tempt; "I tell you, I have seen stones in Norway which Orm had lifted, and I could toss every one of them."

Then, who was Iceland's greatest hero?"

"Egill Skallagrímson! He was unsurpassed."

"Tell me next, Grettir! whether the story of your wrestle with Glámr is true?"

"That was a bad business," answered Grettir, shaking his head. "Ask me no more on that subject."

"And about your descent of Gothafoss, after a tussle with a Troll woman?"

"It is true that I strove with something there, but what that thing was I cannot tell, as the struggle took place at night. I did swim beneath the falls."

"Is the Saga about you quite true?" asked the bonder. "It is touched up," answered the strong man; "but it is for the most part quite trustworthy."

To his dying day the farmer protested that this interview really took place.

278

CHAPTER XVI.

FROM SKAGAFJORD TO MITHFJORD.

Svatha-stathr-Heathen Charity-Church of Vithimyri-An odd Cow-Borg, an old Castle Queen Victoria's Cousin-Icelandic Duck-The longtailed Duck-Red-necked Phalaropes-Deep Bogs-Melr-A happy Meeting A Wedding - Female Dress-Music-National AnthemMichaelmas Hymn-Mr. Briggs in Love-Church Service-Sacred Music Ecclesiastical Position of the Icelandic Establishment.

AFTER having turned our backs on the Skagafjord, our course lay up a broad valley, through which flows the Herathsvatn. This river breaks into a multiplicity of streams, divided by flat low holms and insulated ranges of low hill.

This district of islands is called Hegranes, and is the place. where the provincial Thing, or Council, was held in olden times.

The view over it from Svatha-stathr was very beautiful, the whole extent of islet and stream being bathed in sunlight. Countless flocks of wildfowl sailed, sun-kindled, through the clear air, filling it with their piercing cries.

Svatha-stathr receives its name from a certain Svathi, who lived in the tenth century.

It happened during that period that Iceland was suffering severely from a bad year, so that there was a large amount of destitution over the country; and unless something were done by the wealthy bonders to relieve it, there was a certainty of many poor householders perishing during the approaching winter.

Svathi, heathen though he was, stepped forward and liberally undertook to provide for a considerable number of suf

A

ferers. Accordingly, the poor starving wretches assembled at his door, and were ordered by him to dig a large pit in his tún. They complied with alacrity, and in the evening they were gathered into a barn, the door was locked upon them, and it was explained to them that on the following morning they were to be buried in the pit of their own digging.

"You will see at once," represented Svathi, "that if twenty or thirty of you be put out of your misery, the number of mouths wanting food will be reduced, and there will be more victuals for those who remain."

There certainly was something in what Svathi said; but, unfortunately, the poor wretches did not see it in the same light as he, nor appreciate the force of his argument; and they spent the night howling with despair.

Thorwaldr of Asi, a Christian, who happened to be riding by towards dawn, heard the outcries, and went to the barn to inquire what they signified. When he learned the cause of the distress, he liberated the captives, and bade them follow him to Asi. Before long, Svathi became aware that his birds had flown, and set off in pursuit. However, he was unable to recover them, as Thorwaldr's men were armed. Thus the golden opportunity was lost, and he was obliged to return home, bewailing the failure of his benevolent scheme. As he dashed up to his house, blinded with rage, and regardless of what was before him, the horse fell with him into the pit which his protégés had dug, and he was killed by the fall. He was buried in it next day, along with his horse and hound.*

From Svatha-stathr we obtained a guide to show us across. the river; and here I parted with the faithful Jón, paying him twelve dollars for the time he had been with me.

We were a long while traversing the streams of the Herathsvatn, which seemed innumerable. The view from the grassy flats was particularly striking. To the south rose the magnificent Mælafellshnukr, or the Measuring mountain, with a belt of cloud along its base. To the right lay a moun

• Younger Olaf S. Tryg., chap. 225.