CHAPTER IV.

Arrival at Lebida-Remarks on its position and resources as compared with those of Tripoly -Short account of the city and its remains-Allusion to the African tribe Levatæ (or Levata) by Procopius-The same tribe mentioned by Leo Africanus-Suggestions of Major Rennell on the resemblance between the terms Levata and Lybia-Former position of this tribe near the coast confirmed by Procopius-Remarks on the term Libya-Visit from the Shekh of Lebida-Violent storm at that place retards the advance of the party-Intrusion upon the premises of a celebrated Marábüt-Dangerous consequences of this intrusion predicted by our escort-Departure from Lebida-Remains of the aqueduct, and of the causeway mentioned by Strabo-Arrive at the River Cinyphus, now Wad'el Kháhan-Remarks on the river and the morass in its immediate neighbourhood-Observations on the faulty position of the Cinyphus in the maps of Cellarius-This position probably suggested by some remarks of Pliny, Ptolemy, and Mela-Extreme fertility of the region of the Cinyphus-Remarks on this district, and that of Byzacium-Suggestions of Signor Della Cella with respect to themPresent appearance of the region of the Cinyphus consistent with the description of Herodotus-Neglected condition of the district under the Arabs-Account of Lebida and its remains by Captain Smyth.

On the following morning we continued our journey to Lebida, the weather being still very bad. The road from Sélem to Lebida leads close along the foot of Mergip-hill, on the summit of which but are the ruins of a tower of considerable height, which may be seen from a great distance: at the foot of the hill are the remains of several tombs, but none of those which we saw appeared to be in good style.

On emerging from the valley of Sélem a fertile tract of high ground presents itself, which lies between the valley and Lebida ;

clusters of olive-trees are scattered over its surface, and contribute with the green turf on which they are planted to give it a very pleasing appearance. From the summit of this appears the whole plain of Lebida, stretching down, in a gentle slope, from the high ground to the sea; and a more beautiful scene can scarcely be witnessed than that which is presented by this fine tract of country. Thick groves of olive and date-trees are seen rising above the villages which are scattered over its surface; and the intermediate spaces are either covered with the most luxuriant turf, or rich with abundant crops of grain.

It must always afford matter for surprise to those who are acquainted with this beautiful and highly-productive country, how Tripoly could ever have been selected, in preference to Lebida, as the metropolis of the regency. Placed in the midst of sand, on the borders of an extensive desert, and situated almost at the extremity of the country in which it stands, Tripoly appears to enjoy scarcely any particular local advantage beyond the possession of its port; while Lebida seems to unite in one beautiful spot all the advantages of plenty, convenience, and security. It is probable that the harbour and strong walls of Tripoly were the principal causes of its adoption as the capital; and the sums of money which would be necessary to rebuild and fortify Lebida, might have been considered as more than equivalent to its local recommendations, by a people who seldom look beyond the present.

But Lebida, once occupied, would be a much stronger post than Tripoly could ever be made; and the good sense of the

ancients was conspicuously manifested in its selection as a principal

town.

The city of Leptis Magna appears to have been comprehended within little more than a square half mile of ground. It was situated close to the sea, on the banks of a ravine now called Wady Lebda, which might probably in the rainy season have assumed the appearance of a river. When we passed through the place it was, however, nothing more than a small stream, although too deep in some parts to be easily forded; and it is probably dry, or nearly so, in the summer. The inadequacy of this supply to the consumption of the city may be inferred from the remains of an

Aquedu aqueduct communicating with the Cinyphus, still existing, in unconnected portions, in the space between the town and that river. At the back of the town are several large mounds of earth, thrown up in the form of banks; which are supposed to have been raised for the purpose of turning off. the water which might occasionally have threatened it from the hills, and which the slope of the ground from the hills to the sea may possibly have rendered very necessary The quantity of alluvial soil brought down the Wady above mentioned by the winter torrents, have, together with the accumulation of sand from the beach, nearly effaced all traces of the port and cothon of Leptis Magna, which does not indeed appear to have been at any time very capacious. The actual remains of the city are still

*

* This is the opinion of Captain Smyth, who examined the remains of Leptis Magna with attention (in the year 1817); who has obligingly favoured us with the plans and account of it which are given at the end of the chapter.

sufficient to be somewhat imposing; but they are for the most part so deeply buried under the sand which ten centuries of neglect have allowed to accumulate about them, that plans of them could not be obtained without very extensive excavations. The style of the buildings is universally Roman; and they are more remarkable for the regularity and solidity of their construction, than for any great appearance of good taste employed in their embellishment.

A great part of the city has been constructed with brick; and the material which has been used in the instances here alluded to maintains remarkably well the high character which Roman brick has so deservedly acquired. The remains of the stadium are perhaps the most interesting, in speaking of the buildings which have been constructed with stone; they have been partially excavated by Captain Smyth, (to whose account we refer the reader) together with some other buildings; but the task of clearing them entirely would be too Herculean for limited means, and the same may be observed with respect to other parts of Leptis Magna in general.

For our own part, however much we might have been inclined to remain some time at Lebida, the necessity of our immediate advance precluded the possibility of doing so; for the approach of the rainy season made it absolutely necessary that we should cross the low grounds of the Syrtis without delay: and it must be remembered that the coast-line of the Syrtis and Cyrenaica was the principal object of the Expedition.

Leptis Magna was built at an early period by the Phoenicians, and was ranked, after Carthage and Utica, as the first of their maritime

cities. After the destruction of Carthage it flourished under the government of the Romans, and was remarkable, as we are informed by Sallust, for its fidelity and obedience *.

After the occupation of Northern Africa by the Vandals, the walls and fortifications of Leptis appear to have been dismantled or destroyed: they were probably afterwards restored under Justinian, when the city became the residence of the Prefect Sergius; and we find them, on the authority of Leo Africanus, to have been finally demolished by the Saracens +.

From that time the city appears to have been wholly abandoned; and its remains were employed in the construction of Modern Tripoly, as Leo has also informed us.

During the Prefecture of Sergius, who presided over the district of Tripolis §, Leptis Magna was attacked by a neighbouring African tribe; and Sergius himself, after some previous successes, was reduced

* Nam Leptitani jam inde a principio belli Jugurthini ad Bestiam Consulem et postea Romam miserant, amicitiam, societatemque rogatum. Dein, ubi ea impetrata fuere semper boni, fidelesque mansere ; et cuncta a Bestia, Albino, Metelloque imperata gnavitur fecerant.-(Bell. Jugurth. § 77.)

At Gizerichus alia moliri non desiit. Nam, præter Carthaginem, Africæ urbes nudavit omnes.. -(Procop. Hist. Vandal. à Grotio, Lib. 1. p. 17.

Questa città (Leptis M.) fu edificata da Romani con mura alte di pietre grosse: la quale fu due volte rovinata da Macomettani, e delle sue pietre e colonne fu edificata Tripoli.-(5ta. parte, p. 72.)

Leo here alludes to the restoration of the city, and not to its first erection by the Phoenicians.

§ Bacchi (Solomonis frater erat) filios duos regendis Africæ partibus misit Imperator; Pentapoli Cyrum, natu majorem, Tripoli Sergium.-(Procopius, Hist. Vandal, Lib. 2. p. 119.)