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FROM BAKEL TO TAGA'NET.

707

5th. Wanja, or Jenúr, as you choose, both of them being settlements of Arabs, and close to each other. Here live the Tagát, the Idáw el Hassan, the Welád Biyéri, and the Jéjeba, the food of these people consisting of sour milk, dhurra, and fruits. From this spot you obtain a view of the mountains of Tagánet and Asába.

6th. Marde, a well with an encampment of the same tribes as Wanja. The country is hilly and rich in herbage, the mountains or vales being adorned with plenty of trees.

7th. Téri, a pool of stagnant water in the rainy season, while during the dry season only a well is to be found here. The country rather hilly.

8th. A'sherám, a settlement of different tribes. The mountains of Tagánet seem

to be quite near.

9th. Tisílit Akerárer, a wádí in a mountainous tract, with scattered groups of tents inhabited by Arabs.

10th. Dwenki, a mountain with a pool of stagnant water at its foot, but only in the rainy season; during the dry season only a well is found.

11th. Yogbáshi, a mountain with temporary inhabitants. Few trees.

12th. Nufni, a mountain pass, "the entrance or gate of Tagánet," the mountains being very high.

From Nufni to Kasr el Barka is a march of two days.

MM. Route from Bakel to the frontier of Tagánet by way of Asába.

1st day. Samba-rainji, a considerable place inhabited by Aswánek, and situated in a level tract inclosed between the foot of the mountains and the river.

2d. Hasi Weled 'Alí Bába, a well lying in the vale or depression inclosed between the two mountain ranges along which your road winds. Kómandó, a considerable Aswánek village, lies on a more easterly road.

3d. Hasi Shagár, another well, with a camp of Arabs in the dry season. 4th. Tektáke, as the place is called by the Arabs, or Bú-túmke, as it is called by the Aswánek and Fullán or Fulbe, the population consisting chiefly of Aswánek. The village lies in the midst of the mountains; the houses are built of clay, and a few gardens are cultivated in the neighborhood, for although there is no running stream, water is said to be found at the depth of only one foot under ground, and the mountains, or "gidé," as they are called in Aswánek, are full of trees. The country nominally under the dominion of Fúta.

5th. Jibáli, or, as the name is pronounced by the Arabs, Jubelli, a village situated in the midst of the mountains, at times inhabited, at others deserted. On pursuing your road you cross a mountain ridge, and then wind along a valley. The mountains contain excellent rock for grindstones, shaped in quadrangular forms, and like the stone found in the mountains near Mekka.

6th. Búnga, an Aswánek village surrounded by steep rocks; some gardens are cultivated.

7th. Moila, an Aswánek village. The road keeps always in the mountainous

tract.

8th. Samma, an Aswánek village.

9th. Tattoputti, formerly a village, but at present deserted.

10th. Wákuré, as it is called by the Fullán, or Woló by the natives, a large place situated in a deep valley or irregular vale, the rivulet Gallúla flowing at no great distance toward the W. from the place.

11th. Babbu, a village in a mountainous tract.

12th. Kachukoróne, another village.

13th. Gelléil.

14th. Garáf Bafál, situated in the midst of the mountains, and being the temporary abode of different wandering tribes.

15th. Fúmo-báche, another settlement of that kind.

16th. Fúmo-láwel, the same.

17th. Nebék, a place of the same nature; mountainous tract continues.

18th. A'wenet A'r, the beginning of Tagánet, the southeastern corner of which is here hemmed in by the mountains of Asába.

Asába, according to this informant, is a broad mountain range, diverging as a northern branch from the main range, the general direction of which is toward Bundu, from which country it is separated by the river. The Fulbe call this mountainous tract "Hairi-n-gar," and the Aswánek call it Gidé.

NN. Route from Hamda-Alláhi, the present capital of Másina, to Meshíla, and thence to Kahaide, according to Háj Ibrahim; route rather winding, and to be controlled by other routes which I have already given.

1st day. Kunna (see above), a small town, but an important market-place, situated originally on the western bank of the Mayo balléo, on an island in the Dhiúliba, inclosed by the Máyo balléo, "the blue river," and the Mayo dhannéo, or "the white river," but at present built on the eastern shore of the Mayo balléo. What is very remarkable, it is said to be inhabited by Songhay. A short march of three hours.

2d. Nukuma, a place or district situated on the island, or "rúde," inclosed by the two branches of the river. Here in the beginning of his career resided Mohammed Lebbo. There seem to be several hamlets, one of which is called Sébbera. 3d. Tummay, still on the island or rúde.

4th. Sáre-dína, a large place, and evidently one of the first towns converted to Islám in these regions, situated on the western bank of the Mayo dhannéo, which you cross here, at half a day's distance E. N. E. of the ancient town Zágha or Jáka. Inhabitants Songhay.

