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volution in their form, they are now all y flowers are in the highest estimation for the made cased in the back and sleeves, if of || walking costume.--English cottage bonsarsnet, but if muslin, they are cased all nets, invented by Mrs. Bell, vying in size through the body; the casings are three to- and garlands with the French ones, are in gether, as small as they can possibly be equal if not in more general estimation; the made, and there is a distance of two inches | most fashionable material of which these bonbetween them. The sleeves are done in the nets are composed is fine willow; but they
are worn in lace, muslin, silk, and blond Pelisses are made up to the neck, and || and ribband mixed: the only one of these notwithstanding the heat of the weather || bonnets which we have ever thought enthey have in general a cased collar, which titled to the appellation, is to be seen at is edged round, as is also the ends of the Mrs. Bell's Magasin des Modes. There is sleeves and the bottom of the pelisse with some difference in the form, but what it is lace. The waists are worn as short as pos we cannot exactly point out: we can only sible, and the skirts fuller than we have say, that we have seen it on a lady who seen them for some time.
looks most bewitching in it, and what was The observations which we have made rather singular, she had just pulled off one upon pelisses are equally applicable to which had been brought from Paris, spensers, except that in clear muslin spen- | which was certainly the reverse of besers narrow letting-in lace is substituted coming. for the casings, which has, in our opinion, In the carriage costume spensers of ena much prettier and less formal effect. tire white, lace over pale pink, azure, or
The high chintz dresses are, for the straw-colour, are very general; they are street, of a very small pattern, the ele- | composed of plain net-lace about a nail in gant one which we have given in our width, sewed very full to a letting-in lace Print, being exclusively a Bathing-dress; of not quite an inch in breadth; the sleeves but for the walking costume small pattern are made in the same manner, and are flowered chiptz is univeral; they are made | finished at the wrist by a narrow lace.-cased in the body and sleeves, and are worn The spenser, which is high in the back, up to the neck, but they have no collar; a has a second front of entire broad lace, blond lace, ruff-edged with narrow ribband | which falls over as a cape behind, and is to correspond with the predominant colour thrown back; it reaches nearly half-aof the chintz, is substituted for it. The quarter below the waist, and finishes in a dress, which fastens in front, is trimmed point. down with silk ornaments of a very novel White satin spensers also are still in high form, and three rows of scollops, placed one estimation for the carriage costume; but above another round the bottom, are orna the most truly elegant pelisse that we have mented with a light narrow silk fringe to seen is the French pelisse; it is made in correspond with the predominant colour in || white satin, the upper part of the back is the dress. These dresses are elegant, sim a plain piece which goes just between the ple, and extremely well calculated for the shoulders, the lower part is very full. This undress of a gentlewoman; if there is any | pelisse may be called a three-quarter dress, thing to be said against them, it may be it is not so low as a frock, nor does it come perhaps objected that they appear rather | up to the neck; the points of the dress are too warm for the time of year.
so contrived as to meet in the middle of the French washing silks, as they are called, back, and form a cape, which is certainly though of their possessing this economical || the prettiest and most tasteful that we have quality we must be permitted to doubt, are ever seen, it is rounded behind, and falls made in precisely the same way, except that over the shoulders, and the pelisse either the trimming, which is a silk fancy trim- | meets or flies back in front at pleasure; ming to correspond with the dress, is ex- || long plain sleeves, except at top, which had tremely expensive. They are in high esti- three pieces of satin let in, each was about mation.
half-a-quarter in length, and nearly the French bonnets made of satin, sarsnet, same in breadth, they were finished round or willow, literally loaded with artificial with a narrow but extremely elegant silk
trimming. The pelisse is all cut round in three rows of scollops edged with lace scollops, which are finished with the light. || finished it round the skirt. A French est and most beautiful silk fringe we have | apron of white lace scolloped round, and eter seen. There has not been any thing | trimmed with a broad lace put on very full, introduced in the carriage costume for a the pockets trimmed with a narrow lace to considerable time at once so elegant and so correspond with that on the dress; and a becoming as this pelisse.
