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the power of Bonaparte, these chronicles were almost
exclusively occupied with his deeds, and with the triumphs
Portraits of his relatives adorn
of his grande armée.
every number to the exclusion of most others.

At the restoration of the Bourbons, however, the editor
-once more installed at Gotha-took courage, and ven-
tured a portrait of the prince-regent of England; but it
was not till after the battle of Waterloo, and the total
overthrow of his editor-in-chief, that he dared to men-
tion the previous victories of the Allies, which he at last
acknowledged very handsomely in a historical résumé.

From that time the Almanach de Gotha has rapidly
augmented in bulk, but in a far less proportion than it
has increased in utility; and it may now be regarded as
the most complete register of the kind in existence.

cause.

ARGUMENTUM AD FEMINAM.

And, young ladies, permit me to address a few words to
you let me appeal to you, and invoke your assistance in
this holy cause. Your influence with the ruder sex is con-
fessedly great, and it ought to be so. Oh, do exert that
influence for good! Let each of you this night become,
as it were, a Father Chiniquy or a Father Matthew for the
Administer the pledge ere you part with your
escort this night; give the youth of your choice your
ultimatum, that he must either resign you or his bottle.
(Cheers.) He dares not refuse you; and if he did, he must
be a dolt and a dotard, and not worth picking out of the
gutter. (Cheers.) What!-prefer a grog-bottle to a pretty
maid? Monstrous! Impossible! Young ladies, let me
ask you, would you permit the perfume of your ambrosial
lips to be mingled and contaminated with the odious
fumes of the taproom? (Cheers.) Would you actually
suffer your dear delicate cheeks (don't blush, I did not
say lips) to be touched by lips which left their last im-
Out upon the thought: I
pression on the grog-glass?
am sure you would not. Oh, then, I beseech you, if any
of you here have-and I doubt not there are many of those
in your company to-night in whom you feel more than a
common interest-urge them to renounce tippling; pledge
them to teetotalism, ere you pledge yourselves to them.
It is your only safeguard against the dire calamity of
becoming that worst of wretches, the drunkard's wife.-
Speech at a Rechabite Celebration in Cooksville, American.

WASHING LIQUOR.

man's life, commencing at the same age, for L.95.
many working-men are there who, to the great benefit of
their physical health, might give up these indulgences, and
secure the great benefits we have indicated for their fami-
throw up a barricade against the future want and misery
lies? Is it not worthy of a great effort on their part to
that may otherwise overwhelm them? For it is an appal-
ling fact, that the death of every thousand heads of fami-
lies leaves at least four thousand women and children in
poverty, unless some such provision as that we are now
pointing out has been previously secured.-Newspaper
paragraph.

TO-DAY.

LET dotards grieve for childhood's days,
And only those look back

Whose wasted wealth or shattered health
Betrays a shameless track:

I cannot join in mourning time
For ever passed away-

For whilst I look on Nature's book
I'm thankful for to-day!

The trees are still as fresh and green
As ever branches were,

And still, in primal vigour seen,

They wave their arms in air;
The rivers sing the self-same song
That they have sung for aye,
Whose burden, as they glide along,
Is, God is here to-day!'
There's not a bird upon the bough,
Or leaf upon the tree,

But in the summer twilight now

As sweetly sings to me:

The bleakest wind that winter blows
Can chase disease away,

And shower blessings in the snows

That hide the earth to-day.

And everywhere a thousand gifts
Invite us to rejoice-

To grieve no more the days of yore,
But raise a thankful voice:

That tell us, though the world were fair
In years removed for aye,

The earth and sky, and sea and air,
As lovely are to-day.

Then tell me not that childhood's days
Alone are fraught with joy-
That manhood's fancy cannot raise
The structures of the boy :
The childish mind is lost in dreams
Of pictures far away,
But man beholds majestic themes
In wonders of to-day.

