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INFLUENCE OF FRANKS.

free ingress of foreigners and their manners, though it must be confessed that hitherto they have been at best of an equivocal character. The contempt of the Mohammedans for Christians is diminished by seeing them advanced to so many places of confidence, and by the homage done to their superior intelligence and civilization in the new organization of the army and navy, and in the other innovations of the pacha; and were the Europeans who occupy influential stations in the administration and in society, more exemplary in their lives, some impression would be made upon the religious prejudices, and some respect inspired for the Gospel. Unfortunately, however, those who represent Christianity in Egypt seem not to be impressed with a sense of their high responsibility. They often have the reputation of superadding the voluptuousness and sensuality of the East to the vices of civilized Europe. I heard many anecdotes that left no room to doubt the general correctness of this representation, and had some opportunities to confirm it by my own observations. One European of the highest name purchased a black girl in the slave-market in Cairo, and having tricked her out in the gorgeous finery of the East, paraded her through the length of the land as a mistress with the most offensive and indecent publicity. I met with another representative of Christianity who avowedly resides in Egypt to enjoy the Mohammedan immunity of a plurality of wives; and I was assured that he had a harem, selected with the usual regard to variety, from various nations and colours. Such instances are not solitary, and they produce upon the minds of Mohammedans the most unfavourable impressions with regard to the Gospel. These are rather strengthened than diminished by the instances of apostacy from the Christain faith, of which there are not wanting con spicuous examples, always attended with pretty full proof that they are the result of interested motives, and not of honest conviction. When, in connexion with such facts, we con

sider the general degradation and bad character of the native Christians, to which the Mohammedans constantly appeal when addressed on the subject of religion, we are hardly permitted to hope that any favourable impression is likely to be made in favour of the Gospel, in the present state of things. It is something, however, that the country is open to missionaries; that the Copts and other Christians have been placed upon a footing of political equality with Mussulmen; and that the latter are habituated to respect and obey the superior intelligence and policy of the professors of the rival creed. All this must tend to repress, if not to eradicate bigotry, and thus may open the way to men who, under better auspices, shall hereafter plant themselves in Egypt, not to help a tyrant forge heavier fetters for the people, but to engage in earnest for their intellectual and moral improvement.

VOL. I.-E E

326

DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO.

CHAPTER XIX.

Journey from Cairo to Suez.-Departure from Cairo.-The Tour fashionable and interesting.-Reasons for attempting it.-Fellow-travellers.The first Encampment.-Delay.-Tricks.-Our Caravan.-Petty Theft. ---Outfit for the Journey.-A Company of Ishmaelites.-African Boy.A Night in the Desert.-Habits of the Arabs.-The Road.-Route to India.-Caravansaries.-Waymarks.-Soil of the Desert.-Marine Petrifactions.-Petrified Timber.-Egyptian Agates.-Mountains.-Salt.-Trees and Shrubs.-High Winds.-The Mirage.-Wells.--Habits of the Camel. -Arrival at Suez.-The Plain of Suez.-Ruins of Kolsum.-Description of the Modern Town.-Population.-Harbour.-Walls.-Hotel.-Commercial Importance and Prospects.-Projected Improvements.-Railroad. -Canal.-The Ancient Canal.-The Bazar.-Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites.-The Place.-Doubts.-Niebuhr's Opinion.-Situation of the Land of Goshen.-Route to the Sea.-Retrograde Movement.-Necessity of a Miracle.-Its Objects.-Passage at Suez.-Arguments in its Favour.-Objections.-Lower Passage at Bedea.-Reasons for adopting Shaw's Opinion.-The Scripture Account.-The "East Wind."--More Objections.-The greater Miracle the more probable.-The Pass at Bedea.-Mr. Leider's Opinion.—Meaning of the Arab Names.

MARCH 2, 1840. We left Cairo this morning, or rather evening, for it was past two o'clock before we were clear of the city, to commence our journey through the Desert to Jerusalem. I came into Egypt with a settled purpose to resist the strong inducements which I was aware might prevail over my prudence so far as to lead me into an undertaking beyond my strength. Since the passage through the wilderness has been shown to be practicable, and even safe under the potent auspices of the Pacha of Egypt, an annually increasing number of travellers have preferred this novel and interesting route to the old one by sea, from Alexandria to Jaffa, or the land journey by El Arish. It is fast becoming a fashionable trip, and ladies no less than voyagers of the hardier sex have learned to esteem a pil

MOTIVES OF THE JOURNEY.

327

grimage of some five or six weeks among the Bedouins as quite indispensable in a visit to the Levant. The way through the Desert has attractions of a higher character. It leads over some of the most historical ground in the world: the Isthmus of Suez, the Red Sea, the Wilderness of Etham, the Mountains of Sinai, Arabia, Edom, Petra. What names awaken more stirring and venerable recollections? Palestine, Jerusalem, Mount Calvary perhaps, but no others; and it is precisely to this sacred theatre of the Redeemer's life and death that we are conducted, through a region illustrated by the achievements of Moses, Joshua, and David, and made holy ground by the most wonderful manifestations of the Divine power and mercy which had been vouchsafed to man previous to the appearance of the Son of God in the world.

From the moment I resolved on visiting Palestine, I felt that it would be no ordinary exercise of self-denial to turn from a route so full of interest and so instructive, to pursue the more beaten path by Jaffa or Gaza. Still I had not aspired to the faintest hope that I should be able to travel through the Desert. During my journey up the Nile, however, the plague had made its appearance in Alexandria, through which city I must pass in prosecuting my original plan. This would be attended with some hazard, and it would be followed by the certain and more dreaded, if not more serious evil of a quarantine at whatever Syrian port I might choose to debark. There could be but little room for hesitation when the only choice lay between a journey through the Desert and a quarantine of two or three weeks in a Turkish lazaretto. My health, too, had improved by my horseback travelling in Greece and during my voyage upon the Nile, and there seemed to be no presumption— perhaps no imprudence, in embarking in the enterprise before me. Relying upon Divine Providence for support, I resolved to make the experiment, and commenced making the

:

328

FIRST NIGHT IN THE desert.

necessary preparations as soon as I was able after my return to Cairo. By great diligence, I had my arrangements so far completed as to be able to set out this morning.

Our company consists of Mr. and Mrs. Cooly, and Mr. Carrington, an English gentleman with whom we became acquainted on the Nile. It was increased by three Germans and an Englishman whom we found encamped on the ground where we pitched our tents for the night, only three miles from Cairo. We had time to proceed several miles farther, but were told by our guides that it was their custom to spend the first night at this identical spot. The scene was novel. I was in the midst of wild Bedouins, whose appearance did full justice to all that has been said or written of their treachery and ferocity. I had, however, become familiar with barbarians, and could but regard these as experience had taught me to regard their more slavish, but not much more civilized brethren, the fellahs of Egypt, as an inferior race, who had not the courage, if so disposed, to do serious harm to men whom they supposed prepared and dis-· posed to resist violence. The air of the Desert was pure and invigorating, and it is long since I enjoyed such refreshing sleep as I did the first night which I passed in a tent.

March 3. We rose early, but did not move until nearly 8 o'clock. The Bedouins had some additional arrangements to make before they were ready to set out on so long a journey, and some things had been left behind by our servants, for which we took this opportunity to send back to the city. Considerable time was also lost in assorting the baggage and apportioning to each camel his proper load. I had some foretaste of what I had to expect from the good faith and veracity of my new acquaintances. I had been at much pains to select a young dromedary of flexible limbs and easy motion, and had taken several rides in order to make a full trial of the animal, upon which my health and comfort were to be so dependant for near a month to come.