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And Weekly Review;

Forming an Analysis and General Repository of Literature, Philosophy, Science, Arts, History, the Drama, Morals, Manners, and Amusements.

This Paper is published early every Saturday Morning; and is forwarded Weekly, or iu Monthly or Quarterly Parts, throughout the British Dominions.

No. 107.

LONDON, SATURDAY, JUNE 2, 1821.

Review of New Books.

Oliver Cromwell and his Times. By
Thomas Cromwell. 8vo. pp. 484.
London, 1821.

for new facts. Indeed, M. Villemain's work is evidently less intended mation on the events of the time in to supply any chasm in our own inforwhich Cromwell lived, than to enable the French to apply to their views and WE are persuaded, that to many per- situation the conclusions which were to sons Oliver Cromwell and his Times' be adduced from the relation of facts, will appear a subject so completely ex-which he considered analogous to the hausted by historians and biographers, recent and then existing circumstances that no new interest can be given to it. of France. Indeed, the incidents in the life of

Price 6d.

by literally becoming "all things to all ren," he contrived to elevate himself above all his competitors.'

This passage is calculated to create a favourable opinion of the spirit in which the work is written; and we can bear an equally favourable testimony to the industry of the author, who appears not only to have consulted every printed work that could assist him, but also to have resorted to the The present biographer of Crom-MS. treasures on the subject in the Cromwell, and the events in which he well, though sufficiently strong and li- British Museum, selections from which had so conspicuous a share, are so wellberal in his politics, displays much dis-are given in the Appendix.- We shall crimination in the choice of his mate- now proceed to give a very rapid sketch rials, and great impartiality in estimat- of the life of this most extraordinary ing the character of Cromwell; but individual.

and religious conflict just described, Oli-
ver Cromwell was, perhaps, the best cal-
culated, not merely to "ride in the whirl
wind and direct the storm," but to direct
it so as invariably to promote his own ad-
vantage. Himself, past doubt, both a po-
litical and religious enthusiast, he was
certain, from that circumstance alone, of

Oliver Cromwell was born at Hub

there is no reason to doubt, that his father being a second son, and by no means munificently provided for, engaged in trade, as has been generally asserted. The education of Cromwell

family; at an early age, he was said to beaspiring, stubborn, and obstinate,' and of no settled constancy.' The story of his quarrelling with Charles I. when both were children, and his dream, we pass over as well known, our biographer inclining to believe in the authenticity of both. From the Grammar School of his native village, Cromwell was sent to Sydney, Sussex College, Cambridge, April 23rd, 1616. The entry in the College Register is as follows:

known, that there is really nothing new to be said upon the subject, except as to the real character of this extraordinary man, which appears to us never to we differ from him very much, if he have been satisfactorily drawn. The thinks that the present situation of this tingdon, April 25th, 1599, of a good same party-feeling, which, in and near country bears the slightest analogy to family, both maternally and paterhis own time, made either a saint or a de- that of England in the time of Charles nally; but, notwithstanding the denial vil of hint, has pervaded, in a greater or the First, or that we need any new of his descendant, Oliver Cromwell, less degree, all his biographers up to memento, to save us from republicanthe present day. To portray the true ism or civil war. But passing over a character of Cromwell, not as he ap-heavy introduction, and a still heavier peared to others, but to shew the true preface, we shall come to the Memoir workings of his mind in all the various itself, which commences with the folsituations in which he was placed, not-lowing well-drawn character of the sub-corresponded with the situation of his withstanding all that has been said up-jeet of the work:-on it, still remained a desideratum. Of all men living at the era of political The author of the present volume has done more towards this than any preceding writer; but, before we enter into the work, we shall briefly advert to the two lives of Cromwell, which have appeared within the last two years. Of one of these, the Memoirs of Cromwell, by his descendant, Oliver Crom-securing the consideration, applause, and well, Esq. we have already recorded hearty services, of numbers; and, being our opinion*, and, therefore, shall only at the same time gifted with a very extraremark, that Mr. Cromwell makes his ordinary portion of a most opposite quaancestor an unblemished pattern of all lity, self-command, he could instantly, the virtues, whether of the private in- when his interests required it, bid the dividual, the statesman, the warrior, he continued to avail himself of the full current of his own feelings subside, while the sovereign, or the saint. The other tide of those of others. By turns sincere life of Cromwell, to which we alluded, and a hypocrite; a religionist and a zeais in French, by M. Villemain, pub- lous worldling; a man of gravity and (allished at Paris, in two volumes, 8vo. most) a buffoon; a preacher and a pun1819. M. Villemain draws a very ster; a clown and a gentleman; stately different character of Cromwell from and familiar; slovenly and precise; an that of his descendant; but, as all his orator and without words to express himinformation was necessarily drawn from self; cautious and yet enterprising; arEnglish sources, we should look in vain dent and yet methodical; ready and yet invariably politic; his very defects were made to turn to his account, almost equally with his admirable qualities; and,