Oh ye whose eyes upbraiding rise,
Pronouncing fate unjust-

Who walk the earth with cherished hopes
Low trailing in the dust-
Discard a false unmanly thrall,

A correspondent, who calls himself the Washerwoman's
Friend,' says "There is now washing liquor sold in Shef-
field at the most extortionate price, beautifully labelled;'
but for the benefit of washerwomen, who are generally the
really deserving poor, we will impart the wonderful secret,
which has been obtained from head-quarters; namely, Mr
Twelvetrees:-1 lb. of soda, lb. of lime, and lb. of soap.
The soda and soap are boiled together, and the lime alone,
in two quarts of water; and then, after being boiled, are
used as required. This recipe can be as well manufac-
tured by a poor washerwoman as by a scientific chemist.-
Liverpool Standard. [Our lady readers will thank us for the
following still more distinct recipe:-Dissolve lb. of lime
in boiling water, straining twice through a flannel bag;
dissolve separately lb. of brown soap and lb. of soda-
boil the three together. Put 6 gallons of water in boiler,
and, when boiling, add the mixture. The linens, which
must have been steeped in cold water for twelve hours,
are wrung out, any stains rubbed with soap, and put into
the boiler, where they must boil for thirty-five minutes.
They are then drawn (the liquor being preserved, as it can
be used three times), placed in a tub, and clear boiling
water poured over them. Rub them out, rinse them well
in cold water, and they are ready for drying. By this
process two-thirds of the ordinary labour of washing is
saved; bleaching is dispensed with entirely; the clothes INSTRUCTIVE AND ENTERTAINING LIBRARY.
are much clearer, and are less worn than by the ordinary
mode of washing, and the mixture in noway damages
the fabric. Ere long, that fruitful source of annoyance
and discomfort, 'the washing day,' will, by the use of
this mixture, come, we are assured, to be reckoned among
the things that were.]-Greenock Advertiser.

LIFE-ASSURANCE.

A glass of beer a day is equivalent to L.2, 5s. a year, or
sufficient to insure a man's life, commencing at twenty, for
L.130 at death. Two ounces of tobacco a week are equal to
an expenditure of L.1, 10s. a year, or sufficient to insure a

Nor own so weak a sway,

But hope in Him who gave you all,
And thank Him for to-day!

CHAMBERS'S

CHARLES WILTON.

To this series of BOOKS FOR THE PEOPLE has just been added,
STORIES OF THE IRISH PEASANTRY.

BY MRS S. C. HALL.

In Two Parts, price 1s. each; or in One Volume, cloth boards,
price 2s. 6d.

Published by W. & R. CHAMBERS, High Street, Edinburgh. Also
sold by D. CHAMBERS, 20 Argyle Street, Glasgow; W. S. ORR.
Amen Corner, London; and J. M'GLASHAN, 21 D'Olier Street,
Dublin.-Printed by W. & R. CHAMBERS, Edinburgh.

EDINBURGH

CONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS, EDITORS OF CHAMBERS'S INFORMATION FOR THE PEOPLE,' 'CHAMBERS'S EDUCATIONAL COURSE,' &c.

No. 315. NEW SERIES.

SATURDAY, JANUARY 12, 1850.

TRACINGS OF THE NORTH OF EUROPE.

BOATING IN THE ALTENFIORD.

PREPARATIONS for our boating excursion being at length completed, we set out at nine in the morning of the 31st July. We had a stout boat of considerable size, with three approved men, the chief of whom, Sörn by name, could speak a little English. A box of provisions had been arranged by our kind friend Mr Wilson, of the Kaafiord store. I carried various scientific instruments, and my young companion took his gun in the hope of a little ptarmigan-shooting. We had skins and other appliances to make the rear part of the boat comfortable; but I afterwards found that I had reckoned somewhat too lightly on the chances of the climate, though the deficiency was rectified by friends on the way. The weather was now again calm and extremely warm, insomuch that, during the middle of the day, I found other integument than my linen blouse quite unnecessary.

Once more, then, upon the fiord, and now for a longer excursion, for it was my design to explore the terraces of erosion throughout the fifty miles of straits and bays intervening between Kaafiord and Hammerfest. A little way past Oskarnaes, where new ground began to come under observation, I found the slate rocks overlaid with a crystalline limestone, which at one place dipped into the sea in a vertical cliff, enclosing masses of the slate. It was curious to observe all the included masses near the sea smoothed and scratched, while the including rock was rough, and worn away in consequence of weathering. In this place, where the Kaafiord valley may be said to open up into a wide space, these markings are as well impressed as in the higher and narrower parts, where one might expect the glacier to be more confined, and consequently more energetic. This spot, in short, appears merely as a part of a trough which had extended much farther seaward, with the same markings on its surface. One can scarcely, on seeing such things, resist the impression that the relative level of sea and land has not only at one time been much higher, but that at another it has been much lower, than at present, allowing ice to descend into hollows in the frame of the land far below the present sea-level; for, as is well known, ice cannot descend far into the ocean, but always, on meeting that element, floats away in masses upon its bosom.

