The Road from Damascus: A Journey Through SyriaIn February 2001 Scott C. Davis flew to Damascus, attended raucous political salons, talked all night, and sat in local cafes debating the nature of the evolving Syrian nation. Such openness was new in Syria. Was it a sign of things to come? Would the Damascene Curtain fall as heavily and permanently as did the Berlin Wall? Would Damascus become another tourist trap bursting with American franchise restaurants, another Amman? To answer these questions, and to give a feel for the real country beneath the rapidly changing surfaces, Davis tells a story of an earlier time when Syrians did not discuss politics for fear of the 'mukhabarat' and when some hesitated, in their own homes, even to mention the name of the Syrian president. Fourteen years earlier, in October 1987, Davis had come to Damascus and begun a slow, difficult journey through Syrian society. He met artists and intellectuals, wealthy landowners, retired mystics, and also slept on the floor beside humble peasants and working folk. The times were quiet, jobs scarce, and ordinary folk could take a few moments for tea with a guest. Many of those Davis met took pride in their own simplicity. Denied political power and wealth, |
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Abu Taleb Aewa Ahmed al-Asad al-Jazira Alawites Aleppo American ancient Arabic Aramaic Armenian asked Baath party Bedouin Beirut castle Cham Palace Christian church courtyard Crak des Chevaliers Crusaders culture desert Dier ez-Zoir Euphrates Fateh Moudarres Fatima Greek Hafez al-Asad hand Hasakah Hasan the architect Hezbollah Iranian Iraq Islamic Ismailis Jabir Jade Jamal killed Kurdish Kurds land Latakia later lived looked Mamluks Mamoun Sakkal Marjurjos Masyaf mountain moved Muhammad mukhabarat Muslims night numbers Nuri Ottomans passport Patriarch of Antioch pulled Qamishly Qardaha Qasem returned river Road from Damascus Roman Bridge Saad Shalabi Saad's farm Saleh Saydnaya Seattle secret police seemed Shiite smiled stone story street Sunnis Syria Syriac Christians talked taxi temple of Zeinab things thought told took tourist town Turks turned village Walid walked wanted woman women young Youssef Zouhair