See the review of this work in No. 39 of the
Literary Chronicle.
VOL. II.

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1616

Apr. 23. Oliverus Cromwell Huntingdoniensis admissus at Com14 J. 1. mentum Sociorum Aprillis vicesimo tertio, 1616, Mr.o Ricardo Howlet. 'Between which entry and the next, crowded in, and in a smaller letter, his character is thus curiously drawn by some unknown hand :

Hic fuit grandis ille Impostor, Carnifex perditissimus, qui, pientissimo Rege Carolo 1. nefaria Coede sublato, ipsuin usurpavit Thronum et tria Regna, per quinq, ferme Armorum Spatium, sub Pr tectoris Nomine indomita Tyrannide vexavit.'

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any more to leave the island without a
royal licence. This proclamation being
evaded, the next step taken was by an
order in council. authorising "the lord-
treasurer to take speedy and effectual
course for the stay of eight ships, now in
the river of Thames, prepared to go to
New England," and for "putting on land
all the passengers and provisions therein
intended for the voyage." In one of
these vessels were Cromwell, and his
compatriot Hampden! How short-sight-
ed thus appear the precautions of ty-

ranny!'

At college, he acquired some knowjocular; his conduct, from the pliant to lege of Latin, but his attainments the overbearing; from the submissive, to were inconsiderable, and he was more the most vehement contradictions and the addicted to rude (and some boldest opposition. He could be gensay vicious) tle, almost to effeminacy; or rude, alsports than to study. He was soon most to brutality; the protector of an inafter sent to town, and entered of Linsect, or a savage presiding at a human coln's Inn, where, instead of studying massacre! He was found to have facul the law, he learned the follies and ties, tempers, tastes, nay, even apparent vices of the town. But whatever were habits, adapted to all seasons and occahis early improprieties, they were of no sions. Hence, he could pursue an object long continuance, and, on returning to by the most concealed and devious tracks, Huntingdon, before he was quite of or pounce upon it, like the eagle, by a age, his conduct became correct, and single flight and stoop: he could charm éven moral. In August, 1620, he When, in 1639, the King made an and wile impediments from his path, or shiver them to fragments at a blow: married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir arbitrary and ill-judged attack on the he could enter with an equal zest into the James Bourchier, of Fitsted, Essex; Earl of Bedford respecting the drainEarl of Bedford respecting the drain- occupations of preaching, fighting, and and during no less than sixteen years and acted with such eminent ability and prayer-meeting, the camp, and the palace; age of the fens, Cromwell both spoke reigning; was equally at home in the following, he resided either at his native town, or at St. Ives; when his do- effect, in favour of that nobleman, that and, as hitherto he had brewed and farmmestic and moral character was irre- from this era we may date the rise of ed, with all a tradesman's tact for the art proachable, and his religious duties his political consequence. The spirit- of business and acquiring wealth, he now carried to an excess. There is strong ed opposition which he made to the bestrode his war-horse with a grace enreason to believe, that during this pe- how the King might, with a colourable made royalty seem a portion of his nature. tirely chivalric, and vaulted from the sadcommissioners appointed to ascertain dle but to sit the throne with an ease that ing on the business of a brewer. In pretext, deprive the earl of the lands he Meanwhile, in every change of time and the third Parliament of Charles I., had drained by a grant from the crown, circumstance, religion, be it once again which met, March 17, 1627, Cromwell aroused the universal spirit of the coun- peculiarly observed, far from contracting, was chosen to represent the borough of try in behalf of the undertakers, and enlarged her hold upon his feelings; but, Huntingdon. This parliament was Cromwell received the appellation of gradually deserting his judgment, while the school of his politics, if not the Lord of the Fens.' Hampden, who her sphere of influence was lamentably hot-bed of his ambition; here he stuwas his kinsman, from that day pro- abridged in fact, the success that attended died the tempers and characters of nounced him one that would sit well all his undertakings taught his enthusiasm so greatly to extend it in idea, that, finally, at the mark;' and his popularity na-his every action appeared to him directmany of those with whom he was afterwards to effect such surprising changes turally increased with the commenda-ed by a heavenly guidance, and his very in all things, as yet apparently stand-tions of a well-known leader, and his crimes the offspring of a decreed necessity, ing on solid bases around him. He already powerful party. Among the or instruments to execute upon earth spoke with strong sense and manliness most early advocates of Hampden in God's righteous vengeance! By consion the various topies that came before the affair of the ship-money, was Crom-derations similar to these only, it is prethe house. In the year 1635, Cromwell, with whom the calm of privacy well, who had been disgusted with the conduct of Charles to the Parliament, was residing at St. Ives, in the capacity of a farmer, and actively engaged in the parochial affairs of the place. His religious conduct was so exemplary, that he is said to have returned several sums of money which he had formerly won by gambling to the losers. It was about this time that he began to entertain a serious design of disposing of his property in England, and of exchanging his native soil for that of

