some uninteresting ruins, which from the situation were probably those of Mespe. Thence we crossed the Messellata hills, and near the centre of one of the ramifications observed three slight eminences, which I am inclined to think must have been the Tumuli of the Graces of ancient geographers, though, but for the coincidence of the number, I should scarcely have remarked them. They are about 340 feet in height, and nearly five miles from the coast, thus differing in distance from the ancient account of 200 stadia; but as the Cinyphus actually rises here, the early manuscripts may have suffered from bad copyists.

The Cinyphus is now called the Wadie Khàhan, or weak river, in allusion to its sluggish course in summer, though it is still, to a little distance inland, a considerable stream, for this part of the world. Its shrubby banks render the lower part of it extremely picturesque, while both they and the sedgy marshes it has formed towards Tabia point abound with game of all descriptions. Near the high road from Sahal to Zeliten, the river contracts at once: here stood an bridgancient bridge, of which vestiges remain; and adjacent is a tolerable

subterraneous aqueduct, running in the direction of Leptis, with a ventilating aperture, at intervals of about forty yards.

CHAPTER V.

Arrival at Zeliten-Description of the Village and District of that name-Harbour of ZelitenRemains in its neighbourhood probably those of the Cisternæ Oppidum of Ptolemy-Tomb of the Marábūt Sidy Abd el Salám-Respect shewn to it by our party in passing before itGeneral appearance of these Structures-Arab credulity and superstition-Leave ZelitenRemains between it and Selin-Arrive at Selin, the Orir, apparently, of Signor Della Cella -Proceed to Zoúia-Ports called by the Arabs Mersa Gusser and Mersa Zoraig-Arrive at Mesurata, the Western Boundary of the Greater Syrtis-Description of the Town and District of Mesurata-Account of them by Leo Africanus-Visit from the Shekh of MesurataSplendid Costume and Equipage of the Shekh compared with that of our Bedouin Guide, Shekh Mahommed el Dúbbah-Allusion to the report mentioned at the end of the Third Chapter-Great demand for Medicine at Mesurata-Considerate conduct of Mr. CampbellSpeedy success of his treatment in many difficult cases-Miraculous cure of a young Arab woman by an itinerant Sherif and Marábūt-Detention of the party at Mesurata-Observations on Cape Mesurata, considered as the Cephalas Promontorium of Strabo-Remarks of Signor Della Cella on this subject-Alterations proposed by that gentleman in the punctuation of a passage in Strabo descriptive of the Promontory-Actual appearance of the Promontory sufficiently consistent with the account of Strabo-Well-founded Remarks of Signor Della Cella on the extension of the Gharian Chain, &c.-Extensive View from the Sand-hills at the back of Mesurata-Singular contrast presented by the view over the dreary wastes of the Syrtis compared with that over the plain of Mesurata-Hot wind, and swarm of locusts accompanying it—Alarm of the Arabs of Mesurata-Precautions adopted by them on the occasion-Destructive consequences (mentioned by Shaw) resulting from the visit of a flight of Locusts which he witnessed-Remarks of Pliny on the same subject—Arrival of the Camels, and departure from Mesurata.

On our arrival at Zeliten, we found barley and oil in abundance, and much cheaper than in the neighbourhood of Tripoly; we availed ourselves, accordingly, of the favourable state of the market, to replenish our supply of these articles with the produce of the district of Cinyps. Herodotus thought it necessary to observe, in describing the fortu

* M

nate region here alluded to, that "it rained in this part of Libya*”. and we had also, in this instance, full reason to acknowledge the accuracy of the father of history: for our stock of provisions was so much damaged by the rain which had attended our passage through the country, that we found it necessary to expose it a second time to the sun, before we ventured to secure it more effectually in the baskets.

The village of Zelīten contains from three to five hundred souls (as Shekh Benzahir, who presides there, informed us); and we were indebted to him, besides, for the honour of a visit, and a present (no less valuable) of some excellent Fezzan dates, which are thought to be superior to those of the country. The district of Zelīten, he further informed us, which extends from Wad'el Kháhan to Selin, contains no less than fifteen villages and ten thousand inhabitants. The houses are built with mud and rough stones, the mud, on most occasions, preponderating, as it generally does in Arab buildings; the roofs are formed of mats and the branches of the palm-tree, on which is laid a quantity of earth. The villages of Igsaiba, Fehtir, Irgīg, and Snūd, all smaller than Zelīten, but built after the same fashion, may be said to be appendages to that place. Each of these villages, as well as Zelīten itself, is surrounded by plantations of date-trees and olives, and presents a tolerable show of cultivation. The produce is more than the inhabitants consume, and the overplus, together with straw mats and earthern jars, manufactured in the place, are disposed of to Bedouin traders, or carried

* Υεται γας δηταυτα της A Cuns.

to other markets for sale. There are two springs of very good water near Zelīten, which supply a small pond; and in this place the ladies of the place are accustomed to wash and cleanse their wool, their clothes, and, occasionally, themselves, before they fill their jars for home consumption.

The port called Mersa Zelīten is an insignificant cove, that would scarcely afford shelter to a boat. It is formed by a few rocks above water; may be about one hundred yards across, and appears to have

Here also are two springs

no more than five or six feet water in it.
of good water, which would afford a constant supply, if the Arabs
would take the trouble of excavating a cistern, and of protecting it
from the surf. To the N.E. of the Mersa, at the distance of from
half a mile to three-quarters of a mile off shore, the sea broke over
sunken rocks: the cliffs are of sand-stone, and about thirty feet in
height.

The many ruins which exist in the vicinity of Zelīten, and the Ruins at it. frequent appearance of building-stones, and shafts of marble columns, protruding through the mud walls of the village, contribute decidedly to point it out as an ancient site, and it was probably the Cisternæ or Cinsternæ Oppidum of Ptolemy; which is the first town mentioned by this geographer after the Tgingav angov―the Cephalas Promontorium of Strabo-in the tract of country between that point and the Cinyphus.

Among the sand hills which almost surround the village, we found several imperfect ground plans; and near the beach is the tomb of a Marábūt, supported by marble columns, which however are of very

Marble cofumma

Pottery & Glass

Avale Bathro

trifling dimensions: there also we noticed several fragments of marble columns, and a considerable quantity of pottery and glass. Among the sand hills are likewise some remains of Arab baths, built of stone and cement; and about them are scattered the ruins of walls and buildings, as though the village had once been there, but having been deserted was gradually covered with sand.

Our tents at Zeliten were pitched upon the sand hills close to the tomb of a celebrated Marábūt, called Sidy Abd el Salám, much respected by all the Mahometan population*. The Arabs of our escort were particularly desirous that we should show some marks of attention to the remains of this holy personage, by passing his tomb at a slow and solemn pace, and at a respectful distance; and though it may be imagined we had no great faith in the sanctity of this venerated Shekh, and as little in the miracles which were attributed to him, we complied with their pious request. The tombs of such Marabuts as have acquired any tolerable celebrity, present a singular appearance, in the motley collection of votive offerings and deposits which are displayed both within and without the holy structures; and bundles of wood and long grass, ploughs, mats, jars, and shreds of old garments, are seen mingled with rusty firelocks and pistols,

* The saint and his tomb are thus mentioned by Captain Lyon :

“This place (Zelīten) is particularly blessed in possessing the remains of a great Marábūt, who is buried in a really handsome mosque, ornamented with minarets and neat cupolas, and whitewashed all over. His descendants are much respected, and are called Weled el Sheikh, sons of the elder; they think themselves authorized to be the most impudent, begging set of people in the whole regency of Tripoly." (P. 335.)