5th. Tógoró, a group of villages or hamlets, inhabited by the Fullán conquerors. In Tógoró the road divides, one branch leading N.E. in two short days to Tenéngu, the original capital of Másina, passing by Tumúra, a large district inhabited by Fulbe.*

6th. Somógirí, a considerable place inhabited by Bámbara of the country.

7th. Diggíseré, an important Bambara town at some miles distance S.W. from Tenéngu, the road leading to which place, and from thence to Yá-saláme, whither a person may also proceed from Diggíseré (see above), informant has left on his right. Country open, adorned with zizyphus.

8th. Fetokóle, a small place. The country rich in trees, the principal produce consisting in rice and cotton.

9th. Káre, a Bámbara town, governed by an officer of the name of Búgoní. The country hereabout rich in cattle and camels, but the wells are said to have an enormous depth, according to informant, not less than sixty fathoms. Cotton strips are the standard currency of the market.

14th. Sókoló, a town inhabited by Bámbara people, but belonging to Másina. Between the two stations you traverse for five days an open country inhabited by Arab tribes, as the Welád S'aíd, the Welád 'Alúsh, and the Gelágema, and rich in elephants, giraffes, and buffaloes, abundance of water being found in stagnant pools. On the second day of this march you leave the town of Kála on your left.

19th. Aláso or Alássa, a place belonging to Baghena, and inhabited by the Welád 'Omrán. The country which you traverse is thickly covered with trees, and is the abode of the Nimádi, a wild set of people, who are stated by my informant to possess nothing but dogs, with which they hunt the large antelope called "bakr el wahesh" by the Arabs. (The name "Nimádi" is probably not the real name of these people.) You sleep four nights in the open country.

22d. Kabúde, a well with temporary settlers. Pass two nights in the open country without a dwelling.

26th. Mu-sáweli, a considerable place of Bághena. You pass on your march several other places, the names of which informant does not remember.

27th. Dúguní, a middle-sized town.

28th. Debámpa, a large town of Bághena. All the houses are built of clay. 29th. Toróngu, another place of importance.

30th. Tíndi, a small town about seven days N.W. from Kolí, another town of Bághena. Tíndi is inhabited by Aswánek or Swanínki.

31st. Khat e' dem, a temporary dwelling-place of Arabs belonging to the tribes of the Welád Mohammed, the Funti, and the Henún, with the Sheikh Mohammed Fadhel, son of the protector Mukhtár. All the dwellings consist of tents of camels' hair. Khat e' dem forms the beginning of the district called El Hódh.

33d. Tokko, a large pool of stagnant water, round which there is an encampment of Arabs.

35th. Derís, a dwelling-place of the "White Arabs," as my informant calls them. Many tribes are wandering hereabout; but almost all the towns are at present in

An interesting account of this district is given in Hodgson's "Notes on North Africa," p. 70, from the information of a slave in the United States.

FROM MESHI'LA TO KAHAIDE.

709

the hands of the Fulbe or Fullán. N'amá, the small town mentioned above as having been built by the Shurfa, is three days E. a little N. from Derís.

37th. Nwal, a well with an encampment of Arabs.

42d. Tádirt, a well with tents of the same.

47th. Líbe, a well of the same character.

50th. Mesíla, a spring of running water at the foot of the kódia which surrounds El Hódh. The water of Mesíla is said to run toward the south.

N.B.-It must be borne in mind in laying down this route that my informant, a Pullo, wished to avoid the seats of the Welád Mebárek, and therefore followed in his generally northerly direction a very roundabout way.

56th. Afulle, or rather an open Arab village in the district so named, the mountainous country having been entered on the fifty-second day. Afúlle borders on Kaarta, and its eastern part is inhabited by Bámbara, but the northern portion is inhabited by the following Arab tribes: the Fáta, the Welád e' Násr, the Elkwézi or Lighwézi, the Askír, the Welád Bóde, and by two tribes of the Zuwaye or Merábetín, viz., the Tenwaijió and the Lághelél. Some of the divisions of these tribes are settled in the mountains, while others live in the plain called El Khénashish, rich in pasture-grounds, between which and the mountains there is a small town called Tugguba.

59th. Tiñírgi, a well with Arab settlers. Country mountainous.

62d. Ummat el adhám, a well. The last three days no water is found along the road, while in general, even in the tract intervening between two stations marked by my informant, watering-places are occasionally met with.

67th. Kawál, a lively spring of water. Country mountainous.

73d. Túgguba, an open village inhabited by Arabs. Many springs in the mountains.

76th. Waya, another Arab village.

78th. Meshíla, called by my informant "rás el Fúta," as the beginning of Fúta (at least in former times).

