Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa: Being a Journal of an ... - Heinrich Barth - Google Books

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tour on account of hostile Army.-Kúlkadá.—Kúrayé.—Expeditionary Corps.—

Kurrefi and its Fortifications.-An agreeable Incident.-Unsafe District.-Town

of Zékka.-Desertion of Servant.-Dangerous Night's March.-Búnka.—Zýrmi.

-State of Zánfara.-Trade with Dodówa Cakes.-Dúchi.-Market of Badará-

wa.-The Zánfaráwa and Góberáwa.-Tribute of Kátsena.-First Rúdu.-San-

sanne 'Aísa.-Night's March through the Wilderness of Gúndumi.—Arrival in

Gáwasú.-First Meeting with 'Alíyu.-Kind Reception.-Presents, how received.

-Letter of Franchise.-Arrival at Wurnó ..
.Page 88

RESIDENCE IN WURNÓ.

Superior Position of the Fúlbe.—Their Origin and Intermixture with other Tribes.

-Different Nationalities absorbed by them.-Their Divisions.-Progress of the

Tribe from the West.-Fulbe in Sixteenth Century.-Rise of Sheikh 'Othman

the Reformer.-Sultan Bello.-Present State of the Empire.-My Quarters in

Wurnó.-General Character of Wurnó.-Particular Description.-Ground-plan

of Wurnó.-Unsafe State of the Province.-Dread of the Góberáwa.-Gloomy

Prospects for my Journey.-Occupation.-Aspect of the Country.-Captain Clap-

perton's Route.-Fine Valley of Bamúrna.-Excursion to Sókoto.-Appearance

of the Town.-The Syllebáwa and their Chief Hámedu.-Clapperton's Death.-

The Valley of Sókoto.-Ground-plan of Sókoto.-Return of the Sultan. -Mu-

sical Presents.-My Friend 'Abd el Káder of A'gades.-Literary Works of 'Abd

Alláhi and Bello.-Death of the Ruler of Másina.........

STATE OF INSECURITY ALONG THE MOST FREQUENTED HIGH ROAD.-GANDO.

Departure from Wurnó.-Leave Sókoto.-Heavy Rain.-Fields of Yams.—Bodín-

ga.- Dendi.-Shagáli.― Señína.—Character of Gando; Ground-plan.— The

Sultan Khalílu.-Difficult Transactions.-Ahmed Baba's History of Songhay.-

Climate of Gando.-Extent of Empire.........

THE PROVINCE OF KEBBI AND ITS RIVER. THE VALLEY OF FÓGHA.-REACH THE

Leave Gando.-Extensive Rice-grounds.-Kámbasa.-Swampy Valley with Rice-

grounds.—Gaúmaché.—Unsafe State of the Country.—Gúlumbé, rich Vegetation.

-Solitary Pilgrim.-Kardi.-Hausáwa.-Bírni-n-Kebbi.-Situation at the Brink

of the wide swampy Valley.-'Othmán Záki.-Kóla and its Governor.—Júggurú.

-Zogírma and its Governor.-Dangerous Road.-New Companions.-Tilli.—

A Day in the Wilderness.-Site of Bírni-n-Débe.— Dallul Máuri.— Shallow

Vales.-The Valley of Fógha.-The Salt of Fógha.-Character of Fógha Peo-

ple.-Importance of Fógha in Ethnological Respect.-Plenty of Kóla-nuts, but no

Corn.-Unexpected Generosity.-Dense Forest.-A solitary Limtúni.-Bóso.-

Garbo.-Lanadéji.—Peculiar Corn-stacks.-Songhay Farming Hamlets.—Avoid

Támkala.-Short Marches.-Tóndifú.-Reach the Niger.-Aspect of the River.

-Large Canoes.-Town and Market of Say.-State of Market.-Traffic.-Gov-

ernor of Say.-No Songhay Interpreter...

THE HILLY COUNTRY OF GURMA.

Leave Say.-Low Situation.-Sand-wind and heavy Thunder-storm.-Town of

Champagóre.-Architecture.—Mohámmed Galaijo.—His Residence.-His for-

mer State. His new Settlement.-His Court.-The Gurma and the Songhay.—

Songhay Towns.—Torrent Górebi.—Champaláwel and its Governor.—Gúro Ca-

ravan.- - Smelting Furnaces.- Bangapelle.-Elephant Traces.- Bosebángo.—

River Sírba. Frail Raft.-Smoking Disposition.-Mode of carrying Water.-

Country beyond the River.-Bundóre.-Denga.—Fine Timber for Boat-building.

