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The following lines are also equally fine lines, can only be equalled by the fre

on the art of painting :

"Immortal art! nor sense of taste has he,
Nor glow of soul, who finds no charms in thee;
His heart is shut to nature-coarse and cold,
A clumsy cast of her half-finished mould:
For such in vain the beams of beauty rise,
Adorn the earth, and glitter in the skies;
In vain her charms the enchantress Fancy flings,
To deck the rough reality of things;

To lure from low delights of sense, and raise
The ambrosial relish of immortal praise."

The second part of this poem treats more on the subject of historical painting; and the picture of Hercules strangling the Serpents, and that of Cupid under the displeasure of Venus, are well described. Next follows an energetic address to Grace and Beauty; where the personification of Taste guiding Reynolds, is well conceived :

"Hail, Beauty, hail! ethereal beam that plays
On human hearts, and kindles Passion's blaze!
His fires to thee immortal genius owes,
Of thee enamoured still his bosom glows;
Blessed in thy smile he burns with double flame,
And tastes his heaven on earth-in love and fame;
The only joys a care-worn world can give,
Which makes it bliss-to feel, and life-to live.
Sun of his world! as to the orb of day,
The flower reverting, drinks its vital ray,
To thee the painter turns his eye-his heart,
His lamp of life!—his light and heat of art!
Thy visions beaming o'er his fate, diffuse;
The glow of Taste-the lustre of the Muse;
They chear his arduous progress, and repair
The wrongs of fortune, in the course of care.
"Warm at her shrine, when Reynolds early
paid

His ardent vows, and first invoked her aid;
The Goddess soon her favourite's claim allowed,
And drew her votary from the vulgar crowd;
Led him to fields which no rude step defiles;
On Nature's lap, where infant Beauty similes;
To secret bowers where oft reclined of yore;
For Zenxis sake, fair Helen's form she wore ;
Where, full revealed, in all her heaven of charms,
She blessed Apelles-in Campaspes' arms.
Where Titian too, more recent, went to rove
"Midst Loves and Graces-favourite of the grove;
Her image traced, through every form and hue,
With rapture wrought, and rivalled as he drew.
"Here Reynolds oft with Taste delighted
strayed,

And caught some nymph divine in every shade.
To meet his eye, where'er the master moved,
The bowers grew brighter, and the paths im-
proved;

In glowing groups the Graces sought to shine,
And asked for life-in bis immortal line."

The description of Cardinal Beaufort's picture, on his death bed, in the following

touches of Reynolds in that exquisite pit of painting, formerly in the Shakespe Gallery, and now in the possession of t Earl of Egremont :

"But what sad victim here, of crimes untol Arrests the sight-that shudders to behold? With conscience more contending than death,

Ambitious Beaufort, yields his parting breat
A ghastly grin denotes-in direful fray,
He meets the King of Terrors with dismay;
He writhes, he raves, convulsed with pain
fear,

And all he dreads hereafter-suffers here.
For not the body's agony alone,

We trace in each distorted feature thrown;
The busy fiend, the power of guilt declares,
'Tis the soul's anguish-and the wretch desp
Beside the bed of death, with uprais'd hand,
We see his pious pitying sovereign stand.
In vain to touch the sinner's heart he tries,

Or wake his hope of mercy in the skies;
Remorse anticipates the wrath divine,
In horror plunged,―he dies and makes no sign

lows the Commemoration. It contains ere
A poem entitled the Shade of Nelson,
just and appropriate praise to Engla
great maritime hero, but all tribute
been already exhausted on the glorious s
ject, and nothing new remains to be st
The few lines on the death of Opie, in th
collection, are short enough to form
epitaph; they are a well-merited eulog
on the taste and skill of that exce
painter. But Ellen, a plaintive and inte
esting ballad, affixed to this volume,
not be enough admired: sorry we are
it is not in our power to transcribe
whole; the following extracts are suffic
however, to point out its beauties:-
"Twas midnight, and bleak blew the brea
November,

The rain, half-congealed, fast descending
sleet;
When Albert, long doom'd in despair to rem
ber,

From a tavern carousal rushed forth to

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Yet she felt not the blast, tho' but little availed her,

A light mourning mantle disordered and thin; And 'twas plain, tho' the wind, cold, and rain sore assailed her,

That without 'twas a calm-to the tempest within."

