FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER, 1814. EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION. AUTUMNAL WALKING DRESS. Jacconet muslin high dress, with a triple flounce of muslin embroidery round the edge, and slightly scolloped; a row of worked points surmounts the top flounce. The body is composed of jacconet muslin and letting-in lace; the former cut in broad strips and sewed full to the latter, which is about an inch in breadth; this body is made up to the throat, but has no collar: the shape is the same as last month, except that the back is a little broader. Long sleeve of muslin and lace to correspond with the body. Spenseret of rose coloured velvet of a form the most elegantly simple and tasteful that we have seen; it is very short in the waist, and tight to the shape; it is ornamented at top by a lace frill, and is cut so as to cover the bosom, but to leave the neck bare. This spenseret is very much admired, and it is certainly truly elegant, but it owes its principal attraction to the corset over which it is worn, and certainly nothing was ever so well calculated to display a fine shape to advantage as the Circassian corset, which has been patronized and recommended with incredible celerity by ladies of the highest distinction, who are unanimous in declaring it to be the only corset ever introduced that has in every way answered the encomiums bestowed upon it. The superior | ease, gracefulness, and elegance which it gives to the female figure, are too obvious to need a comment; while, on the other hand, its beneficial effects upon the health are daily attested by ladies who rejoice in the success of an invention which has freed them from the tortures inflicted by whalebone, steel, &c. We must not omit to observe that the walking bonnet of this month, which is composed of white satin and rose coloured velvet, and ornamented with a plume of white feathers, will cer tainly become general, as it is a most elegant bonnet; it is worn over a small white lace cap. Rose-colour jane, or leather boots, and Limerick gloves. The above dress was invented by Mrs. Bell, Inventress of the Ladies' Chapeau Bras, at her Magazin des Modes, No. 26, Charlotte-street, Bedford-square. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FASHION AND DRESS. The metropolis is at present so completely deserted by all the fair leaders of ton, that our record of fashions for this month must be less distinguished by variety than it is in general; we have indeed seen a few dresses that were a short time back imported from Paris, but our fair countrywomen appear by no means iuclined to encourage the introduction of Gallic fashions, generally speaking, and when we consider how becoming and tasteful those dresses are which now, and for a long time back, have been the produce of their own invention, we cannot wonder that they should feel justly proud of the superiority of their own taste. The walking costume continues very nearly as it was last month, for the middle of the day, but the mornings and evenings being remarkably cool, our fair pedestrians appear in swansdown tippets, or velvet spensers. We have noticed one of the latter, of a bright purple, which we think extremely elegant and tasteful; it is made very short in the waist, the upper part of the back is plain, and the lower part from the middle of the back to the bottom of the waist, is drawn in with a considerable fullness; the lower part of the front of the spenser is made to correspond with the back, and a light and tasteful silk ing the lateness of the season, muslin is still in high estimation; we do not, however, think that it is more worn than the washing silks. We have nothing novel to announce in the forms of dresses, except that the backs are something broader than they were worn last month. Ribband trimmings are upon the decline, but silk fringe and floss silk trimmings are very much worn. Lace has lost nothing of its attraction since last month, it is, if possible, trimming, a shade darker than the spenser, and made to resemble a wreath of small shell ornaments, is at the joining of the back and fronts, as well as at the bottom of the waist, and at each side of the back; it fastens up the front with small silk buttons, to correspond with the trimming; the collar is made tight to the throat, and low, and a triple ruff of either pointed lace, or scolloped worked muslin falls over it. Long plain sleeve, with a very small half sleeve cut in the shape of a shell, and trim-higher in estimation than ever, and while med to correspond with the body. This spenser is, we think, likely to be a favourite during the winter months; it may be obtained of Mrs. Bell, the ingenious Inventress of many most admired dresses. French bonnets, as they are called, still continue in the highest estimation for the walking costume; they are much worn in straw, though not in such estimation as in satin, and the shape has altered a good deal there is, in reality, nothing of novelty in dresses, the tasteful manner in which they are trimmed, and ornamented with lace, gives to them an almost endless variety. In dinner dress, frocks with cased bodies still continue predominant, and we regret to say that the bosom and shoulders are, with a few exceptions, as much as ever ex posed. Some ladies who consult delicacy and taste rather than fashion, do indeed adopt small lace tippets, some of which we have seen both tasteful and fanciful, at Mrs. Bell's, and they might be worn even in the fullest dress, from the elegant light. ness of their texture, and