lace bib, which forms a very pretty front Small French hats of white satin, orna over the silk one; the bib is as low as a mented, not loaded, with flowers, are very frock bosom, it is an entire piece of lace, general in the carriage costume; but the and has really an elegant effect. Princess Charlotte of Wales's hat, is we In dinner dresses we again meet with think in the highest estimation; it is worn cased bodies; frocks now are all made with in all the fashionable colours for the month, them, but they differ from the morning but we conceive it to be more elegant in | dresses by being single casings, they are white satin than any thing else. The crown also as narrow as they can be made.is oval, and the front which is extremely | Waists are shorter than ever, and the novel and becoming, is composed of three || dresses fall as much as usual off the shouldrows of scollops one above another, which ers. The sleeve highest in estimation is a are edged with real or mock pearl; two triple epaulet of lace; the bosoms of frocks ostrich feathers fall over to the left side. are not cut or sliped in any way, but formed This hat is extremely tasteful and elegant, by the casings to fit the shape in the most and as it is but just introduced we may becoming manner. venture to predict that it will continue for Rich worked muslin over coloured slips a considerable time a favourite. It may be is the highest in estimation for dinner agreeable to our readers to be informed | dresses, and they are trimmed in every that it may be seen at Mrs. Bell's.
possible way with lace. Sarsnets are howThe principal novelty in the morning cos ever worn by many elegantés. Ribband tume is the cased bodies, which though novel trimmings have declined very much, but are not new; they are a revived fashion. | fringe and silk fancy trimmings are uniThe chintz, that we have described, are versal. equally an in and out-door costume, but For full dress, crape and white lace are jacconet muslin is the most universal; and || universal. Coloured slips are now worn the lace mania, which we have so often only for dinner dresses. In crape, white is pientioned, is not at all decreased, on the the most predominant; but azure, the colour contrary our fair fashionables become daily | of the wild rose, and evening primrose, are more ingenious in the manner of using it; | also very general; straw colour is also besides the double, and sometimes treble
worn by a few elegantés, but we must flowers of lace, there is generally a quan- || beg leave to remind them, that it always tity of letting-in down the front; or if this looks like dirty white by candle-light. is not the case, a small apron cut in scol- We have only one novelty to announce lops, edged with a narrow lace, has to our fair readers in full dress, and that is generally speaking, superseded the lace the Angouleme drapery, which is composed ruff's or frills; and collars even of lace are of white patent net, and is worn over a very little worn.
white satin slip; it is a cased frock body, Washing silks are very general for the with a triple epaulet sleeve; the sleeve, we morning costume; we have seen one which || must observe, is composed of very broad we thought extremely pretty, though in and rich lace; the drapery is open at the the days of our grave grandmothers it left side, it is about a quarter of a yard would have been looked on as too childish shorter than the gown, and is sloped a little for belles who were out of hanging sleeves: on the left side, but not rounded, but on it was a high frock, which laced behind, the right side it is rounded so as to display and came up to the throat, where it was the satin slip beneath it very much; the finished by a row of scollops, edged with drapery is edged with a broad and rich fine narrow lace; net long-sleeve was or- || lace, and two flounces of lace-are placed namented by a cuff to correspond, and I also at some distance one above the other,
he triple flounce of lace, and the fulness, and ornamented with a slight intermixture with which it is put on have, we think, ra of black filaments; they are of an uncomther a heavy effect, but we must own that mon length, and very dear. Straw loops it is magnificent. The slip is either cut and buttons begin to be in estimation. round the bottom in scollops, which are The artificial flowers most worn are those ornamented with fringe, or finished with of the season. Sweet pea and jessamine, embroidery. This dress is certainly defi- are, we observe, highest in estimation. cient in simplicity, but it is magnificent, Court dresses are now made in the simtasteful, and above all fashionable in the || plest manner, their form is d-la-chemise, highest degree.
they lace behind. Short sleeves à-la-sabot, The hair continues to be dressed in the trimmed with blond. The trimming of style described in our last Number.