I now give the route from Meshíla to Kahaide:

1st day. Samóga, a mountain belonging to the mountainous district Asába. 2d. Wákoré, a village inhabited by Aswánek, but subjected to Fúta as well as to the Zenágha Arabs, to whom they pay tribute.

3d. Galúla, a village inhabited by Aswánek, and dependent upon Wákoré. It is situated at the foot of a mountain, from the top of which a brook of living water rushes down. This water-course is called Galúla, like the village, and is said to be full of fish.

4th. Dé il Kurbán, an Arab settlement on a wádí, with running water during the rainy season, which is said to flow into the Senegal. Country not under cultivation.

5th. Jumlaniye, another dwelling-place of the Zenágha on the same wádí. 6th. Wau Sámberlám, a high mountain ridge extending toward Bundu.

7th. Gilte, another locality in the same ridge. The country not under cultivation, and only temporarily inhabited after the rains.

8th. Tashót, a wádí with water in the rainy season. No cultivation.

9th. Bú-'Amúd, an open tract of country, the pasture-grounds for the cattle of the Fullán.

10th. Tara-múl, a locality on the same wádí. The country full of the large species of antelopes, giraffes, elephants, and buffaloes, and richly clad with large trees. 11th. Shilliyul, the same wádí richly adorned with trees. The country nearly level, only broken by a few hills. Abundance of cattle.

12th. Sugurére, a Fullán village. Country hilly.

13th. Bailabúbi, on the same wádí. The country hilly; nothing but pasturegrounds.

14th. Píttangál, another settlement of Fullán shepherds.

15th. Bogilchéle, a place of the same description. At this point the Gurgul balléo, or black Gurgul, a small water-course coming from the N.Ê. in the direction of Gallula, joins the Gurgul dhannéo, running from Akerére in Tagánet, the two forming henceforward a considerable water-course, at least during the rainy season. According to this informant, the small craft from Kahaide can navigate this creek, but of such communication the French accounts of the Senegal give no indication.

16th. Maktachúchi, or, as the spot is called in the Fulfulde language, Lumbírde

chútinkóbe, a large pool of stagnant water, with river-horses, and surrounded by fine pasture-grounds. A section of the Limtúna are said to cultivate this ground. 17th. Rak Hilhébe, the plain of Hilhébe; property of the Brákena.

18th. Kerfát, the fields of Kahaide.

19th. Kahaide, on the W. side of a great bend of the Senegal. On your road you pass the large village Jéri-lúmburí.

I will here add a list of the chief divisions of Fúta, including the Wolof country, such as I'brahím communicated them to me: Lóre, Damga, Ferló, Nange-hóre, the centre of Futa, Toró, Walbrek, Ndér, U'l, Niyán, Bachár, Kimínta, Ballindúngu Sálu, Jolóf, Kayór.

00. From Meshila to Bakel. Very short marches.

1st day. Samba-sandíggi, a wádí in the wilderness, with Arab settlers. 2d. Dáwodá, a wádí.

3d. Nakhele, settlement of Sídi Makhmúd, of the Zenágha.

4th. Dundumúlli; few settlers.

5th. Sélefél, village of Fulbe.

6th. Tektáket, all along the valley Mesíla or Meshíla, which runs to the Senegal. 7th. Yóra, village or town of Fulbe, Aswánek, and Arabs dwelling together. 8th. Abólli, a hamlet of Arabs, Welád Wési, and Fullán Rungabe, under the chiefs 'Omár Weled Bú-Séfi. Wádi Mangol. Few mountains.

9th. Swéna, a hamlet of Fulbe, with a few Arabs.

10th. Nahál; one day E. of the town Butti.

11th. Báyajám, a small hamlet of Fulbe Rungabe and Hel Módin Alla.

12th. Tíshi, small hamlet.

13th. Melge, large village inhabited by Fulbe and Hel Módin Alla.

14th. Village of Chermo-Makkam, who died some time before, when his son, Baidal Chermo succeeded him.

15th. Dár Saláme, now Aswánek, formerly Hel Módin Alla.

16th. Kídibíllo, a small hamlet. Aswánek.

17th. Nénechó. Aswánek.

18th. Waigílle, a middle-sized place of Aswánek. Country level, small hills, many trees, especially the kuddi. Always along the valley Mangol or Mesíla.

19th. Kábu, large place of Aswánek, on the point where the Mesíla joins the Senegal.

20th. Láni, considerable place of Aswánek, on the S. side of the river, which you

cross.

21st. Kotéra, a village of Aswánek close to Senegal.

22d. Gúchubel (Gútubé of the French), the point where the Falémé joins the Senegal. On the opposite side lies Yogúnturó.

23d. Arúndu, a village of Aswánek, having crossed the Falémé.

24th. Yáferé, on the Senegal.

