Page images
PDF
EPUB
[blocks in formation]

"IT is more particularly in the islands of the Ægean Sea that I have directed my researches, in that multitude of groups of lands and rocks, feattered without order in the middle of this fea, as an eternal monument of its conqueft over the continent. Divided by the ancients into Cylades and Sporades, denominations at prefent forgotten, they are at this day known under the general defignation of Islands of the Archipelago. Although I have not vifited them all, the rather long ftay which I made in fome of them, the intercourfe that I had with men who inhabited them, or were perfectly acquainted with them, the information that I acquired in the fame countries, have enabled me to collect certain particulars refpecting each of them, and to speak of them with precition.

"The islands of the Archipelago, moft of which are remarkable for the fertility and the beauty of their foil, celebrated in antiquity, and famed for having given birth to great men, are ftill at this day important points of eftablishment, communication, or commerce. We have a great intereft in being well acquainted with them; and I am of opinion, that my work will leave nothing to be withed for in that refpect. This, at leaft, is the talk which I have impofed on myfelf, and which I have endeavoured to accomplish.

"We had already fome general defcriptions of the islands of the Archipelago; one of the moft extenfive is that of Dapper; it is the work of a geographer who defcribes what he has not feen, and only by copying what others had written before him. Tournefort, that immortal man, full of fcience and taste, and whom every traveller who publishes his accounts ought to take for a model, has likewise defcribed, but with a different pencil from Dapper, these fame islands of the Archipelago of the Levant. But fince the travels of the French naturalift, as well as fince the defcription of Dapper, they no longer have the fame ap

pearance. The change of masters in fome, the confequences of tyranny in all, time and other circumftances, have introduced differences between former accounts and the narrative which I now prefent. Befides, I fhall here repeat what I have already said on the fubject of my Travels in Egypt, that it is impoffible for the fame man to obferve every thing; the one collects what efcaped him by whom he was preceded; and, in fhort, in like manner as painters have their particu lar ftyle in reprefenting the fame fubject, each obferver has alfo his manner of feeing and defcribing what he has feen; fo that the fame object may be perceived under different points of view, and the fame circumstance be differently related by feveral perfons, and still be interesting." P. xxvii.

"It is not, however, to the islands of the Archipelago that my excurfions have been limited, and that my obfervations will be confined: the large and beautiful island of Candia, in which I made feveral journies, fome parts of Turkey in Afia Minor, Macedonia, and the Morea, have been the object of my peregrinations, as they will be the fubject of my ftory." P. xxx.

"The chart which is annexed to my book, is one of the handfomeft and most complete that has been conftructed of that extent of fea and land, which is ufually diftinguished by the na:ne of the Levant. To my own nautical and geographical obfervations, I have added thofe of the feamen, travellers, and geographers, the most modern and the moft efteemed; and, in order to give an idea of the pains which I have taken to render this chart as minute and correct as poffible, it will be fufficient for me to remark that I have employed, for the northern part of Egypt, the particular chart of Lake Menzaleh, which an able officer of artillery, the General of Division Andréoffy, inspector-general of the corps of artillery, has very recently published, at the end of two excellent memoirs, refpecting fome points of Lower Egypt *.

"Nor to this alone has the affiftance which I have received from General

*Mémoire fur le Lac Menzaleh, d'après la Reconnoiffance fait en Vendé miaire, an 7. Mémoire fur la Vallée des Lacs de Natron, et celle du Fleuve fans Eau, d'après la Reconnoiffance fait les 4, 5, 6, 7, et 8 Pluviofe, an 7.—Paris, Didot aîné, an 8."

Andréofly

Andréoffy been confined; he has been fo kind as to communicate to me, and to permit me to add to my chart the manufcript plan, which he him elf took of the part of the coaft of Egypt comprehended between Damietta and Roffetta; fo that this extent of the fhores of the Mediterranean, hitherto thrown on our charts, as at random, and with which it never was more important to us to be well acquainted, is that which is traced with the greateft exactnefs and precifion; thanks to the attention of a diftinguifhed foldier, who, amid the terrible agitations of war, has found means to fix in the camp the timid fciences, scared by the din of arms, and to join to the dazzling, but enfanguined laurels of valour, the more modeft, but fruitful olive, with which they encircle the brow of those who welcome them, and whom they are fond of loading with favours." P. xxxi.

EXTRACTS.

GRASSHOPPERS OR LOCUSTS.

