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5. Quarters built for the accommodation of strangers.

4. My own quarters.

6. Sánia," or plantation, belonging to the sherif el Fási.

7. Hamlet, zangó," belonging to A'nnur, the chief of the Kél-owi.

8. "Zangó" belonging to Lúsú, the chief of the Kél-azanéres.

9. "Zangó" belonging to some other chiefs among the Tawárek.

being full of these desert traders, who during their leisure hours endeavored to make themselves as merry as possible with music and dancing. This gave me an opportunity of seeing again my friend, the old chief of Tintéllust, who, however, in consequence of the measures adopted toward him by Mr. Richardson, behaved rather coolly toward me, although I did not fail to make him a small present.

Being most anxious to complete my scientific labors and researches in regard to Bórnu, and to send home as much of my journal as possible, in order not to expose it to any risk, I staid most of the time in my quarters, which I had comfortably fitted up with a good supply of "síggedí" or coarse reed mats, taking only now and then, in the afternoon, a ride on horseback either round the town or into the large well-wooded valley which stretches along from N.W. to S.E., at some distance from the town, to

PECUNIARY SUPPLIES.

75

the N.E. Once I took a longer ride, to a village about eight miles S.S.E., situated on an eminence with a vale at its foot, fringed with dúm palms and rich in saltpetre.

On the 20th of January, 1853, I received from the hands of the Arab Mohammed el 'Akerút, whom I have had occasion to mention previously,* a valuable consignment, consisting of one thousand dollars in specie,† which were packed very cleverly in two boxes of sugar, so that scarcely any body became aware that I had received money, and the messenger seemed well deserving of a present equal to his stipulated salary; but I received no letters on this occasion. I had also expected to be able to replace here such of my instruments as had been spoiled or broken by new ones; but I was entirely disappointed in this respect, and hence, in my farther journey, my observations regarding elevation and temperature are rather defective.

I then finished my purchases, amounting altogether to the value of 775,000 kurdí, of all sorts of articles which I expected would be useful on my farther proceedings, such as red common ber-. núses, white turbans, looking-glasses, cloves, razors, chaplets, and a number of other things, for which I had at the time the best opportunity of purchasing, as all Arab and European merchandise, after the arrival of the káffala, was rather cheap. Thus I prepared for my setting out for the west; for although I would gladly have waited a few days longer, in order to receive the other parcel, consisting of a box with English ironware and four hund red dollars, which was on the road for me by way of Kúkawa, and which, as I have stated before, had been intrusted, in Fezzán, to a Tebú merchant, it was too essential for the success of my enterprise that I should arrive in Kátsena before the Góberáwa set out on a warlike expedition against that province, for which they were then preparing on a grand scale. It was thus that the parcel above-mentioned, which, in conformity with my arrangements, was sent after me to Zínder by the vizier, and which arrived only a few days after I had left that place, remained there in the hands of the sherif el Fási, and, on his being assassinated in the revolution of 1854, and his house plundered, fell into the hands of the slaves of the usurper 'Abd e' Rahmán.

* See vol. i., p. 166.

Unfortunately, they were not all Spanish or Mexican dollars; but there were among the number forty pieces of five francs, and more than one hundred Turkish mejidíye.

CHAPTER LV.

DEPARTURE FROM ZI'NDER. THE BORDER REGION BETWEEN THE BO'RNU AND THE FULFULDE EMPIRES.-SECOND STAY IN KA'TSENA.

Sunday, January 30th, 1853. I left the capital of the westernmost province of the Bórnu empire in the best spirits, having at length succeeded, during my prolonged stay there, in getting rid of the disease in my feet, which had annoyed me ever since my return from Bagírmi to Kúkawa. I had, moreover, strengthened my little caravan by two very excellent camels, which I had bought here; and I was now provided with a sufficient supply of money, stores, and presents, the total value of which exceeded two thousand dollars, and which seemed to guarantee success to my undertaking, at least in a pecuniary point of view, and gave me confidence once more to try my fortune with the Fúlbe, my first dealings with whom had not been very promising. However, the road before me was any thing but safe, as I had again to traverse with my valuable property that border district intermediate between the independent Hausáwa and the Fúlbe, which is the scene of uninterrupted warfare and violence, and, unfortunately, there was no caravan at the time; but, nevertheless, the most intelligent men in the place were of opinion that this route, by way of Gazáwa, was safer than that by Dáura, the unscrupulous governor of the latter province, under cover of his authority, which could not be withstood with a high hand, being apparently more to be feared than the highway robbers in the border wilderness, who, by watchfulness and good arms, might be kept at a respectful distance. But altogether this was a rather unfortunate circumstance for me, as I cherished the ardent desire of visiting the town of Dáura, which, as I have explained on a former occasion, seems to have been the oldest settlement of the Hausa tribe, who appear to have been, from their origin, nearly related to the Berber family, the Díggera, a section of that nation, being formerly entirely predominant in the territory of Dáura. At that time, however, I entertained the hope that, on my return from the west, I might be enabled to visit the latter place, but circumstances prevented me from carrying out my design.