these robes is in general extremely simple; Artificial flowers and light silver orna a roll of the same materials as the dress ments are in high estimation in full dress. I goes round it at bottom, and above that a Coloured stones are apparently declining : puckering umamented with tulle. The small pearl sprigs, which are just introduced, mantle is trimmed with two rolls, one of being, after diamonds, most worn by our which, that at bottom, is smaller than the elegantés.
other. Ostrich feathers appear at present, as well
“ Hats turned up at the side are once as turbans, to be confined to matronly more in favour, but they are not worn so belles; we have observed some extremely high as formerly, the crown is broad at top, elegant turbans composed of a crape half- || and narrows gradually towards the bot. handkerchief, richly embroidered in silver. tom. We remark upon the edges of all
In jewellery we have nothing new to the Chapeau d-la-Pamela in white straw, announce for full dress; in undress, white a plaiting of tulle, (letting-in lace,) the recornelian is universal.
mainder of the trimming consists of a white Slippers of leather or jane to correspond || satin ribband fastened at the side, and in with the dress, have superseded half-boots | flowers of the season.
We have already for the promenade costume. Half-boots of spoken of corn flowers, we must yow instrong silk which lace behind, and corre clude amongst those in estimation large spond in colour with the dress, are univer- || pinks. As the Chapeaus à-la-Pamela are sally adopted for the carriage costume. worn put very far back upon the head,
Dress slippers are now made either of which would, without something to fill up white kid or silk, they have no rosette, but the space between the hat and the face, are ornamented instead with an embroi. have a very ill effect, our belles wear a didery either in silk or silver.
minutive head-dress composed of tulle and Fans continue the same as last month. blonde. Les Coeffures de Presentation, are
Fashionable colours for the month are made in two ways-first, the hair the form evening primrose, azure, straw-colour, pea of a pyramid, not so high as formerly; and grass green, and the pink of the white pearl frontlet ornamented before and berose; it may be proper to observe, that hind with roses and lilies, and two blond white satin is now tinged with the latter lappets half an ell or three-quarters in colour.
length.-Second, a frontlet of pearl, four
small plumes and falling lappets; these PARISIAN FASHIONS.
last are an ell in length. We have spoken We present our fair readers with the of blond lappets, blond mantles and sleeves following extracts from the two last Jour- || constitute also an indispensable part of the nal des Dames :-“ Amongst the straw hats court dress. Muslin walking scarfs, lined which are at present in the highest estima- | with florentine silk are in high estimation, tion, we have particularly noticed the they are richly embroidered in leaves, they Chapeau à-la-Pamela, which is composed are trimmed with fine rows of Mechlin of satin straw, and ornamented with a lace, intermixed with embroidered bands; large cockade of straw-coloured ribband every row of the lace has a heading. The and three feathers. These feathers are re form of these walking scarfs is that of a markably beautiful, they are soft as down small open shawl."
LITERARY INTELLIGENCE. your revenue does not increase with your fami.
ly."_" Ab! Madame de Montliver, you are alBishop Horsley's translation of the Psalms of || ways making your little economical calcula. David, with notes, is printing in two octavo
tions.”_" Always, Sir, and shall still continue volumes.
them, unless you ean prove to me that a family The Rev. Frederic Nolan will publish in the may be kept with fine speeches.”—“Do you find course of the month, a Vindication of the Receiv your expences too great? Diminish them; that ed Text of the Greek Testament.
is your affair; but I must have my supper; it Mr. James Wathen's Journal of a Voyage, in is a delightful meal at the end of the day, and 1811 and 1812, to Madras and China, returning we may sit over it without preventing any busiby the Cape of Good Hope and St. Helena, is ness going on; it is a convivial repast, at which expected to appear in a few days.
every one is at his case, in a word, our suppers" The Rev. T. F. Dibdin is preparing for pub 2“ Are extremely disagreeable, since nothing lication, the Bibliographical Decameron, or Ten is spoken of but politics; and argument supplies Days' Pleasant Discourse upon the early State of the place of conversation.”-“ There is some the Fine Arts, ancient and modern Typography, || little reason in what you say, Madame de Montand Bibliography, embellished with nnmerous liver, and that is the way that we generally end engravings.
our disputes, by understanding each other. Let Mr. Jens Wolff has in the press a Tour to Co us now both speak with frankness; in regard to penhagen, through Norway and Sweden, inter domestic economy, to use the good things of life spersed with anecdotes of public and private is right, the evil is in the abuse; till now we characters, in a quarto volume, dedicated to have always had a few friends to sup with us ; Prince Christian, with portraits and other en now we will only receive them twice a week.”gravings.