-Sebba, Capital of Yágha.-Description of Huts.-Reception by Governor.-

Provisions.-Holiday.-The Kádhi.......
.Page 179

PROVINCE OF LIBTÁKO.-SOUTHEASTERN LIMIT OF THE RANGE OF THE COMMERCE

Plenty of Water-courses.-Character of Country.-Namantúgu.-The Arab from

the West.-Wandering Fulbe.-Tumpénga, and reformatory Struggle.-Unhos-

pitable Reception.-Dóre, Capital of Libtáko.-Importance of Market of Dóre.-

Difficulty of supplying my Wants.—Mósi Traders.—Drought.—Anarchy.—Vari-

ous Names of Dóre.-Interesting Relations of Water Communication.-Political

Situation.-Delay.-News from Timbuktu.-Unlucky Fate of a Letter....... 197

UNSETTLED PROVINCES OBSTRUCTED BY NATURE AND INFESTED BY MAN.- — ÁRIBÍN-

Uncertain Distance from Timbuktu.-Departure from Dóre.-The Ponds, or "Wén-

du.”—Providentially detained in Wúlu.—Numerous Sheets of Water.-Difficult

Water-course.-Serious Encounter.-Crossing a Swamp.-A'ribínda.—Fíliyo, a

Songhay Village.-Independent Character of Inhabitants.- Tínge.- Ground-

plan of Dwelling.-Character of Inhabitants.-Habits of Industry.-Heavy Rains.

-Caillie's Kissour.-Fulbe Cattle-breeders.-Hómbori.-The Black Worm.-

Kubo.-District Tondi.-Craftiness of El Waláti.-March of Red Worms.-Iso-

lated Mounts.-Native Dwellings.-Dúna.-Governor of Dalla.-Mundóro.—

Curious Thatchwork.—Hómbori Range.—Variety of Huts of I ́sayé.—Approach

Hómbori Mountains.-Castellated Mounts.-Bóne.........

IMÓSHAGH OR TAWÁREK ENCAMPMENTS SOUTH OF THE NIGER.-LAKES AND BACK-

WATERS OF THE GREAT RIVER.

Visit Encampment.-Tawárek Tents and Comforts.-A Cascade.-Apparel.-Con-

duct of El Waláti.-District of Imeggélelé.-Native Horse-dealers.-Bélé, Chief

of the Haw-n-A'dak.-Tawárek Women and Boys.-Presents.-Camels knock-

ed up.-District of Mínta.-Bámbara or Hudári.-Its Importance.-Personal

Relations.-The Méhedí expected.-The Chief Somki....

THE NETWORK OF CREEKS, BACKWATERS, AND LAKES BELONGING TO THE NIGER.-

SARAYAMO.-NAVIGATION TO KÁBARA.

Creek of Bambara.-Character of Bambara.-Great Heat.-Indiscreet Inquiries.-

Lake Nyéngay.-Character of Country.-Somki's Camp.-Mohammed Bonyá-

mi.-Town of Sarayámo.-Various Performances.-Embark on the Creek.-

Character of Creek.-Good Fish.-Very winding Course.-Wide open Branch.-

Animated Scenery.-Town of Banay.-Island of Kóra.-Sanyáre.-Enter the

principal Branch of Niger.-Majestic Scenery

ARRIVAL AT KÁBARA.-ENTRANCE INTO TIMBÚKTU.

Tásakal.-Koróme.-Large Number of Boats.-Branch of Koróme.-Arrival at

Kábara.-Description of Kábara.-The Inspector of the Harbor.-Unwelcome

Visitors.-Interview with Sídi A lawáte.-Approach to Timbuktu.-Momentous

Meeting.-Entrance into Timbuktu.......

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY AND TIMBÚKTU.

A'hmed Bábá, the Historian.-His Authority.-Origin of Timbuktu.-Form of

Name.-Sonni 'Alí.—Háj Mohammed A'skíá.-Condition of Songhay Empire.

-List of Provinces.-Power of the Governors.-Despotic Rule.-Heir Appa-

rent.-Political Condition of Songhay.-Intercourse with Egypt.-Commerce.—

Army. The Rumá.-Political Situation of Timbuktu.-Latest Events ...... 281

FIRST MONTH OF RESIDENCE IN TIMBÚKTU.