At sight of her seducer she shrieks, and the following lines lead to her history :"Ah! well might the poor hapless Ellen deplore her,

Well sink under sorrows too poignant to bear! For behold! the base author of all stood before her,

* །

Of her sufferings past hope-of her wrongs past repair.

Like a rose-bud she bloomed in old Walsingham's bower,

Breathing sweets o'er the eve of his war-wasted day;

"Twas Albert that blasted the beautiful flower, That rifled the rose-bud, and cast it away."

It is impossible for us to transcribe, what we could really wish, as we before observed, the whole of this affecting poem; for though the tale of Ellen's seduction is much on a par with that of many other betrayed

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FASHIONS.

FOR

JANUARY, 1815.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.

who, if they consult the annals of fashion, will find that nothing similar has ever been introduced before, and its effect is at once rich, striking, and tasteful; but in fact, we cannot do it justice in description, and this we are sure will be acknow

No. 1.-MORNING WALKING DRESS. Black velvet slip, finished at the bottom with a double row of perfectly novel trimming. Over this dress is a black satin pelisse, lined with rose-colour sarsnet, made in a style the most novel, tasteful, and becoming that we ever remem-ledged by every lady who has seen the oriber to have seen. The form of this dress is perfectly original, and has never before been introduced. The trimming, which is at once superb and tasteful, is composed of stamped velvet; it is infinitely superior to embroidery, for which it is intended as a substitute. If we may venture to judge of the estimation in which it is held, by the demand there is for it, we may safely pronounce it likely to rival all other trimmings for pelisses. Its novelty must render it desirable to ladies of taste in dress;

ginal pelisse. A piece of rich worked muslin, or pointed lace, stands up round the bosom, and partly shades an elegant small tippet of the newly invented Britannia pearl fur.— These tippets, which are now much worn, are particularly appropriate to dark silk, or velvet pelisses, as they considerably heighten their effect. Head-dress, the Britannia pearl fur hat; it may be termed the most tasteful and appropriate head-dress of the season; it is lined with white satin, and ornamented in a most tasteful style, with a beautiful

plume of white feathers. The Britannia hat is exquisitely adapted to the first style of promenade dress, and is unquestionably an elegant improvement on the French bonuets, and possessing infinitely more taste. The materials of this hat are ex

tremely appropriate for head-dresses; it is so much richer, and considerably lighter

than either velvet or seal skin, and more adapted to the season than satin or any sort of silk. Large sized muff, composed also of Britannia pearl fur.

No. 2.-WALKING DRESS. French cambric walking dress, very short in the waist, and the body à-la chemise, superbly appliqued with letting in lace. Long sleeve ornamented in a similar manner all the way down. The mantle which is worn with this dress, is composed of the finest Morone, or plumb-colour cloth, lined with white sarsnet; the form of this mantle is the most striking, tasteful, elegant, and original that we have ever seen. For the shape we refer our readers to the Plate. The fullness at top is composed of satin, to correspond with the cloak, laid on in folds. The trimming, which is a mixture of floss silk and chenille, is the most elegant novelty of the kind that has ever been introduced. We have no hesitation in saying, that it is infinitely superior in effect to any of the silk trimming now worn, and it is, perhaps, the only one of them, the pattern of which is perfectly novel and original. This mantle will be found particularly desirable for delicate women in the present severe weather, from its being wadded round the shoulders and bosom, a circumstance, however, which by no means prevents its displaying the shape to the utmost advantage in that respect; indeed it claims a decided preference, since nothing can be more elegantly becoming. Improved French bonnet of black Britannia pearl fur, ornamented with a light elegant plume of feathers to correspond. Peach-blossom gloves and half-boots.

The above dresses were invented by Mrs. Bell, Inventress of the Ladies Chapeau Bras and the Circassian Corsets, and of whom only they can be had, at her Magazin des Modes, No. 26, Charlotte street, Bedford

square.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON

FASHION AND DRESS.