"ENDEAVOURS have been made to explain how infects, winged indeed, but little capable of a fight of long duration, could appear all at once, like a devaftating storm, on lands furrounded by the fea. Naturalifts have imagined that grafshoppers, incapable of croffing a large space of fea, repaired to Cyprus with the veffels from Syria, in which they kept themselves concealed during the voyage; but it would be difficult, on this hypothefis, to explain the fudden appearance of thefe living clouds in certain years, while in others none of them are to be feen. On the other hand, muft not navigators per ceive this prodigious multitude of frangers; and could it be fuppofed that they would confent to carry them obligingly into countries where fcarcity and defolation would land with them? Befides, there is a certain fact, which removes the idea of grafshoppers getting on thipboard; this is, that the fea-fhores, on the coaft of Cyprus, are fometimes covered, and infected to a great diftance, with their

dead bodies floating on the furface of the waters; and thefe vaft wrecks imply a paffage more perilous than a voyage on board fhip. It cannot therefore be doubted that these swarms of grafs hoppers arrive from the continent, where, according to the opinion of M. Haffelquitz, they must be formed in the midft of the deferts of Arabia, whence they depart, fupported and impelled by the winds..

"The moft eaftern point of the ifland of Cyprus, Cape Sant Andrea, being fcarcely diftant from the coaft of Syria more than from twenty to twen ty-five leagues, a gale of wind may easily carry thither light infects, which aflift themfelves with their wings, and poffefs much ftrength and agility. It is pofitively known that roving grafs hoppers have croffed feas wider than this ftrait. M. Niebuhr mentions, that in the month of November 1762, a prodigious quantity of grafshoppers fell in the environs of Dsjidda, a town of Arabia, on the borders of the Red Sea, after having croffed that fea, which, in this place, is upwards of fifty leagues in width; a great many perished, indeed, in the paflage; which did not prevent the reft from ipreading themfelves over the fields in inconceivable numbers. I have myfeif keen grafshoppers alight on a veffel, in a voyage along the west coast of Africa, abreast of Cape Blanco, and out of fight of all land. We could not ima gine that thefe infects had come on board with us; they arrived from the eaft, and were of a fpecies unknown in France; every part of them was of a pale yellow, or filemot colour, They who do not content themfelves with ftudying Nature in books or in colleetions, and who vifit with fome attention the immenfe galleries which the has herself arranged with admirable order, for the purpose of making them an eternal fubject of contemplation; they, I fay, may have remarked that the large green grafhopper of our meadows raifes itfelf with rapidity to a height fomewhat confiderable, and fupports itfelf tor fome time in the air, when the weather is warm, the

*Note. Throughout Chapter III. and likewife in Chapter XXXVIII. we have conftantly rendered the word jauterelles by grajshoppers, which, as is well known, are winged infects of a very devouring nature; but, on reconfideration, we are much inclined to think that the author means locuffs, from the length of the flights which he describes these infects to have taken."

By

ky ferene, and the atmosphere free from humidity: from this we may judge, that the wandering species, probably more vigorous, as well as more accuftomed to travelling, may, in warm and dry climates, undertake long paffages in clofe columns, and, favoured by the winds, venture to crofs gulfs and ftraits.

"And the frightful havock of thefe numberlefs phalanxes of devouring infects is not always confined to the fertile plains of the Eaft; they are feen, more rarely it is true, but with the fame fury, to ftrip the fields of more weftern countries of their harvests, of their verdure, to change in an inftant the rich and smiling carpet of fecundity into a hideous fcene of nakednefs and devaftation; and, after having deprived the earth of her drefs, men of the fruit of their labours and of their means of fubfiftence, to finish by infecting the air with their carcates heaped up, and by spreading contagion and death. Who knows whether this be not one of the principal caufes of the melancholy and cruel permanence of the plague in the Eaft?

"France herfelf has not been exempt from the misfortunes produced by these prodigious and formidable bodies, carrying in their train confternation and want. In the year 1784, a vaft fwarm of thefe infects, coming from the eaft, croffed France, devoured every thing on their paffage, and fell into the British Channel Mezerai mentions with great detail another irruption of grafshoppers, which deprived the fouth of France of its harvefts, of its vegetables, and of its trefoil. That hiftorian informs us, that the grafshoppers which efcaped from the birds, depofited fuch a quantity of eggs on the ground, particularly in the fandy fpots, that it was thought neceflary to caufe them to be picked up in order to deftroy them. They were found in heaps, and in this manner were collected upwards of three thousand quintals, which were burnt or thrown into the Rhone. On calculating the number of infects that were to be hatched by these maffes of eggs, it was found, by a very low eftimate, that there was 1,750,000 to the quin

tal, which might give, for the total, 550,000,000,000 of grafshoppers eggs, that would have been hatched the fol lowing year. On other occafions a reward was fet on graf hoppers; in 1767, two fous a pound were paid for them in fome parts of Languedoc; in 1787, only one fou was given; and yet it was known, by the examination of the accounts of the little community of Saint Gilles, that eleven or twelve hundred quintals of them had been de ftroyed on its territory alone †.” P. 40.