Leaving the recesses of Storvig, Melsvig, and Talvig for subsequent examination, we moved directly on for the part of the fiord where the terraces of erosion commence. By a terrace of erosion, it will be remembered, is meant a horizontal cut in the forehead of the mountainous coast-a mechanical section made by the sea in the hill-face, and indicating, by its height above tide, the shift of relative level of sea and land which has

PRICE 1d.

taken place since it was formed. In most rocky coasts there is a beach formed, with a cliff rising more or less abruptly from it, and this beach would become a terrace of erosion if the land were to rise twenty feet or more out of the water. Such objects are not very common; but I had seen examples on the coasts during the late steamer voyage, and I was now about to visit some which may fairly be considered as amongst the most remarkable in the world.

The monotony of our day's voyage was only broken by a landing which we were tempted to make in a recess of the coast, where we observed a few huts, and expected to find population. It proved to be only a station where men live temporarily while drying their fish. We found frames erected, with horizontally - disposed poles, all covered over with split fish in the process of drying; but no human being appeared on the ground, either to protect this property or to encroach upon it: the huts were closed, and the grass growing up to the very doors; all was a gray solitude, only speaking of man as an occasional visitant. Leaving the boatmen to take their dinner on the beach, we advanced up the side of a high short valley which falls back into the country. We found a wild rude scene of mingled copse and morass, together with spots of such luxuriant herbage, that I wondered there was no small farmer making use of it for his flocks. It seemed a portion of the earth which had yet hardly fallen under the condition of property.

The coast on our right—that is, towards the eastconsisted of an alternation of deep recesses, bearing various names as fiords, and bold promontories. In the afternoon, after rowing upwards of twenty miles, we began to approach Komagfiord, where we designed to spend the night. The washed, shattered coast here presents remarkable disturbances of the slate strata, with curious interjections, veinings, and contortions. Many blocks appear, lying on the slate, of totally different kinds of rock, and therefore presumably brought from a distance. By and by terraces begin to appear, with many of these travelled blocks reposing on them. Such stones speak, and the tale which they tell is as truthful, perhaps more truthful, than most of those narrated in black and white.

At length, at an early hour of the evening, we turned into a comparatively small, but sheltered and almost land-locked recess, where we first see palings along the green hill-sides, indicating pastoral farming, and then a neat house seated a little way back from the shore, with a number of smaller buildings scattered near it, including one which advances as a wharf into the sea. That pretty red and yellow mansion, so riant with its clean dimity window-curtains, and a little garden in front, is the kiopman's house of Komagfiord. It has a small porch in the centre, with a wooden esplanade and

a short flight of steps descending on either hand. A
good-looking man, in the prime of life, leans over the
rail at the wharf to receive us as we land. We are
met by him with a few courteous words in English; we
present Mr Thomas's letter of recommendation for Mr
Buch, the kiopman, who presently appears, a bulkier
and older man, of remarkably open genial countenance,
reminding me much of Cowper's description, though
not exactly true as far as dress is concerned-

'An honest man, close-buttoned to the chin,
Broadcloth without, and a warm heart within.'

He meets us with welcome, and we are speedily con-
ducted, with our baggage, to the house, a few steps
from the shore, where we are at once introduced into a
clean parlour, adorned with family portraitures and some
of the favourite prints of Sweden and Norway, parti-
cularly the never-absent royal family. Mr Buch, how
ever, does not speak any language besides his own. He
only looks the welcome he feels. His wife presently ap-
pears, a pleasant-looking matron; likewise his daughter
and sole child, whom we by and by discover to be the
wife of the younger man. Two or three little children,
too, the offspring of the young couple, make their way
into the room to see those extraordinary beings the
English strangers. The younger man, Mr Fantrom,
knowing a good deal of English, we speedily, through
that channel, become acquainted with the whole of
this amiable family, from whom I was eventually to
receive a greater amount of kindness than it almost
ever was my lot to experience from strangers.
desired of course to be considered as travellers taking
advantage in all courtesy of the obligation under which
the kiopman lies to receive such persons into his house;
but it will be found that we could not induce our kind
hosts to regard us in that light. The family seemed
to be in very comfortable circumstances, and the union
in which the three generations lived together was beau-
tiful to contemplate. I shall not soon, I trust, forget
the kiopman's house of Komagfiord.