“ And we will have only four different dishes." Edward Planta, Esq. has in the press, the _ So let it be.”_" And not one word of Stranger's Guide to Paris ; containing notices of politics during the desert.”—“That I also, agree every thing in the French capital that can be in
to.” teresting to strangers; together with a gazetteer
My wife has not lost the manners of the winof France, and a concise bistory of the king- | ning inistress in the wife and mother ; she has dom.
found the art of governing me, from the day in Miss Leonard will soon publish, the Ruby | which she saw that I preferred peace to authority, Ring, harmonized from the oriental story of Amu
and that by letting me have my own way it was rath, or the Power of Conscience, with engrav often the best means of inaking me renounce ings from her own designs.
what she wished I should. She is, besides, a Dr. Herbert Marsh is printing, in an octavo
most excellent woman, having a most tender af volume, a Comparative View of the Churches of fection for her children, and governs her house England and Rome.
with that order and good sense, which would Mr, J. J. Maxwell will soon publish, the do honour to a more brilliant government. Aquatic Tourist, on the Banks of the Thames, from
I will now speak a word or two of our most Westminster to Windsor.
intimate acquaintance, as I shall often have ocA new edition of Thoresby's Ducatus Leodinen
casion to bring them on the scene at our supsis, by Dr. Whitaker, vicar of Whalley, is pre
pers, and it is always well to know something of paring for publication, in a folio volume, illus
those we are going to meet, trated by numerous engravings.
M. Dubuisson, was for some time at the head
of an office during a long administration, and MANNERS OF THE FRENCH. had no other fault than that of thinking himself (Continued from our last.)
far superior to the situation he held, and never FIRST Supper of M. GUILLAUME. -« 1 | being able to make any one else think the same
of him; and he was of that character which often will have no more suppers at my house, that I
made me think he would be one of the most mi. am resolved on.”—“On that head, Madam, you serable of men if he had not the consolation of and I shall never agree: reflect, Madame, a
saying, that he had been granted many indullittle, if you please, on what I am: in this re
gences. This M. Dubuisson is one among the spect a very Roman; for twenty years this re
many who mistake their talent: he has good past has fallen into contempt in Paris ; I have
sense, and judges well of others, but complains kept up the custom in spite of all the sneers of that he is the dupe of his own fandy, when acthe haut ton; you would not, surely, wish me tually he has no fancy at all; notwithstanding, to lose the honour of my heroic perseverance !" he is a man of the strictest integrity, and just in -“ No, but I would wish you to reflect that all his dealings.
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE RE- || sioners of the Navy, the Ordnance, Victualling
CEPTION AND PURSUITS OF THE EM- Board, &c. in their respective uniforms. The
in a barge, similar to that of his Imperial Majesty, PRUSSIĄ.
with the Prussian flag at the bow. The Prince (Concluded from our last Number.) Regent, Marshal Blucher, and several other dis
tinguished foreign officers, as also the Royal Hyde PARX. - The exhibition in Hyde Park || Dukes, and the Lords of the Admiralty, went on on Sunday, June 12, was most extraordinary. I board the Admiralty state barge, which «!isplayed The Sovereigos, the Princes, the venerable Blu- at the stern the royal standard. The rest of the cher, Platoff, and all the other illustrious stran company embarked in the barges belonging to gers, mounted on the Prince Regent's borses, the different Boards, and the ships of war in the made their appearance in the ride; and it would | river, under their appropriate flags. At five seem as if every horse in the metropolis had re ininutes after uine, the flotilla set sail, amid the sorted thither. The pressure was intolerable; || acclamations of thousands and tens of thonsands, the horses were so jammed together, that many
who bad assembled on Westminster Bridge, the noblemen and gentlemen had their knees crnshed, banks of the river, the barges, and innumerable and their boots torn off. The interesting Blucher
small craft which had coilected, and proceeded was so cruelly persecuted, that he dismounted, | down the river against the tide, which had not and took refuge in Kensington Gardens; but || quite reached the full. The general appearance here being afuot, he was more annoyed.
