CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION-

CHAPTER I.

Early history of Needlework-The time of Moses-The ancient Egyptians

-Greeks and Romans-Helen and Penelope-Embroidering of the Peplus-

Needlework of the Middle Ages-The Anglo-Saxons-Anglicum opus-St.

Dunstan Needlework practised by men-Hangings or veils-Tapestries-

Bayeux Tapestry-Work of Queen Matilda-Ancient Pall belonging to the

Fishmongers' Company-English Needlework in the sixteenth century-Va-

rious occupations of ladies at that period-Needlework noticed by Addison-

The close of the last century-Coloured Embroideries-Print work-Miss

Linwood-her pictures-Berlin Patterns-Varieties of Needlework-Amuse-

ment afforded by them

1

TAPESTRY-

CHAPTER II.

Described by Spenser-Decoration of walls with Tapestry-Mentioned by Ho-

mer-Antiquity of Invention—the Phrygians-Women of Sidon-Phæacia-

Griffins and Centaurs-Athenian Tapestry-Story of Arachne and Minerva

-Introduction of Tapestry by the Crusaders-Weaving Tapestry-First

practised in Flanders-Arras-Introduction into England-Patronized by

James I-Manufactory at Mortlake-Charles I and Sir Francis Crane-

When Manufactured in France-Henry IV-Colbert, and Louis XIV-

Manufacture Royale des Gobelins-History and productions of that Manufac-

tory-Sully-Le Brun-Napoleon-Tapestry for St. Cloud-Evelyn's De-

scription of Gobelin Tapestry-Dyeing Establishment, and Drawing-school

of the Gobelins-The basse and haute lisse-Working of Tapestry-Instru-

ments-Cartoons of Raffaelle-Tapestry of St. Mary's Hall, Coventry—

Hampton Court

17

MATERIALS IN GENERAL-

CHAPTER III.

The Products of the Animal, the Vegetable, and Mineral Kingdoms-Various

Materials employed-Needlework of the present day-Materials used by Miss

Linwood-Facilities now possessed-Variety of Čolours-Paper Patterns-

Implements

27

WOOL-

CHAPTER IV.

Its Importance-Description of Sheep's Wool-the product of Cultivation-

its History and Preparation-Merino, whence derived-Invention of Spinning

and Weaving-mentioned by Moses-Linen and woollen cloths of the

Egyptians-Duties of Women in the Primitive Ages-Produce of white

Wool-Dyeing-German Wool-Prepared at Gotha-Introduction of Merino

sheep into Saxony-First reared at Stolpen-Improvement in the quality of

their Wool-Different qualities of Wool-Employed for Needlework-Zephyr

Merino-Berlin Wool-Superiority of Its qualities and capabilities-Used

for Canvas-work and Embroidery-for Knitting, Netting, and Crochet-

Varieties and Quality of German Wool as prepared for Needlework-English

Wool-Grounding-Worsteds-Crewels-Yarn-Fleecy-Hamburgh Wool

-German Fleecy-Antiquity of the Art of Dyeing-Discovery of the Tyrian

Purple-Anecdote relating to
30

SILK-

CHAPTER V.

Antiquity of its use by the Chinese-Silkworms introduced into India and

Persia-Carried to Constantinople-Into Greece-Palermo-Calabria-Italy

and Spain-Rearing of Silkworms in France-The Silkworm of Ceos-

Quantity of Silk used in England-Use of Silk among the Romans-Its

rarity Sold for its weight in Gold-Heliogabalus first wore a Silken Robe-

General use of Silk at Rome-Silkworm described by Pausanias-Spinning

and weaving Silk introduced into England-Marriage of the daughter of

Henry III-Silk-women in the Reign of Henry IV-Silk Stockings worn by

Henry VIII-Anecdote of Queen Elizabeth-Broad Silk manufactured in the

time of James I--Silk-throwing Mill-Improvements of the Manufacture in

England-Lines, by Cowper, on the Silkworm-Varieties of Silk-Their

employment in Needlework-Mitorse Silk-Netting Silk-Sewing Silks-

Crochet Silk-Dacca Silk-Floss Silk-Bourre de Soie-Spun Silk-Other

materials resembling Silk-the Spider-Pinna-Spun Glass.

GOLD AND SILVER-

CHAPTER VI.

44

Used in the earliest Ages for Embroidery-Mentioned in Exodus-Invention

ascribed to Attalus-The Robe of Agrippina-The Tunic of Heliogabalus-

Mantle of the statue of Jupiter-Vulcan's Net-Remains of ancient wire-

work-Wire-drawing supposed to have been known to the Egyptians-Gold

thread in the time of the Romans-Gold and Silver Thread of the present

day-Its manufacture-Mosaic Gold-Wire-drawing first practised at Nurem-

berg-Its introduction into England-Manufacture of Gold and Silver for

Needlework-Gold thread of the Chinese-Passing-Gold cord-Gold braid-

Bullion-Spangles-Lama and Paillon-Gold beads-Gold fringes-Military

embroidery

.

Chenille, Braid, etc.—

CHAPTER VII.

56

Derivation of the term Chenille-Chenilles of Silk, and Wool-Its manufac-

ture-Application of-Braids-Their various kinds-Application of-Union

Cord-Straw-Nacre and Ecaille-Velvet-Flowers made of-Beads-Bugles

-Paillons and Paillettes-Crêpe-China Ribbon

64

CANVAS-

CHAPTER VIII.

