Where many colours are required in a pattern, and the same do not very frequently occur, it is advisable to introduce them in short lengths instead of carrying on each thread. This should always be attended to when working with chenille.

When beads are used, they are to be strung on the silk with a needle.

The average number of stitches for the length of a purse, in fine silk, is one hundred and sixty. In coarse silk, one hundred and ten.

From ninety to one hundred stitches form the circle of a purse

in fine silk.

One hundred and thirty stitches may be taken for the round of a bag in crochet silk.

A table-cover in six-thread fleecy, is generally computed at about four hundred stitches in length.

Borders of flowers may be worked in crochet, but it would be impossible to convey a complete idea even to the most experienced worker, unless accompanied with coloured patterns, which the nature of our illustrations preclude us from offering. But the expert needlewoman will soon perceive the best method of copying any pattern of this description she may desire.

CHAPTER XVII.

Knitting.

"Those curious nets thy slender fingers knit."

WALLER.

"And between the knyttynges flowers of golde."

HALL'S Chronicle.

NITTING was unknown in England until the middle of the sixteenth century.* It is said, that one William Rider, an apprentice on London-bridge, seeing at the house of an Italian merchant, a pair of knit worsted stockings from Mantua, took the hint, and made a similar pair which he presented to William, Earl of Pembroke, in 1564, and

* In the Rowleian forgeries, by Chatterton, "the marvellous boy," as Wordsworth designates him, the following verse occurs; it is part of the "Mynstrelle's Songe, bie Syr Thybbot Gorges," in the "Tragycal Enterlude of Ella."

that these were the first of the kind made in England.* We learn from Howell, that Henry VIII commonly wore cloth hose,† except there came from Spain by great chance, a pair of knit silk stockings and when his son Edward VI was presented with a pair of long Spanish silk stockings, by Sir Thomas Gresham, it was deemed a gift of some importance.

The invention of knitting has generally been attributed to the Spaniards. The Scots likewise lay some claim to it, founded upon the fact, that the first company of stocking-knitters, established at Paris, took St. Fiacre for their patron, who is said to have been the son of one of the kings of Scotland. Be this as it may, it is certain that the art had been practised in Spain and Italy prior to our knowledge of it in England, but at how early a period does not appear. Mezerai says, that Henry II of France. wore silk stockings at his sister's marriage to the duke of Savoy, in 1559-the first that had been seen in that country. In England, in 1561, knit stockings were but little known, as we then find Queen Elizabeth's silk-woman, Mistress Montague, presenting her majesty with a pair.‡ Knitting, however, was scarcely in use, ere the stocking-frame, in a great measure, usurped its place; yet it does, and will doubtless ever conspicuously rank among

"As Elynour bie the greene lesselle was syttinge,

As from the sone's hete she harried,

She sayde, as herr whytte hondes whyte hosen were knyttinge,
Whatte pleasure ytt ys to be married!"

The introduction of this passage was one on which some stress was laid by those who endeavoured to prove or disprove the authenticity of these literary fictions, from the art of knitting not being practised at so early a period,Thomas Rowley (as Chatterton wished his readers to believe) being a priest of the fifteenth century.

* Anderson's "History of Commerce," vol. i. p. 400.

The only stockings in use, at this period, were of cloth, or of milled stuff sewn together.

Vide chapter on Silk, page 47.

the domestic arts practised by the industrious poor, and “ ever and anon" by ladies, as the voice of fashion calls its intricate mazes into action for their amusement.*

Knitting has long been the friend of the blind, whose fingers easily unravel its mysteries, and by their exercise afford solace and amusement to their frequently too tedious hours. To the indigent it has given employment, and imparted what, to them, is almost equal to food-warmth: no garments being so warm or durable as the knitted. How many ladies amuse themselves in the winter, in making knee-caps, cuffs, comforters, caps, shawls, and tippets for the poor? Independently of these, much knitting is done as a source of subsistence,-how useful and comfortable ar the knitted spencer, the warm bonnet-cap, the glove for practising, the mitt, and various articles made for children's wear, and now more generally patronized and adopted than formerly. Besides the useful, what stores of ornamental articles does it afford! what beautiful purses, bags, and bead-work will knitting produce! and

* The stocking-frame was invented in the reign of queen Elizabeth, in the year 1589, by William Lee, M.A. of St. John's College, Cambridge, a native of Woodborough, near Nottingham. The origin of this most important discovery is singular:-it is said that Mr. Lee was expelled the university for marrying contrary to the statutes of the college. Being thus rejected, and ignorant of any other means of subsistence, he was reduced to the necessity of living upon what his wife could earn by knitting stockings, which gave a spur to his invention; and by curiously observing the working of the needles in knitting, he formed in his mind the model of the frame which has proved of such important advantage to this branch of English manufactures. In the frame-work knitters or stocking weavers' Hall, is a portrait of Mr. Lee, pointing to one of his frames, and discoursing with a woman, who is knitting with needles in the usual way. The picture bears the following inscription: "In the year 1589, the ingenious William Lee, A.M. of St. John's College, Cambridge, devised this profitable art for stockings (but being despised went to France), yet of iron to himself, but to us and to others of gold, in memory of whom this is here painted."-Vide Hutton's View of London, vol. ii. p. 605.

in the combination of the two, we would here mention the surprising and splendid specimens of knitting done by the poor Irish cottage girls, on the estate of Lord de Vesci, under the kind patronage and skilful management of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, whose beneficent exertions have been extended both to their instruction, and afterwards to the disposal of the labours of these poor children: the fineness, variety, and perfection, exhibited in this knitting, almost exceed belief as to the possibility of its execution by the hand.

So many cleverly-written books of instruction, in the art of knitting, have of late appeared, that it would be presumptuous in us to hope, and far either from our wish or intention, to supersede their use, or to attempt to rival their ingenuity: we would rather humbly endeavour to assist those, who either have not patience or tact to follow the rules given (perhaps in some cases with a little too much technicality), and offer a few useful directions of the simplest kind, as a prelude to a better acquaintance with this useful art.

A VERY EASY STITCH FOR LIGHT SCARFS, SHAWLS, BABIES'

QUILTS, ETC.

Cast on any number of stitches, with three-thread fleecy.-No. 18 needles.

First row-make one; knit two together; alternately to the end of the row.

Each succeeding row is merely a repetition of the first.

Any number of colours may be introduced by working in stripes.

This also forms a very pretty stitch for a purse, if done with silk.