of the ships in the river afforded a most interest. his back against a tree, and seemed at length ing spectacle. They all hoisted their colours quite exhausted. The coarse kindness of our in compliment to the Royal Party. The Momob is more formidable to him than all the ene narchs had an opportunity of seeing, at one mies he ever encountered. In the evening the glance, the Russian, Prussian, French, Swerish, Prince Regeut gave a second banquet to the above Danish, and other flags, boisted on vessels brought highly illustrious characters, the great warriors to the port of London by commerce only. Inde. who have jinmortalized their names by the pendent of this rare and pleasing display, there talents and military skill which they displayed in were stages erected on both sides of the river, bringing the war to a happy termination.
with flags bearing labels, such as the “ l'rince | AQUATIC TRIP TO WOOLWICH.-On Mon Regent and Commerce,"
,"" Trade and Navigaday, June 13, about eight o'clock in the morning, || tion,”—“ Peace,”—and other allusions equally the illustrious visitors were taken up at their re pleasing. The flotilla in its passage towards spective places of residence by the royal and other Deptford was continually hailed hy tle inultitude carriages, and proceeded to the Earl of Liver on shore, and the crews of the sitierent ships pool's mansion, which, from its contiguity to the
dressed in their best jackets and trowsers. place of embarkation, was made the general ren
was stationed on the truck of the Lifiey, a fine dezvons for the reception and accommodation of new built frigate, who joined, by waving his liat the company, who were to participate in the in the air, in the slouts which extended along pleasures of an aquatic excursion. At nine, the the margin of Old Thames. At Greenwich Huscoinpany came out the back way from the Earl of | pital an immense crowd was collected, and ihe Liverpool's, and walked through his Lordship's royal standard hoisted, in the expectation that garden to Whiteball Stairs, where the whole of || thcir Majesties and the Prince would inspect the the state barges belonging to the Admiralty, the College. A party of the Horse Guards was also Navy, the Ordnance Boards, the City Companies, ll stationed there to keep order. The Thisbe fri. the launches of the Enterprize, and of the men of gate, bearing the flag of Admiral Legge, fired a war at Deptford and Woolwich, together with || royal salute, and manned her yards. The effect several large boats with bauds of music, were in was grand, and the Sovereigus did not fail to exattendance to receive the angust Sovereigns, | press their adıniration of the scene.
Never was Priuces, heroes, nobility, and gentry, composing the Thames more honoured, never were the ad. the party, iu succession as they presented them mirers of nautical excellence more gratified. selves on the platform.
They saw at one view thousands of vessels froin The Emperor of Russia, in military uniform, all parts of the known world bringing the richest and the Duchess of Oldenburgh, were the first productions of foreign industry to the lap of upon the stairs, and embarked in a sinall hand Britannia. Victory may be seen in fields of battle; some six-oared barge, with the Russian flag dis- | splendid actions in warare to be traced in almost played at the head.' Then followed the King of every country; but where can our illustrious vi Prussia, the Prince Regent, the Dukes of York, sitors see a wood of ships and a range of ware. Clarence, Cambridge, and Kent; Generals Blu houses filled with stores, equal to those on the cher, Platoff, and, we believe, all the illustrious Thames? The flotilla passed the Neptune first. foreigners wlighave recently arrived in the capi- || rate, on the stocks at Woolwich, which bad been tal; as also Lod Melville, and the other Lords prepared for inspection, without going on board. of the Admiralty, the Cuinptroller and Commis On landing, the Moriarchs were received by No. 60.-Vol. X