so badly attended in the hospitals, and suffered so much from want of comfort, that they died by hundreds a day. Still I have strong reasons to believe, by the conversation I had, that all those whose recovery they thought doubtful were poisoned, to relieve the wants of those whose recovery was thought certain.

Cairo is in a bad state of discipline; murders are there committed almost every week, and the police so bad, that they do not give themselves the trouble to seek the assassins. In fact, the natives and Mamelukes hate and despise the Turks, and the Pachas of many parts of Egypt are not on terms with the Grand Signor, and many towns in revolt against the Beys; and the greatest part of the country presented scenes of confusion and disorder.

We stayed at Mahomed Bey's at Gizeh, five miles from old Cairo; a major and thirty Turks and Mamelukes escorted us to see the famous Pyramids. A Mameluke, who spoke Italian, said to Colonel Maxwell, my travelling companion, "You English are fools to come here to kill so many honest men, and chase them from this fine country. Why don't you chase those barbarians, the Turks, who are as ignorant as cruel, and destroy all the good you have done?"

The Bedouin Arabs do not fear the Turks, and many thousand of the latter were lost during the late war with the Arabs. The Pacha of Alexandria received very bad news from his army at the time I was at Alexandria: the Arabs took a great number of their camels, richly laden, and the plague was raging in the army of the Turks.

We went from Cairo to Damietta, and were well received by Peter Surure, an Arab, who is English Consul there. His father, whose successor he is, died a few months before. He is twenty years old; his chancellor, born in Smyrna, writes and speaks Italian. The Consul is rich and thought clever; but the French Consul, M. Facker, an Arab, about forty-two years old, is not only very rich, but very well informed, and

has such an influence over the Bey of Damietta (who was a common soldier, and is cruel, but brave), that he decides many difficult cases for the Bey. His chancellor was secretary to Lord Elgin at Constantinople, an Italian, who is well informed.

We went from Damietta to Jaffa, where we stayed at M. Damiani's, the English Consul, a Levantine, of very little education, no information, and who fears in such a degree the Bey, that he runs into the house when he is in the neighbourhood. He lives miserably, though he is a man of property. He was a long time at Marseilles, and speaks French well. He was very desirous that an English ship or armed vessel should come there, because the Bey, who is a cruel and savage man, and who appears to be on bad terms with the Grand Signor, would not respect the firman of Constantinople. He forced the Consul to pay taxes as a common Christian, without respecting his official situation.

This port is much frequented by French and European ships, bringing pilgrims thither to disembark, to go to Jerusalem. The natives are in open revolt in that neighbourhood against the Bey, refusing to pay the taxes; and in August, 1814, the Bey was besieging several villages: the Turks lost many men, and the Bey was much in want of soldiers.

From thence we went to Jerusalem, through El Rama. I found that part of the country without order or regulations. The Bedouin Arabs, and those living in villages, carrying on a kind of warfare against the Turks, we were stopped by a picquet of Arabs, well armed and mounted. When they were informed by our guide that we were travellers and Milordi, the name they give to all Englishmen, they let us proceed. The Arab we had as a guide told our interpreter that they were very friendly when they were informed the travellers were English.

Jerusalem is in a shocking state, the houses going to ruin; the Christians barbarously treated by the Bey, who is not on

terms with the Grand Signor, and so disliked by his own soldiers and the Turks that he never goes out of the house without a large escort, and never dares venture to go out of the city, fearing to be taken by some partisans of the Grand Signor. He extorts very great sums from the Convents and Christian inhabitants, and treats them very barbarously. We met him in the street, and he behaved very politely, inviting us to come to his house. The Arabs in the Jerusalem mountains, formerly very cruel, appear now very friendly. We met a great many, and only two treated us with contempt.

We went back to Jaffa, and from thence to Acre, and stayed with the English Consul, M. Malagamba, born in Genoa, who is polite and naturally clever, though far from a well educated man. The French Consul there, M. Villavert, is not a dangerous man, as his greatest knowledge consists in hunting, but he has a good chancellor, who is an Italian. M. Malagamba has no chancellor, but he appears to be on good terms with the Pacha, whose Prime Minister is a Jew, and who entirely rules the Pacha. The English are here much esteemed by the inhabitants. A good understanding exists between the Pacha and the Grand Signor. Sir Sidney Smith is well known here and much feared.

