Cannabis fativa, or common hemp, has the 18th Fructidor-Comparison with been long planted here as a fubftitute for tobacco, but the idea was never extended to make it ufeful in any other way." P. 406. "A native species of Hibiscus, that I brought from the vicinity of Plettenberg's bay, yields a hemp of an excellent quality, little perhaps inferior to that of the cannabis, or common hemp, which is moft unquestionably the beft material yet difcovered for the manufacture of ftrong cordage. The Janap of India, Crotularia juncea, from which a ftrong coarfe ftuff is manufactured under the name of Gunney, feems to thrive very well in the climate of the Cape. Cotton and indigo may botn be produced in any quantity in this colony; but the labour neceffary in the preparation of the latter, and the enormous price of flaves, or the hire of free workmen, would fcarcely be repaid to the cultivator. That fpecies of cotton-plant called the hirfutum feems to fuftain the fouth-eaft blafts of wind with the leaft degree of injury; but the Bourbon cotton, originally from the Weft Indies, will thrive juft as well in the interior parts of the country, where the fouth-eafters extend not with that degree of ftrength fo as to caufe any injury to vegetation. Moft of the India and China fruits, that have yet been brought into the garden, feem to bid fair for fuccefs. In short, there is not, perhaps, in the whole world, a place fo well adapted for concentrating the various products of the vegetable kingdom, as the fouthern angle of Africa." P. 409. LVI. Travels in Portugal, and through France and Spain. With a Differtation on the Li erature of Portugal, and the Spanish and Portugueze Languages. By HENRY FREDERICK LINK, Profeffor at the Univerfity of Roftock, and Member of various learned Societics. Trauf. lated from the German by JOHN HINCKLEY, Efq. With Notes by the Tranflator. 8vo. pp. 504. 95. Longman and Rees. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Calais-Country be tween Calais and Paris.II. Paris-Difpofition of the People after I London--Verfailles.-I. From Paris, through Orleans and Limoges, to the Banks of the Dordogne.--IV. From the Banks of the Dordogne to the Banks of the Garenne.-V. Gafcony-The Pyrenees - VI. Orthes Bayonne-Entrance into Spain.— VII. Bifcay.--VIII. Old Caftile.IX. Madrid --X. New Caftile.XI. Eftremadura.--XII. Entrance into Portugal-Elvas--The Portugueze Military.--XIII. From Elvas to Eftremoz-Arragolos-Montemor o Novo.--XIV. Heaths in the Province of Alemtejo-General Remarks on that Province.--XV. Lisbon. XVI. The Country round Lisbon. -XVII. Climate of Lifbon-Provifions.-XVIII. Police of Lisbon, and Defcription of the Portugueze.--XIX. The Amufements of Lisbon.-XX. Public Inftitutions at Lisbon.-XXI. Villages round Lisbon--Quelus, the royal Refidence. Mountains of Cintra.-XXIII. Journey to St. Ubes, Alcacer do Sal, Grandola-The Serra da Arrabida-St. Ubes.-XXIV. Journey into the northern Provinces-From Lisbon to Caldas da Rainha.- -XXV. From Caldas to Combra, through Allcobaça and Batalha.-XXVI. Coimbra XXII. The -The Univerfity--Causes of the Backwardness of Portugueze Literature.-XXVII. The Country round Coimbra-Ines de Caftro-Ágricultural Economy.--XXVIII. Aveiro Oporto.XXIX. Journey to Braga-Province of Entre-Douro-eMinho.--XXX. Journey to Amarante-Serra de Marao-Pezo de Regua-Remarks on the national Dress, --XXXI. The Culture of the Vine. XXXII. Journey to Eftrella-Defcription of that Range of Mountains. XXXIII. Return from the Serra de Eftrella to Lisbon--Portugueze Juftice.--XXXIV. Journey to Algarvia-Road through the Province of Alemtejo-Serra de Monchique.XXXV. Cape St. Vincents--Lagos Villanova-Loule-Preparation of Thread from Aloes.-XXXVI. Faro Cultivation of the Fig-tree Tavera Tavera---Remarks on Algarvia-Villa Real--Account of the Fishery there. XXXVII. Return from Algarvia through Alemtejo by Mertola, Serpa, and Evora-A Differtation on the Literature of Portugal, and the Spanish and Portugueze LanguagesA comparative View of the Spanish and Portugueze Languages. EXTRACTS FROM THE PREFACE. "THAT zealous and active patron of natural hiftory, the Count of Hoffmannfegg, who is himfelf fo great a proficient in the science, being defirous of a companion in his travels to Portugal not wholly unexperienced in botany and mineralogy, I had the honour to be chofen to that important poft. found it fo in one of the firft inns, called the Crofs of Malta. The common people, who fill the streets, accord with this defcription. They are dreffed entirely in brown cloth, made of the brown wool of the country, wear a brown cap, and often brown fpatterdafhes; but their fhoes are leather, thofe of wood being unknown throughout Spain. Brown is a very general colour; and even the military wear fhort brown coats. In other refpects, the men, even to the loweft claffes, are dreffed like the Germans and the French. However, the better kind of artifans wear a hair-net called redefilla or cofia, and a jacket with a vaft number of fmall buttons; but perfons of condition generally wear, as with us Germans, a white cloak, and sword, and feldom ufe boots. The women, generally fpeaking, adhere more closely to the true Spanish drefs