very nearly so; the watch was pulled out, and when we had expressed our surprise that it should be so much later than we had imagined, we ventured to ask of our white-bearded visitor if it would not be better that he should set out in advance, as he had himself so very prudently suggested. Upon this the Shekh rose, to our great delight, and after paying his adieus with the air of a man who was wholly occupied with other reflections, he took the Doctor aside, and with a significant half-smile upon his countenance, begged he would furnish him with the exhilarating medicine which he had promised him on a former occasion. The secret was disclosed which had so baffled our penetration; for the Dúbbah confessed that as he was going home, from which he had been some time absent, he was particularly desirous of assuming an animated and youthful appearance in the presence of his young and handsome wife, who, he was fearful, he said, had already began to fancy him a little too old for her. He described this girl, to whom he had lately been married, as uncommonly pretty and only sixteen years of age; and concluded by saying he did not despair, Imsh Allah (please God), that with the Doctor's assistance, he might yet contrive to make himself agreeable to her! Our chagrin was now succeeded by a violent fit of laughter, which we freely indulged in at the old Shekh's expense, and which he bore very goodnaturedly: the Doctor was not long in preparing the draught; and the Dúbbah had no sooner deposited it in his old leathern pouch, as safely as a glass phial could conveniently be put up with flints and steel, musket balls, old nails and horseshoes, which were usually observed to be assembled there, than he

mounted the gallant mare who had so well conducted herself the night before, and brandishing his stirrups, rode off at full gallop, well pleased with the result of his long-winded visit, and anticipating all the wonderful effects of the cordial which the Doctor had so considerately bestowed upon him.

CHAPTER VIII.

Leave Nehim-Arrive at Boosaida-Shekh Hamed Shakshak-Return of Shekh MahommedRevival of the Report above mentioned-Motive for renewing it-Discharge our Mesurata Camel-drivers-Treaty with the Dúbbah for others-Interested Conduct of Shekh Mahommed -Commencement of another Salt-Lake at Sharfa-Easy mode of shifting Quarters practised by the Arabs-Their manner of travelling-Termination of the Lake-Arrive at SheggaRemains of Forts observed there-Other Remains in its Neighbourhood-Abundant Pasturage at Shegga-Fortress of Bengerwàd-Peculiarities of its Position-Bengerwad considered as the Castle of Euphrantas-Objections to this Supposition-Reasons in favour of it-Leave Wady Shegga-Cross a Tract of Red Sand-Spacious Bay at Ras Howeijah-Good Anchorage probably found there-Remains of an ancient Town near Ras Howeijah considered as those of Charax-Trade of Charax alluded to, as mentioned by Strabo-Further Reasons for placing the Tower of Euphrantas at Bengerwàd-Allusion to the Barter of Silphium at Charax-Emendation of Strabo's Text proposed by Signor Della Cella-Arrive at Hudia— Alleged Origin of this Name as applied to the Place in question-Hudia lately infested by a formidable Band of Robbers-Precautions of our Arab Escort to prevent any Attack— Rigorous Measures of Mahommed Bey apparently very necessary-Remarkable Hill of Gypsum at Hudia-Celebration of Christmas-day by our Party at Hudia-Fortress at Mahirīga-Arrival of a Party of Pilgrims from the Westward-Disturbance at LinoofApparent Causes of it-Ill-behaviour of the Dúbbah-His sudden change of Conduct, and artful Manoeuvres-Remarks on Arab Character-Satisfactory Termination of the Disturbance-Arrival at Mukhtar, the Boundary of the Districts of Syrt and Barka.

ON quitting Nehim we proceeded along the edge of a marsh which commences there, extending itself for several miles parallel with the beach, from which it is separated by sand-hills, and in the evening arrived at Boosaida. The whole of this tract (from Nehim to Boosaida) is very flat and uninteresting, and we could perceive no remains there of any kind. At Boosaida may be observed the ground

plans of small walls, apparently those of dwelling-houses, between where our tents the spot were pitched and the sea; the remains are however so few and inconsiderable, and so much mixed with stones belonging to the soil, as to be wholly without any interest.

The country at Boosaida is somewhat hilly, and overrun with grass and brushwood, a small part only being planted with barley. The few Bedouins who inhabit it appear to have no other occupation than that of tending their camels, sheep, and goats; and the women are chiefly occupied in curing skins for containing water and manteca, which is done by means of certain roots found in great quantities in the neighbourhood. The Shekh, or principal man of the place, was named Hamed Shakshak, who, in order to ensure our being well supplied, for we ought not to suspect so obliging a personage of any less praiseworthy motive, took care to usurp the sole right and privilege of furnishing us himself with whatever we wished to purchase; never forgetting, however, in the excess of his zeal, to put a most unconscionable price upon everything. So careful had this considerate person been in his manœuvres, that we could not get even a draught of milk from the women in other tents, without promising to keep it secret from Hamed Shakshak. As we had no wish to embroil the honest inhabitants with their Shekh, we thought it better to take no notice of this proceeding, especially as the time we had to remain at Boosaida was short, and our demands were not likely to be very great.

It was here that our agreement with the Mesurata camel-drivers finished; and the day after our arrival we were rejoined by our friend

the Dúbbah, who had left us, as before stated, to make arrangements for furnishing us with others. He entered our tent with three large ostrich eggs wrapped up very carefully in the folds of his baracan, (for this garment may be considered as a general envelope for everything which an Arab thinks worthy of a cover,) and having unfolded them, one by one, laid them down very solemnly and ceremoniously, and with the greatest air of consequence imaginable, on the mat upon which we were sitting. All this was of course intended to enhance the value of the present, and we received it accordingly with all due acknowledgments. The prelude being over, Shekh Mahommed assumed a very mysterious air, and drew a little closer towards us; then lowering his voice, which was not usually one of the most gentle, he began to inform us (looking occasionally round the tent, as if he feared to be overheard from without) that a large troop of marauding Arabs were then at Kebrit, having recently arrived there from the neighbourhood of Cairo, and that they were lying in wait for our party. There could be no doubt, he added, of the truth of this statement, for one of his own sons had just arrived from Cairo himself! On our asking him whether this son had actually seen the Arabs in question, he replied that, as yet, no person had seen them, but that the prints of horses' feet, to the number of sixty, had been observed about the wells near Kebrīt, and that there could be no doubt whatever of the sinister intentions of the party. "But fear nothing," continued the Shekh, with an air of greater importance, "while the Dúbbah is your friend and conductor; for I will myself," said he, “ "go on in advance, and if I find the tracks of hostile horses about the wells,