mon occurrence; and that even many of these poor wretches, becoming debtors to the government for some trifling assistance, or loan of money during the term of their imprisonment, were frequently obliged, upon failure of payment, to renew their services, and pass the remainder of their life in all the misery of a galley slave. The distinguishing appellation of these amateurs was Buone voglie, whilst those confined for crimes were termed Forzatti.

THERE was a small hospital for the use of the slaves in general; and what will be thought a curious proof of inconsistency and toleration in the government, the Mussulmauns were permitted the free exercise of that religion for which they had been so unjustly deprived of liberty, and a mosque was built for the purpose.

GENOA has been usually distinguished by the appellation La superba; and no one who has examined the various beauties of its palaces, its churches, and its villas, can refuse confirming its claim to the title.

THE Strada Nuova and the Strada Balbi have never escaped the observations of those travellers who could appreciate architectural beauty or ornamental magnificence; the façades of the marble palaces belonging to the families of Doria, Durazzo, and

Balbi, and the sumptuous furniture with which the apartments are decorated, amply deserve the high encomiums they have received; and an idea of their riches can scarcely be more impressively conveyed than by the style of Monsieur Dupaty :"What glasses! what floors! what columns! what a quantity of gold, of lapis lazuli, of porphyry, of marble! The only proper name for all these wonders is, Magnificence."

THE church of the Annunciata, built by the two brothers Lomellini, is also a most beautiful structure, and richly ornamented: the pillars which support the roof are alternately of red and white marble of exquisite beauty. The cathedral of San Lorenzo will be admired as long as the massy square blocks of white and black marble, with which it is constructed, shall resist the ravages of time; and the Ponte Carignano will hold a place in the estimation of every architect, in spite of the disappointment which Smollet was doomed to experience.

IN the cathedral are preserved, amongst many others, certain relics, reported to be of St John the Baptist, held in great veneration; and here also is shown the famous emerald, forming a bowl with two small handles, the greatest diameter of which is about fifteen inches, and the height nearly five, pretended to have been used at the passover on the night previous to the crucifixion of our Saviour; and, according to some accounts, pre

sented to the Genoese by Baldwin King of Jerusalem, for their services against the Turks in the Holy Land.

MONSIEUR CONDAMINE, however, who appears convinced in his own mind that the treasure is merely blown glass, and asserts that he discovered air-bubbles in it, notwithstanding the caution which is used to prevent any stranger from approaching it, states, that the Genoese purchased it at the siege of Cesarea in Palestine, in the year 1101; and grounds his opinion upon that of William Archbishop of Tyre, who implies his doubts, as to its being an emerald, in a work he published more than four hundred years ago; in which he says, "At the siege of Cesarea this vessel became the property of the Genoese for a handsome sum of money, who fancied it to be an emerald; still shew it as such to travellers; and esteem it no less than a miracle." Monsieur Condamine adds, however, "It is ascertained upon record, that this bowl was pledged, by a public act of the senate, during the siege of the city in the year 1319, to Cardinal Luc de Fiesque for a sum equal to the value of twelve hundred marcs of gold, and redeemed twelve years afterwards;" which is a convincing proof of its intrinsic value not having been at that time doubted or suspected.

THE suburbs, distinguished by the name San Pietro d'Arena, are most agreeably adorned with palaces and villas, contain

ing an infinite variety of statues, paintings, fountains, and every rural embellishment; nor can fancy paint to itself a more interesting landscape.

HERE I first saw played the Italian game of pallone, which in some respects is similar to tennis. A ball of leather, filled with air, and equal in size to a man's head, is propelled backwards and forwards by means of a wooden instrument fixed upon the arm of the striker, called bracciale. At a little distance it resembles a muff, but is covered with short wooden diamond-shaped points. The hand and arm being introduced into it, the player, by grasping a peg placed for the purpose across the internal part of the instrument, secures it firmly in its situation, and uses it with a dexterity truly admirable.

THE parties engaged generally consist of twelve, six on each side; and the object is to drive the ball into the adversaries ground, or as far distant from the adversaries themselves as possible.

I HAD the pleasure of being invited to many conversazzione during my stay; and in all, experienced the same uniform politeness, however there might be occasionally an ostentatious display of wealth, or an evident desire to fix the attention upon the importance of nobility.

Ir did not escape me, that the less exposed apartments of the palaces but ill corresponded with the dazzling elegance of the saloons; nor that, of the multitude of servants, some were less belaced than others: but as I was not subject to the irritating paroxysms of an asthma like Dr Smollet, and set out with a disposition more inclined to enjoy than to condemn, I found the whole sufficiently correct to satisfy even a refined taste, and, at all events, to entitle the proprietors to my grateful acknowledgments for their attentions.

SEDAN chairs are much more frequently used than any other conveyance in Genoa, on account of the narrowness as well as sloping position of the greater part of the streets.-A mode of dress, which may be evidently traced to the former influence of Spanish manners and customs, still very generally prevails.

TITLES are extremely common, and never omitted in conversation; but there is something rather whimsical in that by which physicians are distinguished; and I was not a little surprised, the first time I heard an English gentleman of the medical profession, who had been long established at Genoa, announced as Signor il Magnifico.

THIS gentleman experienced some difficulty in obtaining permission to practise there, on account of the unfortunate pronun

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