Awkward Position.-Presents to Sídi A'lawáte.-View of the Town.-Caillie's

Sketch.-Purchase of Calico.-The Name for Cotton mentioned by El Bekrí.—

First Trial.-Firmer Position.-Different Meaning of Words in different States

of Society.-Letter to El Bakáy.-My own Quarters.-False Prospects of Home

Journey.-First Interview with the Sheikh.-Major Laing.-Presents.-Illness.

--Orders from Hamda - Alláhi.-Intrigues successfully overcome. - Night's

CHAPTER LXVIII.

FIRST RESIDENCE IN THE DESERT.-POLITICAL COMBINATIONS.-GREAT MOSQUE.—

GROUND-PLAN OF THE TOWN.

Leave the Town.-The Camp.-Political Schemes.-Attempt at Proselytism.—

Return to Town.-Movements of the Fulbe.-Annoying Circumstances.-Ex-

cursion to Kábara.-Note on the Royal Residence in Hamda-Alláhi.—A few

Palm-trees.-The Great Mosque.-Ground-plan of the Town.-Circumference.-

Wall. The different Quarters of the Town.-Inhabitants.-Another Stay in the

Camp.-Sand-eating.-Private Life in Camp.-Tediousness of Position..... 315

POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY.-DANGEROUS CRISIS.

Interruption of Caravan Trade.—The Tájakánt.—Position of the Fúlbe in relation

to the Berber Tribes.-Dangerous Situation.-Officer sent from Hamda-Alláhi

to catch me.-Host repulsed.-Letter from Hamda-Alláhi.-Interview with the

Chief of the Tademékket.-Knowledge is Power.-Presents.-Large Troop of

Bérabísh Horsemen.-Letter and News from Europe.-Hostile Gathering.—

Leave Town again.-An Embassy.-Return to Town.-A'wáb's Account of

Mungo Park.-Letter of Franchise.-Momentous Death of the Chief of the Bé-

rabísh, 'Alí Weled 'Abéda.-Out to the Camp.-Chanting in the Desert.—

Christian and Mohammedan Principles.-The Inundation.-Stream of running

Water in the Desert.-State of Trade.-Small Tájakánt Caravan.-Close of the

BEGINNING OF THE NEW YEAR.-ANOMALOUS RISING OF THE NIGER.-COMMERCIAL

RELATIONS OF TIMBUKTU.

Cheering Prospects at the Beginning of the Year.-Material Existence.-Unrea-

sonable Dispute about a Point of religious Controversy.-Embarrassing Circum-

stances.-Anomalous Rising of the River.-The Phenomenon explained.-High

State of the Waters.-Machinations of the Merchants from Morocco.-Mysteri-

ous Attack of Sickness.-Rainy Days in January.-Departure put off.-Demon

Principle of the Mohammedans.-Small Loan.-Commercial Relations.-Man-

ufactures limited.-Leather Work.-Specimens.-No Weaving.-Foreign Com-

merce.-Gold.-Gold and Salt.-Species and Prices of Salt.-Salt and Gúro

Nuts.-Points in the Trade of Gúro Nuts.-Cotton Manufactures in former Times.

-Provisions.-Caravans from the North.-Exaggerated Accounts.-Articles of

European Commerce.-Important Position of Timbuktu ....

DIARY CONTINUED.

My Informants.-Continued Disappointment.-Family Reason of Delay.-Leave

again for the Tents.-Merits of the Prophets.-Books sent out to Central Africa.

-Arrival of Sídi Mohammed.-Hammádi.-Family Concerns.-Another Arrival

from Ghadámes.-Unlucky Fate of a Parcel.-The Waters subside.-Indications

of a political Storm.-Arrival of another Officer from Hamda-Alláhi.-Protest

of the Brothers.-A sleepless Night.-Interesting Episode.-The Kél-úlli... 369

GREAT CRISIS.-OBLIGED TO LEAVE THE TOWN.-MILITARY DEMONSTRATION.

The Tábu or great Army of the Awelímmiden.-Who is a Moslim?-Celebration

of the Sebúwa.-The Gwanín.-The Kél-hekíkan.-Political Crisis.-Hasty

Proceedings.-Warlike nightly Manoeuvres.-March of the Tábu arrested.-

Camp Inconveniences.-Political Meeting at the Ródha.-Consultation of the

Brothers.-Policy of the Fulbe.-Further Difficulties.-Life in the Camp.-The

Gwanín again.-Turbulent State of the Country.-Presents.-Intrigues.-Na-

tive Estimate of Europeans.-General political Relations..

CHAPTER LXXIII.

