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stickers, proclaiming every week to titor. He would see his native hills be the « last week of their exist- in the misty pinnacles, and the green ence. I don't know if they are dead dwelling of his fathers in the deepyet; but it is no harm to afford them bosomed glen of the Alpine illusion a little posthumous praise if they are before him. He would, moreover,
The first of these scenes was a perhaps acknowledge himself largely complete deception; I expected every indebted to the faithful transcriber of moment the dean and chapter to the Valley of Sarnen for the sight of make their appearance. In this re- a phenomenon which he had never spect it is the best of the two, which the good fortune to witness in his however is more owing to the nature own country. Two lofty hills rise on of the subject than the felicity of the the back ground, one immediately painter; it is much easier to repre- behind the other. The hindermost is sent in successful perspective a cha- a sugar-loaf piercing into the skies pel, however large, on a sheet of can- far above the penetration of his vas, than a whole country like the round-shouldered brother. Now the Valley of Sarnen. The imagination phenomenon in the picture and, of can readily allow the one, but the course, in the living scene) is this: reason strongly rejects the other. the lower and nearer of these hills is At all events I confess Trinity Chapel covered with snow, whilst the higher fairly took me in. In my golden sim- and more distant is green to the apex. plicity of mind I thought, when I saw I am not sufficiently natural philosoit, that “the play hadn't begun," pher to account for this extraordinary and that I was merely contemplating appearance, but suppose it to arise one of those multitudinous specimens from a different mode of snowing they of plaster-work and architectury have amongst the Alps from what we which are scattered over the West usually see here amidst our humble End and Regent's Park, to the utter hillocks. To accomplish the aforediscountenance of brown brick and said phenomenon it is only necessary comfortability. The beauty of the that it snow horizontally in Switzerstructure was the first thing that land, by which means a mountain brought back my senses, this being a may with every facility be snowed up quality which seldom obtrudes itself as far as the shoulders, and yet preupon the eye of the western itinerant.* serve his head as green and as flouBy narrowly watching the direction rishing as ever. Notwithstanding the of the shadows and finding them to strangeness to a plain-going English be permanent I was at length con- eye of the above stroke of nature, vinced that the artist had befooled the view of the Valley of Sarnen was This is real praise !
picturesque and delightful --and if The view of the Valley of Sarnen it is not gone it is so still. The Swiss was, however, the chief attraction. cottage, the mountain road, the flock The felicity of the execution sur- of sheep feeding in a sequestered prised less, but the beauty of its nook, gave a kind of lonely animascenery gratified more. The inte- tion to the scene; the deep verdure rior of a chapel, unless of the very of the glades and slopes, contrasted richest order of magnificence, cannot with the blue surface of the lake into be as interesting to the spectator as a which they decline, and the vapoury green woodland, a mountain pros- magnificence of the surrounding hills, pect, or a pastoral vale. He may combined to throw a most romantic happen also to be one of those sad air over this beautiful picture. I dogs like myself who have been com- sighed for home when I saw it. A pelled by their follies to exchange a runnel of living water bestowed romantic home for the close squares reality on the scene, and was so conand crooked alleys of this populous trived as to flow down the canvas as wilderness-London : if so the Val- naturally as if it was painted there, ley would possess in his mind a not spoiling the eye for the artificial double advantage over its compe- part of the scene. This is a good test of the merits of the painting ; Pandemoniopanorama, being an exact the works of nature when set beside View of Hell, intended chiefly, I supthose of art generally put the latter pose, for the patronage of those who out of countenance. I hope the intend emigrating thither. It has Valley of Sarnen will remain in the been painted from drawings taken by Regent's Park,—or that it may be Padre B— who visited the prereplaced by something as beautiful. mises, and has been since restored
* I beg leave to direct the attention of all admirers of genuine gothic to a string of towers in wooden bonnets, at the other side of the park from the Diorama. They may afford to the romantic and imaginative a tolerable idea of a row of giants standing asleep in their bedgowns and white cotton night-caps.