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was now for ever passed, and succeeded
the bustle of military adventure:-
by the turmoil of political intrigue, or

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sumed, shall we be able to pursue and to appreciate the future life of Cromwell.'

In the Parliament of 1640, Cromwell was returned one of the members for 'Henceforth,' says our author, was he the town of Cambridge; and in the sequalities so various and so opposed, that was a second time returned for the a compound of such virtues and vices, of cond Parliament of the same year, he a mind and powers exactly similar to his same place. This was the famous own, were alone, perhaps, capable of li- Long Parliament. The house was diterally developing his career. Religious, vided and sub-divided into more than to the last, in his private and domestic forty committees, for the consideration conduct, he accustomed himself to the of petitions, grievances, &c. Crompractice of a greater or less degree of dis- well was on one of these; and Sir Philip simulation throughout his public life. Warwick, a royalist contemporary, he had espoused, he yet calculated con- gives the following curious.description Enthusiastic to a high degree in the cause sequences one by one, as they occurred, of his person at that time→ The plantation called New England, with almost unfailing exactness. So sim- "The first time (writes Sir Philip) I in North America, was held by the settlers ple were his language and manners, that ever took notice of him, was in the bethere by patent from the king. Numbers he appeared incapable of disguising a ginning of the Parliament held in Novemof the people, consequently, both minis- purpose that had arisen in his mind; yet ber, 1840, when I vainly thought myself ters and others, who now sold their estates by penetration and address the most exqui- a courtly young gentleman; (for we and set sail for this distant province, na- site, did he at the same time so read the courtiers valued ourselves much upon our turally hoped, by such an expedient, not hearts, and so accommodate himself to good clothes.) I came into the house one to be thought wanting in loyal affection the humours, of all with whom he asso-morning, well clad, and perceived a gento their prince and country, while they ciated, as at once to make them his firm tleman speaking, whom I knew not, very preserved unimpaired their religious li-friends, and footstools to his future eleva-ordinarily apparelled; for it was a plain