We

play a few airs, provided it should be agreeable to all present. This being cordially assented to, I proceeded to introduce the music of my native country to these simple-hearted Norwegians. The scenery and time seemed to give magic to what might otherwise perhaps have proved of very little interest; and finding my audience give unequivocal tokens of being pleased with my performance, I was induced to go on from one tune to another for fully an hour. It was curious to think of my audience hearing for the first time strains which are an inheritance of the heart to every Scottishman from his earliest sense-to myself, for instance, since three years old-and to reflect on some of our national favourites, as the Flowers of the Forest,' 'Loch Erroch Side,' and the Shepherd's Wife,' now floating over the unwonted ground of a Norwegian fiord. With each air, in general, the idea of some home friend, with whom it is a favourite, was associated. There was scarcely one which did not take my mind back to some scene endeared by domestic affection, or the love which, in common with every Scot, I cherish for the classic haunts of my native land. It was deeply interesting now to summon up all these associations in succession, in the presence of an alien family who could know nothing of them, and to whom it would have been in vain to explain them, but who, from that very incapability of sympathy, made them in the existing circumstances fall only the more touchingly and penetratingly into my own spirit.

Next morning rose bright and beautiful, and we were early astir to walk round the valley, the features of which, however, I shall describe afterwards. About eleven in the forenoon we left our kind hosts, with a promise to return to them in the course of a few days. Being here close to the commencement of the terraces of erosion, I was loath to defer any longer seeing them. I proposed, however, to go at once, if possible, to Hammerfest, the far extremity of our proposed course, and then to return at such stages as might be thought convenient. Varg Sund, into which we now turned, After the refreshment of tea-for we had taken a bounded by the mainland on the right, and the island of good lunch at sea-we went out to examine the neigh-Seiland on the left, is, in respect of its breadth and the bouring grounds, and soon ascertained that a terrace of detrital matter and blocks goes entirely round the little valley, at the height of about 64 feet above the sea. Walking along it round the angle which divides the fiord from the open sea in Varg Sund, we find it become a terrace of erosion on the rough coast there, with huge blocks everywhere encumbering its surface-blocks of foreign rock. Mr Fantrom obligingly went along with us over this ground, and seemed glad when I could employ him in holding the levelling staff for a few minutes. We soon found him a very sensible well-informed man, though geology and geodesy were new ideas to his mind. The latter part of the evening proved extremely beautiful, and we were tempted to take seats on the esplanade in front of the door, to enjoy the cool but still balmy air, a delightful refreshment after the heat of the day. The little fiord lay like glass below our feet, with a merchant sloop moored in the entrance; the rugged mountains beyond the Sound rose clear into the bright blue sky, where the light was yet scarcely dulled. Mr Buch sat down with his long pipe, emitting alternate puffs of smoke, and sentences addressed to his son-in-law and grandchildren. The bustle of Mrs Buch engaged in her household duties made the smallest possible stir within. All besides was as calm as nature before the birth of sound. Having nothing better to do, I proposed at this juncture to bring out my flute, and

scenery of its coasts, though scarcely in its roughness, much like the line of the Great Glen in Inverness-shire, where it is filled up with Loch Oich or Loch Lochy. We soon come to observe on the hill-faces at no great elevation two lines apparently parallel with each other, and with the sea-surface. They are equally conspicuous on rough protuberant mountains, and in softer and grassier recesses; but in the latter they are observed to be only indentations in the receding slopes, while in other places they are deep incisions in the cliffy rocks. About nine miles on from Komagfiord there is a peculiarly bold mountain-face projecting a little into the Sound, and bearing the name of Quænklubb. All along this rock the two lines are deeply marked. So are they in some parts of a recess opposite called Olderfiord. So far from dubious are these markings, that at Olderfiord we can quite well distinguish the two lines of Quænklubb, though the Sound is there not much less wide than the Firth of Forth at Granton, or about four English miles.