There is likewise the Cosmorama, to life by Prince Hohenlohe. But I and the Myrior ama, and many others must defer the account of these to a not mentionable. I hear also that future opportunity. At present—"I there is one in preparation, which is
(as we say in a trato be perfectly ecliptic of all its pre- gedy). Vale! decessors, and is to be called the
can no more
THERE was a light bark on the raging wave
Toss'd by the tempest,—and the billow curld
Above her bending mast, and she was hursd
Midway 'twixt heaven and earth :—and there was one
Stood smiling in that dreadful hour—alone
Curl'd the blue wave and fill’d her snowy sail;
The world unconquer’d, he could not despair,
BURCHELL'S TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN AFRICA.* It is a part of our plan to present design, from causes which he had no occasionally to our readers, an ab- power to control, he has yet offered stract of such works, as contribute to to our perusal, an amusing and inthrow a new and useful light on the structive narration, from which the science of geography. With this view general reader, as well as the lover we take up the Travels of Mr. Bur- of natural history, may draw much chell in Southern Africa, not only as interesting and satisfactory intelliaffording an accession to our know- gence. ledge of distant regions, but as ex- On the 26th of November, 1810, hibiting a proof of individual and Mr. Burchell first landed at the Cape, liberal enterprise,
with those intense feelings of curiohappy to have an opportunity of sity and expectation, which the ascommending. The writer appears to pect of the country is calculated to have been well qualified for his task, awaken, in a mind devoted to sciby his acquirements and spirit; and ence, and alive to the beauties of nathough he necessarily failed in the ture. After passing through the usual full accomplishment of his original ceremonies of introduction, he re
* Travels in the Interior of Southern Africa, by William J. Burchell, Esq. Vols. I. and II. quarto. London, 1822–1824.
solved to establish his residence in country beyond Litakun, and he was Cape Town, for some months, in or- anxious to explore the equally under to mature his arrangements, and known tract between that place and acquire a knowledge of that dialect Graff Reynet, on the eastern side of of the Dutch, which is the current the colony. In the fulfilment of this language of the colony, as well a- plan, he had soon reason to anticimong the Hottentot, as the European pate considerable embarrassment, population. Impatient, however, to from the difficulty of obtaining Hotenter into that field of inquiry, which tentot attendants, for these people was his principal object, he made show at all times a reluctance to venseveral excursions in the vicinity of ture beyond the boundaries, and this the capital, and soon found that all feeling was strengthened by the fatal anticipation was greatly surpassed, result of an expedition, sent out by by the rich and varied stores, which the governor in 1808, under Dr. this portion of the globe displays to Cowan and Captain Donovan. Anthe eye of the botanist. He fortu- other cause of perplexity was derived nately became acquainted with two from the report, that a hostile body gentlemen of congenial pursuits, Mr. of Caffres had passed along the borHesse and Mr. Poleman, through ders of the district of Graff Reynet, whose means he was introduced to and established themselves on the many of the most respectable Dutch Gariep, which lay in his intended families. He also derived much va- route. In consequence of these difluable information with regard to his ficulties and dangers, many of his future proceedings, from Mr. Andere friends strenuously laboured to divert son, who had resided some years as him from his purpose ; and he was a missionary at the Settlement of at length induced to wait the arrival Klaarwater, and who was afterwards of a party of Hottentots, who were destined to become his fellow travel- expected from Klaarwater, in order to ler, as far as that place.
accompany them on their return. Among the exploratory journeys, The interval, however, was not unwhich he undertook in this interval, profitably spent; for he visited the we may mention one to the summit village of Tulbagh, situated in the of Table Mountain, another into the recesses of the Zwarteberg, and in district called Hottentot's Holland, his return passed through the Paarl and a third to the celebrated vine- and Stellenbosch. yard, which produces the Constantia. In April his preparations were He also visited the hot baths of the partly matured. He procured a Zwarteberg, and the missionary waggon, of the country fabric, which settlement of the Moravians, at Ge- was fitted up for his particular purnadenthal, where he found much to poses; and had made a purchase of admire, in the tranquillity and the requisite number of oxen. A good order of the establishment, the second waggon was afterwards found quiet and unassuming manners of the necessary, to convey a portion of his brethren, and the sedate and deco- baggage. T cost of these vehirous behaviour of the Hottentots in cles, and of the different requisites the offices of religion.