ABORTIVE ATTEMPT AT DEPARTURE FROM TIMBUKTU.

Setting out from Bóse-bángo.-Tawárek Encampments.-Amalélle.-Camp of

the Kel-n-Nokúnder at Ernésse.-Hospitality of the Kél-úlli.-Camp of the Ta-

rabanása.-Relations of various Chiefs.-Taútilt and the Chief Wóghda.-The

Welád Molúk.-The chivalrous Wóghdugu.

RETROGRADE MOVEMENT TOWARD TIMBÚKTU.

The Rebel Chief Akhbi.-Quarrel of the Igwádaren.-Return westward.-Berber

and Canaanitic Names.-Swamps and Rains.-A Camp in Motion.-Lady Trav-

elers.-The Kinsman of Sául.-Exciting News.-Relations with the French.-

Parting with Kungu.—The Camp at Ernésse again.-Downs of Ule-Tehárge.—

A friendly Chat.-Return of Servants from Town.-News from Timbuktu.. 413

FINAL AND REAL START.-CREEKS ON THE NORTHERN BANK OF THE NIGER.—

GHÉRGO.-BÁMBA.

Real Start.-Leave Ule-Tehárge.-A welcome Parcel.-Gigantic Retem.---Fe-

males of the Welád Moluk.-Peaceable Tolba.-Wild Hog.-Zangway.-The

Creeks.-E'm-n-kúris.-Tamizgída.-Ghérgo.-Hospitality of the Kél-antsár.--

Crossing Creeks.-Approach to Bamba.--Scenery of the River. --The Rumá.-

Smoking.— The Cocks of Bámba.- Sídi Mohammed's Family.- Scarcity of

Supplies.......

THE DESERT.-COUNTRY ALONG THE BORDER OF THE RIVER.-GREATEST NARROW-

ING.-SOUTHEASTERLY BEND.

A Night March through Swamps.-Terárart, northernmost Creek of the Niger.-
"Tahónt-n-éggish."-Various Personalities.-The Chief Sadáktu.-Hot Camp-
ing-ground. A poisonous Spider.-Encampment of Sídi Ilemín.-Beginning of
the rocky District.-Tin-sherífen.-The Kél e' Súk.-Tawárek Ladies.-The
River at Tin-sherífen.-Rocks in the River.-Cry of the young Zangway.... 448

CHAPTER LXXVII.

TÓSAYE, OR THE NARROWING OF THE RIVER.-BURRUM; ANCIENT RELATION TO

EGYPT. GREAT SOUTH-SOUTHEASTERLY REACH.

Incident in African Warfare.-Island of A'dar-n-Háut.-Burrum.-Intercourse

with Egypt.-Slow Progress.-Intercourse by Water between Gógó and Bámba.

-River between steep Cliffs.-Morals of the Kél e' Súk.-The Tin-ger-E'ge-

desh.-Curiosity of the Women. -Mount Tóndibi.-Appearance of our Party.—

Swampy District Abúba.-The Ibawajiten.-Great Breadth of the River.-First

Sight of Gógó.-Appearance of Industry.....

CHAPTER LXXVIII.

THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF SONGHAY, AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.

Gógó and Timbuktu.-General Description of Gógó.-Rich Vegetation.-The

Mosque.-Meeting of native Chiefs.-Khozématen and Hanna.-The Gá-béro.-

Their Hospitality. - Encamp in Barno. - Hippopotami. - Return to Gógó. -

Preparations to leave Gógó.-Arrival of the Chief Thákkefi.—His Proposal.—-

Survey of the River......

SEPARATION FROM THE SHEIKH.-CROSS THE RIVER TO THE SOUTHWESTERN SIDE.

-VARIOUS ENCAMPMENTS.-RIVER STUDDED WITH ISLANDS.-ANSÓNGHO.

Separation from the Sheikh.-Bornu-gungu.-The Gá-bíbi.—Unsettled Districts.—

Tóngi.-Barbarous Custom.-A'dar-andúrren.-Island Ansóngho.-Iron Gates

of Akarámby.-Rocky Character of River.-Burre.-Fúlbe Settlers.-Rapids.-

Tiboráwen.-Wild Scenery.-The I'melíggizen.-Island Kátubu.-A River Ar-

chipelago.-Wild River Scenery at E'm-n-íshib.-Parting with Mohammed the

DENSER POPULATION BEGINS.

Difficulty of determining the Water-courses.-Granite Boulders.-Ayóru and its

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