North America :

berty. But the court, becoming jealous of the departure of so many subjects, at length issued a proclamation, forbidding

tion over them. His existence became a
perpetual harlequinade; his expressions
shifting from the spiritual to the coarsely

cloth suit, which seemed to have been made by an ill country tailor; his linen was plain, and not very clean; and I re

member a speck or two of blood upon his little band, which was not much larger than his collar: his hat was without a hatband. His stature was of a good size; his sword stuck close to his side; his countenance swoln and reddish; his voice sharp and untuneable; and his eloquence full of fervour-for the subject matter would not bear much of reason, it being in behalf of a servant of Mr. Prynne's, who had disperst libels against the Queen for her dancing, and such like innocent and courtly sports; and he aggravated the im prisonment of this man by the counciltable unto that height, that one would have believed the very government itself had been in great danger by it. I sincerely profess it lessened much my reverence unto that great council, for he was very much hearkened unto. And yet I lived to see this very gentleman, whom, out of no ill-will to him I thus describe, by multiplied good successes, and by real, but usurpt power, (having had a better tay lor, and more converse among good company,) in my own eye, when for six weeks together I was a prisoner in his sergeant's hands, and daily waited at Whitehall, appear of a great and majestick deportment and comely presence.'

window which overlooked the water, to

might of his spirit, with all his train of trial, in such a manner as to be able both
disciples; every one of whom is a David, to see and hear what passed, news came
a man of war, and a prophet; gifted that the King was landed at Sir Robert
men all, that resolve to their work bet- Cotton's stairs; when Cromwell ran to a
ter than any of the sons of Levi.' observe him as he came up the garden,
There is not, perhaps, a more decisive and "returned as white as the wall!"—
evidence of Cromwell's genius, than exclaiming to the board-" My masters,
that he enlisted the religious enthusi- he is come! he is come! and now are we
asin of the times on the Parliament's doing that great work that the nation will
side; and first set the courage and re- be full of. Therefore, I desire you, let us
solution of a high tone of religious resolve here what answer we shall give the
feeling in array against the same mili-King when he comes before us; for the
first question he will ask of us will be,
tary virtues inspired by high birth and by what authority and commissions we do
loyalty. Cromwell having become a try him?" To which, "none answered
colonel and a commander, led the van presently;" but that, "after a little space,
of the forces commanded by the Earl Henry Marten rose up, and said, “ In the
of Manchester, in their attack on the name of the Commons and Parliament
royalists, in October, 1643:-
assembled, and all the good people of
England." What a picture have we of
the state of Cromwell's mind in this sim-
ple circumstance! However others
might be deluded into the crime they
were about to commit, by unfeigned
though erring notions of duty or necessity,
to him the just bearing of the case was
manifest: he knew they could possess no

At the word,

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Truth and Peace," Cromwell's men, himself at their head, advanced, singing psalms; reserving their charge, however, until the enemy's horse had fired. A second salute, and a charge from the King's troops themselves, met their approach to the royal line. By the last volley, Cromwell's horse was killed, and fell with him to the ground; and, ere he was well risen,, being now mixed pèle mèle with the combatants, he was again prostrated by the hand of a rovalist gentleman, thought to have been Sir Ingram Hopton; again rising, however, he seized a sorry horse from one of his troopers, remounted, and contributed his personal share to the victory obtained.'

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authority or commission" to adjudge their sovereign; his late conduct had evinced, that he was sensible of the line

that should be drawn between the lawful

We shall not enter into the various disputes between Charles and his parliament, nor into the discontents which were now so numerous as to render the situation of the monarch very critical :-'Among the signs of those perilous times, (so happily passed,) may be here noticed petitions out of number from vast bodies of the people, assembled throughout the land, stating the resolution of the parties subscribing "to live and die in defence of the privileges of Parliament;" these petitions being from counties, cities, towns, parishes, and various trades, the latter including the porters, who alone it is said amounted to fifteen thousand. The apprentices also petitioned, to the same effect; as did at last even the beggars. Another strong symptom of the attempts at negociation, that were made upon the assembly, that none could "an

revolutionary spirit abroad, was, that the women were generally seized with the mania of politics; and discovered, in a multitude of instances, minds yet more agitated than those of the men; and these also, to the number of many thousands, proceeded with their petition to Westininster."