for his journey, amounted to above The original purpose of Mr. Bur. 6001. Still one deficiency was illchell was to direct his route through supplied, namely the proper number the inland regions, in a course, which of Hottentot attendants. After many would ultimately bring him to one of fruitless inquiries and disappointthe European settlements on the ments, he engaged two of the Klaareastern coast of Africa, from whence water party, who arrived in April, he intended to hire a vessel for St. to attend him as far as that place; Helena, and then return to England. and he afterwards obtained from the He was influenced in this decision, Cape regiment another, who had been by the consideration, that the wes- accustomed to the management of a tern coast is supposed to be barren, waggon and team of oxen. To this and deficient in water, while the number was subsequently added a eastern parts are comparatively po- fourth, named Stoffel Spielman, who pulous and fertile. He was aware, was recommended for his skill as a also, that little was known of the marksman, a qualification of peculiar utility on such an expedition, and ravine, watered by the Hex. At a who besides had visited most parts farm in this quarter, he made a conof the colony. The wife of this man siderable addition to his stock of towas also permitted to form one of bacco, which may in a manner be the party. Finally, our traveller re- regarded as the current money of the ceived the requisite permission to interior. For the first time, he here pass the boundaries, and an official observed the Acacia or Dorn tree, order for such assistance as he might which resembles the true Acacia or need, as well as for the conveyance Gum Arabic tree of Egypt, and forms of his correspondence and packets, a botanical characteristic of the extra by the agents and servants of the go- tropical part of Africa. vernment.
At length the travellers reached At length he commenced his long the Karro Poort, or pass through a peregrination, and on the 19th of range of mountains, separating the June, for the first time, slept in the district called the great Karro, from open air. He was accompanied by the southern parts of the colony. Mr. Anderson and his wife, who were This term in the language of the proceeding to Klaarwater, and by Hottentots signifies arid or dry, and Mr. Kramer, another of the mission is properly applied to the country. aries belonging to that station ; and The strata of these mountains are inthe rest of the party were successive, clined in opposite positions, and culy to join on their route.
riously curved in undulating lines. On the 24th of June they reached On the 14th of July they entered the the great Berg river, without any pass, and found the road sandy and material hinderance, and crossed it stony, and the atmosphere remarkon a kind of floating platform, with ably clear and dry: the soil was rails at the sides, and hinges at the clayey, washed smooth by frequent ends. This river is subject to sud- thunder showers, and baked so hard den and dangerous tloods, which by the heat, as to leave no traces of have frequently produced the most the wheels. The landscape was bare fatal consequences, to those who and uniform, and a few scattered have stationed themselves unguard- clumps of thorn trees, occasionally edly on its banks. On the 26th gladdened the eye, like the Oases in they traversed Roodzands Kloof, the desert. In the rainy season, leading to Tulbagh. Here Mr. Bur- however, the scene is changed, and chell caused his papers to be regis- the Karro assumes a verdant hue, tered in the office of the Landdrost from the multitude of small plants, of the district, and signed the legal which are then forced into rapid veagreement with the Hottentots in his getation. They were visited by a service. Here he was also joined by few boors, who wander over these a Hottentot, named Gerrit or Gert, extensive plains, with their cattle ; who had been engaged for him by the but from the want of society these Moravian missionaries at Genaden- men appeared to be limited in the fathal. Reports agaiu prevailing, that culties both of speech and thought; the hostile body of the Caffres were for they were totally uninformed, and posted on their route, a deliberation nearly as incommunicative. took place, in which it was finally After traversing Ongelucks river, agreed, to proceed as far as the the ground became hilly, and as no boundaries of the colony. If at that rain had recently fallen, their cattle point the rumour were confirmed, Mr. were much distressed by the drought. Burchell adopted the resolution of In their progress they were joined by penetrating alone through the land another party of the Klaarwater of the Namaquas, on the western Hottentots, and at length caught a coast.
