feet the Palatine, "Evander's kingdom mean and poor." How desert now it stands! To the north, the Aventine. Beyond, the Etrurian hills, once covered with cities. Before them, the sacred Soracte with its solitary, lofty point; and on the east, the Tiburtine range, over which majestically rose the hoary tops of the Apennines.

Time swept his mighty wing across the plain, and other nations rose! I looked again: The Tiber washed the walls of mighty Rome, and the seven hills of the Imperial city lift its marble glories to the sun. The banks of the Tiber resound with the shouts of the idolatrous multitude, as the troops attend the conqueror through the triumphal way. He has reached the Capitol. "It is," say they, "the voice of God and not of man." He who sits in light, the God of hosts, sent that impious shout to distant nations. They heard the summons from afar, and the imperial city's glories" Star by star expired."

I was recalled to the present scene by the intense heat of the sun, which obliged me now and then to seek shelter behind a projecting buttress. Seen from this height, modern Rome is seated in the midst of desolation. You perhaps remember the neighbourhood of Redruth in Cornwall-that region of mines. Imagine a dark or red grass to have covered those inequalities, and such an appearance to extend as far as the eye can reach, to the very edge of the horizon;-to the west-long lines of ruined aqueducts stretching across till lost in distance-hundreds of ruined human habitations, and tombs and walls, such is the deserted Campagna, over which breathes pestilence. In the heights of the Pamfili are a few lofty pines, which seem to stand as mourners in this region of death; and the ruins of the city, and the lonely, narrow, deep, streets

VIEW PROM ST. PETER'S

85

look gloomy, and remind the Christian traveller "t! at even Rome is a vain felicity," and of the promise of inexpressible preciousness, which secures to the true believer in Jesus, --a city where there is "no decaying temple; for the Lord God Almighty, and the Lamb, are the Temple of it."

On the south-east is the range of hills which from Albano shelves down into the deserted Campagna; and amidst its tops the Albanian lake is seen, with Frescati, Grotta Ferata, and the hill of ancient Tusculum On the east is the Tiburtine range. On the north, Soracte is a singular and striking object; and the hills of Viterbo bound the horizon on that side. At this moment, the snows of the Abruzzian Apennines rise finely.

I never expected to realise this vision of my childhood. Often had I talked of Italy, but rather as giving fancy its wing than in soberness of thought. I looked, and looked again (lest the impression should be too faint to be restored hereafter) at an object seen with the blandishment of accomplished hope, and with almost the tenderness of one who says farewell to the beautiful, but cold remains of a friend. We descended to the platform; and now, whilst the eye is gratified by all that is new, the ear is greeted also by foreign sounds; and you are standing on a church, which is so immense that its buildings are like a town; whilst statues, like giants, glare upon you-even the whole hierarchy of Catholic adoration!

CHAPTER IX.

Ancient and modern Rome-Justin Martyr-the Pillar of Antoninusthe Tarpeian Rock-Forum Romanum-the Arch of Septimus Severus-the Temple of Jupiter Tonans-the Curia-the TribunalVia Sacra-Basilica of Constantine-the Arch of Titus, its basreliefs-Captive Jews-the Coliseum-the Triumphal Way.

HAVING finished our survey of St. Peter's, we determined to make our research in ancient and modern Rome. Now I must tell you that, not having the indefatigable legs of the heroine of Madame de Staël, we engaged a carriage, for which we paid four paoli the first hour, and three the next.

On entering Rome, as already remarked, three principal streets present themselves, leading from the Porto del Popolo close to the Tiber is the "via Ripetta;" the centre is the "Corso;" the third the "via Babouina." We proceeded down the Corso to the Piazza Colonna, a square, surrounded by palaces, one of which is used as La Posta," a very interesting place to wanderers from home.

66

This square occupies part of the ancient forum of Antoninus, the only remains of which is the great column raised by the senate in honour of "Marcus Aurelius Antoninus," after his famous German and other victories; and the basreliefs which surround it relate to them. The figure of Jupiter Pluvius" is very obvious: notwithstanding the pious meditations of Antoninus, he had not learned mercy.

We are told, by the ecclesiastical historian, that Justin Martyr presented him his second Apology. It appears that Justin had in vain sought to know God from the instructions of the Stoic, Peripatetic, Pythagorean, and Platonic philosophy. "As I was walking," says Justin, “near the sea, I was met by an aged person with a venerable appearance, whom I beheld with much attention. We soon entered into conversation; and, professing a love for private meditation, the venerable old man hinted at the absurdity of mere speculation, abstract from practice. This," says Justin, "gave occasion to me to express my ardent desire to know God, and to expatiate on the praises of philosophy. The stranger by degrees endeavoured to cure me of my ignorant admiration of Plato and Pytha goras. He pointed out the writings of the Hebrew prophets, as much more ancient than any of those attributed to these philosophers; and he led me to some view of the nature and evidences of Christianity. He added, Above all things pray that the gates of light may be opened unto you; for Christianity is not to be understood by any one, except God, and his Christ, enable a man to understand.' He left me! I saw him no more! but immediately a fire was kindled in my soul; and, in the end, I found the divine Scriptures the only sure philosophy." In these treasures did Justin find peace when sent to prison and scourged; and he was at length beheaded by this enemy of all Christians; for the religion of Antoninus was mere speculation. It appears that Aurelius had introduced him amongst the Salian priests, when eight years old, and he became accurately versed in the ritual of the priesthood; but he did not give the Christians the honour which Adrian had granted them-an

equality with the worshippers of Serapis. The flames with which he surrounded the Christians, have left no stain on his triumphal column, but they have carried their record on high. The statue of this Marcus Aurelius Antoninus once stood on the summit of the pillar. It now supports a statue of him who once also persecuted the Christians, and verily "thought he did God service," but who afterwards rejoiced whilst he said, in Rome, "God forbid that I should glory, save in the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ." The pillar of Antoninus is of white marble; its diameter eleven feet, and height eighty-eight. Passing on over the little Monte Citorio, we saw the Solar Obelisk, first raised at Heliopolis by Psammeticus the first, king of Egypt. Augustus placed it in the Campus Martius.

It was almost impossible not to expect some ancient ruin on the Capitoline, the Mount of Saturn in the golden age, and, in after time, the seat of that overwhelming power which governed the world, whose rugged rock, under the name of Tarpeian, was the terror of the traitor, and the refuge of the weary. If the Tiber ever flowed round its base, it has receded surprisingly, as nothing less than a miracle could cause a body falling from the Tarpeian to reach it now.

We ran up the stairs of the Capitoline, anxiously inquiring for the Tarpeian-judge of our surprise, when we were directed across the mount, to turn down a street to our right. We there found a guide; you might have mistaken her for Alecto: she led us up a few stairs through a house, down a few steps into her garden. "Ecco la!" said she. We stood on the edge of the Tarpeian.

You look directly towards the Forum Romanum, and We down upon ruined walls, gardens, thorns, and briars.