than the men; for of the latter, the firft people dress exactly as throughout the rest of Europe, except in fome trifles; but in other refpects, the Spanish drefs extends to perfons of confiderably high rank, and to perfons, who, according to our German cuftoms, drefs almost in the fame ftyle as the firft clafs of fociety. The black filk mantilla or veil, which ends before, in a crape, and covers the face, fometimes entirely, fometimes in part, a fhort and generally black petticoat, like the veil, adorned with fringe or Vandykes, which, like that, does not entirely conceal the figure, conftitute the peculiarity of this dress among perfons of eafy circumstances. Their fhoes were at this time worn with high-pointed heels; but the upper leather, according to a fashion borrowed from the reft and of Europe, was of a different colour. Their hollow but black and fiery eyes, their flender and fomewhat too meagre fhape, the abfence of a freth and ruddy bloom, the yellow hue which affumes its place, and their legs, which are often bare up to the calves, give them altogether an unpleafant, but at the fame time a licentious look. "We embarked at Hamburg in the fummer of 1797, and being obliged by contrary winds and ftorms to caft anchor off Romney, quitted the fhip and landed at Dover; from which place we pursued our journey through France and Spain to Portugal, for the purpose of travelling over that country more minutely. In this we employed the greater part of the year 1798; but in 1799, my affairs obliging me to leave that country, I embarked on board the packet for Falmouth, and croffing England by London and Yarmouth returned to Hamburg. The Count ftill remains in Portugal, where, with indefatigable affiduity, he is investigating the natural history of that country." P.iii. "The unlearned reader fhould be apprized that Lufitania was the ancient name of Portugal. “The nh and lh are liquids in Portugueze, being pronounced like gn and gl in Italian and French, or Il in Spanish. T." P. viii. EXTRACTS. MADRID. "THE interior of the houses, even of thofe of confiderable fize, by no means agrees with the external appearance of the town. The entrances are narrow and awkward, and the apartments crowded together without order. Charles III. who changed Madrid from a filthy wretched village to a charming capital, could not force his reforms into the interior of the houses, where filth and dirt still prevail. We even been a favourite tree' of the poets, by whom it has been much celebrated, perhaps because no tree of equal beauty grows fo easily and rapidly in this climate. The poplars along the banks of the Manzanares are well known to the readers of old Spanish poetry. The Prado is now the ufual promenade, where in the morning perfons of high rank are feen both on foot and on horseback; but after the fiesta, or afternoon-nap, the whole is filled with fplendid equipages, which, according to a cuftom peculiar to Spain, daily perform the fame dull round, following each other during an hour or two, up one mall and down another, in a flow and tedious proceffion, without feeing any one but foot paffengers of inferior 'condition, or the other coaches which happen to be in the oppofite rank, and forming the moft irkfome amufement that poffibly can be imagined: nor did I, after the first time I had experienced it, ever confent to endure it again. Sometimes a few coaches are feen without the gate, between the rows of trees on the road to Aranjuez. But who could be the bold adventurer, who firft braved the laws of etiquette by taking his pleasure without the gate? "Madrid appears a very dead place except at the time of the promenade in the Prado, or in the morning, at fome part where a celebrated mass is to be read. A great city, fituated on a brook in an ungrateful country, where manufactures only flourish by means of extraordinary exertion and encouragement, and where the court -refides but a few weeks in the year, is great but by force, and that force is every where perceived. At Madrid there is a great scarcity of amufements, which are therefore fupplied by devotion, and its fifter paffion love. In Spain, the ftage is very poor; and at both the theatres at Madrid, in general, bad pieces are performed by miferable players. One, however, of the actreffes, who was not a bad performer, at this time fhone in heroic parts. In this respect the Spaniards are even inferior to the Portugueze, and have nothing to compare with the excellent opera at Lifbon. Spaniards feldom invite company to dinner, and more rarely, if ever, to fupper. They confine themselves to tertullas, where tea is given, and that great quantity of fweetmeats devoured, at which Bourgoing expressed fo much furprise. But that writer is mistaken in applauding the temperance of the lower orders, and afferting, that no man but a foreigner is ever seen drunk at Madrid. I have seen many Spaniards drunk; and the walloon foldiers may in fome measure be excused for this vice, when, inftead of the four wine of Germany and Italy, they can purchase the fiery La Mancha for a trifle. "The climate of Madrid is in general very agreeable, the air being warm, and rain uncommon; for the frontier mountains of