for its height, which is only 5,700 feet above the sea, as for its solitary grandeur, separated from other mountains, yet rearing its head aloft, in the midst of some of the most beautiful scenery in Switzerland, and thought very accessible for a Swiss mountain. The ascent from Weggis winds along over the surface of the mountains, first through cultivated ground, little woods, and steep paths, then through a wilder and more stony region. We had the lake constantly in sight, and the views both up and down were exquisitely beautiful, and of an infinite variety. About one-fourth of the way up we passed a pretty little chapel called Heiligen-kreutz, or Holy Cross; and thence we had a steep and rough ascent to a more level platform, where we passed through an odd-looking natural arch, consisting of two very large detached blocks of nagelflue or puddingstone, holding suspended a third, beneath which the path is continued. After ascending steadily very nearly three hours, we at length reached the top, at which we were, horse, guide, and all, very glad I think. J., who having brought an Alpenstock purposely, would walk, in spite of my remonstrances and wishes that he should provide himself with a horse at Weggis as well as myself, showed such symptoms of fatigue the last two or three miles, that I was seriously alarmed; and our kind, hardy, little Swiss mountaineer guide, who was very careful and obliging, goodnaturedly suggested that he should help himself up by the long tail of my horse, a large, bony, ugly-looking animal, but with a sweet, willing temper; so J., with unbounded faith, it seemed, in Rosinante's willingness to help without kicking, very wisely did as he was directed; and in this droll, but effective fashion, we went along for some way, the good beast really taking a benevolent delight, I thought, in not only bearing me, but the drag at his tail also; and what with the oddity of the thing, and the help, the rest of the ascent was accomplished without breaking down quite. The Culm, or top of the Righi, on which is a goodsized inn, with outhouses, &c., affording plenty of accommodation, is an irregular space of ground of some extent, bare of trees, but covered with turf. After taking one glance round, we were glad to go in doors and rest whilst making a substantial tea; after which, we went out, and thoroughly enjoyed a very fair sunset; heaven's mysteriousness descending on the soul, as she shrouded that vast and beautiful panorama in the purple hues and shadows of evening. Dusk stole on apace, one star shone forth softly burning-the star of love and dreams,' and we betook ourselves to rest, very happy in the thought that there would be a sunrise. There were about twenty others beside ourselves on that mountain-top, chiefly German students, with a few English interspersed. A very cold wind blew as we walked up and down, and snow lay about in large patches. It was not much more than eight o'clock, when other people were going in dressed to a supper, that we, more wisely, retired to rest, in a good, though tiny little room, commanding the east; and getting our usual number of hours' sleep, we naturally awoke about three the following morning, with the first streak of dawn, and oh! how beautiful it was! By the time that wild, unearthly, horn-strain sounded its musical howl, we were very nearly dressed, and presently out on the ridge, watching the dawn of day, the returning march' of the sun. The view was very clear, and the effect of the sun's rays floating about the mountains and in the valleys below us, was most exquisite, but sadly too brief were the sublimest effects. A beautifullydelicate pink tint disclosed one summit after another, and then beds of the most beautiful soft clouds, nestling together in loving repose, gradually rose and quite magically disappeared; revealing one portion after another of the dark landscape beneath, till the whole was bathed in light, with sunshine here and there, and that was more beautiful, perhaps, than if the whole had at once been flooded with sunshine. The Lake of Lucerne, which is very irregular in shape, and in the form of a cross at one end, together with the Lake of Zug, forms one of the most prominent features in the beautiful panorama of the Righi, said to extend over a circumference of three hundred miles. Then, most riveting, was the magnificent white chain of the high Alps of Berne, Unterwalden, and Uri, in one unbroken ridge of peaks and glaciers, including the Jung frau, Eiger, Finister Aärhorn, and many others. Our mountaineer-guide seemed much pleased with our delight, and gave us all the information he could, pointing out the little town of Schwytz, high above the Lake of Lowertz, the heart's-core of Helvetia,' whence comes the name Switzerland, the cradle of Swiss freedom, and in the neighbourhood of many scenes of fearful contests for liberty and escape from Romish persecution. It was not till after the sunrise that we thoroughly enjoyed and learnt off the landscape; and as we were much struck with the desolation of Rossberg, a mountain close by, 4,968 feet high, in the valley behind Arth, I must say a few words about the terrible catastrophe which, in five minutes, swept away a