Landing at Olderfiord, I executed a measurement up the green slopes, much to the astonishment of a group of fishing Quæns who have harbourage there. The upper line was 155:47 feet above the tide-mark of the day. Two lower lines appeared on the green delta, one at 56, the other at 65 feet, there being, notwithstanding the slightness of the difference, a decided bank between

them. I then crossed to a similar recess called Saraby, close to Quænklubb, and landed on a beautiful beach of pebbles and shells, underneath a green pastoral slope, on which were several Lap huts. The two lines cross the green sloping ground, and go on at the same levels as deep seams in the rough mountain. I found the lower line formed in the latter situation by a mere shattering of the cliff, and a wearing of it out in slight hollows; but the upper one presented a broad ledge cut in the upturned slate strata, and backed by a tall vertical cliff. This ledge was in some places almost like a floor, being only rendered slightly unequal by the ridges of unusually hard strata starting up above the general level. At one place it was not less than fifty single paces broad-a most impressive illustration of the power of the sea, and of the long space of time during which this had been a shore.

hoped to renew our start next day with a favouring breeze. In returning, we landed at a place on the south side of the entrance to Leerisfiord, where the upper terrace was remarkably distinct. It proved to be 170.93 feet above the tide-mark of the day, being an addition of about 15 feet to the elevation at Olderfiord, a few miles to the north. This was a fact tending to the confirmation of M. Bravais's account; but at this time, notwithstanding the general conspicuousness of the lines, I suspected that their elevations changed at promontories and elsewhere, though sometimes with interplaitings, as if, in an assumedly equable uprise, winds and currents had possibly caused impressions to be made on one piece of coast presented in a certain direction, and not on another presented in a different direction. Thus I conceived there might still be horizontality in the several entire pieces of the lines, although Returning from a solitary ramble in the back country, these might rise like the steps of a stair from north to I came upon a Lap group, composed of a woman en-south. It was already becoming evident that many gaged in cow-milking, her daughter of perhaps twelve measurements would be necessary to extinguish all years old, and a cased or cradled baby of a few months. possible sources of error, and determine how the case The two cows, one of which was in the process of being really stood. milked, were about the size of British calves, but evi- The wind next morning being still adverse, we were dently mature animals of their kind. It was a collec-induced to spend the day in an examination of the tion of miniatures; for the woman, the girl, and the valleys connected with Komagfiord and Kortsfiord, baby were all as little in proportion as the cows. There which we were assured were readily accessible from was something affecting in this display of diminutive- each other by crossing over an isthmus. Komagfiord ness. I felt a disposition to do something kind to the is a short inlet of the ocean, so called from its resempoor creatures, and without waiting to consider, pro- blance to the komag or Lappish shoe. At the upper ceeded upon the English philosophy of slipping some extremity, half an English mile from Mr Buch's house, money into the hand of the girl. I then went into the there is a farmhouse, seated on a low green slope, close house near by. Imagine a small low structure of stone to the embouchure of a rivulet, which here descends and turf, with a turf roof supported by upright sticks from the mountains. The ancient delta of this rill is, placed within, and a clumsy aperture in the centre for as usual, cut through by the stream, leaving a wing on the emission of smoke. The door, within a little porch, each side, across which terraces are marked, like the was exactly three feet high. In the interior I found an rising seats of an amphitheatre. Among these the most expiring fire in the centre of the earthen floor, several conspicuous is the one which is continued all the way pots and pans scattered about, and the remains of a mess round the fiord, being the lower of the two notable lines. of boiled fish in a dish somewhat like a boat-scoop. Be- The existence of such objects, mixed up in a series with hind the range of upright supports for the roof was a one of M. Bravais's two lines, is important, as showing series of stall-like compartments, composed, however, the number of pauses that were made during that shift only of a few sticks, and several of which, I was told by of relative level to which he points. I ascertained the my boatmen, were actually used for the lodging of the elevations of three below the notable terrace, and six few cows, goats, and sheep belonging to the family; above, the highest of the last not being up to the elevawhile in another, somewhat wider, lay a bundle of twigs tion which we were to expect for the second line.* and leaves-their only bed; and another was formed Thus it appears that since the formation of that line, into a rack of shelves, containing many dishes of milk, instead of one pause, or at the utmost two, as indicated and a few cheeses still under pressure. It was an inte- by M. Bravais, there have been not fewer than ten. resting picture of the first efforts of human nature to The passage between the two fiords is a rough cut in surround itself with the necessaries and comforts of life. the hills, about 300 feet above the sea. At its extremities A neighbouring cottage was similar in all respects, but there are formations of blocks and rubbish, much like that the animals had separate accommodation. A moraines, though not in the kind of situation where, as female, like a child of ten years, with the shortest foot far as I am aware, such objects are expected. Under(bare) I ever saw on any human being above infancy, neath these, on the Komagfiord side, there is a great stood in the doorway. I was told, to my surprise, that terrace of soft matter, perfectly flat, of perhaps 200 feet she was a married woman! The Lap cottage shows in breadth, and running fully half a mile along the the destitution of a poor form of humanity in very mountain-side. I at first supposed it to be a part of unfavourable physical circumstances; but I felt it im- the upper line in this valley; but that afterwards apportant to remark, that it is essentially distinct from the peared, though in a faint form, at a different level, being destitution, more extreme in all respects, of a degraded 179 feet, while this terrace is 161. Being an indubitable civilisation, or a barbarism existing in the midst of ancient sea-marking, it may be said to raise the numcivilisation, such as that of the worthless among the ber of these objects below the so-called second line to artisans of our large cities, or of the helpless, reckless eleven. cottar of Munster and Connaught. The Laplander has various cooking utensils: he has a pastoral stock by no means limited in amount; he is a gentle barbarian, doing the very best for himself that his limited faculties and the circumstances of his being will admit of, and he loses nothing by imprudence or habitual indulgence in vice. We cannot say so much for vast hordes of people of various kinds who live amongst the magnificent appliances of England, but for whom its superb industrial system, and its unprecedented moral elevation, appear to exist in vain.