the costliness of their materials; and some others continue the fashion described in one of our late within the last month; the crown is no longer of that frightful height which rendered them so unbecoming, and the front is made more in the style of an English cottage bonnet. For this improvement in the shape of these bonnets we are indebted to Mrs. Bell, whose elegant walking bon-Numbers, of a rich laced high body under nets, in satin, lace, &c. have been very unsuccessfully copied in straw. The garlands, with which they were at first ornamented have given place to that more appropriate ornament a ribband, which is in general straw colour; it is plaited round the front of the bonnet, and tied under the chin; a single flower is sometimes placed by the side. Satin and coloured sarsuets are higher in favour than straw, but lace and muslin are quite on the decline. The carriage costume offers great variety, though little novelty; spensers, pelisses, mantles, and high dresses are all worn, the latter made of French washing silks, with rich French silk shawls or scarfs thrown carelessly over the shoulders, are, we think, higher in estimation than any thing else, although we have seen a most curious variety of fichus, or small shawls for the neck. Green and white, and purple and white plaid silks are most in request; plaided silks of all colours are more or less worn. For the morning costume, notwithstand a frock dress; but the number of these fair votarists of delicacy, is comparatively displayed in dinner parties as in full dress. small, and the neck is in general as much India muslin, and white and figured sarsnets are most in estimation for dinner parties; we see, however, many dresses in washing silks, and here we cannot help observing, that some distinction ought to be made in the texture, as well as the form of morning and dinner dress, since the materials of both ought not certainly to be the same. dresses, is an elegant frock of the finest The only novelty in dinner India muslin, tastefully embroidered round the bottom, bosom, and sleeves, in a wreath of white lace leaves, slightly embroidered into the muslin. The body is made tight to the shape, and laced up on each breast, nearly to the embroidery, with a white silk cord, the lacing is finished at the top with a small bow of narrow white satin ribband. Plain short full sleeve. A short white lace apron, and a broad white satin sash, richly embroidered at the ends in coloured silks, and finished with a white silk fringe, completes this dress, which has altogether an extremely tasteful and elegant effect. For full dress, plain white lace frocks over white satin slips are higher in estimation than any thing else; the bodies and sleeves of these dresses are either composed of rich letting-in lace, or else the body is formed of a plain piece of lace cased, and each of the casings, four in number, is ornamented with a rich narrow lace. The sleeve is composed of three points of either letting-in, or plain lace, trimmed round with narrow lace to correspond with the body; and each point is fastened down to a white satin sleeve underneath, by a small pearl ornament. The bottom of this dress is very tastefully ornamented with a rich letting-in lace, laid in in waves, and finished with a broad flounce of lace. We must here remark, that the shapes are manifestly improved since Mrs. Bell's invention of the Circassian corsets, as they are made without steel, whalebone, or hard substances, the wearer always exhibits ease, gracefulness, and dignity; this improvement in corsets, we are happy to find, has met with the decided approbation of every lady of taste in dress: and should be most generously encouraged, since physicians declare that nothing more imperceptibly injures the health, than the wearing these incongruous trammels, steel and whalebone. Pregnant ladies have great reason to rejoice at the invention; nothing can possibly be more desirable for else embroidered in silver or coloured silks, is very much iu favour. In half-dress small lace caps begin to be very prevalent, and we have observed on some elegantés half-handkerchiefs of white lace tied round the head, and ornamented with a flower at the side. In full dress we have nothing new to announce since our last Number, except that turbans appear to be getting into greater favour. No alteration has taken place in the manner of dressing the hair since last month.. Crape spangled French fans are in the highest estimation. Fashionable colours for the month continue the same as for the last. PARISIAN FASHIONS. THE gowns worn at court are made with a full drapery, in the chemise style; they are laced behind, and mittens are worn, with short sleeves, trimmed at the hand with blond: the trimming of the gowns worn in full dress are very simple; sometimes they have corkscrewed ornaments, the same as the gown, or a broad lettingin of lace, with a narrow satin ribband down the middle. On cloaks and mantles are seen in general two quillings either of muslin or lace, one narrower than the other, the narrowest next the figure. Many of the fashionables place narrow ribbands at about an inch distance from each other, and form a band of several rows round chip or straw hats. Flat feathers, and generally Crape is next to lace in estimation for of white, prevail most in full dress. Pinks, full dress, but coloured crapes are very roses, and corn in full ear, form the bou- ́ much on the decline; blue and pale amber quets for the bosom. Sometimes flowers are, however, worn by a few elegantés, are worn, what the Parisian belles call àthey are embroidered either in white silk l'Angloise, which is under a small bonnet; or silver, lace not being worn to coloured or else at the ear of a larger bonnet. Legdresses. White crape embroidered in co- horn hats are not much worn; the straw loured silks is very high in estimation, and hats which have taken place of them are it must always be considered as very ele- generally ornamented with straw trimgant. For matronly belles, white satinmings or flowers. White ribbauds are trimmed with rich white silk fringe, or now in high favour. them. MONTHLY MISCELLANY, INCLUDING VARIETIES, CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL. THE THEATRES. HAYMARKET.