cultivated district, double the extent of the inhabited portion of Paris, entirely destroying several villages, 450 human beings, whole herds of cattle, and rich pasturage, computed to be worth £150,000; raising a debris of rocks, which, of themselves, form hills several hundred feet high. The inhabitants of the neighbouring towns and villages were first roused by loud and grating sounds like thunder; they looked towards the spot whence it came, and beheld the valley shrouded in a cloud of dust; when it had cleared away, they found the face of nature quite changed. "The village of Goldau, the most considerable of the villages overwhelmed in the vale of Arth, had disappeared under a heap of stones and rubbish 100 feet in height, and the whole valley presented nothing but a perfect chaos. All that was ever discovered of Goldau again, was the ball which hung in its steeple, and which was found about a mile off." "Such a mass of earth and stones rushed at once into the lake at Lowertz, although five miles distant, that one end of it was filled up; and a prodigious wave passing completely over the island of Schwanau, 70 feet above the usual level of the water, overwhelmed the opposite shore, and as it returned, swept away into the lake, many houses with their inhabitants." "A long track of ruins, like a scarf, hangs from the shoulder of the Rossberg, in hideous barrenness, over the rich dress of shaggy woods and green pastures, and grows wider and wider down to the lake of Lowertz and to the Righi, a distance of four or five miles, perpetual memorial of that fearful deluge of stones and rubbish which inundated the valley in the month of September, 1806, after a very rainy summer." Our guide had a good deal to say, if we could only have understood his German better, on Rossberg and its devastation; and told us that a child of five years old, rescued alive after having been buried many hours under a heap of stones and rubbish, was still living at Arth, which he pointed out. She was found with a broken thigh, and suffered for years after from the fearful shock, had always been a woman much respected, but she had never married, which he seemed to mention as something remarkable. All the company we had seen out the evening before were certainly not visible on the mountain at half-past three in the morning, where, notwithstanding the prohibition, hung up in French in every room, against taking the blankets and counterpanes as outdoor coverings, we saw two or three, one a lady, stalking about in them,-the more unpardonable, as all appeared to be dressed. We saw the landlord go up to them and remonstrate, and I hope he would make a charge in their bills for their want of consideration. After watching the sun rise till the last of the effects had passed away, finding there was still an hour and a half to six o'clock, the earliest hour we thought we could order breakfast, we went up to our room, where J., still fatigued from the previous day's exertion, sought his bed again; but I sat by the window, dried some flowers, and mused on the glorious prospect, much of which was still visible from it. After breakfast we sallied forth once more to take a last, lingering look around. And very difficult we found it to tear ourselves away from the silent majesty and beauty of the scene, alone worth, we felt, our long journey from England. About seven, however, we gave the word, and set out on our fine descent to Weggis, both of us walking some distance, it was so rough and so very steep, The views in going down were even more charming than in going up, and the flowers, I cannot forget them, smiling and nodding in all directions-sweetest creations of nature innumerable kinds there were, and many of them quite new to me. Often the temptation to gather proved perfectly irresistible, and tin, hands, and pockets, were quite filled by the time we reached Weggis. There we took a boat, with a German lady and gentleman, to Habenstahn, intending to be taken up by the steamer, but the boatmen persuaded us to go on in the boat to Lucerne. Rain came on, though, soon after we were seated, and at the last promontory our men put into shore because of the wind, and there we sat, with what patience we could muster, for a long time, thinking the men very timid, and contrasting them with our own brave sailors at home, as we could see no reason in the world why the promontory shouldn't be rounded, after which Lucerne would be reached in a very short time. At length, completely tiring of our pretty little sheltered cove, we stepped on shore. And then up hill and down, through little groves, fields, and orchards, close to the water, getting lovely glimpses, notwithstanding the rain, of the lake and mountains, we had a beautiful walk, and reached our lodgings by an early hour in the afternoon, very thankful that we had accomplished the expedition in such perfect safety, and with so much delight. "Who first beholds those everlasting clouds, A sense, a feeling, that he loses not- ROGERS. It is no excuse for us that others waste their days in desultory pleasures, and pass their youth without motive and without improvement. Every one must stand alone to give an account at last. - Mrs. Sijourney. |