There was now an adverse wind in the Sound, against which the oars could make but slow progress. From this cause, and the afternoon being far spent, we found it necessary to return to Komagfiord, from which we

On descending into Kortsfiord valley-to which, I may remark, we were kindly accompanied by Mr Fantromwe found it occupied by two or three Norwegian farmers, the family of one of whom, Mr Kort, have been proprietors for generations, and given the filord its name. We were hospitably received in one of the farmhouses, while Sörn went to procure a boat in which we might cross to the other side. The goodly timber-house and timber furniture, the abundance of milk, the comfortable aspect of the young mistress nursing her first baby, gave us a favourable impression of the life of the Fin

*The terraces in this delta are at the following heights: 36-75— 4115-48-71-67-24 (the utmost height at this place of what has been

called the notable terrace of this valley)-83-05-89-37—96 60—113-77 -123-33-151-97.

which gave the lower line at 57 and the upper at 155-
a decided fall from the points farther to the south, yet
still insufficient to establish a clear conclusion on the
subject. I may remark that it is at this place that
the terrace assumes the great breadth, and shows the ex-
traordinary flatness, which have been already described.
The cliff above is marked with platforms or small
terraces reaching to 300 feet, and on these I found
gneiss blocks and gravel reposing. The blocks seem
little worn by the long journey they must have made :
one measured fully ten feet on each side. One cannot
but wonder at the powers of icebergs-for icebergs are
the only imaginable agents-in transporting such huge
masses.

mark farmer. In such situations the abundance of
good succulent grass seems to make up for all defi-
ciencies. It is evidently the sheet-anchor of the agri-
culturist in this part of the world. A crazy boat hav-
ing been procured from one of the fishing Fins of the
neighbourhood, we crossed to the other side, where there
are no people but Laplanders. Landing on the white
shelly beach, underneath a few huts I met an aged
Lap female walking about, leading one wee wee lamb-
an affecting picture. Small things being great to little
people, what interests, I thought, might be bound up
with that diminutive isolated piece of pastoral pro-
perty! The lower great line is expressed here in a
broad terrace, the utmost height of which is 68.72 feet,
being a slight rise upon the same object in Komagfiord. During the day, by the exertions of our boatmen, we
There is also an upper line, but I have failed to make made good progress along the Sound, and in the evening
out with clearness from my notes its true elevation. arrived at a place on the coast of Seiland called Quis-
Finally, in the brink of a mountain streamlet, amidst naes, which is remarkable in its way, as being the only
rough ground, there is a large mass of transported place on the line between Komagfiord and Hammerfest
moraine-like materials, rising from 241 to 256 feet. It (five-and-twenty miles) where there is any Norwegian
coincides in level with a similar formation at the mouth family, the inhabitants elsewhere being Queens and Laps.
of the valley of passage communicating with Komag- Paul Olsen's huus maintained, during the next ten days, an
fiord.
important place in our consideration, on account of this
distinction attending it; but on landing now, we found
it only a poor fisherman's cottage, the elder people from
home, and not only no provisions to be had, but neither
fire nor clean water. Having, after some difficulty,
obtained a small supply of the latter article, we made
a fire on the beach, and brought our kettle and tea
apparatus into play. I cannot say, however, that we
were very successful in the result. We had now, not
the mainland, but the island of Qualöe on our right
hand. After proceeding a few miles, we passed through
a strait called, from the current ever traversing it,
Strömen. Here, amidst the calm of sky and sea, a
curious sight met our eyes: the sea throughout the
whole strait seemed to be one mass of animal life.
Hundreds of fish were popping up their heads-I sup-
pose for flies or animalcules on the surface; and even
where this was unbroken, there was a manifest com-
motion, indicative of the greater stir below. There
were several boats abroad, and their take, as may be
supposed, was abundant. I was told that these are sei-
fish, the coarsest species prevalent on the Norwegian
coasts.