25th. Golme, Aswánek under Bundu.

26th. Guri 'l haire, Aswánek.

27th. Bakel.

Even beyond Bakel, toward Kahaide, the seats of the Aswánek, Cheddo, or Wákoré extend as far as the isolated mountain Waunde, which lies on the N.É. shore, and that is evidently the reason of this tract on the N. bank of the Senegal being called Gángara or Wángara, the country of the Wákoré.

N.B.-The routes from Wadán and I'jil to Sakiet el Hamrah, of which I have collected an itinerary, I refrain from communicating, as they have been in some measure superseded by Panet's route. (Revue Coloniale, 1851.)

ARAB TRIBES IN BA'GHENA.

711

APPENDIX XI.

LIST OF THE ARAB OR MOORISH TRIBES SCATTERED OVER THE WESTERN PART OF THE DESERT, ACCORDING TO THE DISTRICTS OR NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE DESERT IN WHICH THEY ARE SETTLED.

The original inhabitants of these regions, at least since the middle of the eighth century of our era, were the Berbers, especially the Zenágha, or Senhája; but these tribes, since the end of the fifteenth century, it would seem, have been pushed back and partly conquered by the Arab tribes to the south of Morocco and Algeria, who either intermingled with them or reduced them to a degraded position. Thus there are especially four classes of tribes: the free warlike tribes, 'Aráb, or Harár; the Zuwaye, or peaceable tribes; the Khóddemán, or Lahme, identical in the southwestern quarter with the Zenágha, the degraded tribes; and the Hárratín, or the mixed stock. The characteristic feature of these Moorish tribes is the guffa, or full tuft of hair; that of the Zenágha the peculiar fashion of wearing the hair called gatáya, as they cut the hair on both sides of the head, and leave nothing but a crest on the crown, from whence a single tress hangs down sometimes to their very feet, or they tie the ends round their waist.

The supposed ancestor of the Moorish tribes is Odé ben Hassan ben A'kil, of the tribe of the Rátafán, who is supposed to have come from Egypt.

I. ARAB TRIBES IN BAGHENA.

The Welád Mebárek (sing. Mebárki), divided into the following sections: A hel 'Omár Welád 'Alí, A'hel Hennum (e' Shiúkh).

Fáta, separated into the following divisions: Welád Monún, Welád Dokhanán, A'hel Bu Séf.

Fúnti, separated into the following divisions: Welád Hammu el kohol, A ́hel Hammu el biadh, A ́hel Múmmu, A ́hel Sídi I'brahím, Welád Zenághi, A ́hel 'Omár Shemáti.

The following tribes are in a state of dependence upon them, or are, as it is called, their lahme, or their khóddemán: Idábuk, Ifoléden, A'hel 'Abd el Wahed, El Hárretín (no proper name), El Mehajeríyín, these only partly degraded, Yadás; Welád el 'Alía, A'hel A'hmed Hennún, whose khóddemán are the following tribes: El Rowasil, Welád Sálem, Basím, I'shalán, Welád Bille (the brethren of the Welád Bílle in Tishít, formerly Arabs, that is to say, free independent Arabs, but at present khóddemán, paying however only the medáriye, and not the keráma), El 'Abedát, A'hel Udéka.

Next to the large group of the Welád Mebárek are the Welád Mazuk, living in the ksúr together with the Welád 'Omár.

Then the E'rmetát and the Náj; while in a degraded state are El Shebahín and El Habásha.

This is the place to mention a particular group or confederation of warlike tribes called "El Imgháfera," or Megháfera, and consisting of the Welád el 'Alía, Fáta, Abedát, Welád Mazúk, A ́hel e' Zenághi, A ́hel 'Omár Shemáti.

1a. ZUWAYE, OR MERÁBETÍN, INn bághena.

The Teghdáust, a mixed tribe, but considered as Arabs: the Edésan, Gelágema, Idú Belál in Baghena as well as in El Hódh, Tafulálet, said to have nothing in common with Tafilélet.

Gesíma, living partly in Bághena partly in El Hódh, and divided into the following sections: Welád Táleb, Idáw-'Esh, Welád 'Abd el Melek, Ténagít, El Arusíyín (a tribe very powerful in ancient times, to whom belonged Shenán el Arúsi, the famous despot of Waláta and Tezúght), E' Nwazír, A ́hel Táleb Mohammed.

Tenwaijío, who collect the gum and bring it to the European settlements, separated into the following divisions: A'hel Yíntit, Ijáj Burke, A'hel Bábá, A ́hel Ibrahim e' Shiukh (held in great veneration).

These four divisions live in Bághena, while the two following are scattered over the district called Ergebe, where the Tenwaijío are very numerous: Welád Delém ma intis (sic), Welád Bú Mohammed.

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