Pelisses are, we think, more prevalent than they were; cloaks, mantles, &c. though they continue to be worn, are not in such high estimation as pelisses. The one which we have given in our Print, is by far the most admired; but we have also seen tion, are yet considered as fashionable, and ́ two others, which though in less estimaare certainly tasteful and becoming. The first is made either in the Angola cloth, the back, which is quite loose, is formed into the shape by two bias pieces of satin, of the same colour as the cloth; they are sloped handkerchief fashion, and form the shape of the back, in a manner the most novel and tasteful; they are edged with a very narrow and light silk fringe, to correspond; they cross at bottom, and to each of them is affixed a rich silk cord and tassel, which lies at the side. The front is fastened down with hooks and eyes inside, and ornamented with tufts of floss silk, to each of which two very light and small tassels depend on the outside; the trimming of the bottom is tasteful and novel in no common degree, it is composed of folds of mingled cloth and satin, so disposed, as to have at a distance the appearance of an embroidery in large leaves; long sleeve, slashed down the middle with satin, to correspond; the sleeve is slashed in five or six places, and the slashes are small; the satin is disposed in folds; small half sleeve of satin edged with silk fringe.

The other pelisse which we have mentioned, is composed of dark green merino cloth; it is made tight to the shape, and very short in the waist. There is nothing novel in the form of this pelisse, but the trimming is extremely tasteful; it is an embroidery of light green silk Russia braiding, in what taylors term claws, one is placed on each breast, at each hip, and a row goes up the front, and round the bottom; it is done in very full silk, and has really an uncommonly pretty effect. pelisse is made with a collar, which the former is not. Collars, indeed, are by no means general, although the time of year would certainly render them very appropriate; but the scarfs which we mentioned

This

in our last Number, and which still con- bandage is recommended by medical gentinue to be in high estimation, are in some tlemen to ladies immediately after their degree a substitute for them; but a much || accouchement. It is well worthy the attenmore novel one has just been introduced by tion of such ladies as have had their shape Mrs. Bell-we allude to the small Britannia in some degree injured, by having a family, pearl fur tippets, which are at once elegant or who are inclined to corpulency; to such and comfortable, and which, though but ladies the Circassian corset, with the banjust introduced, are yet in the highest esti- dage attached, will be found a most desiramation. ble and healthful stay. It is well known that numbers of ladies, from a desire to preserve their shape, compress it in a manner that frequently injures their health in the greatest degree, those ladies may be assured, that the Circassian corset and bandage, will answer every purpose of the stiffest stay, while, at the same time, they give to the form that ease and gracefulness, which superfluities of whalebone and steel must inevitably destroy.

In the carriage costume Mrs. Bell's mantle and evening wrap are the only novelties; the latter is now considered by ladies of taste, as an indispensible appendage to the evening carriage costume. The uncertainty of our climate, and the constant dampness of the air at night, renders it very necessary for delicate women to be carefully defended from the cold, even in getting in and out of a carriage, and certainly nothing that ever was invented for the purpose is so perfectly appropriate, and so elegantly tasteful as the evening wrap; it does not in the smallest degree discompose the lightest and most elegant dress, and while it completely envelopes the form, and prevents the possibility of a lady's taking cold; the figure is displayed to advantage, instead of being disguised by shawls, tippets, &c. and as the becoming is, generally speaking, a consideration of some weight with our fair fashionables, we do not wonder that a cloak which is at once elegant, comfortable, and becoming, should be held in universal estimation.This mantle has superseded every thing else for the carriage costume with belles of taste.

The various hats and bonnets worn by belles of taste, in the walking costume, have been so completely superseded by Mrs. Bell's newly invented Britannia pearl fur, and silk mole skin bonnets and hats, that it is superfluous to describe them; the original stiff, high crowned, and unbecoming bonnet introduced into this country in the summer, has by the good taste of this lady been metamorphosed into one of the most becoming and appropriate walking bonnets that can be worn.