—A piece, under the whimsical name of Love and Gout; or, Arrivals and Marriages, was produced on Tuesday, Aug. 23, at this theatre. It is difficult to say to what species it belongs, Comedy or Farce; the swarm of play writers it is more difficult to classify, than the particulars in the Linnæan system; every one is almost sui generis, and pleads his own exception from the standard laws of nature. This piece is said to be written by a gentleman of much talent, Mr. Jameson; and it is, unquestionably, a composition of considerable dramatic || merit; it has abundant materials for mirth, and a reasonable adherence to truth and probability. If it does not in fact hold the mirror up to nature, and reflect the true image and body of men and manners, it avoids, nevertheless, that gross distortion and caricature, which disgusts us in many other pieces. The characters were thus filled : Sir Solomon Gander Old Ardent........... Young Ardent Mr. Rusty... Shears ........... .Mr. Terry .Mr. Mathews Mr. Brunton Mr. Tokely .Mr. Jones .Mr. Russell .Mr. Hamerton .Mr. Mason .Mrs. Grove Sabrina Darnley.............................. ......Miss Seymour. The principal features of the plot are these :Young Ardent, in his passage out to India, in search of a wealthy uncle, has been taken by a French privateer, and the piece opens with his arrival in this country, from Verdun, in consequence of the cessation of hostilities. He is accompanied by Miss Darnley, with whom he becomes acquainted in his captivity, and whom he passionately loves. Old Ardent, his uncle, to whom he is utterly unknown, sets up at the same hotel. He has just arrived from Bath, on a matrimonial errand. Being much afflicted with the gout and other diseases, the never-failing attendants of high living and a warm climate, he determines to marry a lady with whom he formed an acquaintance in Bath, and who pretends to be a maiden, of the name of Dimple. The identity of the name of the unknown uncle and nephew, is productive of some of the best scenes of equivoque which the stage can boast. After a good deal of cross-purpose play, in the course of which the jealousy of Lady Gander is ludicronsly excited, an eclaircissement takes place. Miss Dimple's No. 62.-Vol. X. matrimonial project is blasted-her husband, Mr. Rusty, a discontented character, who has left her twenty years before, and had been long a detenu in France, makes his appearance just in time to forbid the bans. Old and Young Ardent discover their consanguinity. The latter receives the hand of the fair Sabrina Darnley, who turns out to be the niece of Sir Solomon Gandera discovery which accounts for the young lady's visits to the Baronet, and removes the jealousy of his termagant wife. This piece was well received, and the author was principally indebted to that incomparable performer, Mathews, who bore the principal weight of the piece upon his shoulders, and has thereby earned a new laurel for his brow. Terry's acting was likewise excellent, and Jones's Fop, as usual, was extremely amusing. EDWARD IN SCOTLAND. AT the French Theatre has lately been represented a new drama, entitled Edward in Scotland; an outline of which, we make no doubt, will be acceptable to our readers. Prince Edward, or the Pretender, is supposed to have re-assembled, on the borders of Scotland, some thousands of Highlanders, faithful to his title, his rights, and his misfortunes. In a short time this insurrection threatens to shake the throne, and revolutionize all England. Edinburgh itself sinks under the power of this heroic Prince, and the neighbouring uations await with anxious curiosity, the result of his hazardous enterprize. The battle of Falkirk seems to promise success; that of Culloden destroys all his hopes. Some days after, the action commences in a Scottish isle wherein he had taken refuge, while he waited for fresh succour, and a reinforcement of troops from France. This island is also inhabited by some people belonging to the Earl of Athol, one of the most loyal officers of George I. But the castle is then only occupied by the Countess of Athol, the favourite friend of the Queen, and by her niece, Miss Malvina Macdonald. There is only one young officer, full of zeal and devotion for his King, that the Duke of Cumberland has charged to pursue the Pretender and his followers to the very last, and who has just been received into the house of the Earl of Athol, whom he does not personally know, but to be allied to whom he has long been ambitious. This is Lord Asgill, who is charmed with Miss Macdonald, who returns his love. Miss Macdonald, however, is secretly devoted to the cause of the Pretender; she has seen him, and even helped to save him; she be longed to a family who served under him, and S The her heart has not forgot their precepts. cruel mission on which Lord Asgill is sent disquiets her, without diminishing