Caftile feem to keep off the clouds, which I frequently faw, when the wind was north, refting upon, and hiding their fummits, before they defcended to the adjacent country. In fummer the air is burning hot, no feabreezes lending their aid to cool it, and in winter uncommonly cold; I have often seen the Manzanares covered with ice. This extreme cold, in fo foutherly a latitude, undoubtedly arifes from the high fituation of the town, as the conftantly low ftate of the barometer and the continual descent to approach the banks of the Tagus, which from Aranjuez to Lisbon has also a confiderable fall, fufficiently prove."P. 96. PORTUGUEZE MILITARY. "THE uniform of the Portugueze infantry and cavalry is dark blue; that of the huffars light blue; the marines green; and the failors are dreffed like the English. But the blue or red cloth breeches of many of the regiments, and the black Manchefter breeches of the officers, have an unpleafing appearance. Generals and other officers wear a fuit of fcarlet, richly embroidered with gold. The cavalry, like that of Spain, ride stallions; but their horfes are in better condition. They do not ride ill, but their uniforms ill become them. The foldiers are but poorly paid: a private receives two vinteins, or forty rees (about twopence fterling); from which fomething is deducted for clothing. This is extremely miserable pay in fo dear a country as Portugal, par ticularly at Lisbon. Bread, a fardine, and bad wine, are the conftant and daily food of these men, who feldem or never tafte meat or vegetables. In the year 1798, many young men were preffed, and many of the regiments increased by five hundred men; they were were torn from the fields and kidnapped every where, and the government promifed rewards to the juizes de fora who should send them moft recruits. In confequence of this, whole troops of confiderable length were often met travelling like criminals with their hands bound. It was painful to behold these unfortunate people, who perhaps could live happily and comfortably at home on the fruit of their labour, now brought by force to ftarve in the towns. At Lisbon I have often been folicited in an evening for charity by men among the guard at the barracks of the regiment of Gomez Freire, who had the greateft claim to my compaffion. But can any man blame the natives of this country for fhunning military service under fuch circumstances?" ~ P. 139. THE SOIL ROUND LISBON. "THE foil round Lisbon confifts of limestone and basalt; the former lying at top, and being here and there very white, clofe, and excellent for building, but breaking too coarse for the ftatuary. Another fingular fpecies of limestone, which only forms a mafs of petrification, appears at a depth in both banks of the river, lying beneath the other ftrata. The bafalt begins at the bank not far from the fea, and then proceeds through Quelus toward Bellas; meanwhile a branch of the basalt mountain extends beyond the city by the aqueduct, and unites with the forementioned chain toward Bellas. From thence the basalt country extends as far as Cabeça de Montachique. It properly forms only one mafs of bafalt, which is here and there, covered with limeftone. It is particularly ftriking that bafalt is only found in those two parts of Portugal, Lisbon and Cape St. Vincent, where the earthquake of 1755 was moft violent; and this circumftance is thought to confirm the opinion that bafalt covering great ftrata of coal furnishes materials for fubterraneous fires, and thus gives rife to earthquakes and volcanoes; but it muft not be forgotten that Belem, which partly ftands on a bafalt hill, fuffered lefs from that earthquake than fome parts of the town evidently founded upon limeftone; perhaps the bafalt had at fome former period been forced up from these parts by a fimilar convul fion; and the fhocks which Lisbon has felt from time to time are attempts of nature to raise other fimilar hills. But it is evident this is one of the innumerable hypotheses that have been thrown out without proof on this fubject. Portugal, however, is rich in warm fprings, which are doubtless the effect of fubterraneous fires. Such springs are found even in Lisbon, though the warmth is very flight; alfo, at Cafcaes a few miles from Lifbon." P. 182. THE AQUEDUCT. "CLOSE to the north fide of the town, is that bold and grand work of art, the aqueduct called os arços, by which water is brought from several springs fituated at a distance of three leagues and near the village of Bellas, being in fome parts conducted under ground. Near the town it paffes over a deep valley, and the works are planned with great magnificence. It refts on several bold arches, the largest of which is 230 feet 10 inches French high, and 107 feet 8 inches broad. The view is fingular when the spectator ftands beneath it, and its pointed arches feem changed into a majestic vault that re-echoes every found. The whole length of the aqueduct is 2400 feet. In the middle is a covered arched way, of feven or eight feet, where the water flows on each fide through a tunnel of ftone. Without this arched way and on each fide is a path, where two perfons can conveniently walk abreaft, with a parapet, over which