deposition (in very extraordinary circum stances) of a King, and his secret or formal murder;-and every feeling that could be prompted by native humanity, or the deepest sense of religion, aroused The battle of Marston Moor was by a glimpse of the unhappy monarch, gained almost entirely by the extraor- whom, in spite of his convictions, he had dinary courage and conduct of Crom-resolved on devoting to destruction; he well, who, when the battle seemed lost, rallied his troops and gained an important victory. In the decisive battle of Naseby, Cromwell, who was then Lieutenant-General, again displayed his military talents to great advantage, gaining a complete victory over the royalists. In all the negociations or

exclamation, "My masters, he is come! "returned as white as the wall;" and his he is come!"-joined with the pertinent question to the board that followed it-may be supposed to have escaped him with a degree of pathos, an affecting solemnity, which, together with his very unusual hurry of manners and paleness of countenance, had so staggering an effect

for the moment, from the awful business swer presently," but all shrunk, appalled they had taken in hand.'

(To be concluded in our next.)

Recollections of a Classical Tour through various Parts of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. By P. E. Laurent. (Concluded from p. 325.)

after the person of the king had been seized, Cromwell showed himself as wary a politician as he was a skilful general; and his aims at ascendancy were evident throughout his whole conduct; although he appears to have afterwards given his consent to the king's Previously to the actual breaking trial with reluctance. When the king out of the civil war, Cromwell, who had was brought to his capital for this pur-In an account of the Acropolis, Mr. resolved to stand or fall with the Par-pose, he was escorted to Sir Robert Laurent contrasts Pausanias's descripliament, had proved himself an active Cotton's residence by the river side:- tion with the modern state of this once partizan, by distributing arms in the, On this occasion, a characteristic in- splendid citadel, and while he deplores town of Cambridge,—raising a troop of cident is related by Sir Purbeck Temple, with true classic feeling, the cannonadhorse out of that county and Hants, who was one of the judges named by the ing of the Venetian artillery, and the by seizing the magazine in Cambridge Commons, but who refused to act. His dilapidations of Turkish masons, he Castle, and by stopping a quantity of narration, given in evidence on the trial of Henry Marten, the regicide, after the severely censures the purloinings of plate that was ou its way from that unirestoration, is to the effect that, having classic virtuosi,' who have joined in the versity to the King, at York. A concealed himself behind the hangings of spoliations of the magnificent temples quaint writer of that day says, As for the room in which the commissioners on this celebrated rock. Lord Elgin's Noll Cromwell, he is gone forth in the were met to determine on the mode of purchasing the basso-relievos of the

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seon:

'Quod non fecerunt Goti hoc fecerunt Scoti.' Mr. Laurent, after noticing the general complaints on the subject,

Pantheon, has been severely censured shave their heads, leaving only a small | Paul, (Spelia tou agiou Paulou ;) we both by the French and by many persons tuft on the crown, and none but the followed him by a craggy path to the ral cave is seen, where the saint is said to in this country; and a satirical line was priests wear beards. The dress of the foot of the walls of the citadel. A natucut upon the walls of the Pandro-lower class consists of a coarse linen have dwelt during part of his stay at Coshirt, a pair of blue loose cotton draw-rinth. A seat in the stone is pointed out ers, a woollen jacket, a small red scull- also, as having served him for a bed; and a small rock, perhaps once covered with cap, and a narrow blue turban of coarse cotton. The middle class dress nearly earth, is said to have furnished him with in the same manner, but with the addi- his humble fare. On this spot a small tion of cotton stockings, and French or chapel has been erected; it is greatly venerated by the Greeks of Corinth, who, Italian shoes. once a year, make a procession hither from the town, with as much pomp as the extreme poverty of the church will allow.

says,

Before I quitted Athens, I, however, saw enough to convince me that it is proper that the magnificent works of the Greek sculptors should be placed under the safe-guard of a nation fond of art, rather than be left exposed to the senseless fury of the Turks, the depredations of private collectors, and the insults of ignorant travellers. Hardly do any persons quit the Acropolis, without clipping from its monuments some relic to carry back to their country: this rage for destroying has been carried so far, that the elegant lonic capitals, which I before mentioned. have nearly disappeared, and not one of the Caryatides now stands entire. The last time I visited the citadel, when taking a farewell view of the Pandroseon and the Hall of Erectheus, I was much displeased at seeing an English traveller, an officer of the navy, (for such his uniform bespoke him to be,) standing upon the base of one of the Caryatides, clinging with his left arm round the column, while his right -hand, provided with a hard and heavy pebble, was endeavouring to knock off the only remaining nose of those six beautifully sculptured statues. L'exerted my eloquence in vain to preserve this

monument of art.'