We went to Sidon, where there is no English Consul, and stayed at the house of the French Vice-Consul, M. Taitbout, an officer of the army left there by Napoleon, who does what he pleases with the Bey, and has even planted four cannon in front of his house, which no Christian ever did before in those countries. Lady Hester Stanhope, who was then in the mountains of the Druses, has been at Sidon, and the Consul informed me he had had the honour of escorting her several times a distance out of the town. The Turks call Lady Stanhope Princess, and think her a daughter of his Majesty. We had not the pleasure of seeing her, as the plague raged in the neighbourhood through where we should have been obliged

to pass. We saw her major-domo, and were informed that she was unwell, but in a fair way of recovery.

We went from Sidon to the island of Cyprus, and were well received by the English Consul, who is a rich Greek of that island, not without information, though the inhabitants did not speak highly of his general abilities: he is not much respected by the Bey, as the Turks always treat the Greeks with the utmost contempt. The port is much frequented by English ships. The inhabitants are rather inclined towards the French, and the English not so much liked as in Egypt, owing to the French Consul, M. Regnaud, an engineer officer left there by Napoleon, who not only is a very well informed man, but a complete master of intrigue à la Française. He has absolute influence over the Bey and all the public officers, whom he forced to interdict, during the war, the exportation of grain to Malta, and those who did export by contraband were obliged to pay him a fee that he might shut his eyes, or give him a share in the business. The only English merchant there, Mr. Howel, from London, ships the most corn to Malta.

Consuls in the Levant ought not to be Greeks, and they will be always more respected by the Turks. If an English armed vessel was to appear in the Levant occasionally, it would assist the Consuls very much in having an influence over the Beys. Colonel Cook died lately at Port Larnica, in Cyprus, and left many valuable trunks with the English Consul. His friends in England would do well to claim them. I was in his rooms, and the Consul showed me many trunks belonging to the Colonel.

We went to the island of Rhodes. I visited the French Consul, M. Magallon, a very old, respectable Frenchman, who received me very kindly. Though the port is often frequented by English ships, there is no English Consul there. The inhabitants are friendly to the English. The French Consul told me that Lady Hester Stanhope was shipwrecked there two years ago, and he gave her every assistance to facili

tate her return to Egypt, and that she lost there several valuable writings. The Beys in Cyprus and in this island are on good terms with the Grand Signor.

At Cerigo, Captain Taylor, Governor of the island, gave us a letter to the Bey of the Mainotes, in the bay of Coron, famous robbers, who are independent of the Turks, with whom he keeps up a friendly intercourse, as they permit his letters and despatches to go through their territory by land to Parga, from whence they are sent to Corfu. They received us very politely. It appeared that they flattered themselves that they should be able to form a free Republic, and to receive arms and ammunition from England, which, the Bey said, was all he wanted to defend his territory against his enemies. Their cities are fortified by Nature; as they are built on very high mountains, to attack them by land, it is necessary to pass immense defiles of mountains; and by sea they can defend themselves from the mountains with a few field-pieces, and they are very expert in firing muskets and pistols.

We

We passed Mistra, Tripolizza, Corinth, and Athens. saw the English Consul at the latter city, a Greek, who is little respected by the Turks. English travellers complained that he pays no attention to them, and that they could obtain from him very little or no assistance. His name is M. Logotetti. The French Consul, M. Fauvel, a very clever Frenchman, is on good terms with the Bey. We found at Patras the English Consul, M. Stranie, born in Zante. He is very well informed, and much esteemed by the Bey and inhabitants, and he has been of great service to Governor Campbell, in finding out malefactors that come over from Zante.

The Turks in the Morea and Greece are very friendly to the English and very attentive to the wants of travellers. The Government has no discipline, and the Beys do what they please, without listening much to the orders from Constantinople. Ali Bey affects to be friendly to the English, but I believe he is little trustworthy: they said he has about thirty