CYPRUS WINE.

"ONE of the productions which the Cypriots rear with the greatest attention, and which has not ceafed to be to them an advantageous branch of trade, although, like every other, it has felt the violence and want of reflection of the government, is the famous wine which is yielded them by vines with twifting and creeping stems, and large and delicious fruit. The best vines, a natural temple, dear to Bacchus, whence flows this yellowish, rich, and perfumed wine, which conftitutes the delight and luxury of our tables, occupy a diftrict called the Commandery, because it made a part of the great commandery of the Templars and of the knights of Malta. It is comprised between Mount Olympus and the towns of Limaffol and Paphos. Although all the wines of Cyprus come not from this diftrict, they do not the lefs, on that account, bear, in trade, the name of the wines of the commandery, in order to enhance their value. Under that name is found fome very common, and at a very low price. I have purchased at Alexandria fome of this pretended wine of the commandery, at ten parats, or a little more than twelve fous the dame-jeanne*; it was new, very light, and had no refemblance in point of flavour to the diftinguished Cyprus wine. From all parts of the island the wines are collected at Larnica, where they are kept till they are shipped; but they want age in order to acquire the excellent qualities which caufe them to be fo much in request. The Grecks of Cyprus, from a very ancient cuftom, when

"See the Notice des Infectes de la France réputés venimeux; par M. Amoureux Fils, Médecin de Montpelier, 1789, introduction, page 122 and following." "A glass veffel containing about three gallons English measure." 4 B

VOL. V.-No. LII.

they

they have a child born, bury large yeffels filled with wine, and clofely ftopped; thefe are not taken out of the ground but for the marriage of that fame child. This wine, which might be called family-wine, fince it ferves to celebrate its most happy events, preferved fecure from the impreffions of the air, becomes exquifite an being taken out of the earth, and a real treafure to a delicate palate. Among per fons in eafy circumftances, the quantity of wine buried is feldom confumed in marriage festivals, and a part is fold to Europeans, who have not always the opportunity of procuring any fo good.

"Cyprus wine is conveyed to Eus rope, either in cafks, or in those large glafs bottles, covered with ruth or wicker, which are called dames-jeannes. This latter method would be preferable, the wine keeping better in glafs veffels, if, on the other hand, the lofs of it were not to be feared, from the danger of breaking the dames-jeannes in the courfe of a rather long voyage. When Cyprus wine is fhipped in cafks, and the price is not confidered in order to have that of the best quality, the purchaser procures cafks in which has been left a certain quantity of lees, which have the property of improving the wine; accordingly the cafks, thus provided with lees, fell four times dearer than those which are deftitute of them.

"A modern author, who has written his travels to the Levant, ftruck with the excellence of the Cyprus wines, is aftonished that the merchants of Europe have not tried to convey thither plants of thefe celebrated vines. He takes the trouble of describing minute ly the precautions neceffary to be obferved for removing thefe plants, in fuch a manner that they might again ftrikein the new ground appropriated to them. It certainly is not in this that the difficulty confifts; living plants are brought to Europe from diftances much more confiderable. It is even well known that Francis I. had procured from Cyprus a fufficient quantity of vine plants for covering fifty arpens or French acres at Fontainebleau. We are ignorant what is become of these yines, planted at fo great an expenfe;

and we fhould be greatly mistaken to attribute to them the good quality and the reputation which the fuperior white grapes of Fontainebleau owe only to their manner of being planted and cultivated, and to the care bestowed on them. But the real difficulty, and it is infurmountable, is to meet with the fame foil, the fame exposure, the fame climate, the fame degrees of temperature, in a word, to make Cyprus wine elsewhere than in Cyprus." P.44.

UNHAPPY SITUATION OF THE

GREEKS.

"THE fate of the Greeks, inhabit, ants of the small islands of the Archipe lago, abandoned to themfelves, and who feemed to be fought only to be tormented and plundered, was truly deplorable. If a Turkish ship, or the fmalleft galiot belonging to that nation, puts into one of these iflands, the commander becomes its defpot; the chiefs of the town or village haften to kifs his hand and receive his commands. He difpofes of every thing, caufes to be delivered to him the provifions and all the articles of which he ftands in need, impofes labours on the men, fets up for fupreme judge, decides controverfies, fettles quarrels, condemns to fines, which must be paid immediately, orders the bastinado, on the fole of the feet, to be applied as he thinks proper; in fhort, his ftay fpreads terror and confternation. Did a Maltese privateer appear in her turn, nearly the fame fcenes of the abuse and harthnefs of power and of debasement were reprefented; the fame compliments, the fame prefents, the fame tasks, the fame arbitrary acts, the fame humiliations, and fometimes even ill ufage.