view of the Roggeveld mountains, On the 4th of July the party quit- whose even summits present one ted Tulbagh, after experiencing the long unbroken horizontal line. This warmest interest and kindness from chain is the third step or rise in the the inhabitants. From an appre- surface of southern Africa : the first hension of floods, they hastened to being the great western range, and the cross the Berg river, and to clear the second the southern side of the great wild and romantic, though dangerous Karro. The high level of the Rog
geveld is indicated by the storms of as the northern boundary of the cosnow to which it is subject, though lony. As they were now entering on lying under the parallel of 32o. the territory of the Bushmen, a race
After pausing some days to accom- hostile to the colonists, ammunition modate the missionaries, and suffer- was distributed to the whole party, ing various inconveniences, from the every gun was kept loaded, and a arid and barren nature of the watch set during the night. This country, they resumed their jour. being the last place of rendezvous, ney on the 5th of August. Provided several waggons now joined them, with relays of cattle, in consequence making the number eighteen. of the official order, they succeeded In four days they bade farewell in scaling the steep ascent of the to the colony. Soon afterwards they Roggeveld, which in the opinion of observed the footsteps of lions, and our traveller rises to an elevation of to protect their cattle from the at, 6000 or 7000 feet. Here they took tacks of these animals, they adopted leave of the inhabited parts of the the precaution of securing them colony, and the society of men of their during the night, within a circle own colour. The air was cold and formed by the waggons. At the seboisterous, fuel difficult to be procur- cond stage, they had the satisfaction ed; and scarcely a blade of grass of meeting a considerable relay of appeared to enliven the scene. They oxen, sent from Klaarwater. They were themselves the only living ob- at the same time received the agreejects, in this wide and dreary ex- able intelligence that the body of panse.
Caffres, which had caused so much At the Reed River they waited for anxiety, were peaceable and quiet on the missionaries who had remained the Gariep. All apprehensions of an behind. This, with the Zak and the attack were thus happily dissipated. Brakke River, are the only streams Hitherto they had seen none of the south of the Gariep, a distance of 358 inhabitants of these wastes; but on miles ; and even these cease to flow the 8th of September they were visitfor nearly six months in the year. ed by a party of eleven Bushmen and
The missionaries arriving on the three women. The men were all be13th of August, the party was mus- low five feet in height, and the tered. It consisted of six waggons, women still shorter; and their skin with their proportion of people; and was of a sallow brown colour, darkin the train were four horses, a flockened by dirt and grease. The next of sheep, and a pack of dogs. Being day they descried the Karree moun, joined on the Karree River by Be- tains, presenting their broad level rends, one of the captains or chiefs of tops, and forming a species of belt, the Klaarwater Kraal, their numbers from five to ten miles wide, which amounted to 97 persons, including runs north-east and south-west, to an women and children; the men mostly unknown extent. As they emerged armed with muskets, and partly from the pass, through these moundressed in the European, partly in tains, an immense plain stretched betheir native costume. The weather fore them, and the scope of vision now became variable, with rain, hail, was terminated by far distant hills. and violent winds, and even a fall of Want of water obliged them to hurry snow so deep as to occasion a tem- over this expanse with unabated porary obstruction to their progress. speed. On the 14th they traversed
On the Dwaal River, which they the range called the Modder Gat reached August 27, they learnt from mountains, consisting of a blackish a Hottentot that the Caffres had ad- brown rock, and assuming at a distvanced to the Zak, with a resolution ance a volcanic character. The next to attack the caravan. This intel- day they drew near the banks of the ligence occasioned great agitation. Gariep, experiencing on their march The missionaries were terrified and the effects of an African thunder anxious to return; but by casting shower. The lightning flashed in the lots, it was finally decided that they most vivid streams, the thunder should proceed.
burst with tremendous explosions, On the 31st of August they reach- and, in a moment, a black mass of ed the Zak River, which is considered clouds discharged a deluge of water.