

*

it is that the gallants and ladies of the court take the air and divert themselves, as with us in Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing a hundred coaches to turn commodiously, and the larger of the plantations five or six coaches abreast.

Returning through the Thuilleries, we saw a building in which are kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear, a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, &c.

FEB. 27.-Accompanied with some English gentlemen, we took horse to see St. Germains en Lay, a stately country house of the King's, five leagues from Paris. By the way we alighted at St. Cloud, where, on an eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely watered and furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; the walks are very fair; the fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water near forty feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and basins, and is a surprising object; but I finished this day with a walk in the nothing is more esteemed than the cascade great garden of the Thuilleries, which is falling from the great steps into the lowest rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or com- and longest walk from the Mount Parpany, by groves, plantations of tall trees, nassus, which consists of a grotto, or shellespecially that in the middle, being of elms, house, on the summit of the hill, wherein and another of mulberries. Here is a laby-are divers water-works, and contrivances rinth of cypress, noble hedges of pome- to wet the spectators; this is covered with a granates, fountains, fishponds, and an avi- fine cupola, the walls painted with the Muses, ary. There is an artificial echo, redou- and statues placed thick about it, whereof bling the words distinctly, and it is never some are antique and good. In the upper without some fair nymph singing to it. walks are two perspectives, seeming to enlarge the alleys. In this garden are many other contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary; the outer walls are only painted a fresco. In the court is a volery, and the statues of Charles IX. Henry III, Henry IV. and Louis XIII. on horseback, mezzo-relieved in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well painted, and there is an excellent prospect towards Paris, the meadows, and river. At an inn in this village is a host, who treats all the great persons in princely lodgings with furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as I have done. Indeed the entertainment is very splendid, and not unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat, and of the

Standing at one of the focuses, which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges, the voice seems to descend from the clouds, and sometimes as if it were under ground, This being at the bottom of the garden we were let into another, which being kept with all imaginable accurateness, as to the orangery, precious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a paradise. From a terrace in this place we saw as many coaches as one would hardly think could be maintained in the city, going, late as it was in the year, towards the course, which is a place adjoining, of near an English mile long, planted with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the middle. This course is walled round, nearly breast high, with squared freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and statues about it, built by Mary de Medicis. Here

service. Here are many debauches and,, stone, the law will not justify jailers in excessive revellings, being out of obser

vance.

About a league further, we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's villa at Ruell. The house is small, but fairly built, in form of a castle, moated round. The offices are towards the road, and over against it are large vineyards, walled in. Though the house is not of the greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent that I doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all varieties of pleasure. The garden nearest the pavillion is a parterre, having in the midst divers noble brass statues perpetually spouting water into an ample basin, with other figures of the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast enclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, containing vineyards, cornfields, meadows, groves (whereof one is of perennial greens), and walks of vast lengths, so accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walks, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the fountain's wire, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move round so swiftly that one can hardly escape wetting. Extract from a description, by John Evelyn, Esq. author of "Sylva," &c.

IMPROPER TREATMENT OF PRISONERS.

fettering a prisoner, unless where he is unruly, or has attempted an escape.

You have no right to abridge him of pure air, wholesome and sufficient food, and opportunities of exercise. You have no right to debar him from the craft on which his family depends, if it can be exercised in prison. You have no right to subject him to suffering from cold, by want of bed-clothing by night, or firing by day; and the reason is plain-you have torn him from his home, and have deprived him of the means of providing himself with the comforts and necessaries of life, and therefore you are bound to furnish him with moderate, indeed, but suitable accommodation.

You have, for the same reason, no right to ruin his habits, by compelling him to be idle; his morals, by compelling him to mix with a promiscuous assemblage of hardened and convicted criminals; or his health, by forcing him at night into a damp unventilated cell, with such crowds of companions as very speedily to render the air foul and putrid; or to make him sleep in close contact with the victims of contagions and loathsome disease, or amidst the noxious effluviæ of dirt and corruption. In short, attention to his feelings, mental and bodily, a supply of every necessary, abstraction from evil society, the conservation of his health and industrious habits, are the clear, evident, undeniable rights of an unconvicted prisoner.

LET us follow a prisoner from his first commitment, always remembering that as yet his guilt is unproved. You have no right|| to march him along the street in chains, At his trial, either he is acquitted-in or to make him a spectacle of public igno- which case the least you can do is to reminy, perhaps on the very spot, and place him in the situation you found him, amongst the very people with whom he to pay his expences home, and to furnish has hitherto held a fair character. Infamy him with sufficient to support him till he may be the penalty for crime, but it should has an opportunity of looking out for work: never be the consequence of suspicion : or he is convicted-and then it is for the you should, therefore, conduct him to his law to appoint the punishment which is jail with every possible attention to his to follow his offence. That punishment feelings, with decency and secresy. When must be inflicted, but you must carefully he is entered within its walls, you have guard that it be not aggravated, and that no right to load him with irons; you circumstances of severity are not found in have no right to subject him to bodily his treatment which are not found in his pain from their weight, or to that agony sentence. Now no judge ever condemned of mind which must result from such a man to be half starved with cold by day, symbols of degradation to a man of yet or half suffocated with heat by night; unblunted feelings, and you have no right who ever heard of a criminal being sento conclude that he is not such. And here tenced to catch the rheumatism or the I must observe, in the language of Black-typhus fever? Corruption of morals and

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