We returned to our friend Mr Buch's to an early dinner, which the ladies had exerted their utmost skill to render a good one. At this meal the men alone sat down the two mistresses, after the Norwegian fashion, walked about the room, helping when necessary, and joining only in the conversation. It was some time before I could reconcile myself to this custom, though it is but a relic of primitive times, when family life was simpler than it now is. I soon came to see or to recollect that, while the doing of humble services for hire fixes an individual on a humble platform of rank, the performance of any offices from the motive of affection is no degradation at all. The kindness and cordiality which reigned in the faces of our hostess and her daughter I never can remember without pleasure. Mr Fantrom on this occasion brought out a bottle of Medoc of his own importing; the usual bottle of corn-brandy was on the table for the service of the party from beginning to end. I regarded an ample pudding accompanied by jelly as the conclusion of this feast of the fiord; but thereafter came an alarming superfluity, in the shape of plates of moltiberry smothered in cream. After all, these did not make their appearance in vain. Finally came a cup of coffee under the shade in the porch, the invariable termination of a Norwegian dinner. Here, with the calm fiord in front, and the Reaumur thermometer reported as 25 degrees, which is equivalent to 88 degrees Fahrenheit, we spent another delightful musical hour, very much like that of the former evening already described.

The next morning was as beautiful as any of the three last, and the wind, such as it was, was declared to be favourable. We started between eight and nine, designing to make a good effort to reach Hammerfest before we should sleep. The fiord was like glass. An English merchant-brig was going slowly along the Sound, with all her sails set, yet apparently not making a mile an hour. I may remark that the expression 'like glass,' though so often used, is never strictly true of the uneasy clement: at the very calmest, the sea ever shows some little swell or tremulousness, as if affected not by anything external, but by a kind of respiration or inward emotion. Having rowed along past Leeris-fiord, I landed to examine the terraces at a place where the upper one made a conspicuous appearance. I found that spot a strange scene of jagged rocks mingled with moss and living vegetation, yet still so decidedly a ledge or section in the mountain-face, that it has been assumed as the line of a path which I observed to be marked with the feet of wild animals as well as of human beings. The lower line was only expressed by a sort of shattering in the face of the precipice. It was set down in our levelling-book at 64.78 feet, while the upper line was about 161. We then moved on, and landing again at Saraby, effected a measurement

It was at a late hour that we 'burst'-to use Coleridge's expression-into the open sea to the north of Seiland, and approached the town of Hammerfest. So mild at this time was the air, that I sat in the boat without gloves, and could even gratify my companion in his wish for a few tunes on the flute. It was curious to think of these airs floating away to the shores, and surprising the Laplanders with an unwonted sound, which their superstition might attribute to something above nature. Turning suddenly round to look at the scenery we were leaving behind, I was myself startled by the sight of the full moon-huge, dim, mysterious— stealing on the scene like a spectre! But in the opposite direction a more interesting sight awaited us: through a flat bar of the clouds we could clearly see the sun walking along the Polar Ocean. Our watches pointed at this time to eleven o'clock: we saw the object equally well a quarter of an hour later, as we were turning into the bay at Hammerfest. There afterwards we found that our watches had been put out of time by the twelve degrees of longitude we had traversed since leaving Trondhiem, so that it appeared, contrary to our expectations, that we had seen the god of day at midnight.

As we neared shore at this place, we were suddenly met in the face by a glow of heat like that felt on passing the mouth of a furnace at a little distance. Extraordinary as our previous experiences of heat had been, this greatly exceeded them, and for some time we could see no adequate cause for the phenomenon. At length it became apparent that we were only coming within the influence of the intense caloric which was radiating from the cliffy rocks along shore, these having been

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