The mutilated remains, however, convince the spectator that the buildings were not unworthy the praises lavished upon them by the writers of antiquity. Although the roof of the Parthenon has been destroyed by a Venetian bomb, and has been deprived of its finest ornaments of sculpture, so that nought but a few columns are left standing, yet, says Mr. Laurent, never, so long as memory remains, shall I forget the effect produced on my mind when first those pillars presented them selves to my sight: my ideas were all absorbed in a mingled feeling of wonder, of awe, of regret. Let him who denies the sublimity of Grecian archi tecture, travel to Athens, view the ruins of the Parthenon, and be silent.'

The Greeks of Athens possess none of those majestic features which characterized the sculputres of the ancients; jet black and glossy hair, sharp diminutive eyes, shaded by thick brows,

Reckoning of Time.-"" What o'clock it?" was usually the first question I had to answer any Greek traveller whom I met on the road; this proceeds, perhaps, rather from their mode of calculating by time distance between places, than from mere curiosity; nothing, however, pleases a Romaic peasant so much, as a sight of the machinery of a watch; when very small, he gazes at it with wonder. Most of the richer individuals among the Turks, carry in their girdle a large watch, generally of London manufacture, inclosed in a tortoise-shell case, and fastened round their necks with a silver chain; this they traveller, and a smile of content never shew with no small pride to the Frank fails to cross their frigid countenances when they hear pronounced the word

A public school and library is estab-
lished at Athens, which is supported
by the subscriptions of those who visit
the town; and the name of her present is
Majesty graces the list of members.
The plain and village of Marathon, the
Tumuli, the Sacred Way, and every
thing worthy of notice in the vicinity of
Athens, have been so often and so mi-
nutely described by preceding tourists,
that we pass over our author's account
of them. On the 21st September,
Mr. Laurent quitted Athens, and em-
barked for Epidaurus, a port of the
Morea, nearly opposite to Athens. He
reached Lygurio at the time of the
vintage, and learnt the method used
there of making wine. To extract the
juice from the grapes, a hut has been
erected, having its floor made of plas-
ter, and declining gradually towards a
spout, which led to a reservoir; the
grapes were thrown in by a hole in the
roof, and a peasant trod them with his
naked feet.' This wine would be toler-
ably good, were it not soiled by a
mixture of plaster or lime, and of the
turpentine extracted from the apple of
From the remaining
the pine-tree.
part of Mr. Laurent's Tour, we shall
now select a few more passages:-

-

Antiquaries. The eager desire of
tourists to obtain some relics of antiquity
is so well known in Argos, that, when
walking the streets, you are repeatedly
stopped by the natives to examine the ar-
ticles they have found in the vicinity. A
kaloieros, or monk, drew from his breast,
with great care, what he conceived to be
a precious antique; it was a Roman cru-
cifix, broken from its cross. This recalls
to my memory a similar scene, which I
witnessed at Athens. A young man
shewed me a French half-penny, of Louis
the Fitteenth, imagining it to be a valua-
ble medal; one of my companions in-
quired, with pretended eagerness, the
price he asked for the coin; the youth
significantly raised the fingers of his right
hand, and pronounced the words,
xgóca," (five piasters.)'

"" πέντε

"London," written on the dial; so attached are they to goods of English manufacture. The Turks reckon their hours from six in the morning to six in the evening, so that mid-day falls with them at six o'clock. This mode of reckoning time is, perhaps, in part derived from the Italians, who reckon, at least in the southern parts of Italy,) from sun-set to sun-set, twentyfour hours; by this means they have the extreme disadvantage of starting from a ence to their almanack that they can set variable point; and it is only by a refertheir watch so as to give them twenty-four o'clock at sun-set. Our mode of keeping time is known in Naples by the name of "ora di Francia," or " di Spagna.”