The Circassian corsets have lost nothing of their attraction, and we find that Mrs. Bell has added to them a bandage which has the effect of keeping the figure perfectly in shape, without the smallest danger to the health; indeed, on the contrary, the

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It may not be superfluous to observe, that the Circassian corset is the only one which displays, without indelicacy, the shape of the bosom to the greatest possible advantage; it gives a width to the chest, which is equally conducive to health, and to elegance of appearance,

Morning dresses continue to be made as they were last month, except that the waists have imperceptibly shortened, till they cannot be made any shorter. Long sleeves also, we think, are worn something looser: in other respects they continue the same. There has been a considerable revolution, however, since our last Number, in the materials of which they are composed; French washing silks are entirely exploded, and chintz but partially worn; cloth is now in the highest estimation.-Merinos, half twills, kerseymeres, and Angolas, are universal.

For dinner-dress, black and coloured velvets, satins, and French double-sided silks, are, we think, highest in request; but Irish poplins, sarsnets, and satin cloths are also much worn.

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pond with the gown: this front is trimmed is slooped with pearls. The body of the round with a quilling of blond, and finish-robe is loose, and confined to the waist by ed at each side of the front with an ornament similar to that placed on the hips. The bottom of the skirt is finished by a very broad flounce of blond lace, which is festooned with silk ornaments, to correspond with those on the body, but much smaller; these ornaments, which are of floss silk in the form of stars, are very beautiful, and extremely novel. Short festooned sleeve of net, to correspond with the stomacher, and edged with a quilling of|| blond. A short French apron of blond net, trimmed with a quilling of net, is considered as indispensible with this dress. We have not seen any thing introduced into the dinner costume for a considerable time that we considered so elegant as this dress, which, we think, would look even better in lighter materials.

The trimming of dinner-dresses for our most tasteful elegantes is generally blond lace, which is always finished with a beading of the fashionable French edge. Lace, however, though the most prevalent, is not the only trimming, as embroidery is also in much request, and silk trimmings are partially worn.

The

In full-dress we have observed some variation since last month. French gauze appears to decline in estimation. White lace over white satin, or sarsnet, is at present considered as most tonish. Coloured crapes also, which have been on the decline for some time, begin to be very much worn. Frocks continue to be very great favourites in full-dress, and the beautiful one which we gave in our Print last month, has lost nothing of its estimation. only novelty which we have to present to our readers, is a French dancing-dress of white crape, which has been just brought over; and never, surely, did the sprightly Parisian belles "trip it on the light fantastic toe," in a style of more elegant decoration than that which we are about to describe. White satin slip, superbly embroidered round the bottom in festoons of miniature steel spangles, in a wreath of myrtle. Over this slip a white crape robe opens on one side, and folding round on the other so as to form a drapery, is worn, it is embroidered to correspond with the bottom of the dress in festoons, each of which

a cestus, which is excessively becoming to the shape, and which forms the bosom in a most novel manner. The cestus is embroidered to correspond with the dress. Full sleeve'as short as it can be made, composed of two folds of crape, tastefully looped in opposite directions with pearl. The appearance of this dress is striking and tasteful, beyond our powers of description, but there are some little alterations wanted to render it a costume which English delicacy can approve; it displays the bosom even more than our own dresses, and the petticoat is by much too short in front. We have had occasion formerly to mention the happy manner in which Mrs. Bell adapts the French fashions to the more correct style of costume worn by British belles, and we conceive that this robe, the name of which we have not learned, might, by a few judicious alterations, such as her elegant taste would doubtless suggest, be rendered the most becoming and tasteful ball-dress that has appeared for some time.

Small lace caps and handkerchiefs are very general for half-dress, there is not, however, much novelty in their form. Princess Charlotte of Wales's cap, is extremely elegant, and in general becoming, but it differs very little from the Mary Queen of Scots cap; the crown is smaller, and it does not come quite so much over the face, it is ornamented with a small bunch of winter flowers placed to the side.

The most elegant style of full-dress for our juvenile belles is the hair braided with strings of pearl; on dark hair the effect is beautiful, but we by no means think it becoming to blonde belles, who would look infinitely better in those dark winter flow||ers, so becoming to a fair beauty, and so appropriate to the spring of life; or if they must wear pearls, why can they not be intermingled with narrow black velvet? youth and beauty should not submit to the tyranny of the mode, nor sacrifice the becoming to the fashsionable. For matronly belles, turbans, ornamented with feathers and diamonds, are very general. Coloured stones are in the highest estimation, and are worn in the hair in various forms, but we think the crescent is the most prevalent. In jewellery we have only to observe,

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