TY'RMENI'.—IKAʼZKEZAN.

77

The whole country which we traversed on our way westward, besides being richly studded with fixed dwelling-places, was full of parties of A'sbenáwa salt-traders, partly moving on, partly encamped, and having their merchandise carefully protected by fences of corn-stalks. But, although these people greatly contributed to the animated character of the landscape, yet their presence by no means added to the security of the country, and altogether my order of march became now a very different one from what it had been. Throughout my march from Kúkawa to Zínder, with a few exceptions, it had been my custom to proceed far in advance of the camels, with my horsemen, so that I used to arrive at the camping-ground before the greatest heat of the day had set in; but, on account of the greater insecurity of the country, it now became necessary for me to pursue my march slowly, in company with my luggage train.

The ground along our track, as we proceeded from Zínder, was undulating, with ledges or small ridges and isolated masses of granite boulders starting forth here and there; but the country gradually improved, especially after we had passed a pond at the distance of about seven miles from the town, filling out a concavity or hollow, and fringed with wide-spreading trees and a fine plantation of cotton and tobacco, which were shaded by a few dúm palms. Thus we reached the village of Týrmení, lying at the border of a shallow vale, and surrounded with a strong stockade. Here we fell in with a numerous body of Ikázkezan, mustering, besides a great many on foot, twelve or thirteen men well mounted on horseback, and thinking themselves strong enough, in their independent spirit, to pursue a contraband road along the border district between Dáura and Kátsena, in order to avoid paying any customs to the potentates of either. But the restless governor of Dáura keeps a sharp look-out, and sometimes overtakes these daring smugglers.

Near the village of Dámbedá also, which we reached after a march of two miles from Týrmení, through a more hilly country, several divisions of the salt-caravan were encamped, and we chose our camping-ground near a troop of native traders, or fatáki. While we were pitching the tent, a Tárki or Amóshagh, mounted on horseback, came slowly up to us, apparently astonished at the peculiar character of the tent, which he seemed to recognize as an old acquaintance; but he was still more surprised when he recognized myself, for he was no other than Aghá Batúre, the son

of Ibrahím, from Selúfiyet, the chief instigator of the foray made against us at the time of entering A'ír or A'sben, by the border tribes of that country.

In the depression of the plain toward the south from our encampment, where all the moisture of the district collected, cotton was cultivated to a great extent, while adjoining the village, which lay close to a ridge of granite, a small field of tobacco was to be seen. A petty market, which was held here, enabled us to provide ourselves with grain, poultry, and red pepper, as we had forgotten to lay in a store of the latter article, which is indispensable to travelers in hot countries.

Monday, January 31st. The district through which we passed was densely inhabited, but it was rather scantily timbered, the ground being clad only with short underwood; detached hills were seen now and then; but after a march of about seven miles, the character of the country changed, kálgo appearing more frequently, while the soil consisted of deep sand. Toward the south the vegetation was richer, several Tawárek hamlets appearing in the distance. Thus we reached a large well, about thirteen fathoms deep and richly provided with water, where a large number of Búzawe, or Tawárek half-castes, of both sexes, were assembled; and I was agreeably surprised at the greater proof of ingenuity which I here observed, a young bull being employed in drawing up the water in a large leather bag containing a supply sufficient. for two horses, this being the only time during my travels in Negroland that I observed such a method of drawing up the water, which in general, even from the deepest wells, is procured by the labor of man alone. The young bull was led by a very pretty Amóshagh girl, to whom I made a present of a tin box with a looking-glass in it as a reward for her trouble, when she did not fail to thank me by a courtesy, and the expression of an amiable "agaishéka," "my best thanks." In the whole of this country a custom still prevails, dating from the period of the strength of the Bórnu empire, to the effect that the horses of the travelers must be watered at any well in precedence to the wants of the natives themselves.

The whole spectacle which this well exhibited was one of life and activity; and the interest of the scenery was farther increased by a dense grove of fine tamarind-trees which spread out on the south side of the path. I learned, on inquiry, that this district belongs to the territory of Tumtúmma, the governor of which is a

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