her love; but she makes a solemn vow in secret, that he shall never fulfil this mission. Her every other wish is about to be accomplished. The Earl of Athol is at no great distance, and the lovers wait only his return to be united. Unhappily this moment, so dear to their hopes, is retarded by an accident which nearly cost the Earl his life. The vessel in which he was embarked, by the pilot's want of skill, entered a dangerous strait, and was wrecked; the crew escaped this dreadful peril, and were saved by some fishermen on the opposite shore, amongst whom they remained till the storm was over. A man, pale, terrified, covered with rags, and in great disorder of mind, is introduced into the house of the Earl of Athol, without knowing to whom it belongs, and comes to crave the master's pity; this man is one proscribed, and this proscribed man is Edward! At the name of the Earl of Athol, he hears that of his most inveterate enemy; but in this enemy he sees nothing to fear he is sure of his generosity, the grandeur of his soul, and he had the happiness of saving his life when at Rome. Lady Athol hastens to receive the unknown; but he has been surprised by sleep, of which he had been deprived for five nights, and in this troubled sleep, agitated by uneasiness and dread, he reveals, himself, his dangerous secret. Lady Athol reflects on the ties which bind her to the court of George; but claims more sacred attach her to the cause of humanity. The Pretender is the enemy of the state, he is her enemy also; but he is a man and unhappy. Her cares, therefore, are only employed to conceal him from the soldiers who are in pursuit of him, who menace him with new misfortunes and an ignomi nious death. Lord Asgill now appears, and surprises Edward bathed in tears, at the feet of his protectress! Asgill has been just informed of the accident which had befel the Earl of Athol, be has been apprised of his speedy return, he thinks he recognizes the Earl in the proscribed person before him, and not the man that the Duke of Cumberland has ordered him to 'pursue his error dissipates the fear of Lady Athol; she quickly seizes it, confirms the opinion of Asgill, with much address, and the unhappy Edward is safe for a time. Under the guidance of a faithful domestic, it is settled that he shall depart, as soon as a ship can be in readiness, under the name of the Earl of Athol, who has not long been a proprietor of those domains in the island, then belonging to him; he had never visited them, and is unknown in the place; and being employed several years in the wars against Holland and Brabant, he is a stranger to all his vassals, to the greater part of the officers of the Scotch army, and to Miss Macdonald. It is then to the Earl of Athol, she thinks she is about to be presented, when she perceives the Prince Edward, of whom she is also the tutelary angel. An unknown has now been seized on the bor ders, who gives himself out for the Earl of Athol. Asgill imagines this can only be some proscribed person; but in the opinion of the wife it can only be Lord Athol himself: the really proscribed man, however, is not yet gone, and the Earl could not arrive till night. The vessel is in readiness, but a suspicious officer has sent it off. The Pretender is then guided by a clever and devoted servant across some rocks which lead from the Castle to the sea, but all the avenues are carefully guarded. French vessels have been descried at a short distance from the shore; but Edward cannot attain them; it is already suspected that he is in the island, he is pursued, and on the point of being taken; firing is heard, and from the windows of the saloon may be perceived, by the light of a rising moon, Edward almost yielding to their numbers. one. He then returns to Lady Athol; Asgill has saved him from his enemies, because he only sees in him the Earl of Athol, and he attributes all he has beheld to a nocturnal mistake; but the misfortunes and dangers of Edward now only increase. It is not long before the Earl will ap pear in his castle to claim his contested title. The departure of the Pretender cannot yet be effected, and three English officers are added to the table of my Lady, where the proscribed, who fills the place of her husband, is obliged to seat himself. One of the guests, who nourishes the most viodestruction to the last of their race; and the lent hatred against the Stuarts, proposes to drink Prince, not being able to master his feelings, says he will not drink to the destruction of any This simple sentence produces a strong effect. At length Lord Athol arrives, and recognizes the Pretender; an involuntary emotion prompts him to name him, but a more sacred sentiment withholds him; he recalls the time when Edward saved his life at Roine, and he saves him now in his turn, by letting him still pass for himself; but the error of the officers who surround him cannot be prolonged; the Duke of Cumberland has disembarked, he who conquered Edward at Culloden, who is personally acquainted both with Edward and the Earl of Athol, and who directs his steps now to the Castle of the latter. Edward seizes a fortunate moment, and, under pretence of going out to meet the Prince, he trusts himself to the fidelity of his guide, and tries, by one new effort, to effect his flight. He succeeds, and a line written on his tablets, and thrown from aboard a French vessel which has penetrated into the bay close to the Castle, informs his generous protectors that he has nothing farther to fear from his enemies. He is saved, and beneficence triumphs. |