Different manufactures of Various sizes-How designated-Mosaic Canvas

-Silk Canvas-Flexible Canvas-Cotton Canvas-English, French, and

German-Striped Canvas-Imitation Silk Canvas-Thread Canvas-Penelope

Canvas-Canvas for Tapestry-stitch-Flattened Canvas-Its use-Woollen

Canvas-Bolting

BERLIN PATTERNS--

CHAPTER IX.

70

Improvements in the Art of Needlework since their Introduction-Their con-

sumption in different countries-Manufacture of-Process of colouring-Adap-

tation for working-Grounding-Defects of these Patterns-The remedy-

Sorting of Patterns-Common rules of painting-Arrangement of Colours-

Faces of Figures-Skies-Materials for working them on-Lining Berlin

Canvas-Vienna Patterns-English work from Berlin Patterns-History of

Berlin Patterns

CHAPTER X.

DRAWING PATTERNS FOR EMBROIDery, Braiding, etc.—

76

Designing of Patterns-Drawing on paper-Pouncing-Tracing on the ma-

terial-Drawing liquid-Large patterns-Repetition of the same design-

Method of MM. Revel and Regondet-Patterns on muslins, &c.-Changing

proportions of Patterns-Drawing upon various materials-Satin, Velvet, &c.

-designing on the material
84

IMPLEMENTS-

CHAPTER XI.

Needles Manufacture of―Their antiquity-Knitting Needles and Pins-

Netting Needles and Meshes-Crochet and Tambour Needles-Filière-

Embroidery frames-Large frames-Table frames-Standing frames-Tam-

bour frames-Screw Embroidery frames-D'Oyley and Shawl frames-

Meshes for raised work-Purse stretchers-Purse moulds-Chain mould-

Fork for a chain

FRAMING WORK-

CHAPTER XII.

89

Dressing a frame-Framing canvas-Cloth and canvas-Velvet-Satin-Silk

-Leather-Cloth, &c.

101

STITCHES-

CHAPTER XIII.

The working of stitches-Tent stitch-Cross stitch-Gobelin or Tapestry

stitch-Irish stitch-German stitch- Imitation of lace - Various fancy

106

Introduced from the East-the invention of, attributed to Minerva-The

Phrygians-Story of Procne-Embroidery mentioned by Pliny-other ancient

authors-Homer-The embroideries of Helen-Andromache-Aholiab in the
time of Moses-Embroidery mentioned by Ezekiel-Embroidery in gold in-
vented by Attalus-A law of Zaleucus-The garments of Tarquinius Priscus
-Decorative needlework-Derivation of the term Embroidery-The Chinese

-Embroideries from Manilla-Embroidery as at present practised in China-

Indian Embroidery-Canadian-The negresses of Senegal-The Georgians

-The Turkish women-Modern Greeks-The women of Therapia-their

extraordinary works-Embroideries of Vienna-Milan and Venice-France-

Saxony-Nancy and Paris-In what the art consists-Shaded embroidery-

Arabesque or Moresque Patterns-Flowers-Historical subjects, landscapes,

and portraits-Various materials employed-Application of-French or flat

embroidery Embroidery in chenille-Embroidering coats of armɛ-Raised

embroidery-Raised cut embroidery-Embroidery in gold and silver-Embroi-

dery in tambour-Chain stitch-Embroidery by machinery-The Weaver's

Song

CANVAS WORK-

CHAPTER XV.

112

Rules relating to-Right way of the stitch-Berlin patterns-working from-
enlarging work from-Cross stitch on one thread-Mixing of cross and tent
stitch-Patterns to form a centre-Grounding-the mode of working-various
colours for-Gobelin stitch-Colours-Sorting Berlin patterns-Flowers-
Flesh colours-Patterns drawn on canvas-Crests and coats of arms-Intro-
duction of silk with wool-Increase and decrease of work from Berlin patterns
-Illustration of

CROCHET

CHAPTER XVI.

Its varieties-Stitches-Directions for Working

A sofa pillow, or table cover

136

147

.

149

An easy Turkish pattern for a table cover or pillow

Another Turkish pattern for a table cover, etc.

A table-cover or pillow

150

151

152

A bag with steel or gold beads

Another bag with steel or gold beads, and silk of two colours

An elegant bag in blue, white, and gold

An open crochet bag in chenille

160

162

162

163

164

164

165

Unknown in England before the sixteenth century-mentioned in the Row-

leian Forgeries-The first stockings knit in England-Silk stockings worn by

Henry VIII-Invention of Knitting-The Spaniards-the Scots-Knitting

practised in Spain and Italy-Queen Elizabeth's stockings-The invention of

the stocking frame-amusement it affords to the blind-employment to the

poor-Knitting of the cottage girls in Ireland-Works on knitting-

An easy stitch for light scarfs, shawls, babies' quilts, etc.

A D'Oyley

Checked or matted pattern

Harlequin quilt with tufts

Turkish knitting

Raised knitting

:

184

Knitted fringe

Vandyke border

A scalloped fringe or border

Another knitted fringe

A spaced fringe for a crochet table cover, etc.

Knitted insertion

Bonnets de nuit d'hommes

187