FERRARA-TOMB OF ARIOSTO.

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which, in a moment, exhibits a magnificent display of fire-works. At twelve o'clock precisely, the dove goes off, and then all the bells begin to ring, and the clocks to strike, which during the week had been silenced.

Monday, April 8. Once more we bade adieu to Florence, and were soon among the Apennines. We travelled eighteen miles of uninteresting country to Le Maschere, where we stopped at an inn, which has at least the recommendation of being kept by people who are exceedingly attentive and civil. Tuesday morning, at six o'clock, we resumed our journey, through a wild desolate country, rendered more gloomy by the dark clouds and heavy rain. But from Pozzeoli to Bologna, we have had a delightful drive. This town contains many interesting objects; its noble cathedral, and its gallery, of which every one has heard as containing some magnificent paintings.

Wednesday. We journeyed to-day through a flat, but well cultivated country, to Ferrara. Some of the party went to view the tomb of Ariosto; his portrait, chair, manuscripts, and ink-stand were also shewn. When the body of Ariosto was discovered, the picture, which is considered a remarkably good likeness, was found lying upon it. We passed the Reno, a branch of the Po, in a curious manner, (at least, to me it appeared so,) on planks laid across two boats, fastened by strong cables, which were pulled by men who stood on the oppo

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BANKS OF THE PO.

site bank, until the bridge, with its cargo, was brought to the margin.

April 11. The weather is still wet and gloomy. We left Ferrara at five o'clock in the morning, and soon arrived on the banks of the Po, the passage of which, the poor horses, at least, found unpleasant. They could scarcely keep their footing, both in the ascent and descent. I could not bear to look at them making every possible effort to succeed, and with the most patient resignation bearing the unmerited blows which were inflicted upon them. The bridge of boats was large enough to admit of both carriages, and all the horses, being brought over at the same time; and at one end of the boats are small houses, in which women were sitting.

We drove for some time along the banks of the Po, on which are a number of corn-mills, constructed within boats. They have a very pretty and singular effect, the walls being white and painted with gay colours; the roofs half arched. The country is well cultivated, but too flat to be interesting. Our Vetturino told us that the people were sad canaille, being very imposing. This man has agreed to provide every thing for us, so that we have no bills to pay on the road; which, for strangers travelling through these countries, is much the best plan, to avoid imposition. Canaille seems to be a favourite term with our Vetturino ; he applied it to the priests of Pisa, in speaking of

THE ADIGE-THE BRENTA.

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them a few days ago. "They are," said he, "the worst canaille in Italy; I never confess to any of them, for I believe them to be as wicked sinners as myself. I say my prayers night and morning to our Lord and his blessed mother; and I fulfil all my duties as well as I can."

During our journey this evening to Monselesi, I remarked very pretty white farm houses, of a description quite different from any which I had seen in other parts of Italy.

We crossed the Adige on a bridge of boats, and for several miles kept close to its banks, which are edged with wooden mills in boats. They were all at work grinding corn, but are differently formed, and not nearly so pretty as those on the Po.

This part of Italy is so different from what we have been accustomed to see in the south, that we might suppose we were among an entirely different nation; houses, people, customs, and even the language are not the same.

Dolo. We passed some magnificent castles and villas, with domains and gardens cultivated in the English style. For miles we journeyed along the beautiful shores of the Brenta, and watched the gondolas plying towards Venice. At some miles distance from the town, when our Vetturini caught the first glimpse of Venice resting on the bosom of the wide Adriatic, they uttered a loud extatic cry, at the same time whipping on their horses, as if they thought that it would float away to a distance

which they could not otherwise reach. It is impossible to describe to you, my dear friend, the sensation which the first sight of Venice creates; hear what you will of it, the surprise is not lessened.

LETTER XLVII.

Venice, Friday, April 12, 1822.

AT Mestre we embarked in a gondola for Venice; we passed two stations, guarded by Austrians, at each of which we had to pay toll, and also to a party of them in a boat, which pursued us for the purpose of levying a further tax. Our passports were neither demanded nor examined by any of these, though such a measure might have been some pretext for these impositions. That business was reserved for a fourth party, who made us pay the usual fees. Venice is built upon twenty-eight sand-banks or small islands, in which stakes are driven of larch, a wood which is not injured by sea-water, and has been found a durable foundation for some of the most beautiful edifices in the world.

Saturday, April 13. Our first visit this morning

ST. MARK'S PLACE.

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was to the Piazza di St. Marco, one of the most splendid squares which the world ever produced, one side is occupied by the noble cathedral of the ame name. St. Mark is the patron saint of Venice.

To give you an idea of this part of Venice would require powers of description superior to mine. I must therefore only mention a few of the most striking objects, and leave the rest to your imagination. The beautiful bronze horses which once adorned the Temple of the Sun at Corinth, were brought from thence to Constantinople, and thence to Venice, were taken to Paris in the war of the Revolution, and in 1815 delivered again to Venice by the allies; the Golden Lion of Venice; the beautiful Grecian pillars; the Campanile, which we ascended, and from whence we had a most advantageous view of the whole city, which literally appeared to float on the surface of the water; the shops, forming a colonnade in front, gaily decorated with jewellery, bead ornaments, and other toys, the only kind of materials with which they are supplied, and the Doge's splendid palace; all are to be seen in this square. Before the church stand three red stakes placed there to commemorate three provinces, the Morea, Cyprus, and Candia, which once belonged to Venice.

In the inside of the Church, near the door, the spot is marked where a Pope put his foot on an Emperor's neck!

Among many objects of admiration and curio