clever Lady Berkeley, gives us, probably, the outdoor apparel, or bonnet, over the lace coif and silk lappets, without the veil (these lappets are better understood in

FIG. 72.-Lady Berkeley. From a drawing by Holbein.

fig. 75 over the veil) and the veil for weight's sake seems to have been occasionally pinned up, as in the portrait of Lady Butts, fig. 70. Mistress Souch, probably con

temporary with Henry's daughters, shows the jewelled coif which followed, with its shrunken veil behind: the immediate predecessor to the 'cushion' and the 'ruff.' The neck-ruff, except in its hugest phase, is a very

becoming ornament, and improves the face. So much so that it deserves to be included among head-dresses.

Many a pretty face surmounts a thin and unshapely throat-indeed, a beautiful throat is a very rare thing—and the ruff conceals an ugly neck, detracts from a worn jaw, and yet can be coaxed down in the front with advantage, if the throat be pretty enough to render its exposure advisable. The ruff, running around a dress.

low in the front, the plaits lessened in depth towards the extremities, had often an extremely good effect, and would be a good thing to introduce, only when it had to be held up by a wire support it became ridiculous. Hoods and broad hats were alike worn with the ruff; the latter sometimes very tall, at others with a low flat

crown; beauty, apparently, being sought for at home only, while convenience was consulted out of doors.

A head-dress admitting of very pretty modifications, which we may see in one of its best forms in the pictures of Mary Stuart, was worn in Elizabeth's reign. It consisted of a broad cap with a wired edge, and the wire could

be bent in any way around the face. The form adopted by the Queen of Scots, fig. 77, is exceedingly pretty-a simple dip over the forehead, the ears being displayed. The richest lace was profusely used at this time. The ruff, the cap, the cuffs, collars, handkerchiefs, and aprons were all adorned with point lace, and there is no more beautiful ornament for a woman than these laces, of which

the patterns are graceful in the extreme, and the manufacture a chef d'œuvre of art, though they were in those days sometimes spoiled with blue, red, and green starch.

In Charles I.'s reign there was a considerable alteration in dress. The ruff was discarded, and the hair

FIG. 76.-Elderly lady, 1631.

brushed back from the forehead-the new growing hair at the roots falling downward, and frequently simulated by cut portions curled with tongs with heavy clusters of frizzed curls over the ears (see fig. 26, p. 62). It was a fashion full of elegance and simplicity save for a few vagaries, in spite of Puritan influence. The vulgar