In visiting Tripolitzà, Mr. Laurent was disgusted with the conduct of some of his countrymen who had preceded him, and which he justly censures. A part of the fortress now serves as a cofall sides covered with the names of fee-house, and the white walls are on Greeks and Turks, and of some Frank travellers; an English hand has traced, in different parts of the room, some of the words which disgrace the walls of London; to perpetuate their indelicacy by obscene inscriptions on the walls, is a

custom which both Turks and Greeks St. Paul. As St. Paul remained at Co- have to learn from more civilized nameeting in the middle of a high fore-rinth some time, you may readily con- tions:head; hooked nose; thick lips; dirty clude that a relic of this holy man must The ruins of Sparta are now, stunted teeth; narrow chin; a skin still be shewn. While we were examin-like niany others in Greece, distinguished tawny and coarse;-such is the general ing the Pirenian chambers, a young Greek only by the general denomination of portrait of a modern Athenian. All lad offered to conduct us to the grotto of " Palaio Chorio;" they are situated on

7

Sparta.

the western side of the Eurotas, and are very extensive. We easily distinguished the theatre, which must have been a most magnificent edifice: we saw also the broad hill on which stood the citadel. We were shewn likewise a bridge of one arch, made of large uncemented stones; it crosses the Tiasus, and, to judge from its shape, must be very ancient; it is situated near a small Greek chapel, sacred to "Agios Giorgios." Some square ruins of walls, constructed from very massy stones, are also seen in different parts.

I regretted much not having a better guide; the person who conducted us, a Bardouniote, seemed completely ignorant of the place; our questions were answered in barbarous accents, which, by their roughness at least, called to the memory the language of the Dorians. The common answer to every question is, ixevra go, know I? (upw (Y)

tered.

cure a guard of some Albanian soldiers,
or a Turkish janissary.

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walls are of Cyclopean masonry, and very extensive; no edifices can be clearly traced, although heaps of ruins are seen on all sides. We were shewn an ancient mill, dug up on this spot; it was hewn in the infancy of mechanic art; a hemispherical stone, revolving within a corresponding vase of granite, reduced the corn to powder. On the opposite shore of Albania is seen a castle, containing a garrison of soldiers belonging to Ali Pasha.

Although generally plunged in the
deepest ignorance, it is not to be inferred
that all the monks who inhabit these sa-
cred buildings are entirely without the
advantages of literature. The acquire
ments of many are such as surprise those
who consider the difficulty of obtaining
knowledge in this secluded land; those
acquirements are, however, confined to a
smattering of their own theology, a slight
'Near the ruins of Leuecas, a gibbet
acquaintance with the ancient Greek or has been erected, from which, inclosed
Hellenic, and a knowledge of the lives of in a cage of iron, hangs the corse of an in-
their saints. Books are rarely met with inhabitant of this island; he murdered his
father, his mother his brothers, and his
sisters, and then fled from his country:
but the long arm of justice seized the pa-
ricide'; he was taken in the Morea,
brought to Santa Maura, and executed.
His example struck with indescribable
terror the lonians, few of whom dare ap-
proach the spot where the body is ex-
posed. The execution of this individual
took place at the time General Campbell
commanded in these islands. The neces
sary, although severe justice of this gen-
tleman, produced a most salutary effect;
the islanders then learnt, for the first time,
that pardon was not, as before, to be ob-
tained by money.

the interior of the Morea, and it is not im-
probable that it is one of the causes of the
barbarism which pervades this part of
Greece. As in Italian, so in modern |
Greek, every syllable is pronounced, and
each letter bears constantly the same
sound; children consequently learn to
read Ronaic and Italian with a rapidity
much greater than one accustomed only
to the slow progress made in the English
schools, would easily be brought to be-
lieve. I am, therefore, convinced, that
the distribution of improving and enter-
taining books would be speedily followed
in these provinces by an extension of
knowledge-the only incentive which will
ever rouse the Greeks from their present
degrading torpidity.'

We crossed several fine groves of olive. The green turf under the trees produces abundance of mushrooms. The peasants were gathering the fruit; some, standing on the branches, were beating down the olives, striking, according to Pliny's advice, always in one direction, and with a gentle force; others were picking them up, and transporting them in hampers to the town.'