"One of the obligations of rigour impofed on these unfortunate Greeks, was, as foon as a Maltefe or Turkish veffel caft anchor in their harbour, to ftation perfons to look out on the most elevated points, in order to discover at a diftance fhips at fea, to give notice of their approach, and to skreen a more troublefome gueft from the danger of being furprised by his enemy. G*** had juft arrived in the road of

"Voyages dans l'Ile de Chypre, la Syrie, et la Palefline, par M. l'Abbé Mariti tranflated from the Italian, vol. i. page 225,"

[ocr errors]

Argentiera }

Argentiera; watches had been placed, according to cuftom, at the top of towers built on fome eminences which overlook the village on every fide; the captain of the privateer was on fhore with part of his crew, when the veffel was feen to enter the road. The negligence of the fentinel pofted on the fide from which the veffel came, was cruelly punished. G*** ordered his houfe to be demolished, and forbad that, as long as he fhould live, any one fhould prefume to build on the fame fpot. The order was executed in every point, and, feveral years after, I faw the ruins of a habitation of a whole family, overrun by brambles and ferpents, and ftill ftruck by the curfe of a plundering adventurer.

"I was witnefs of the fang froid of this fame Captain G***, on another occafion, where he had like to have pronounced again the fatal anathema against another house in the village of Argentiera. He had landed there with ten men well armed; and while the latter were difperfed among the inhabitants, whom they laid under contribution, he dined at the houfe of the French agent, where I was. In the middle of dinner, his people ran in, quite fcared, to announce to him that a veffel was coming into the road, and that she had the appearance of an enemy. G***, without rifing from his feat or being in the leaft difconcerted, ordered them to bring to him the épitropo, a fort of mayor or fyndic. The latter being arrived, G*** asked him what man of his village he had placed to look out at fuch a tower? And, on receiving his anfwer, he enjoined him to lay hold of that man, and bring him into his prefence. This order, being given in a tone to exact prompt and unqualified obedience, he rofe from table, and turning to wards his people, faid to them: Come, my lads, let us march, and < prepare to attack and exterminate 'thofe dogs of Turks!' He did not go far, because it turned out that the vessel arrived was a Ragufan trader; but he was not difpofed, on that account, to punish lefs cruelly the Greek who had neglected to give notice of the approach of this veffel; and it was

not without great difficulty that the agent and I, by dint of earnest folicitations, fucceeded in obtaining his pardon. A few days after, G*** was fo fortunate as to furprise a caravel coming from Alexandria, richly laden, having on board the annual tribute which Egypt paid to the Grand Signior. A prize of this importance enfured the fortune of the captors; and I know not whether G***, who already lived at Malta in eafy circumftances, covered with years and wounds, having been a long time in flavery among the Turks, has been able to make up his mind to pass the remainder of his life in tranquillity, and to expiate, by acts of beneficence and the exercife of the virtues, a career of diforder and pillage." P. 153.

ACCOUNT OF THE SUDDEN APPEAR ANCE OF A NEW ISLAND IN 1707. "IT is well known that Santorin, formerly Thera, and more anciently Callifta, a word which fignifies the Handfome, has experienced fingular changes from the effect of fubterraneous fires. Emerged from the bofom of the fea, it was afterwards partly fwallowed up in the year 237 before the Chriftian era, and separated from Therafia, a fmall ifland at this day called Afpronifi. The space contained between thofe two iflands, and at present filled by the fea, made, according to the well-founded opinion of a judicious obferver, a part of Thera, or the large ifland, which, at the time of this revolution, affumed the form of a crefcent. Indeed, the coaft of that gulf, compofed of steep rocks, black, calcined, and towering upwards of three hundred feet above the level of the sea, appears to be the edge of an enormous crater, the bottom of which has never been fathomed.

"Several other revolutions happened fucceffively in the fame place; and the terrifying fcenes of the great convul fions of nature have been renewed there repeatedly. An earthquake was felt forty years after the islands of Thera and Therafia were separated. The waters boiled up, and a new island rofe above the fea, and all at once

*"M. De Choifeul-Gouffier, Voyage Pittorefque de Grèce, vol. i. pages 322

and 323

[ocr errors]
[blocks in formation]
« PreviousContinue »