they may look down to its bafe. The small towers perhaps difturb the general effect, but could not be dispensed with, for they serve as ventilators. "The water enters the town at a place called da Amoreira, where it divides into feveral other aqueducts, and fupplies the fountains (or chafarizes) which are often very ornamental, though in a bad tafte. Here the gallegos draw water in fmall barrels, and cry it about the streets. The water is very good, containing a portion of oxygenated calcareous earth, its fources being in limestone hills. The Portu- ́ gueze being inhabitants of a warm cli-` mate, cannot be blamed for loving good water, but the ridiculous accounts of Coftigan and other travellers on this fubject are much exaggerated. In fummer, water is fold by the glass throughout throughout Spain and Portugal, in the public fquares and promenades; and among both these nations an excellent method is ufed to keep water and other liquors cool in fummer. Earthen veffels are made of clay containing lime and iron, fo as to be very porous, but without glazing. Thefe veffels, which are called bucaros or alcarrazes, fuffer the moisture to pervade their fubftance in the form of a fine dew, which is continually evaporating, and thus producing cold. At first they give the water an unpleasant earthy tafte, which, however, it foon lofes by ufe." P. 183. "THE first object that must frike every foreigner on entering Lifbon, is the badnefs of the police; the filth of the ftreets lies every where in heaps, which, in the narrow ftreets where the rain does not wash it away, require great fkill in walking, to avoid finking into them. In one of the most frequented streets on the river leading to the Ribera Nova, there is only a narrow path winding near the houfes; and the reader may form an idea of the number of people who daily ufe it, the gallegos with their very heavy burdens, which a paffenger cannot avoid; while the carts pafs as near to the houfes as poflible, that the horfes may not go in the deepest part of the mud; and thus all the dirt and filth is blindly fplathed upon the paflengers, in the worst manner conceivable. As to the night, the city was formerly lighted, but now this practice has ceased; and, as the window-fhutters are fhut early, there is no light to diminish the dark nefs of these dirty, narrow, ill-paved ftreets. A hoft of dogs without mafters, and living on the public, wander about like hungry wolves; and, ftill worfe than thefe, an army of banditti. Our friends often expreffed their aftonifhment at our venturing into Portugal in thefe times of war; but I affired them it was by no means fo bold an undertaking as to go at midnight from Belem to Maravilhas, at the eastern extremity of the town. How can a nation, among whom are a number of enlightened men, bear fuch an abomination, which degrades Lisbon even below Conftantinople? "The ampfements of the carnival are always governed by the ruling taste of every nation. Of what then should they confift at Lisbon? Both high and low delight in throwing all kinds of dirt and filth on the paffengers, who, in conformity to cuftom, and to avoid quarrels, muft bear it patiently. "The high walls of the quintas in the town, the vacant and deferted grounds, invite to robbery and murder, which are fill farther favoured by the badnefs of the police. Thefe crimes are always perpetrated with knives, though allpointed knives are prohibited. "Murders generally arife from revenge or jealoufy; robbers are generally contented with threats. The spring is the most dangerous time, and I have known every night marked with fome murder. The boldness of the affaffins is aftonishing. On a faft-day, in a proceflion in honour of St. Rochus, a man was murdered in open day in the throng, at five o'clock in the afternoon. In the fummer of the fame year a man was robbed at noon, between the walls near the Prince of Waldeck's, who was witnefs to the tranfaction. The robbers were even fo bold as to attack coaches. But the criminals almoft always efcaped, the compaffion of the Portugueze being fuch, that every one affifts him in his flight. They exclaim Coutadinho! or, Alas poor man! and every thing is done to aflift him. The punishment of death is entirely done away, and the culprit is fent to the Indies or Angola; a punishment which by no means gives the impreffion of death, though the climates of both are fo unwholesome that deftruction is certain. "A great part of these robbers are negroes, of whom there is a greater number here, perhaps, than in any other city of Europe, not excepting London. Many of them get their bread as tradespeople, not unfrequently become good and refpectable citizens, and inftances occur of their arriving at a high degree of kill as artifans. A larger portion are beggars, thieves, procurers, and procureffes. Every negro who has ferved his master seven years in Europe is free, and then not unfrequently becomes a beggar unless he has had a very good mafter. Great numbers of them are employed as failors, and I do vot fee any reafon why they are not alfo enlifted as foldiers; but Mr. Jungk's affertion, that one fourth of the inhabitants of Lifbon are negroes and creoles, like many other |