The peasantry near the Eurotas are evidently much less civilized than those of the northern parts of the Morea; they greet, however, the travellers, whom curiosity leads to cross their lands, with a welcome which we were told proceeded not from the lips only; the hand is placed on the heart, and the words kale erchelai, affendi mou,-"welcome sir," are pronounced with the smile of hospitality. Some were harvesting the rice in the Santa Maura.The canal which semarshes, near the banks of the Eurotas; parates Santa Maura from Albania, is not while, on the citadel of ancient Sparta, above half a mile broad; it is frequently others were beating out the maize: for crossed in canoes, or monoxyla, and, at this purpose, twelve horses were fastened certain seasons of the year, the inhabitants abreast, and driven circularly round a find no difficulty in wading from shore to post, about which the ears had been scat-shore; in milder weather, the wind blows up this canal in an easterly direction, Monasteries. A Greek monastery is from sun-rise till past noon; it then shifts, Patriotism. Negociations were carinhabited by two descriptions of monks and generally blows from the west. The rying on, during our stay at Corfu, bethe kaloieros and the papa. No one is modern town is built in the most un-tween the lord high cominissioner of the admitted into either of those classes, with-healthy part of the island, and close to se- Jonian states, and an ambassador from out the consent of the whole fraternity; veral salt-pits; these are formed on the loanina. An anecdote was mentioned to no member of the society can marry with coast, and separated from the sea by us which I cannot refrain from repeating, out forfeiting his character of monk. The sluices, which admit the water into a shal- as it affords an example of honest patriotkaloieros or kalogeros, (for the word is of low preserve, the heat of the sun sufficing ism and noble disinterestedness, which disputed orthography, some affirming that to effect crystalization. The fort is placed would have honoured a Phocion or a Fait is derived from xaos and lapos; others, between the town and the opposite shore bius. The ambassador, it seems, had rethat it is deduced from xaños and vépws,) is of Albania, at the extremity of a peninsu-ceived orders from his sovereign to basten of the inferior order; his duty is to clean la, joined to the land by a narrow and se- the negociation by making some presents the chapel of the building, to tend its mi-circular isthmus, three miles long, and to the secretary of the high commissioner: flocks and herds, and to wait on the papas is surrounded with shoals, abounding in in one of their conferences the Mussulor fathers. The little community is go- fish of different kinds. A shorter commuman made known his intentions; the scverned by a person, the nomination of nication is obtained by the remains of a cretary led him to a window of the pawhom depends upon some rich neigh-narrow Turkish aqueduct, which crosses lace, and, pointing to the highest mounbouring Greek, or the bishop; he is calltain of the island, told him," Were that ed the egoumenos: he must always be in mountain a mass of gold, and your master priest's orders, and his duty is to assemto offer it to us, he would not obtain Parble and take the opinion of the papas in all ga one moment ere the dictates of justice cases of mutual interest-as the nominahad been fulfilled."' tion of a new member, the exaction of the pasha, or the purchase of new lands. Each monastery pays a certain tribute, according to its revenue: that of Vourkano pays yearly eighteen hundred piasters; but this does not always suffice to preserve them from the sacrilegious depredations of the Moslems. When the monastery is in the vicinity of a Turkish settement, the fathers, if rich enough, pro

the shallows: it consists of above three
hundred arches, and, in windy weather,
the passage is by no means safe, as the pe-
destrian runs the risk of being blown into
the sea. The garrison consisted of about
three hundred men, commanded by Cap-
tain Ross, a gentleman whose hospitality
is unbounded.

'A beautiful road, shaded by olive-
trees, leads from the modern town to the
ancient Leucas.

About three miles distant, the ruins are seen on an eminence, covered with vineyards, at the foot of which is a copious fountain, adorned with a pompous Veneto Latin inscription; the

There is an Appendix to this work, which does not add much to its value. It contains a copy, in Italian, of the treaty of Paris, by which the loniau Islands were ceded to Great Britain; and a copy of the constitution of those islands.

Although it will be seen from the extent of Mr. Laurent's tour, and the li

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